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Tutorial DIY STS Mixing/Using Guide for Feminized Pollen/Seeds R.C.Clarke Method as Base
- Thread starter Douglas.Curtis
- Start date
Since I have a separate plant to reverse and host seed I'm thinking I'll put the big mom in 7 days after.
My GB bx5 finishes in 9 weeks.
I think if I stop spraying around 14-17 days maybe pollen will drop by day 28 or 30 then that big flower growth around 35 to 42 days would be the time for major pollen like yours. The mom would be 28 to 35 days over that time.
That would be spray on day 7,12 and 17.
Probably over thinking it but it doesn't seem like I should be spraying past 21 you think on this 9 weeker? In other words stop around first balls and let flowers form not keep spraying until there are giant clusters.
My GB bx5 finishes in 9 weeks.
I think if I stop spraying around 14-17 days maybe pollen will drop by day 28 or 30 then that big flower growth around 35 to 42 days would be the time for major pollen like yours. The mom would be 28 to 35 days over that time.
That would be spray on day 7,12 and 17.
Probably over thinking it but it doesn't seem like I should be spraying past 21 you think on this 9 weeker? In other words stop around first balls and let flowers form not keep spraying until there are giant clusters.
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I find it hard to say. I don't know your plant, I don't know your specific situation and I don't know that I fully understand you about when you plan on start spraying, how old and big it is and the frequency. (FYI, I'm non-english).
Also take in mind that pollen sacs need several weeks too to develop and mature.
A plant that flowers 9 weeks can easily go an additional month or more when you are letting seeds mature and you're not growing for seedless. It can continue on growing for quite a while beyond the typical seedless harvest point before dying.
As a tip, why don't you practice different spraying regimes on the same plant? Treat one branch in a certain way and treat another branch in a different way. Compare the results.
Maybe if you like you could document your experiment here. Do a little log. It might help future people too even if it's not a successful experiment in the end.
Also take in mind that pollen sacs need several weeks too to develop and mature.
A plant that flowers 9 weeks can easily go an additional month or more when you are letting seeds mature and you're not growing for seedless. It can continue on growing for quite a while beyond the typical seedless harvest point before dying.
As a tip, why don't you practice different spraying regimes on the same plant? Treat one branch in a certain way and treat another branch in a different way. Compare the results.
Maybe if you like you could document your experiment here. Do a little log. It might help future people too even if it's not a successful experiment in the end.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
I don't know if anyone mentioned this so...
After a few years making seed, I have a pretty good way to clean my seeds, but there's always room for improvement right?
Once you collect your seeds, you still have to sort the mature from immature. That's to say, get rid of the pale immature seeds. It's not a big issue for only a few hundred seeds, but with thousands, it's yet another task this lazy stoner doesn't like to do.
If possible, grow your mother in one room. She should self seed and you will get a mix of mature and immature seeds.
If you want to pollinate another girl, move it to the room/tent at peak pollen production for a couple days. Give the mom a good shake, then move the target plant out to make sure she doesn't get any more pollen as more white hairs appear. This way most seeds on the target plant will mature at the same rate and will reduce pale immature seed production. Of course, you want a lot of white hairs when you do this.
As for pollinating in the wild, I wonder if I can "spray" pollen so I can walk in, give the plant a couple shots, and walk out. Screw this paint brush shit.
Anyone know if adding pollen to water in a hand sprayer would keep pollen viable?
After a few years making seed, I have a pretty good way to clean my seeds, but there's always room for improvement right?
Once you collect your seeds, you still have to sort the mature from immature. That's to say, get rid of the pale immature seeds. It's not a big issue for only a few hundred seeds, but with thousands, it's yet another task this lazy stoner doesn't like to do.
If possible, grow your mother in one room. She should self seed and you will get a mix of mature and immature seeds.
If you want to pollinate another girl, move it to the room/tent at peak pollen production for a couple days. Give the mom a good shake, then move the target plant out to make sure she doesn't get any more pollen as more white hairs appear. This way most seeds on the target plant will mature at the same rate and will reduce pale immature seed production. Of course, you want a lot of white hairs when you do this.
As for pollinating in the wild, I wonder if I can "spray" pollen so I can walk in, give the plant a couple shots, and walk out. Screw this paint brush shit.
Anyone know if adding pollen to water in a hand sprayer would keep pollen viable?
Don't mix pollen with water. It will make the pollen sprout and render it useless.
Check out this thread, I have posted several pictures and a video about water and pollen for the exact same question if this could be done for outdoor pollination.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8920907
To 'spray' pollen. Have you ever thought about using a powder blower? It's used in the garden to disperse powders also barbers use small ones to disperse talc powder. I haven't bought one because I'm a cheapskate. But I think it might work. Powder is powder no?
Check out this thread, I have posted several pictures and a video about water and pollen for the exact same question if this could be done for outdoor pollination.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8920907
To 'spray' pollen. Have you ever thought about using a powder blower? It's used in the garden to disperse powders also barbers use small ones to disperse talc powder. I haven't bought one because I'm a cheapskate. But I think it might work. Powder is powder no?
Attachments
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Yes. I cut it 4 to one. So I have lots.
But you really only need a bit with this. It's not like you're dusting for earwigs. lol
But you really only need a bit with this. It's not like you're dusting for earwigs. lol
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Yes, but as you've seen in here, once a week for 3 weeks works as well.
When I go to spray the 3rd time I usually see pollen sacs starting. I definitely stop once I do see them forming.
