Earth Juice Users

[Tactical Farmer]

Tactical,

Dont forget the warning that comes with that super fungi mix of yours...

***WARNING***

A mix of Fungi in that concentration will eat thought small steams and plants with no problems which may result in death of the plant.

I hope thats a good warning.

Thats right on dude...

Wish I took some pics of that carnage, it was insane looking.

Watching it come in like a wave of white webby death, pushing it away just aggravated it.

It wasn't the trich (gray web) that forms on the surface which will also kill small plants it was a thick pure white fungi.

Looks alot like mushroom type - like the one in this pic.

Heres the Culture thread: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=179374

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I just mix all the tea ingredients right from the start, give it a few days for the microbs to work on breaking the nutes down.

 

[loki3xb]

AOD2012-

I have a ton of additives that I mix in with my EJ, I mix them at the same time I would add the EJ, even with teas and all, just throw it in. You shouldn't have a problem as long as what you are add is "inline" with the EJ way of doing things. IE Fungi/Bacteria

Heres a questions for you guys..

If you remember a few pages back I explained I was going to use up the rest of my Bio-Canna and move to EJs and Guanos, well that time has come and I think I also added a post about the new soil and mixture im using (heres the question) After using only EJ/Guanos I noticed that I get what I like to call "Lazy Limbs".. Lower branches seem to droop and hang, I dont see anything wrong with the steam such as bending or breaking or things of that nature, Im wondering if its a nutrient thing as in deficiency or in the best kind of way that EJ is working so well that the branches cant hold the weight. Ill upload pictures later so you guys can give a fair assessment.. Forgot to add the nugs look great on those branches they are just "lazy"

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Its hard to (name that deficiency) over the net but I will take a wild early guess its potassium aka: potash (K).

That takes care of plant strength & most organic ferts are low on it.

Most Molasses has a good shot of it though.

If the lower branches are not in good light then wack them off sooner so the tops can get fatter ?

I get lazy branches also but it only pops up the last few weeks - can't figure it out ?

 

[loki3xb]

Tactical--

Ive been using Meta K and Black Strap Molasses, Im thinking of getting that Earth Juice High Brix Molasses but I cant find it locally... Thats about the same time its happening to me as well, right around the last few weeks of flowering... Take a look, they are not the best pictures.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Looks like bud weight drop to me bro - looks pretty fat.

Meta-K & Blackstrap are super rich in K - if your using them very often then it could be an overload / lockout ?

Or not - just throwing that out there.

The leaf de-coloring doesn't look like N really - what was the first negative leaf changes ?

Top or bottom - spots or crispy leaf ?

 

[loki3xb]

I do use Molasses often and same with the Meta K.. It starts at the bottom with black spots and then moves from there. Havent been able to figure it out.. Whatcha think it is? Isnt that normal at the end of a plants life to show a bit of yellow like that???

Just an FYI thats very interesting you say that, what made you ask about the leaf change?

 

[liquidmaco]

stake that bad boy up! looks heavy to me. leaves looks a little worse for wear too, might have something to do with that. do you have fans in your rooms? also are you moving it around alot? if your popping it out every night to show your girlfriend that might be it.. i plan on using those tomato cage things in my pots next time around. i like to rotate and sometimes they knock each other over. ab those spots, do you have any microblast? too late now it seems but you should be armed for the next round with something along those lines.

 

[loki3xb]

Liquidmaco-

I hate to say it but im single, anyways I dont think I would be "popping" it out every night to show the GF I do have fans in the room, one 16 inch wall mount and another 18 inch wall mount that run 24-7. They do get moved a bit, I like to play musical water basins, every time I water I move them one to the left, they are under two 1000W HPS, the reason I do this is so light reaches different places on the plant. Right now im using the complete EJ line (Grow,Bloom,Cat.,Mirco,Meta K) and also use some additives (Ill post the complete list later) but I never thought about it might be from the moving, too close to the forest to see the trees in front of my face (literally) lol

 

[Tactical Farmer]

I do use Molasses often and same with the Meta K.. It starts at the bottom with black spots and then moves from there. Havent been able to figure it out.. Whatcha think it is? Isnt that normal at the end of a plants life to show a bit of yellow like that???

