Do my temp have to be higher?

[cellardwellar420]

Just changed lights to 12/12
Should i put a heater in the room? i have lifted plants 10cm over ground with xps insulatuons

My AirConditioner/heater/hcwac, is sirkulating more heat in the cellar, i just redirected the wents.

The air is dryer outside tent and colder

I am dialing in my flower settings, but i would like to dry it out a little to 48-55%

 

[cellardwellar420]

Temp 67.3fmin- Max 78f

 

[Creeperpark]

Temp 67.3fmin- Max 78f

In mother nature, the plant starts flowering when the temperature drops. I think you are just right because a little cool mixed with 78f helps trigger the end of the Season. Cool and dry during flowering time is what I shoot for. Thanks for posting friend, I love your setup.

 

[cellardwellar420]

In mother nature, the plant starts flowering when the temperature drops. I think you are just right because a little cool mixed with 78f helps trigger the end of the Season. Cool and dry during flowering time is what I shoot for. Thanks for posting friend, I love your setup.

Thank you for the kind words, i am learning as i go it makes sense, seasons and change well thank you again Creeperpark

 

[Ca++]

They look cold and wet. Though some of the carrots are possibly not working, as the hose is very kinked.


If we look at the nearest pot, both the kinked pipe and some odd stem growth can be seen. The stems are close to going flat. Showing some odd ribbed appearance, as they loose form. I think that is high RH. While the overall colour and range of deficiencies might simply be this high RH and a low temp.

This is pretty much regardless off the meter readings. They seem inconsistent day to day. I can't use them. I do wonder if the aircon is running less at night, and so the RH gets higher. Some people will use heaters to power on the aircon, for it's dehumidifying value. Far better, is to buy a dehumidifier, with a stat on it. It will both dry the air, and warm it. With winter coming for most of us, that aircon will be running less and less, and the heat a dehu~ creates, will be very welcome.



Temp is a huge crop steerer. It's right that cooler towards the end is helpful. I don't think you are there yet though. I think reducing temps before mid bloom, is probably too early.

 

[troutman]

Temp 67.3fmin- Max 78f

Nothing wrong with that.

 

[cellardwellar420]

They look cold and wet. Though some of the carrots are possibly not working, as the hose is very kinked.


If we look at the nearest pot, both the kinked pipe and some odd stem growth can be seen. The stems are close to going flat. Showing some odd ribbed appearance, as they loose form. I think that is high RH. While the overall colour and range of deficiencies might simply be this high RH and a low temp.

This is pretty much regardless off the meter readings. They seem inconsistent day to day. I can't use them. I do wonder if the aircon is running less at night, and so the RH gets higher. Some people will use heaters to power on the aircon, for it's dehumidifying value. Far better, is to buy a dehumidifier, with a stat on it. It will both dry the air, and warm it. With winter coming for most of us, that aircon will be running less and less, and the heat a dehu~ creates, will be very welcome.



Temp is a huge crop steerer. It's right that cooler towards the end is helpful. I don't think you are there yet though. I think reducing temps before mid bloom, is probably too early.

You are right about the waterline. can go a while to dry. But there is good airflow

The weird growth is just some leafs with stem still on

I have a big one dehumidifier outside tent, can i bring a ventchanal in?to blow?

 

[cellardwellar420]

I guess metabolism is faster in hot and moist?

 

[Ca++]

I guess metabolism is faster in hot and moist?

We need light, then temperature. After which comes EC pH and RH. RH and EC balance each other. So neither is more important than the other. Unless it's getting extreme. Your logs are rather unstable, which means that balance can't be found.

I'm not sure when you dipped to 20c, but I would only allow that at night. In the day, I would be wasting my time. Your max of 25c is my minimum. Under LED you should be targeting 28c. Though a couple of C either way, can favour one plant over another, we should consider our breeder found plants that work in their well dialed room.

