DIY'ers come on in Shed build from scratch

[Hydropimp]

Ok guy i will be moving in the next couple of month maybe sooner.

So here it goes I would like to build a 16x16 shed in the backyard.

I have a huge piece of cement slab and there is a drain aswell.

I need help gathering materials like P.T WOOD, framing, electical, insulation and hvac and roofing ideas.

I am handy and will build everything from the floor up just need help and guidance on the build.

I will like to have a flowering space veg/clone and maybe tiny room for breeding.

I will be cooling with a boxed 2 ton window banger that has to be inside of the build. No a/c hanging out of the shed.

lights still up in the air depending how much i can cool with the window banger. Maybe 4-6k of light?

So everyone is welcome to drop some ideals and knowledge.

I would like to make a list of things to buy.

I have access to the property and can start to build.

I would like to at least have a 8*8 flowering room if possible.

So since this will be out doors I know I will need P.T wood

Does the whole outside part have to be P.T wood? i.e floor, walls and roof?

The cement slab is not leveled so we will need to start there.

I will be building alone with my chick.

 

[Hydropimp]

Do i need to use pressure treated wood for the exterior wall of the shed?

For the 16*16 size shed should i use P.T 2*6 or 2*4 to frame or non p.t?

 

[Hydropimp]

What can i use to fill gaps?

Like greats stuff but that will not off gas?

 

[Granger2]

Great Stuff does off gas. Silicone caulk is an alternative. Good luck. -granger

 

[Mikell]

I wouldn't frame with pressure treated, spend that money on the interior/insulation.

 

[shaggyballs]

Pressure treated for anything that touches concrete.(moisture)
Look for T-1-11 siding cheap, good look, weather resistant.
I would do all other in pine.
cold climate use 2x6 or 2x8 for insulation.
otherwise 2x4 is fine for walls...roof depends on pitch barn style is best.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

I would check with the code office to see if you need a permit for that size building first. Where I live I can go to 15X15 with out a permit.

 

[shaggyballs]

I second that!

 

[Hydropimp]

Great Stuff does off gas. Silicone caulk
is an alternative. Good luck. -granger

Will need a big bead. So just use multiple layers?

I wouldn't frame with pressure treated, spend that money on the interior/insulation.

I thought so just needed to be sure. And definitely i will insulate nicely

Pressure treated for anything that touches concrete.(moisture)
Look for T-1-11 siding cheap, good look, weather resistant.
I would do all other in pine.
cold climate use 2x6 or 2x8 for insulation.
otherwise 2x4 is fine for walls...roof depends on pitch barn style is best.

will look into that. thanks

I would check with the code office to see if you need a permit for that size building first. Where I live I can go to 15X15 with out a permit.

Good point


Thanks for everyone dropping in.

 

[DesertSmoke]

If your serious about keeping the entire A/C unit inside the shed I would highly recommend you figure out a vent of some sort to the outside to remove the warmer air from the unit. If you are planning on cooling the entire shed you definitely will need an exit somewhere for the hot air or you will be just adding to the electric bill and not make for a cool interior. There are many wall vents you can make or buy that will put the heated air outside the shed allowing you to have what you want for inside temps.

 

[DesertSmoke]

Forgot to add, if your area has strict codes on wiring up a new structure I would get a permit to add the electric service to the shed. All you need is for the meter reader or a noisy neighbor think they are getting one up on ya and call in a service not allowed, then when the inspector shows up your ,,,,well ya know about the creek without the paddle thingy

 

[Hydropimp]

Pressure treated for anything that touches concrete.(moisture)
Look for T-1-11 siding cheap, good look, weather resistant.
I would do all other in pine.
cold climate use 2x6 or 2x8 for insulation.
otherwise 2x4 is fine for walls...roof depends on pitch barn style is best.

Do i need a vapor barrier to line the p.t plywood?

I am thinking it will cost a pretty penny to build a new. And i have a 15*15 shed on the ground already and it has a slanted roof not a barn style 6/12 roof that i would like.

But the shed has to be over 10 years old.

 

[Hydropimp]

If your serious about keeping the entire A/C unit inside the shed I would highly recommend you figure out a vent of some sort to the outside to remove the warmer air from the unit. If you are planning on cooling the entire shed you definitely will need an exit somewhere for the hot air or you will be just adding to the electric bill and not make for a cool interior. There are many wall vents you can make or buy that will put the heated air outside the shed allowing you to have what you want for inside temps.

I have a window banger boxed upped. I have a window open with the hurricane shutter over the window blocking the view. This is my intake for the a/c. And exhaust through another window.

this will be my plan for the a/c in the shed. just need to figure out how to set it up. I have the shed with misc crap just waiting for the people to move out which is fam. Then i will have more space to envision the setup.