Just an FYI thats very interesting you say that, what made you ask about the leaf change?

You (might) want to try using less of those 2 items - molasses has a really high npK level also.

An excess (lockout) looks alot like a shortage.

If your using those often & still getting early signs of leaf damage (black spots) then something is off.

* Could be alot of other things also - PH / Environment / Etc.

A gradual yellowing from the bottom up is a more natural finish.

Those a just my personal opinions - something to think about.
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Here is some stuff I saved:

Nutrient values (N-P-K) are expressed as total percentage of weight as packaged. Organic nutrients typically tend to have lower npk values than chemical nutrients. Don't let this fool you, you can easily burn plants if you overfertilize!
Powder nutrients tend to have higher NPK values than liquid nutrients because they are not already partially diluted with water. Do not let low N-P-K values fool you, what really matters is how strong these nutrients are when diluted to recommended levels ie: thier tds/ppm/ms/eC/cf.
What does N-P-K stand for?
N = Nitrogen
Nitrogen is the first major element responsible for the vegetative growth of plants above ground. With a good supply, plants grow sturdily and mature rapidly, with rich, dark green foliage.
P = Phosphorus
The second major element in plant nutrition, phosphorus is essential for healthy growth, strong roots, fruit and flower development, and greater resistance to disease.
K = Potassium (Potash)
The third major plant nutrient, potassium oxide is essential for the development of strong plants. It helps plants to resist diseases, protects them from the cold and protects during dry weather by preventing excessive water loss.

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Like most plants, cannabis uses N more than any other nutrient — especially during the vegetative growth stage of the life cycle. N directly helps the plant to create chlorophyll, which is used in photosynthesis for the production of plant energy. Without sufficient levels of N, cannabis plants turn a pale yellow-green, starting with the bottom leaves and gradually moving up to the top of the plant. Eventually the leaves wither and fall off. Lack of N also stunts plant growth.

A major component of proteins, hormones, chlorophyll, vitamins and enzymes essential for plant life. Nitrogen metabolism is a major factor in stem and leaf growth (vegetative growth). Nitrogen is a key element in the structure of amino acids, the molecules which make up proteins. . Chlorophyll, genetic material (for example, DNA), and numerous enzymes and plant hormones contain nitrogen. Hence, N is necessary for many of the plant's life processes.
Given ample N, Cannabis will outgrow practically and plant. Ample nitrogen is associated with fast, lush growth, and the plant requires a steady supply of nitrogen throughout its life. Marijuana's requirements for N are highest during the vegetative growth stages.
Deficiency symptoms: Leaves turn light green to yellow or becomes necrotic and drop off; plants are stunted and secondary shoot development is poor. Usually there is a rapid yellowing and loss of the lower leaves that progresses quickly to the top of the plant unless nitrogen is soon added.
Toxicity symptoms (nitrogen): Plants are stunted, deep green in color, and secondary shoot development is poor. High N causes vegetative growth instead of reproductive bud formation.
Toxicity symptoms (ammonium): Roots turn brown and appear unhealthy, with necrotic root tips; plant growth is decreased; necrotic lesions occur on stems and leaves; vascular browning often occurs in stems and roots; severe chlorsis and stunting of new leaves are symptoms on some plants.
Ammonium toxicity is common in soilless media, in highly acidic media, and under low temperatures. High carbohydrate and potassium levels in the plant can prevent some of the toxicity symptoms in some plants.
Ammonium fertilizers tend to make the soil more acidic, and nitrate fertilizers tend to make the soil more alkaline

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Like most plants, cannabis uses P during photosynthesis to create chemical compounds essential to plant growth, especially floral development during the flowering phase of the life cycle. Lack of P causes plant veins to turn red and also stunts plant growth. Foods that are high in P are also called xBloom'foods.

