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willyweed
totally correct, so when did taking plants indoors ,growing under artificial sun lights,in restricted pot sizes,using fertilizer,and tap water become nature?
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Flowering.... trimming fan leaves off....leaving fan leaves on
- Thread starter vapedg13
- Start date
first of MJ was a out door plant you can grow pretty much anything indoor these days
indoor grow lights have come a long way to replicate the sun with great results for instance i can easily tell the difference from a out door bud compared to indoor.
Direct sunlight has a luminous efficacy of about 93 lumens per watt of radiant flux. Bright sunlight provides illuminance of approximately 100,000 lux or lumens per square meter at the Earth's surface. The total amount of energy received at ground level from the sun at the zenith is 1004 watts per square meter, which is composed of 527 watts of infrared radiation, 445 watts of visible light, and 32 watts of ultraviolet radiation. At the top of the atmosphere sunlight is about 30% more intense, with more than three times the fraction of ultraviolet (UV)
and for your answer YES a 1000 watt can duplicate the sun
EYE Hortilux Super HPS grow lamps fine-tune your lighting system to provide optimum spectral energy levels that promote vigorous plant growth. The EYE Super HPS EN Grow Lamps provide 17% more total energy and 25% more energy in the violet, blue, and green spectrum than standard High Pressure Sodium lamps.
Lamp Code: LU1000B/HTL/EN
Initial Lumens: 145000
Rated Life Hours: 24000
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willyweed
so your sunlight bulb replicates ,cool morning sunlight slowing moving to midday heat and then cooling sun into the evening.or does it just blast the shit out of the plant for 12 hours?(and for your answer YES a 1000 watt can duplicate the sun ) you have answered a question that had not been asked !
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willyweed
Plants will grow better under sunlight; artificial light lacks the complete spectrum of light provided by the sun. You can purchase "grow lights" which have a special coating on the bulb to produce more light in the spectrum that plants need to photosynthesize. However, they can never completely duplicate natural sunlight. just get this of wiki if it helps you understand that you may not be correct!
-~Wind Walker~-
Active member
Full spectrum lighting is optically balanced artificial lighting that duplicates the clarity and color intensity of noon time sunlight. It is a clear, bright white light that has a 90-100 CRI (Color Rendering Index) and 5000-5500 Degrees Kelvin (Kelvin Temperature). Full spectrum lighting, like its name suggests, includes the entire gamut of light rays from UV (ultraviolet) to VIBGYOR (Violet, Indigo, Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange and Red) to IR (infrared). Full Spectrum Earth Phosphors are used to manufacture full spectrum light bulbs.
Full spectrum light is like the sun. It consists of many colors which combines to make a beautiful white light. To be truly full spectrum, the manufacturer must create a light that looks like daylight white (the Kelvin temperature) and also contain all the color wavelengths of natural daylight (the Color Rendering Index). It’s easy to make a light with the appropriate Kelvin. The challenge comes in matching the daylight colors at noon when we are most biologically active and alert.as well as plants We are proud to announce that our Indoor Sunshine light rates 95 CRI, or 95% of the sun’s noontime rating.
Definitions
CRI — Color Rendering Index or how the colors appear under man-made light in comparison to natural daylight. The sun is 100 CRI. The best man-made light is in the 90s.
K — Kelvin Color Temperature Scale or chromaticity
The Kelvin color temperature is a term used to describe the “whiteness” of incandescent lamp light. In incandescent or screw-in bulbs, the color temperature describes the actual physical temperature of the wire or filament inside the bulb. For fluorescent tubes with no hot filament, the term “Kelvin” indicates that the light appears as if the lamp is operating at a specific color temperature. It is not hot to the touch. The term “chromaticity” is beginning to be used in place of color temperature.
Typical CRI and Kelvin ratings are:
49 CRI 2800 K incandescent
56 CRI 3000 K warm white fluorescent
68 CRI 4200 K standard cool white fluorescent
90 CRI 5000 K daylight-simulating fluorescent
95 CRI 5500 K Indoor Sunshine
100 CRI 5500 K outdoor light
Azeo ????
I've always looked at "PAR" as the spectrum or wavelength the light needs ta be in. And "Lumens" as the horsepower ta get them there.
and if you think other wise then hey go look at 400 watt grows then a 1000 watt lets see the yield difference and overall plant growth ????? HEAT= horse power
you mention hps out dated crappy science ???? HPS is probably the most cost efficient, best way to get a grow on , just have a scroll threw many forums and see what most use
if you can get 93 watts per Sq foot and full spectrum my friend you are seriously close to replicating the suns power and i think science isn't to far away from bringing you a light that can do it we are close @ 95 CRI
Full spectrum light is like the sun. It consists of many colors which combines to make a beautiful white light. To be truly full spectrum, the manufacturer must create a light that looks like daylight white (the Kelvin temperature) and also contain all the color wavelengths of natural daylight (the Color Rendering Index). It’s easy to make a light with the appropriate Kelvin. The challenge comes in matching the daylight colors at noon when we are most biologically active and alert.as well as plants We are proud to announce that our Indoor Sunshine light rates 95 CRI, or 95% of the sun’s noontime rating.
