I did see some pollen. I was squishing pods and open flowers all over creation a few days ago and definitely had some bursts of pollen clouds. I also have a good bit of bright red hairs on most of the ladies already.
Thank you very much @Hammerhead
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Tutorial DIY STS Mixing/Using Guide for Feminized Pollen/Seeds R.C.Clarke Method as Base
- Thread starter Douglas.Curtis
- Start date
Thank you very much @Hammerhead
Hey folk's, I'm only replying so I can find this post in future.
moose/MI
Well-known member
You can go to the top of the page and choose watch.
It keeps them all under 1 tab
martani
Well-known member
Hi everyone! Very interesting 3D, thanks!!
I have a question, maybe a stupid one! hehe
I'm about to do STS for the first time, I've only ever used CS.
but reading a bit here, I saw that you use a different concentration than the recipe on the first page...
I make solution A using 5g of silver nitrite, solution B with 2.5g of sodium thiosulfate, but when mixing them, don't use 50ml for each, right? How much should I take?
sorry but my English is terrible, so I also tried with a translator, but it's difficult! haha
I have a question, maybe a stupid one! hehe
I'm about to do STS for the first time, I've only ever used CS.
but reading a bit here, I saw that you use a different concentration than the recipe on the first page...
I make solution A using 5g of silver nitrite, solution B with 2.5g of sodium thiosulfate, but when mixing them, don't use 50ml for each, right? How much should I take?
sorry but my English is terrible, so I also tried with a translator, but it's difficult! haha
Attachments
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Translator is working fine 
I strongly recommend using multiple clones, with multiple spray schedules/strengths, so you can find what works the first time.
I strongly recommend using multiple clones, with multiple spray schedules/strengths, so you can find what works the first time.
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Mix A and B 50/50 as normal.
Mix 1 part STS to between 7 and 9 parts distilled water.
9 is weaker, 7 is stronger.
Mix 1 part STS to between 7 and 9 parts distilled water.
9 is weaker, 7 is stronger.
martani
Well-known member
OK, thanks a lot!!
so 150ml of solution A and 150ml of solution B, right?
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
That will work fine, creating 300ml of concentrated STS.
Take 100ml of the concentrate, and add it to between 700 and 900ml of distilled water for a 1:7 - 1:9 solution.
CharlesU Farley
Well-known member
I'd have to disagree with this point myself, but in the short time I've been active here, your posts are based mostly on experience and science, so I appreciate them.
I've always learned _more_ from people who disagree with me, than those who agree with me.
I'm on the spectrum and I've been training a _long_ time now.
martani
Well-known member
thank you so much!!That will work fine, creating 300ml of concentrated STS.
Take 100ml of the concentrate, and add it to between 700 and 900ml of distilled water for a 1:7 - 1:9 solution.
other thing, here, the .5g means 5g right? or did you miss a number before the point?
so as not to do anything stupid!
@Douglas.Curtis, it's 0,5g correct? As this is what I use. If so could you maybe edit your recipe in the op post as there's indeed noted .5g ? Which might be confusing or misread.
Last edited:
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Fixed
Thank you OP for this super awesome thread as I'd successfully reversed a clone before.
Now I have a new project reversing different clones/strains and have some questions about timing the flowering of the sprayed clones (donor) and the pollinated clones (receivers).
So I have several clones of the same and other strains (trying to reverse several strains.) I would like to have the pollen collected and ready to pollinate the receiving clones without freezing the pollen as that has a good chance of not working. I know there's instruction on how to save pollen but I would like to use fresh pollen. Or do you think the pollen saving instruction is foolproof and the frozen pollen will always work?
From my research, the sprayed clones will produce male balls and the pollen be ready to be collected in about 3-4 weeks after flip. Is this true?
Also, the receiving clones flowers will be ready to be pollinated in about 3-4 weeks after flip. Is this true?
Additionally, would it be ok to pollinate the receiving clones flower beyond the 3-4 weeks period after flip? Say on week 5 or 6, and all I have to do is just to keep the pollinated clones running longer than the usual flowering period in order to ensure the seeds would mature. Am I correct in this assumption?
So would you say, flip the sprayed clones about 1 week before flipping the receiving clones?
Thank you!
Now I have a new project reversing different clones/strains and have some questions about timing the flowering of the sprayed clones (donor) and the pollinated clones (receivers).
So I have several clones of the same and other strains (trying to reverse several strains.) I would like to have the pollen collected and ready to pollinate the receiving clones without freezing the pollen as that has a good chance of not working. I know there's instruction on how to save pollen but I would like to use fresh pollen. Or do you think the pollen saving instruction is foolproof and the frozen pollen will always work?
From my research, the sprayed clones will produce male balls and the pollen be ready to be collected in about 3-4 weeks after flip. Is this true?
Also, the receiving clones flowers will be ready to be pollinated in about 3-4 weeks after flip. Is this true?
Additionally, would it be ok to pollinate the receiving clones flower beyond the 3-4 weeks period after flip? Say on week 5 or 6, and all I have to do is just to keep the pollinated clones running longer than the usual flowering period in order to ensure the seeds would mature. Am I correct in this assumption?
So would you say, flip the sprayed clones about 1 week before flipping the receiving clones?
Thank you!
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Thank you for the kind words, and I'm glad the information I've gathered here was helpful.
Stable, long term freezable pollen is possible through proper drying. If you're unsure, you can split the pollen in 2 or more sets of small packets. Freeze some and put others in the fridge in a sealed jar with oven dried rice. This will give you both a frozen test, and also a set of packets which will last several months in the fridge (at least).
Either way, the quick and complete drying of the pollen is what needs to happen first for best results.
Yes, the males begin dropping pollen very quickly.
Yes, most 8-11 week strains have pistils ready to catch pollen at 4 weeks. Longer flowering strains can take up to many weeks longer.
As long as you have a bare minimum of 4 weeks of plant life left yes, you can pollinate them. Much preferred is 5 weeks or more for full maturity and health. Ideally you want the seeds to be nearly falling off the plant on their own, and not all plants will stay alive for weeks after their usual chop date.
One to two weeks before, as long as you're ready to collect and dry along the way, should give you a wide window of opportunity. Collect and dry the pollen as it begins dropping. Pollinate the females when they have at least 5 weeks of life left.
You're entirely welcome.