Necessary for seed germination, photosynthesis, protein formation and almost all aspects of growth and metabolism in plants. It is essential for flower and fruit formation. P is a constituent of energy-transfer compounds such as NADP and ATP, and molecular complexes such as the genes. The energy compounds are necessary for photosynthesis, respiration, and synthesis of biomolecules. Cannabis takes up large amounts of P during germination and seedling stages. During flowering and seed set, Cannabis' need for phosphorous is also high.
Deficiency symptoms: Growth is stunted and old leaves initially dark green; older leaves may turn purple. Leaves overall are smaller and dark green; red colour appears in petioles and stems. The leaves may also develop red or purple colour starting on the veins of the underside of the leaf. Generally the tips of most of the leaf blades on the lower portion of the plant die before the leaves lose colour. Lower leaves slowly turn yellow before they die. Very acidic conditions can dramatically decrease P availability.
High P in the plant can cause Fe and Zn deficiencies. High P levels in the soil can help to deter aluminum toxicity in very acidic conditions.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

K assists the plant's chemical synthesis and overall metabolism. Some chemical synthesis processes are used to help fight disease, so lack of potassium can make your plant vulnerable to plant diseases like mold, fungi and wilt. K also assists in seed and stem development. Without sufficient K, stems and branches become weak and break. Necrotic patches develop on leaf tips at the base of the plant and in blotchy patterns in the middle of those leaves. Red stems are a sign of a K problem, but red stems can be a genetic trait in some plants, especially in equatorial strains, and cold temperatures can cause stems to turn red as well. Be careful not to misdiagnose these symptoms as a K deficiency and risk overfeeding your plant.

Necessary for formation of sugars, starches, carbohydrates, protein synthesis and cell division in roots and other parts of the plant. It helps to adjust water balance, improves stem rigidity and cold hardiness, enhances flavor and color on fruit and vegetable crops, increases the oil content of fruits and is important for leafy crops. Just as with P, K uptake is highest during the earliest growth stages. K is associated with sturdy stems and resistance to disease in plants.
Deficiency symptoms: Leaf margins turn chlorotic and then necrotic; scattered chlorotic spots often occur on the leaves, and these spots may later turn necrotic. K deficiencies sometimes show on indoor plants even when there is apparently enough supplied for normal growth. Often, potassium-deficient plants are the tallest and appear to be the most vigorous. Starting on the large lower leaves, the tips of the blades brown and die. Necrotic areas or spots form on the blades, particularly along the margins. Sometimes the leaves are spattered with chlorotic tissue before necrosis develops, and the leaves look pale or yellow.
High amounts of K can cause Ca, Mg, and N deficiencies. High sodium can cause K deficiency.
High soil Mg can reduce K uptake, but it seems to occur only when the soil Mg saturation is in the range of 25% to 30%, or higher.
Numerous studies have looked at the possibility of using the K/(Ca + Mg) ratio to explain certain nutrition problems. While this ratio may be useful at some times, often there is no relationship between these cation ratios and crop performance.
High K levels can help against ammonium toxicity.
There is no evidence that K has a direct elemental toxicity. Excess K is more likely to be experienced first as an induced Mg deficiency. Next on the scale of probable high K damage signs might be induced Ca deficiencies

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Necessary for many enzyme functions and as a catalyst for the synthesis of chlorophyll. It is essential for the young growing parts of plants.
Deficiency symptoms: Interveinal chorosis of new leaves followed by complete chlorosis and/or bleaching of new leaves . Symptoms of iron deficiency are usually distinct. Symptoms appear first on the new growing shoots. The leaves are chlorotic between the veins, which remain dark green and stand out as a green network. To distinguish between Mg and Fe deficiencies, check the lower leaves for symptoms. Iron symptoms are usually most prominent on the growing shoots. Mg deficiencies will also show in the lower leaves. If many of the lower leaves have been spotting or dying, the deficiency is probably Mg. Mg deficiencies are much more common than iron deficiencies in marijuana.
Alkaline conditions, high P, high Zn, Mn, Cu, or nickel in acid soils, poorly drained soils, and other poor root conditions can induce Fe deficiency. Iron deficiency also results in reduced rates of growth. Very acidic conditions can result in iron toxicity

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Chlorophyll is a group of magnesium containing green pigments that occur in plants, giving the characteristic green color to foliage and acting as absorbers of light for photosynthesis. Since Mg is central to chlorophyll production, the plant needs it to carry out photosynthesis. Plants with Mg problems exhibit both yellowing and leaf curl, especially leaves that curls upwards at the base of the plant. This is where the saying — The plant is praying for magnesium' comes from.