Definitions
CRI — Color Rendering Index or how the colors appear under man-made light in comparison to natural daylight. The sun is 100 CRI. The best man-made light is in the 90s.
K — Kelvin Color Temperature Scale or chromaticity
The Kelvin color temperature is a term used to describe the “whiteness” of incandescent lamp light. In incandescent or screw-in bulbs, the color temperature describes the actual physical temperature of the wire or filament inside the bulb. For fluorescent tubes with no hot filament, the term “Kelvin” indicates that the light appears as if the lamp is operating at a specific color temperature. It is not hot to the touch. The term “chromaticity” is beginning to be used in place of color temperature.
Typical CRI and Kelvin ratings are:
49 CRI 2800 K incandescent
56 CRI 3000 K warm white fluorescent
68 CRI 4200 K standard cool white fluorescent
90 CRI 5000 K daylight-simulating fluorescent
95 CRI 5500 K Indoor Sunshine
100 CRI 5500 K outdoor light
Azeo ????
I've always looked at "PAR" as the spectrum or wavelength the light needs ta be in. And "Lumens" as the horsepower ta get them there.
and if you think other wise then hey go look at 400 watt grows then a 1000 watt lets see the yield difference and overall plant growth ????? HEAT= horse power
you mention hps out dated crappy science ???? HPS is probably the most cost efficient, best way to get a grow on , just have a scroll threw many forums and see what most use
if you can get 93 watts per Sq foot and full spectrum my friend you are seriously close to replicating the suns power and i think science isn't to far away from bringing you a light that can do it we are close @ 95 CRI
Not a single word of above is from DrFever. It's all copy/paste. Without crediting source, for all anyone knows, it's sales "spin". **Allow me to clarify, I'm not saying above isn't fully correct information. But I 100% can tell you DrFever didn't write it. There's too much proper punctuation, capitalization, sentence structure and paragraphs to have come from DrFever.
Until you get to the bottom, then it's obvious it's his incoherent dribble.
Until you get to the bottom, then it's obvious it's his incoherent dribble.
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willyweed
please read post 304,and tell me it is wrong? nearly sunlight is not sunlight ,never will be !
This is a very poor example. But that's my fault. I mixed strains in this grow because I had some seeds not crack (Master Kush) and I pulled out some Martian Kush. Two of each strain. Issue is that while breeder says 60/40 indica dom Martian, they also say it stretches like hell and jeebus it did! over 3x stretch totally borking my normal routine, even when I defoliated those two HARD prior to end of stretch to shut them down.
It'll still be a decent grow. I won't get any 10 oz plants that I know. But contrary to DrFever, there aint no airy bud. Defoliation in my experience has NOTHING to do with airy bud. Imho, LIGHT has everything to do with airy bud.
I'll load 8 pics over the next two post to show day 47 (yesterday) in flower. These strains will probably harvest around days 63-68 so 2.5-3 weeks to go still. This is the period they'll pack on weight and they aint airy now.
Apologies the picture quality ain't great. I'm not a good photographer.
First 5 pics are all Master Kush
It'll still be a decent grow. I won't get any 10 oz plants that I know. But contrary to DrFever, there aint no airy bud. Defoliation in my experience has NOTHING to do with airy bud. Imho, LIGHT has everything to do with airy bud.
I'll load 8 pics over the next two post to show day 47 (yesterday) in flower. These strains will probably harvest around days 63-68 so 2.5-3 weeks to go still. This is the period they'll pack on weight and they aint airy now.
Apologies the picture quality ain't great. I'm not a good photographer.
First 5 pics are all Master Kush
Attachments
The next three pics are two of the Martian Kush in the back and one overall view of the tent.
One should notice there are not a lot of FAN leaves. But still plenty of SUGAR leaves to transpire and feed the flowers. Fan leaves get pulled when they had a 1" stem. This is so I don't clip off pcs of flower with my fingernail when plucking.
Due to the size it's a pain in the ass to pluck the mid sections and lower of the Martian Kush in such a small (5'x5') tent. In reality, I could probably yield more going to 3 plants instead of 4, set in triangular layout. *and of course sticking with same strains, and strains I know (mixing Martian Kush in was a huge mistake this grow).
