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Fireknot farm 2016

...Buena...:bandit:

Last night my larger plants in 5 gallons (over 3') started displaying the rootbound droop.

What would you do if you were me?

I have 48 females...20 to pick from...

- Go plant them right now and water via barrels. Mounds are 25% done.

- Go buy 7 gallon pots to hold them off until completion

- Just scrap these nice big bitches and go for the littles


Edit...here's a pic...not as bad this morn, but will see how they look tonight:

ftVPC3th.jpg
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
I don't even really understand why you wouldn't want to pot the large plants? They are seeds right, and don't require supplemental lighting?

I would plug those big girls asap, and keep the little girls for backups in case of disease, early flower, ext. I know I plan to plug my starts after the next couple days of rain. I suppose I could run into another late frost date, but that has mostly passed.

My thoughts are, the faster I can plug my plants, the faster they can reach their full potential.

I also like to keep my starts in 5 gal smart pots or larger so they can veg longer if needed in those pots. I go from 1-2 gallon to start with. Then I transplant into 5 gal when they are brought outside. You can grow a pretty large plant in a 5 gallon smart pot.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
I think you can grow those plants bigger in those fabric pots without worry.

The droop looks like overwatering. They also look a little hungry, hit them with a fertigation. I have noticed in the past that plants outside can get that droopy look from being deficient in nutrients.

My plants got a little hungry after their recent transplant, because they kept drinking from the old rootball. The color on some of them was similar to yours and they werent praying as hard for the light. I hit them with sea shield @ 1oz per gallon root drench and they were praying hard for the light the following day / back to the right color just 3 days after the application.
 

oct

Member
Yeah tess get your garden wrapped up and plug those things asap. I have clones going out in 1.5 weeks (with supplemental)...save time and money and skip the next potting up, they need to be outside permanently.
 
S

Stone House

I would go ahead and put them in the mounds you have ready,the overcast weather we are having right now should help any transplant shock. I am a little north of you at 2300 feet, mine have been in the ground for over a week and are growing great (SSH). I also planted in 200s ,ssdd,lemon thai extreme, goji. If we get a frosty night I'll make some small cages and throw a garbage bag till morning. Even if bad weather hits you were thinking of scraping them anyway.
Did you ever set up any protection from the deer? I remember you had a group hanging around.
 
Thanks guys. I ammended manganese gypsum and oyster shells by hand. It took at least 10 hours of work. I will spray the micros on the mounds when the rains pass. Then plant the cover crop a little late and get the plants transplanted. I'll probably put up a fence in the rain...fuck it...

Anyone know how to ammend gypsum 6 weeks from now with a cover crop and mulch planted?

The mounds still need chicken wire and I still need to figure out the whole irrigation system...pump still hasnt been shipped...might go with a backup if im hauling 50gals up at a time (x20) for more than a week...fuck that...

Here's what I got done today at least:

S04m54ch.jpg


I need to smoke a jay:joint:
 

Mendogrowing

Active member
Amending gypsum in 6 weeks? Looks like your a little late on that one. As far as chicken wire, stem defense. Make triangles kinda like the croissant dough that comes in a can, loosely wrap the triangle around the stalk, skinny pointy end horizontal, taller part perpendicular, cut you triangles so it gives you a good 10-12 inches of protection on the base of the stalk
 
Thanks

Leadsled said to ammend half gypsum now and half in 6 weeks.

Can it be irrigated? [This is what im thinking...looks like vineyards do it] Or top dressed?

I was going to wrap the entire mounds themselves. You dont think the hardware cloth is enough 'stem defense'? It protrudes 6 to 10 inches.

Shooting for planting may 8th.
 

leadsled

Member
Thanks

Leadsled said to ammend half gypsum now and half in 6 weeks.

Can it be irrigated? Or top dressed?

I was going to wrap the entire mounds themselves. You dont think the hardware cloth is enough 'stem defense'? It protrudes 6 to 10 inches.

Shooting for planting may 8th.

Props to you. That is a lot of work.
Can add the gypsum either way. But since you got a cover crop, irrigate it in. For irrigating I prefer to use a wand. Keep it mixed well and that will disperse the gypsum into the soil.