Mg problems are the most common secondary nutrient disorder you will come across. To correct this, feed your plant 1/3 of a tablespoon of Epsom salts per three gallons of water every three to four weeks. You should choose Epsom salts from your grow shop instead of Epsom salts from the drugstore because the grow shop version is designed for plant use (easier to break down in water). You also get a lot more Epsom salts for your money if you buy it in a grow shop. If your soil does not contain Mg, you will need to use a feeding product that contains Mg. You should be able to buy secondary feeding products from your local grow shop. They come either in liquid, powder or granular format. Avoid using granules because they take more time to break down in the soil. Granule type foods tend to be ^slow release' foods. 'Formulex' is a good secondary food product that can be used to correct Mg problems.

A critical structural component of the chlorophyll molecule and is necessary for functioning of plant enzymes to produce carbohydrates, sugars and fats. It is used for fruit and nut formation and essential for germination of seeds.
Deficiency symptom: Interveinal chlorosis on older leaves. Magnesium deficiencies also occur in mixtures that contain very large amounts of Ca or Cl. Symptoms of Mg deficiency occur first on the lower leaves. There is chlorosis of tissue between the veins, which remain green, and starting from the tips the blades die and usually curl upward. Purple colour builds up on stems and petioles.A plant in a pot may lose much of its colour in a matter of weeks. You may first notice Mg symptoms at the top of the plant. The leaves in the growing shoot are lime-coloured. In extreme cases, all the leaves turn practically white, with green veins. Iron deficiency looks much the same, but a sure indication of Mg deficiency is that a good portion of the leaf blades die and curl.
High sodium, K, and Ca can cause Mg deficiency.
High Mg can cause Ca deficiency.
Numerous studies have looked at the possibility of using the K/(Ca + Mg) ratio to explain certain nutrition problems. While this ratio may be useful at some times, often there is no relationship between these cation ratios and crop performance.
Very acidic conditions can cause Mg to be less available.
Magnesium toxicity's are very rare.


Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Involved in enzyme activity for photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen metabolism.
Deficiency symptoms: lnterveinal chlorosis of new leaves with some green next to veins and later with grey or tan necrotic spots in chlorotic areas.
Alkaline soils, poorly drained soils, and soils high in available Fe can induce Mn deficiency. High available Mn can cause Fe deficiency.
Manganese toxicity is a relatively common problem compared to other micronutrient toxicity. It normally is associated with soils of pH 5.5 or lower, but can occur whenever the soil pH is below 6.0. Symptoms include chlorosis and necrotic lesions on old leaves, dark-brown or red necrotic spots, accumulation of small particles of MnO2 in epidermal cells of leaves or stems, often referred to as "measles", drying leaf tips, and stunted roots

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

A component of enzymes or a functional cofactor of a large number of enzymes including auxins (plant growth hormones). It is essential to carbohydrate metabolism, protein synthesis and internodal elongation (stem growth).
Deficiency symptoms: Interveinal chlorosis of new leaves with some green next to veins; short internodes and small leaves; rosetting or whirling of leaves.
Plant roots appear to absorb Zn and Cu by the same mechanism. This causes interference in the uptake of one when the other is in excess in the root zone.
it has been reported that additions of Mg can increase the uptake of Zinc.
High pH and high P or Mn can induce Zn deficiency.
Excessive Zn availability or uptake could just as easily cause deficiencies of other nutrients such as P, resulting in their deficiency symptom being the only apparent symptom, or could manifest as chlorotic and necrotic leaf tips, interveinal chlorosis in new leaves, retarded growth of the entire plant, and injured roots which resemble barbed wire.

Calcium
Plant cells use and store Ca for cell development. Ca problems are rare and the symptoms are almost undetectable in cannabis, but if left untreated they will stunt growth and eventually cause the plant to wilt. If your plants display stunted growth yet do not display any symptoms associated with a another nutrient disorder then adjust the amount of Ca that you are adding to your plants in the feeding plan. To prevent secondary nutrient problems like our Ca problem here, which are hard to detect, you should top up on all of the secondary nutrients together.