I just have to find out where to stick my 3 ton mini split and a 5 ton central a/c. Can't let that equipment get fucked up. I have some much shit i have collected over the years. That is why i wanted to build a new one.

So still up in the air about the build or just use the one on the ground and seal the hell out of it.

Neighbors are cool so should not have a problem with them.

And if I do build a new shed it will be up in two days. I would start early and take off of work to build as soon as the big box stores open so i can rent the nail gun and anything else i would need to rent. To make the build more efficient. I will buy everything a day or two before to not waste time and let people know what was going on.

Forgot to add, if your area has strict codes on wiring up a new structure I would get a permit to add the electric service to the shed. All you need is for the meter reader or a noisy neighbor think they are getting one up on ya and call in a service not allowed, then when the inspector shows up your ,,,,well ya know about the creek without the paddle thingy

will check in to this aswell..

 

[Hydropimp]

How about the concrete slab if it not level how would i go about it?

I will see if i can get the pics up tonight of the shed and the space.

 

[Hydropimp]

[The


The back of the shed's ply wood is rotten so would like to change it out.

What type of plywood to get to replace it with.

I will get more pic a we get it cleared out.

 

[Mikell]

Thin-set or whatever that self-leveling top coat is. Though now that I mention it, I think it's only for finished floor application. There must be a waterproof polishable substitute someone with actual construction experience could point out

No id'r on the plywood? Depends on application re: walls or roof, exposed or siding.

 

[noyd666]

marine grade tops for exterior exposure, dearer.

 

[queequeg152]

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=57904&pictureid=1353886&thumb=1"]View Image[The


The back of the shed's ply wood is rotten so would like to change it out.

What type of plywood to get to replace it with.

I will get more pic a we get it cleared out.

sounds fun.
before you replace any siding..With respect to insulation,
i would strongly recommend taking stock of what insulation needs you will have, verses what is accomplish able with the construction you have already in that shed.
reason being... if you want an r30 wall, you will never reach it with just 2x4 insulation batts... you will need to add 1-2inches of insulation sheathing onto the exterior. This being such a small space, its not a terribly hard thing to do.

also add a good barrier... depending on the climate this could be on the exterior or interior.

if you do elect to add insulation to the exterior, this will color what type of siding you can reasonably use. cheap as dirt vinyl lap siding is what i would recommend personally... regardless of what you elect to do with the insulation.
get a reasonable coil siding nailer, and you can side like 1000sq ft, alone, in a day easily.

along with insulation you should fastidiously air seal with foam, both the wall construction and roof.
dont even touch those dow foam cans... they are garbage and entirely wastefull. get a cheap 30 dollar foam application gun, 1 cleaning can, and one can of enerfoam or what ever foam you want to use.

structurally, in the rare case where your shed is framed properly, inspect for rot, loose members, pests, etc etc. decide if you want to retrofit in some structural connection pieces such as tie downs\hold downs or joist hangers etc.

plan a good location for your sub panel if you need one, make sure your main panel can take the additional branch circuit, decide if you want to bury or drop the electrical... any drop will require a post be sunk most likely.
a post is a good place to add on yard lighting if you decide you want it.

 

[Hydropimp]

sounds fun.
before you replace any siding..With respect to insulation,
i would strongly recommend taking stock of what insulation needs you will have, verses what is accomplish able with the construction you have already in that shed.
reason being... if you want an r30 wall, you will never reach it with just 2x4 insulation batts... you will need to add 1-2inches of insulation sheathing onto the exterior. This being such a small space, its not a terribly hard thing to do.

also add a good barrier... depending on the climate this could be on the exterior or interior.

if you do elect to add insulation to the exterior, this will color what type of siding you can reasonably use. cheap as dirt vinyl lap siding is what i would recommend personally... regardless of what you elect to do with the insulation.
get a reasonable coil siding nailer, and you can side like 1000sq ft, alone, in a day easily.

along with insulation you should fastidiously air seal with foam, both the wall construction and roof.
dont even touch those dow foam cans... they are garbage and entirely wastefull. get a cheap 30 dollar foam application gun, 1 cleaning can, and one can of enerfoam or what ever foam you want to use.

structurally, in the rare case where your shed is framed properly, inspect for rot, loose members, pests, etc etc. decide if you want to retrofit in some structural connection pieces such as tie downs\hold downs or joist hangers etc.

plan a good location for your sub panel if you need one, make sure your main panel can take the additional branch circuit, decide if you want to bury or drop the electrical... any drop will require a post be sunk most likely.
a post is a good place to add on yard lighting if you decide you want it.

Stick around will need you and the rest of the guys to make this right it has to be insulated to the t.

It will get hot here

IT WILL take a couple of days to get there things out and have a open space

 

[Hydropimp]

Am back.

be patient with me I don't visit the spot all the time because of work.



Will be back tomorrow to clean her out some more.