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Ok. So the clones were made yesterday, an will be under 24/0 light for tree weeks. Unfortunately that will delay my plans quite a lot. Should i try to grow them outside or will i bee to late?
They need to be under a 18/6 cycle at the longest, a 16/8 cycle would be ideal. 24/0 will encourage them to bloom if placed directly outdoors.
What light cycle were the moms under? 24/0 ??
Thanks for the advice, will keep them under 16/8. Unfortunately i don't know anything about the moms.
About how tall could a clone grow in three weeks? My good i making more and more questions...i hope it's ok?
outdoordreams do you have any pics of your setup on tarpping, you've got some great looking plants there from manually covering them. I'm interested in ways of adjusting the light cycle manually. I usually put some 1ft plants in a shed to keep the 12/12 cycle, I'm at 52N and most plants don't seem to start here until the last week in Aug first week of Sept, by the time they would finish it's too wet and cold here and you get probs with dreaded mold. Is there any threads on manually adjusting the photoperiod???
Its pretty simple, just keep the plants from seeing more than 12 hours of light per day until they finish, most strains take between 8-12 weeks to finish.
BC, I have a girl outside now but is in a spot where from mid-afternoon on is in the shodow of a tree and fence. The plant will see less light/more shadow as the sun receeds to the south as fall approaches. Will this cause early bloom/finish? Is this simillar to tarping?
Well, the light needs to be very dim before the plant will see it as night, if the light is still bright enough for your eyes to see the difference in colors it is too bright still for the plant to consider it night, even if it is not direct sunshine.
On the other hand, many growers(including me) have noticed that plants placed in a location where the direct light is off them for the last several hours of the day do seem to finish a week or two early, but I have not done a controlled study myself to truely see that this is actually fact.
But no, tarping, capping, bagging, or my prefered term "forcing", is not the same thing.
I do not know if this is related but my girl has preflowers but has not fully begun to produce buds.
She is indeed growing at a rather phenominal rate compred to my meger 250w hps grow.
Next year I intend to grow more. It would be nice to suppliment my bud requirements with outdoor produce. Perhaps even grow enough to not have to do an indoor during the summer...heat is a bitch requiring AC to mitigate the high temps.
I also intend to plant int he ground next year rather then above ground buckets (20 gal). I have been reading htat high rootball temps have a negivite impact on bud production.
wow backcountry!, what a thread bro. I live in the N.E. region and have my 1st outdoor grow going, everything looks lovely. just curious if u have any knowledge on my strains cannadential(dna boys),strwberry cough, nl/haze#5. all came from clones of 2yr mothers veg for 10-12 wks indoors 24hrs light planted from early june and last went in 7-3. any guess on finish time outdoors for my lat i'm guessing it would be close 2 boston's 42degrees?
I have a Durban and took a clone from the mother plant which I had forced flower for 2weeks before taking clone. The cutting is in rockwool and I usually put it under a desk lamp to extend the light period. But it is producing pistils and no sign of roots yet, would the parent continue to flower if I stopped moving it for the 12/12, or would it reverse, they seem to take a long time to reverse being I'm at 52N, would this be an advantage and prevent plants from reversing once past the solstice, would they know the light was dropping and keep flowering normally. Maybe our Dutch friends would have some knowledge of this or anyone know?? The weather hasn't been great here a lot of cloud this summer! Interested to hear your views thanks
WHAT IF I CUT IT AT THE BASE...IE CHRISTMAS TREE STYLE, PUT IN A BUCKET OF FLOWERING NUKES TO FINISH IN A BETTER LOCATION.... WILL IT STRESS TOO MUCH... HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS METHOD BEFORE
LOL if you want to move it HOVAH, dig it up and wrap root ball in a sack to move to new location, do not cut at base,"Christmas Tree Style" or your plant will be DEAD. Just best to dig it up with as much of the root ball as possible and replant in soil again don't put it into a bucket of water with nukes, it will be too shocked and may drown!!!!
BC, this is a great thread. Photo period is probably one of the most understood/misunderstood issues a grower faces.
I won't go into a long soliloquy, I just want to touch on a topic that ties into this.
I realize that you have said early on that you don't feel that the moon has much to do with the photosensitive part of the plant. And with my observations, I tend to agree with you, but only when considering the light. I think that many of us dismiss the effect that the moon really does have on plant life.
Following moon cycles and using them in conjunction with horticulture has been a staple practice for thousands of years, and it seems that there is some credence to the theory. We have to realize that the moon has a profound effect on everything we do here on Earth, as it greatly effects nature here. Just look at how powerful the moon is...as it can cause the tides of our Earth to rise and fall. One would have to dismiss common logic to think this tremendous force does not come into play in a real and big way.
I have heard many times growers say that they dismiss the moon phases for indoor grows, but I feel they are probably only considering the lighting ability of the moon, and are dismissing it's real power, which probably doesn't care if the plant is indoors or out.
Hey Backcountry. Just wanted to tell you that while I was waiting for activation I stole this post to place on another forum (with full acknowlegment of course). They sorely needed it over there--tons of nubes stressing over "When is 12/12 in my area" LOL. I hope you don't mind. If so I will gladly remove it. Peace.