Activates enzymes, is a structural component of cell walls, influences water movement in cells and is necessary for cell growth and division. Plants use calcium to help take up nitrogen and other minerals. Ca functions as a coenzyme in the synthesis of fatty compounds and cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis (replication of cells). Plants take up much more Ca than the small amount necessary for normal growth. Calcium, once deposited in plant tissue, is immobile (non-translocatable) so there must be a constant supply for growth.
Deficiency symptoms: Light green color or uneven chlorosis of young leaves; margins of young leaves fail to form (strap-leaves); growing points of stems and roots cease to develop (blunt end); poor root growth and roots short and thickened.
Very acidic conditions can cause Ca to be less available.
Calcium, for all practical purposes, is not considered to have a directly toxic effect on plants. Most of the problems caused by excess soil Ca are the result of secondary effects of high soil pH. Another problem from excess Ca may be the reduced uptake of other cation nutrients. Before toxic levels are approached in the plant, crops will often suffer deficiencies of other nutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, boron, copper, iron, or zinc.
Numerous studies have looked at the possibility of using the K/(Ca + Mg) ratio to explain certain nutrition problems. While this ratio may be useful at some times, often there is no relationship between these cation ratios and crop performance.
High Ca can cause Mg or B deficiencies.
High sodium, K, and Mg can cause Ca deficiency.

Sulfur
Like K, S assists the plant's chemical synthesis and metabolism. It is also used in the creation of amino acids and proteins. Without S, new growth is yellow and pale looking. The rest of the plant will also eventually yellow from lack of S. It is important to catch S and l\l deficiencies early, before they advance to the stage where it is difficult to detect the actual cause of the problem. l\l disorders run from the bottom of the plant upwards. S starts at new growth formations and spreads from there. A severe case of an S deficiency looks exactly like a severe case of an l\l deficiency, so check your plants regularly to increase your chances of early detection.

A structural component of amino acids, proteins, vitamins and enzymes and is essential to produce chlorophyll. It imparts flavor to many vegetables. It is an important part of plant vitamins, such as biotin and thiamine, which are necessary for normal respiration and metabolism. (Plants synthesise all vitamins they need.) Some water supplies may contain Sulfur.
Deficiency symptom: Uniform chlorosis first appearing on new leaves. Sulfur is needed for formation of chloroplasts (not part of chlorophyll molecule). After the plant is deficient for a long time it may be difficult to tell S deficiency from N deficiency.
Sulfate/sulfur toxicity symptoms begin as an interveinal chlorosis and scorching of the leaf margins, which gradually proceeds inward.
Excess sulfate-S (SO4--) can reduce the uptake of some anions such as nitrates (NO3-) and the available form of molybdenum (MoO4-). Excessive amounts of nitrates can also reduce the uptake of sulfate-S.

Boron
Necessary for cell wall formation, membrane integrity, calcium uptake and may aid in the translocation of sugars. Boron affects at least 16 functions in plants. These functions include flowering, pollen germination, fruiting, cell division, water relationships and the movement of hormones. Boron must be available throughout the life of the plant. It is not translocated.
Deficiencies kill terminal buds leaving a rosette effect on the plant. Leaves are thick, curled and brittle. Fruits, tubers and roots are discolored, cracked and flecked with brown spots. B deficiency may occasionally occur in outdoor soils. The symptoms appear first at the growing shoots, which die and turn brown or grey. The shoots may appear "burned," and if the condition occurs indoors, you might think the lights have burned the plant. A sure sign of boron deficiency is that, once the growing tip dies, the lateral buds will start to grow but will also die.
High boron causes many cellular activities to be partially inhibited and the toxicity to mature tissues is not considered to arise from the disruption of a single process, but from the accumulated retardation of many cellular processes.
The range between a correct application rate, and a toxic one is not large, so it is relatively easy to apply too much boron. Because of this, it is very important to get uniform mixing and application, especially when applying in concentrated bands or foliar. Because of the slow transport of B in the plant, symptoms generally appear on the older leaves and consist of margin or leaf tip chlorosis, browning of leaf tips, which is quickly followed by the death of the affected tissue or defoliation. The critical plant level for toxicity can range from 10 - 50 ppm in sensitive plants and as high as 200 ppm in tollerant ones.