Freakazoid44
Active member
Giving up on the first plant
Giving up on the first plant
Not much change in the plant. Collected a bigger haul of the flower pods, not seeing any pollen. I figured I'd run this batch through the strainer, dust a couple flowers, move this plant to a different closet and hope for the best.
Things looked pretty much the same after rubbing it through the strainer..... except my finger.....
Look like we got a little pollen after all. There are still some more flower pods on there, so I'll collect some more next week and save that pollen for another time. The female flowers on that plant already started turning brown, because they're at the normal harvest time for that strain. I dusted a few small buds, harvested the rest, and if it looks like some seeds develop I'll keep that plant going for another month or two. I'll save the rest of my flour-diluted pollen from this batch and the remaining pods on the plant and I'll go for seeds next time I grow that variety.
Semi-successful, in spite of myself. Thanks to everyone for the help.
My C99 gets its 5-day pre-spray tomorrow. I expect much more reliable results for that plant.
Giving up on the first plant
Not much change in the plant. Collected a bigger haul of the flower pods, not seeing any pollen. I figured I'd run this batch through the strainer, dust a couple flowers, move this plant to a different closet and hope for the best.
Things looked pretty much the same after rubbing it through the strainer..... except my finger.....
Look like we got a little pollen after all. There are still some more flower pods on there, so I'll collect some more next week and save that pollen for another time. The female flowers on that plant already started turning brown, because they're at the normal harvest time for that strain. I dusted a few small buds, harvested the rest, and if it looks like some seeds develop I'll keep that plant going for another month or two. I'll save the rest of my flour-diluted pollen from this batch and the remaining pods on the plant and I'll go for seeds next time I grow that variety.
Semi-successful, in spite of myself. Thanks to everyone for the help.
My C99 gets its 5-day pre-spray tomorrow. I expect much more reliable results for that plant.
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G
GYOweed
For us small timers who suck at cloning and dont have time n space what about a 75 Micron Nylon Mesh bag?
MMJ Pollen is 25-30 microns but we're not pushing anything through and u can double it anyway.
Then when you see balls the branch covered should still see light and get air.
You can stick a paint brush in there if you wanna make S1s or just leave it and cut the whole thing when it's ready. No more needing to clone or pollinate more than you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DCGDWZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK0YZD7QTKE87&psc=1
thoughts?
MMJ Pollen is 25-30 microns but we're not pushing anything through and u can double it anyway.
Then when you see balls the branch covered should still see light and get air.
You can stick a paint brush in there if you wanna make S1s or just leave it and cut the whole thing when it's ready. No more needing to clone or pollinate more than you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DCGDWZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK0YZD7QTKE87&psc=1
thoughts?
gorilla ganja
Well-known member
I think the early applications are important for a quick reversal. I work with Autoflowers a lot and start applying STS when they first show sex.
The autos show and then they are full-blown into flower so they develop quite a few female flowers before I can see any male pods show through. In my mind, this slows the reversal down much the same as taking clones when in flower. Adds a week or so if they are flowering female before they can develop the male sex organs.
By applying STS before flowering is initiated ethylene production is stopped early in the flower cycle less female flowers form and less confusion for the plant.
Just a theory based on what I have seen from reversing a few times.
Peace GG
Edit* nevermind, forum recipe seems totally diff than sigma. Trying to find the mM of forum strength.
Doesn't appear to be 1:4?
.5 silver to 500 ml
2.5 sodium thio anhydrous to 500 ml
Sodium stock appears to be roughly .0316M and Silver stock .0058M?
Is my math off anyone?
So is the 100 ml stock sts forum solution is what concentration?
Is it .0374 M ???
Silver nitrate 169.87 molar mass
Sodium thio anhydrous 158.11
Trying to figure it out so I can compare mM of the forum and all of the anecdotal stories of dilution rates and see where they fall compared to.3mM to 3mM hemp reversal study.
Doesn't appear to be 1:4?
.5 silver to 500 ml
2.5 sodium thio anhydrous to 500 ml
Sodium stock appears to be roughly .0316M and Silver stock .0058M?
Is my math off anyone?
So is the 100 ml stock sts forum solution is what concentration?
Is it .0374 M ???
Silver nitrate 169.87 molar mass
Sodium thio anhydrous 158.11
Trying to figure it out so I can compare mM of the forum and all of the anecdotal stories of dilution rates and see where they fall compared to.3mM to 3mM hemp reversal study.
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brickweeder
Well-known member
I prefer the sigma formula rather than the robt clarke/curtis formula because it makes a nice even .02M STS solution, which is very easy to dilute to your desired concentration. It's much simpler to get to a .01M or .005M solution starting from .02M than starting from .0374 M or whatever the clarke formula calcs out to be.
I think sigma uses the 4:1 silver to thiosulfate because silver thiosulfate is at max equilibrium at that ratio, but 5:1 works well too.
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I did notice a reaction while making sigma stock sts. Slight brownish tinge that seemed to go away as I began stirring faster. And staining from drops.
Didnt get that mixing Clark's or anecdotally the "forum" recipe.
Both resulted in a clear solution with a slight blueish tinge if it catches the light right.
Didnt get that mixing Clark's or anecdotally the "forum" recipe.
Both resulted in a clear solution with a slight blueish tinge if it catches the light right.
My 1:9 turned brownish this time it was outside the tent in the mostly dark. Last time not sure. The stock solutions are both still clear and there is a light leak in that storage.