I'm not sure that piping the dehu~ to the tent would be helpful. It's stat wouldn't be in the tent. There are a lot of variables between grow locations, and so the kit needed. Making advice difficult, without really knowing what's going on. 80% though, would require a high EC. Then 40% an EC about a third of that. All related to the extra water that would pass through the plant at that lower RH. The temp at these times would also effect transpiration, but that shift in EC requirement is extreme, and can't be addressed by changing the tank in most homegrow situations. You should level out the environment.

 

[cellardwellar420]

We need light, then temperature. After which comes EC pH and RH. RH and EC balance each other. So neither is more important than the other. Unless it's getting extreme. Your logs are rather unstable, which means that balance can't be found.

I'm not sure when you dipped to 20c, but I would only allow that at night. In the day, I would be wasting my time. Your max of 25c is my minimum. Under LED you should be targeting 28c. Though a couple of C either way, can favour one plant over another, we should consider our breeder found plants that work in their well dialed room.

I'm not sure that piping the dehu~ to the tent would be helpful. It's stat wouldn't be in the tent. There are a lot of variables between grow locations, and so the kit needed. Making advice difficult, without really knowing what's going on. 80% though, would require a high EC. Then 40% an EC about a third of that. All related to the extra water that would pass through the plant at that lower RH. The temp at these times would also effect transpiration, but that shift in EC requirement is extreme, and can't be addressed by changing the tank in most homegrow situations. You should level out the environment.

Ty for your well thought out answer! Will a heater dry out the air?

 

[cellardwellar420]

Or a HPS?

 

[Ca++]

Either might work. I would choose the HPS though, as it's radiant heat will reach the plants, even with gale force extraction. It's a more natural situation for the plants, to have the warmer buds, then top leaves. The other heaters, tend to warm air that just gets sucked out. Not adding any temperature gradient from top to bottom. I can't say a gradient is beneficial, but logically speaking, it probably is. Certainly any expenditure on heat, is wasted if just sucked up. This is why big greenhouses will keep HIDs for warming plants. Other radiant heat sources exist though.

Right now, my tent has lights in the top, plants in the bottom, and a bubble-wrap divider, laid over a horizontal net. It's like the bottom half is a greenhouse, and I have a sun above. It's a few C warmer, than if the bubble-wrap was missing. Also, I can control the RH better in that more sealed space.
This won't work for everyone.

 

[cellardwellar420]

Either might work. I would choose the HPS though, as it's radiant heat will reach the plants, even with gale force extraction. It's a more natural situation for the plants, to have the warmer buds, then top leaves. The other heaters, tend to warm air that just gets sucked out. Not adding any temperature gradient from top to bottom. I can't say a gradient is beneficial, but logically speaking, it probably is. Certainly any expenditure on heat, is wasted if just sucked up. This is why big greenhouses will keep HIDs for warming plants. Other radiant heat sources exist though.

Right now, my tent has lights in the top, plants in the bottom, and a bubble-wrap divider, laid over a horizontal net. It's like the bottom half is a greenhouse, and I have a sun above. It's a few C warmer, than if the bubble-wrap was missing. Also, I can control the RH better in that more sealed space.
This won't work for everyone.

Thanks man!

 

[cellardwellar420]

Either might work. I would choose the HPS though, as it's radiant heat will reach the plants, even with gale force extraction. It's a more natural situation for the plants, to have the warmer buds, then top leaves. The other heaters, tend to warm air that just gets sucked out. Not adding any temperature gradient from top to bottom. I can't say a gradient is beneficial, but logically speaking, it probably is. Certainly any expenditure on heat, is wasted if just sucked up. This is why big greenhouses will keep HIDs for warming plants. Other radiant heat sources exist though.

Right now, my tent has lights in the top, plants in the bottom, and a bubble-wrap divider, laid over a horizontal net. It's like the bottom half is a greenhouse, and I have a sun above. It's a few C warmer, than if the bubble-wrap was missing. Also, I can control the RH better in that more sealed space.
This won't work for everyone.

sounds advanced good that you found somethinfg that works.

But ive seen those heatermats now, you can get them in 120x50cm, thats something too but i agree about the heatradiation from a bulb

 

[Ca++]

Heat mats are often just for germination. They need to go on a hard flat surface, and not get disturbed too much. The black sheet type are generally found under fish tanks. You may find them under other pet enclosures where they are not pressed, but tend to wrinkle and de-laminate. They would be useless on a carpet with buckets on top, or such like.