Copper
Concentrated in roots of plants and plays a part in nitrogen metabolism. It is a component of several enzymes and may be part of the enzyme systems that use carbohydrates and proteins.
Deficiency symptoms: lnterveinal chlorosis of new leaves with tips and edges green, followed by veinal chlorosis and finally rapid and extensive necrosis of leaf blades.
Acid soils increase Cu uptake and High pH inhibits uptake.
High Zn levels will reduce Cu availability.
Cu defiencies due to low content are very rare.

Molybdenum
A structural component of the enzyme that reduces nitrates to ammonia. Without it, the synthesis of proteins is blocked and plant growth ceases. Seeds may not form completely, and nitrogen deficiency may occur if plants are lacking molybdenum. Molybdenum is the only micronutrient that has increased availability as the pH increases.
Deficiency signs are pale green leaves with rolled or cupped margins.
Because of the intensity of interactions, toxic symptoms will normally manifest themselves as deficiencies of other nutrients (Usually Cu).

Chlorine
Involved in osmosis (movement of water or solutes in cells), the ionic balance necessary for plants to take up mineral elements and in photosynthesis.
Deficiency symptoms include wilting, stubby roots, chlorosis (yellowing) and bronzing.
Some plants may show signs of toxicity if levels are too high.
Toxic symptoms are similar as is found with typical salt damage. Leaf margins are scorched and abscission is excessive. Leaf/leaflet size is reduced and may appear to be thickened. Overall plant growth is reduced.
Chloride accumulation is higher in older tissue than in newly matured leaves.

Nickel
Required for the enzyme urease to break down urea to liberate the nitrogen into a usable form for plants. Nickel is required for iron absorption. Seeds need nickel in order to germinate. Plants grown without additional nickel will gradually reach a deficient level at about the time they mature and begin reproductive growth. If nickel is deficient plants may fail to produce viable seeds.

Sodium
Involved in osmotic (water movement) and ionic balance in plants.
One of the negative effects of excess Na is that it reduces the availability of K.

Cobalt
The demand for cobalt is much higher for nitrogen fixation than for ammonium nutrition. Deficient levels could result in nitrogen deficiency symptoms.

Silicon
Found as a component of cell walls. Plants with supplies of soluble silicon produce stronger, tougher cell walls making them a mechanical barrier to piercing and sucking insects. This significantly enhances plant heat and drought tolerance. Tests have also found that silicon can be deposited by the plants at the site of infection by fungus to combat the penetration of the cell walls by the attacking fungus. Improved leaf erectness, stem strength and prevention or depression of iron and manganese toxicity have all been noted as effects from silicon. Silicon has not been determined essential for all plants but may be beneficial for many.


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Old leaves turn yellowish/ red
Nitrogen deficiency

Old leaves turn yellowish/ red
Leaf loss and small dead areas
Phosphate deficiency

Black/ brown leaves, plants die
Excess phosphates

Yellow spots on old leaves and yellowish margins on younger leaves
Potassium deficiency

Yellowish margins on young leaves with deformations
Calcium deficiency

Yellow spots on old leaves while veins stay green
Magnesium deficiency

Young leaves turn yellow
Sulfur deficiency

Yellowing leaves starting from the tip then become white
Iron deficiency

Yellow spots between the veins, margins and tips
Zinc deficiency

Plant stays small slow or slow growth.
CO2 deficiency

Color loss from the outer edges in is under feeding

Color loss from the inner edges out is over feeding

General lack of color is over watering

 

[vagator333]

Hi Loki
Thanks a lot for your tip about Roots organics and the fungi over concentration.I am going to check out if that myco is available in europe.
Best high for all

 

[liquidmaco]

what a load of good info there tf. im def. gonna clip that and save it. thanks!