FYI, If you doing a dep, can also amend the gypsum after you pull. If going for full season plants then can water it in. I will see a little but on the top of the medium but then it gets watered in.

Re:Container:
The most important time of a plant life is when there are young.
A larger container allows more of a buffer against stress. I agree about the comments on transplanting up and going big on the containers.

Hope that helps, if not please ask. Try to check in when I have time. Been busy. Sending positive vibes and wishing you success!
 

leadsled

Member
If the internodes start growing with larger spacing that is a sign you do not have enough root space. A sign that the root to shoot ratios is unbalanced.
When you get a large plant mass in relation to the root mass the plant can start to cannabilize itself to try and prevent from "shitting the bed". So always best to try and prevent this.

I see alot of grower/farms rushing to wait, the grower get large plants that will never perform at optimal levels because they were then stressed or held up from growing at peak level and then on top of that not transplanted in time.

Transplanting too late or keeping a plant in too small of a container can give stress and hurt yields.

Some growers get this idea they can try and stall the growth and then have the plant take off when the timing is right for the grower.

vs.
Keep the plant stress free and performing from the moment it is born.

p.s. This is a general statement and not speaking about anyone in particular. Just sharing what I feel is optimal in an ideal situation.
Million ways to do things. Trying to optimize for max results.
 

jbarsk8

Active member
If the internodes start growing with larger spacing that is a sign you do not have enough root space. A sign that the root to shoot ratios is unbalanced.
When you get a large plant mass in relation to the root mass the plant can start to cannabilize itself to try and prevent from "shitting the bed". So always best to try and prevent this.

I see alot of grower/farms rushing to wait, the grower get large plants that will never perform at optimal levels because they were then stressed or held up from growing at peak level and then on top of that not transplanted in time.

Transplanting too late or keeping a plant in too small of a container can give stress and hurt yields.

Some growers get this idea they can try and stall the growth and then have the plant take off when the timing is right for the grower.

vs.
Keep the plant stress free and performing from the moment it is born.

p.s. This is a general statement and not speaking about anyone in particular. Just sharing what I feel is optimal in an ideal situation.
Million ways to do things. Trying to optimize for max results.


Well said sir
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
plant as many as you can as soon as you can.. like others said, rootbound is
no bueno, will reduce your final yield although you are still gonna crush it regardless!

last year i had to wait for soil delivery and half my garden got planted a week later than the rest. the earlier transplants did finish bigger in october, the later , more stressed/rootbound ones just never fully caught up

not a bad idea to have a 2nd
round of starts ready just in case


recently a friend was bragging to me about his 6-foot starts, which he sprouted in january. i told him
i would rather have some freshly-sprouted seedlings at this point
 

oct

Member
Shcrews is it too cold where you live to plug? I'm strictly a clone guy, but if I ran seeds, I'd be getting them in the first week of may for sure. A lot of my friends that run seeds are fully plugged by May 1.
 
Last edited:
S

Stone House

Tess, last year I was late in building my fence built and needed to get my plants in the 200s. I had the big cages (the final cages that support the mature limbs) laying around,
so I put them around the 200s and the wrapped the lower part of the cage with 4' chicken
wire. This prevented damage to plants from deer and jackrabbits until my fence was finished.

Don't know if you have the big cages laying around since its your first grow at this spot
but if you do it might buy you some time until you can build a fence.
 
The fence is going up today/tomorrow rain or shine.

Remesh is going to have to come later I have other priorities right now. Wish I already had those done.
 

Mendogrowing

Active member
I didn't know you could water in the gypsum, I usually add it first to the mound site then build the mound. Def wrap your mounds if you can. The hardware cloth circles in your pics wouldn't work at my place, rabbits, voles and whatever the kangaroo looking mice are around here would jump that and have a stalk gnawing party.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
If the internodes start growing with larger spacing that is a sign you do not have enough root space.

Are you sure you dont mean less spacing between nodes when root bound?

In my experiences the nodes get really tight when rootbound, almost like they want to flower.
 
The jackasses I ordered the pump from had it on backorder 6 weeks after telling me it was in stock.

I need a pump electric or gas thats going to be able to move water from my well (good pressure) 200ft to my 1" pvc junction then another 150ft to the garden from there.

Help...
 

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