I have worked cellars, but long ago. I had to keep the pots off the ground, and if I did it again, I would be laying insulation board down. Just having a good thermal barrier, is likely as good as trying to stop the cold with electricity. That foam board is good stuff, or just cheap old polystyrene. In either case, I would like to top it with a layer of ply. Sealed with a little paint, so it doesn't grow anything. I would avoid treated boards, as the off-gassing can be harmful

I sat on some of that board one cold winter, and had to get up a minute later. It was uncomfortably warm. It's very good. I was tanking out a cellar a few years back, intent on doing the walls with it. It's a bit of work, but makes the cellar a living space.

Tanking, is waterproofing. It's usually a concrete with some lube in it. The lube lets the particles interlock tighter. You buy 10L buckets, and just add water. It can help a cellar a lot.

 

[Ca++]

Seems like I could drop a pic or two here.


The bubble has helped me with training. Our plants don't grow strongly into interference. A training method that's hard to use, without wipers or such. Which is just messy. I think I see some effect here though. Just from sheeting. As I usually do. Maintaining early RH is the main goal, but temps are helped. I have the outside down to. That back left is a bit cooler I think, which showed a lot before the wrap was clipped on.

Generally it's a lot harder to decrease RH than increase it. The stats on most mobile units, ignore 10% swings, and may have 30 minute no-restart timers. There to improve motor life and the the plumbing, by lessening the number of start ups. Great for the dehu~ but bordering on useless for us.

Later I will drape duvets down the sides. I normally would of, but heat escaping the tent, and warming the bedroom, hasn't been a concern. My biggest move will be recovering heat from the exhaust. That white hose is actually getting cold air from the floor. I'm stood at the gap in the door, which serves as the rooms inlet. So it's coldest there. This cold is blown along the course of my extract ducting. Giving reason for heat energy to pass through the foil duct wall. From the warm extract, to the cooler air. I could improve this, by running the exhaust duct within another larger duct. Which I blow the cold down. I intend to go way beyond this though. I have the whole homes air movement in mind. I want to use exhaust heat, to warm the cold that comes in the building at ground level. Perhaps you also loose heat you could be recovering. There is a thread of sketches for cheap home ops and discussion about commercial heat recovery.

 

[cellardwellar420]

Seems like I could drop a pic or two here.
View attachment 19077840 View attachment 19077841 View attachment 19077842

The bubble has helped me with training. Our plants don't grow strongly into interference. A training method that's hard to use, without wipers or such. Which is just messy. I think I see some effect here though. Just from sheeting. As I usually do. Maintaining early RH is the main goal, but temps are helped. I have the outside down to. That back left is a bit cooler I think, which showed a lot before the wrap was clipped on.

Generally it's a lot harder to decrease RH than increase it. The stats on most mobile units, ignore 10% swings, and may have 30 minute no-restart timers. There to improve motor life and the the plumbing, by lessening the number of start ups. Great for the dehu~ but bordering on useless for us.

Later I will drape duvets down the sides. I normally would of, but heat escaping the tent, and warming the bedroom, hasn't been a concern. My biggest move will be recovering heat from the exhaust. That white hose is actually getting cold air from the floor. I'm stood at the gap in the door, which serves as the rooms inlet. So it's coldest there. This cold is blown along the course of my extract ducting. Giving reason for heat energy to pass through the foil duct wall. From the warm extract, to the cooler air. I could improve this, by running the exhaust duct within another larger duct. Which I blow the cold down. I intend to go way beyond this though. I have the whole homes air movement in mind. I want to use exhaust heat, to warm the cold that comes in the building at ground level. Perhaps you also loose heat you could be recovering. There is a thread of sketches for cheap home ops and discussion about commercial heat recovery.

I want to have like a vashroom, to have plants in white bathroompanel

With good drainage 3 spots, so i can hose everything down

 

[cellardwellar420]

I will use the xps insulation under the tent next time