Diy steel hoop house.

[CrushnYuba]

I'm not sure what you mean but i don't think Mylar will help you. How close to the house is it? If it's right under it's shade, nothing will change that

 

[gaiusmarius]

i noticed you have your water filter installed upside down. they work better when the intake and output are at the top, as the dirt particles tend to sink, so the filter stays efficient longer.

 

[Mengsk]

Get the blue greenhouse clips with rounded edges instead of the sharp cut ones if you can.

The automated dep looks simple but copying the design and actually building and installing one might be more challenging than it looks.

 

[Zeez]

Placing the greenhouse near the the house will only loose the late afternoon sun. The reflective material on the non-sun side, I'm thinking along the lines of a grow tent where light gets bounced back where the plants are. The other reason is that the light rep setup would only be needed on one side.

This is the planning and learning stage. The greenhouse could go perpendicular to the house if the one side thing turns out to be a bad idea.

 

[CrushnYuba]

Draw a picture of the greenhouse, house and the sun arc to visualize. You will only lose mid day sun with Mylar. Unless I'm not understanding.

Mengsk: here's a picture of a hinge and arm my friend built based off the way i do it. He should have used a wider u bracket instead of 2 L brackets so close together to allow play. It does work though. It's really basic and easy. You see how the arm is 2 pipes? This allows the rolling pin to conform to the greenhouse easily no matter the shape. It also makes it so you don't have to be even close to exact with the length of your arm. If the greenhouse is 10 feet tall, sleeve a 7ft pipe inside a 7ft pipe. It can telescope to be between 7 and 13ish ft

 

[Zeez]

The wiggle wire channels, do they bend enough to attach to the end hoops?

One more if you don't mind, I'm thinking about burying 15/8" four feet down with some concrete. Do you see a problem having these going 18" above the ground, sleeved and bolted, to raise the hoops?

Appreciate all the help and info.

 

[flyontoast]

The wiggle wire channels, do they bend enough to attach to the end hoops?

One more if you don't mind, I'm thinking about burying 15/8" four feet down with some concrete. Do you see a problem having these going 18" above the ground, sleeved and bolted, to raise the hoops?

Appreciate all the help and info.

4ft cement footings seems excessive. In most regions of Canada that get hard frosts 3ft is considered standard for a greenhouse. Unless you are trying to build on pure sand, in which case you have to do wider holes (16" wide piers) rather than deeper.

If you do plan on using that much concrete, I'm assuming you'll be bringing in a cement truck, in which case you can do a "continuous foundation". You'd only have to make a 1ft deep trench and end up with a solid barrier separating the inside of the greenhouse from the outside. In most cases it's easier to dig a 12" deep with 8" sill, 8" wide trench than to auger. I know a greenhouse specialist who did the trench techniques last year for his tomato greenhouse and loved it. Way less labour intense and you don't get weeds creeping in or surface water flooding.



I took those numbers from the Harnois Greenhouse manual.

 

[Zeez]

I'm thinking more like footings with a half bag of quickcrete in a 6" auger holes 4' deep. That should anchor it pretty well. I'm planning a small 12x16 for a 12 plant grow. 4' is the code for footings here.

4ft cement footings seems excessive. In most regions of Canada that get hard frosts 3ft is considered standard for a greenhouse. Unless you are trying to build on pure sand, in which case you have to do wider holes (16" wide piers) rather than deeper.

If you do plan on using that much concrete, I'm assuming you'll be bringing in a cement truck, in which case you can do a "continuous foundation". You'd only have to make a 1ft deep trench and end up with a solid barrier separating the inside of the greenhouse from the outside. In most cases it's easier to dig a 12" deep with 8" sill, 8" wide trench than to auger. I know a greenhouse specialist who did the trench techniques last year for his tomato greenhouse and loved it. Way less labour intense and you don't get weeds creeping in or surface water flooding.



I took those numbers from the Harnois Greenhouse manual.

 

[CrushnYuba]

i noticed you have your water filter installed upside down. they work better when the intake and output are at the top, as the dirt particles tend to sink, so the filter stays efficient longer.

What water filter are you referring to? I don't think There are any water filters shown in those pictures. That blue thing is a fertilizer doser and it's right side up.