I will probably build a new rdwc 3 plant system to do just this. Staying legal is still important to me so going out of the tent and building a 6 plant or so tunnel that I could get to every plant is out of the question and I haven't convinced myself a 4x8 tent with only 4 plants would be a better idea.
One should notice there are not a lot of FAN leaves. But still plenty of SUGAR leaves to transpire and feed the flowers. Fan leaves get pulled when they had a 1" stem. This is so I don't clip off pcs of flower with my fingernail when plucking.
Due to the size it's a pain in the ass to pluck the mid sections and lower of the Martian Kush in such a small (5'x5') tent. In reality, I could probably yield more going to 3 plants instead of 4, set in triangular layout. *and of course sticking with same strains, and strains I know (mixing Martian Kush in was a huge mistake this grow).
I will probably build a new rdwc 3 plant system to do just this. Staying legal is still important to me so going out of the tent and building a 6 plant or so tunnel that I could get to every plant is out of the question and I haven't convinced myself a 4x8 tent with only 4 plants would be a better idea.
Attachments
-~Wind Walker~-
Active member
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willyweed
very nice pics bassy59 ,just what i expected to see ,i prob pluck em just the way you do,can't see many gaps in between the buds like others have mentioned ! 
Interesting little thing I just realized and learned for ym own grows in the future. I'm chopping down all 4 plants as we speak. As previously mentioned there is some fail and good in this grow. The fail is my mixing two strains. I had to germ 2 seeds of Martian Kush to grow along with my Master Kush when 2 of the Master Kush seeds didnt germinate and I had no more. I know the Master Kush strain well and how it reacts to defoliation.
The Martian kush are insane nutso stretchers. Even when I defoliated them at 14 days of 12/12 to shut them down from getting so much taller than the Master Kush, it just didnt cut it and they stood 8-10" taller. I knew this would hurt. I'll never mix strains in a tent again.
But the real lesson was something I had not thought of. In my 5x5 tent I use a raptor hood and 1k hps. This is a HUGE hood. I mean massive wide which is what I want. So I centered the hood in the tent right? BAD IDEA! Where is the bulb? Look up into the hood and the bulb is a foot over one direction. DOH! What a dipshit I am!
After two grows, the plant in the back left corner (furthest away from bulb) have awesome great growth but not nearly as dense as those under the best amount of light.
We're talking a shit ton less dense, while still very large buds.
*****How does this relate to defoliation?******
This just further illustrates that light is a major factor in bud development and density. While reflectivity helps, it doesn't replace direct light. Nor does stacking hundreds of fan leaves (translucent as they may be) offer greater benefit than direct light. Fan leaves are light blockers after an adjacent node has developed.
One can argue all they want about storage facilities, till their eyes bleed. We are not in nature where nutrients are not nearly as plentiful. We are feeding daily (or 24/7 in my case, w/rdwc) great nutrients. Storage isnt needed.
Others will argue about the leaves transpiring, and feeding sugars etc to the buds. But we are not removing sugar leaves. We're taking all the fan leaves out. I argue there is well enough more leaf than needed making sugars and transpiring all that's needed.
This sounds like theory, but it's based on my observations actually using the technique.
I can't wait to finish chopping. I'll clean up the rdwc system and tent. Then 4 Kosher Kush go back in. But not till AFTER I move the hood to off center and set the light to more center. All the plants will get as much direct light as possible and routinely get defoliated.
It also makes me wonder if I would do better with 2 x 600w hps in the 5x5. With the bulbs facing in opposite directions and a 3rd off overlapping of light in the center, would end up with a much better, denser yield.
Last grow gave me 28 ozs from 4 plants under 34" tall. I suspect this grow will only yield about 18-20 because of the two strains and the discovered light issue. But based on past experience I fully expect to see 26-32 oz from the kosher kush grow.
For this type of technique, and my local state laws, available electrical & cooling, my 4 plant grows ideally need about 1200 watts and fitting that into a 5x5 tent is a pain in the arse. May be doable next round.
The Martian kush are insane nutso stretchers. Even when I defoliated them at 14 days of 12/12 to shut them down from getting so much taller than the Master Kush, it just didnt cut it and they stood 8-10" taller. I knew this would hurt. I'll never mix strains in a tent again.
But the real lesson was something I had not thought of. In my 5x5 tent I use a raptor hood and 1k hps. This is a HUGE hood. I mean massive wide which is what I want. So I centered the hood in the tent right? BAD IDEA! Where is the bulb? Look up into the hood and the bulb is a foot over one direction. DOH! What a dipshit I am!