 

[loki3xb]

Thanks for the info, ill cut it back this round and let you guys know... I still have to post my complete line

 

[airphat36]

Nice thread, lots of good information here. I started out using synthetic nutes but I took the dive when I teamed up with a hippy friend who insisted on growing the "natural" way. I still need to get my feeding schedule dialed in but the quality is there. Now I'm hooked on 100% organic connoisseur quality cannabis.

I’m just past four weeks 12/12 on my second crop using the full EJ line. I chose the EJ line based off all the organic growers who swear by it and info by the 3LB. On my first go I used a 3:1 mix of Fox Farm ocean forest to light warrior soil. I didn’t use any Cal/Mag during my first cycle and fed them too light on the EJ Grow during stretch leading to Mag def and early N def. I ended up with some leaf burn trying to correct. Yield suffered but the finished product was excellent.

I decided to see if I could get faster growth with coco. I feed/water by hand but cannot be there every day. My solution was to run Hempy style buckets with an internal passive rez filled with perlite created by placing only one drain 2” from the bottom. I was hoping to get away with hand watering less often while still allowing for near hydro growth rates. Using the organic EJ line also means less of a concern over ph and salt buildup without runoff or need to flush.

The problem now is that without all the organic ingredients included in my soil mix and different factors concerning coco I’m having some trouble adjusting my feeding schedule. I used Epsom salt at ½ tsp per gallon twice during a five week veg period and twice so far during four weeks 12/12 to avoid the Mag def.

They certainly grew a bit faster than with soil during veg and where looking great until recently. I opened a thread in the infirmary for help when this batch began sucking the chlorophyll from lower fan leaves at three weeks 12/12; indentified again as Nitrogen def and now K def. I’ve had to double the strength and frequency of my teas to slow it down. Fortunately they seem to be putting on weight fast enough despite all the problems.

I’m going to stick with EJ until I get this method dialed in. The only grower with success using organic Hempy buckets I have found was premixing all his organic amendments into different layers of coco with only occasional light teas throughout the cycle. I’m thinking I may pre mix my coco with Fox Farm POM so I’m not relying solely on my EJ top feeds with teas.

I’ll get back to you guys with my EJ feeding schedule and some juicy pics once I get everything dialed in with these coco hempy buckets.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

air - sounds like a real mad scientist plan you got brewing - may the force be with you.

i have had bad luck with coco in my mix for whatever reason - seeding & clones stalled for a month last summer with it.

must not of got all the salt out of it after a soak in ware-barrel ?

anyway - i avoid anything with sodium / salt like the plague in my projects.

found a brand of molasses that has twice the % of mag to cal - compared to the more common & (better or mj) twice the % cal to mag.

That brand works great for an organic mag weapon.

will hunt it down if anyones interested ?

 

[AOD2012]

tactical, have you gotten your hands on the hi brix yet? i ordered some, and am waiting for it to get here. if you havent, ill let you know how it works.

 

[airphat36]

Ive been thinking about picking up a good molasses for my teas. That would be cool Tactical if you find the name of that one with extra Mag levels.

Right now I just use the EJ catalyst which of couse has some other great ingrediants to get he micros blooming. I hear it cant completley replace the molasses when it comes to high brix.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

EARTH JUICE CATALYST - (.03-.01-.1)

oat bran
kelp
wheat malt
molasses
yeast

* Not a molasses replacement in my opinion due to lack of Calcium & Magnesium but contains great fungal boosters. Also works great for seedlings, clones, foliar sprays.
_________________________________________________________________________

Hi-Brix - (0-0-3)

This rare and highly prized molasses is a natural source of plant nutrients that has been formulated for use in soil and hydroponics. It can be used in conjunction with a variety of fertilizers.

* contains 3% potassium
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Everyone seems to really like hi-brix - I haven't seen or tried it yet.

Would have pulled the trigger but haven't heard any specifics as far as how much cal - mag - iron is in it ?