 

[Rico _El_Guapo]

I'm thinking more like footings with a half bag of quickcrete in a 6" auger holes 4' deep. That should anchor it pretty well. I'm planning a small 12x16 for a 12 plant grow. 4' is the code for footings here.

If code allows, check out foundation screws, I think one of the brands is pilex or something. You just screw them in with a heavy duty hammer drill, save some dry time and possibly a lot of labor

 

[redlaser]

Wiggle wire channel has no bend to it, would need to cut it into short lengths and attach those to an end wall

 

[gaiusmarius]

What water filter are you referring to? I don't think There are any water filters shown in those pictures. That blue thing is a fertilizer doser and it's right side up.

oh i see, looks a bit like the housing for some kind of particle filter to stop the clogging of irrigation lines. so that thing dispense fert to the water? powder ferts? what about the ph? is it mechanical or computerized? interesting stuff.

 

[Zeez]

Wiggle wire channel has no bend to it, would need to cut it into short lengths and attach those to an end wall

If code allows, check out foundation screws, I think one of the brands is pilex or something. You just screw them in with a heavy duty hammer drill, save some dry time and possibly a lot of labor

Appreciate the help. I had one of those tent type garages, kind of like a hoop house, go airborne and end up in the trees, What a mess! I'm not too hung upon code but finally learned that overkill is my friend.

If the wiggle wire channels don't bend to the end hoops, Is it better to go with the cover clips on the ends and use wiggle wire on the base boards?

 

[flyontoast]

Appreciate the help. I had one of those tent type garages, kind of like a hoop house, go airborne and end up in the trees, What a mess! I'm not too hung upon code but finally learned that overkill is my friend.

This happened about 2 weeks ago in a wind storm. Was using one of those greenhouse/car canopy to temporarily protect some equipment and it flew over 200ft to find the tomato house...

 

[CrushnYuba]

That's not true. The channel bends really easily to the hoops. I have channel on all my end hoops.

You can just concrete the end hoop posts and a few others, depending on what you're of ground you have, you don't really need to concrete at all. You can just bang the posts into the ground and the wood greenhouse base screws to it. The base will stop the posts from sinking. Both the greenhouses shown in this thread have no concrete and haven't moved an inch years later.

But it depends what your ground is like

 

[Zeez]

That really sucks. Difficult to fix this time of year. My brother had one end up on the neighbors roof. The neighbor was all pissed off. It still makes me laugh every time I think about it.

This happened about 2 weeks ago in a wind storm. Was using one of those greenhouse/car canopy to temporarily protect some equipment and it flew over 200ft to find the tomato house...
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=78986&pictureid=1911111&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=78986&pictureid=1911110&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

 

[Rico _El_Guapo]

So what gives on anchoring the build.

Frost line is 4’, on average so that’s the outcome?

I’d strongly recommend the screwdriver post method before anything else,

As posted earlier you don’t want to have some jimmy rigged ASAP structure protecting things

If you and flyontoast could organize something that would be epic

 

[CrushnYuba]

Rico: don't overthink anchoring. If you don't use concrete, you don't need to worry about frost line. If you just use steel pipe driven into the ground a couple feet there is no issue. Then you attach each hoop to the pipe.
Steel pipe can't heave from frost because it's smooth. Concrete heaves because it's rough and expanding and contracting soil can grab on to it.

 

[flyontoast]

So what gives on anchoring the build.

Frost line is 4’, on average so that’s the outcome?

I’d strongly recommend the screwdriver post method before anything else,

As posted earlier you don’t want to have some jimmy rigged ASAP structure protecting things

If you and flyontoast could organize something that would be epic

If you did go concrete, here are the recommendations from Harnois. They are a pre-green rush GH company that is extremely well respected in Canada.
I'm actually setting up a new temporary nursery for the veggie farm, only about 18x20ft, and I'll look into those screws since I don't want to pour concrete for a temp structure, but as show before, I can't have another GH blowing away lol.

 

[CrushnYuba]

I promise of you drive the posts into the ground, like i showed above and bolt it through the hoop, ground post and wood, there is no amount of wind that will pull it up other then a hurricane.

60mph winds won't even begin to do anything to it. I have had greenhouses sitting on mountain tops that get 60mph winds every year.. Each hoop bolted to a post that is 3 feet in the ground on both sides... What is going to pull that up?