After two grows, the plant in the back left corner (furthest away from bulb) have awesome great growth but not nearly as dense as those under the best amount of light.
We're talking a shit ton less dense, while still very large buds.
*****How does this relate to defoliation?******
This just further illustrates that light is a major factor in bud development and density. While reflectivity helps, it doesn't replace direct light. Nor does stacking hundreds of fan leaves (translucent as they may be) offer greater benefit than direct light. Fan leaves are light blockers after an adjacent node has developed.
One can argue all they want about storage facilities, till their eyes bleed. We are not in nature where nutrients are not nearly as plentiful. We are feeding daily (or 24/7 in my case, w/rdwc) great nutrients. Storage isnt needed.
Others will argue about the leaves transpiring, and feeding sugars etc to the buds. But we are not removing sugar leaves. We're taking all the fan leaves out. I argue there is well enough more leaf than needed making sugars and transpiring all that's needed.
This sounds like theory, but it's based on my observations actually using the technique.
I can't wait to finish chopping. I'll clean up the rdwc system and tent. Then 4 Kosher Kush go back in. But not till AFTER I move the hood to off center and set the light to more center. All the plants will get as much direct light as possible and routinely get defoliated.
It also makes me wonder if I would do better with 2 x 600w hps in the 5x5. With the bulbs facing in opposite directions and a 3rd off overlapping of light in the center, would end up with a much better, denser yield.
Last grow gave me 28 ozs from 4 plants under 34" tall. I suspect this grow will only yield about 18-20 because of the two strains and the discovered light issue. But based on past experience I fully expect to see 26-32 oz from the kosher kush grow.
For this type of technique, and my local state laws, available electrical & cooling, my 4 plant grows ideally need about 1200 watts and fitting that into a 5x5 tent is a pain in the arse. May be doable next round.
B
BasementGrower
so i was just back in NY today.. lookin at what my boy did with the 75 plants in 5 gal grow bags.. and they were fucking huge.. bushes. tons of clonage available.. but since hes running so many plants under so little light.. we went through and chopped off all the small branches and pretty much lollipopped everything that wasnt a huge branch so each of the 75 plants will have between 5-10 colas per plant. im staying the night and working here to help get this shit going so we can flip to flower.. how long after defoliating and taking clones and such should i tell him to flip these things.. im thinking give it a week or so .. and then flip.. so they dont go into flower stressed..
how long do u guys recomend.
how long do u guys recomend.
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willyweed
yep just don't forget ya sunglasses .when i went up north east to the seaside .middle of august hot sunny day ,paddling in the sea up to me ankles,nearly died of frost bite.lolAt 55 degrees in north east uk a 1000w hps kicks the suns ass mate lmao
I always suggest about a week. Or until they have fully releafed anyways. You don't want them going into transition while they are trying to re-leaf.
Doesn't;t matter if its copy and paste bottom line a 1000 watt light is comparable to the sun only difference is money comes out of your wallet rather then free sun power.
The average pot head can tell the difference from outdoor grown and indoor grown weed in a second and like guy said lat x long makes a huge difference even in out door yields
Here some more true facts if you don;t believe me
figure the rest out for your self hahahaa
Sunlight is a portion of the electromagnetic radiation given off by the Sun, particularly infrared, visible, and ultraviolet light. On Earth, sunlight is filtered through the Earth's atmosphere, and is obvious as daylight when the Sun is above the horizon.
When the direct solar radiation is not blocked by clouds, it is experienced as sunshine, a combination of bright light and radiant heat. When it is blocked by the clouds or reflects off other objects, it is experienced as diffused light.
The World Meteorological Organization uses the term "sunshine duration" to mean the cumulative time during which an area receives direct irradiance from the Sun of at least 120 watts per square meter.[1]
Sunlight may be recorded using a sunshine recorder, pyranometer or pyrheliometer.
Sunlight takes about 8.3 minutes to reach the Earth. On average, it takes energy between 10,000 and 170,000 years to leave the sun's interior and then be emitted from the surface as light.[2]
Direct sunlight has a luminous efficacy of about 93 lumens per watt of radiant flux. Bright sunlight provides illuminance of approximately 100,000 lux or lumens per square meter at the Earth's surface. The total amount of energy received at ground level from the sun at the zenith is 1004 watts per square meter, which is composed of 527 watts of infrared radiation, 445 watts of visible light, and 32 watts of ultraviolet radiation. At the top of the atmosphere sunlight is about 30% more intense, with more than three times the fraction of ultraviolet (UV), with most of the extra UV consisting of biologically-damaging shortwave ultraviolet.[3][4][5]
Sunlight is a key factor in photosynthesis, a process vital for many living beings on Earth.