Here are my molasses brand stats. lol

Brer Rabbit Blackstrap

Potassium - 23%
Calcium - 2%
Magnesium 15%
Iron 10%

Gramdma's Unsulfured Original

Potassium 3%
Calcium 4%
Magnesium 2%
Iron 4%

Tree of Life Unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses

Potassium 500mg %?
Calcium 15%
Magnesium 10%
Iron 20%

Wholesome Organic Molasses

Potassium 20%
Calcium 10%
Magnesium 8%
Iron 15%

Plantation Blackstrap Molasses

Potassium 10%
Calcium 20%
Magnesium % not listed ?
Iron 20%

I only have 3 of those in stock but as you can see there is a big difference between them with 4 important nutrients.

Thats why I have so many brands - just in case something specific needs attention.

Be advised the % is at 1 Tablespoon - So for example 1 Tablespoon molasses per gal of water:

Brer Rabbit Blackstrap (NPK-Cal-Mag-Iron) = 0-0-23-2-15-10

DAMN POTENT - At least thats my understanding of the conversion.

I only use a little from time to time.

Hi-Brix only lists the potassium content correct ?

 

[loki3xb]

Tactical

Great info, I happen to use the Wholesome Organics, they sell the big bottle at Wholefoods..

I have to say I'm a bit nervous, let me give a bit of background and ill explain why. So I had at one point in my VEG room, 24 plants under one 1000W. It was like this for a few weeks, so after I was able to get a few into the flowering room I was able to spread them into rows to get light to the lower part of the plants, well I noticed that the lower parts were yellowing, I expected this since they were so bunched together that the light couldn't really reach the lower part of the plant. Well now I'm noticing that some of the bigger fan leaves and even some of the smaller ones are getting dead spots / narcosis, I picked off a semi-dead spot leaf and chewed the stem and it tasted sweet (homemade brix meter) so I'm assuming they are getting everything they need, not to mention I'm using Just Right Xtra soil (which is very rich in everything) and they have got a tea with some MircoBlast and even a bit of Wholesome Organics molasses.

The thing that makes me nervous is its not all plants and I can't figure out what it is, any suggestions would be great..

 

[loki3xb]

I said above I would post my complete line, so here it goes.
Below is the list of what I have and use. Im not posting NPK values for the EJ products since im sure they are on this thread like 10 times.

Earth Juice Grow
Earth Juice Bloom
Earth Juice Meta K
Earth Juice Mirco Blast
Earth Juice Catalyst
Botanicare Liquid Karma 0.1-0.1-0.5
Hygrozyme Enzyme
Wholesome Organics Molasses
General Organics CaMg+ (NPK-CA-MG) 0-0-0-5-1
General Organics Diamond Black Humic Acid 0-0-1
Roots Organics Oregonism XL Bacteria / Fungi
Peruvian Seabird Guano 10-10-2
Mexican Bat Guano 10-2-1
Jamaican Bat Guano 1-10-0.2
Indonesian Bat Guano 0.5-12-0.2

Ill have to come back and post what I do with all that Strapped for time right now

 

[RipVanWeed]

Hey Loki, and TactFarmer,

I'm very interested in this issue Loki has with the yellowing and necrosis. My nute line up is almost identical to Loki.

This Jack Herer shows my problems.



Bout a week ago I checked runoff...Ph was 6.9, but ppm's was over 2000. I flushed the 3g pot w 2g of RO water, PPM's dropped below 800. She's lookiung better, but not flowering vigorously. My slant right now is that my precharged medium is too hot for the more Sativa style plants. Medium may also be slightly too dense as well, my plan is to cut my soil mix with extra Sunshine#4 and perlite for the JackHerer, SuperSilverHaze, and UKCheese. Indica's seem to like full strength everything.

I brew Tea and use almost every watering. I start with 4gal of 1/2 RO, 1/2 bubbled city water and EJ Grow and Bloom at 1/3rd recommended dose, then add some alfalfa, molasses, store bought EWC, Vermiblend, Worm Juice from the bottom of my worm bin, Liquid kelp, LK, Mosquito Dunk, 1 TBLS (per 4 gal) of a dry organic fert mix that consists of



After that's all brewed till the Ph goes up, I adjust Ph down to 6.2-6.5 using EJ Bloom (just takes a little). Then I dilute with another 4gal of water.

On the other hand I have a UK Cheese that's all ram horned up.

My flower lights are just going on I'll be back with pics

Respect,