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Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?

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K

k33ftr33z

Member
k1k1 said:
Bonjour ;)

merci pour vos efforts mais la traduction Google n'est pas cohérente car elle me parle de ventilateur et d'argent pour les serveurs LOL

Je voudrais savoir exactement quelles feuilles je doit
enlever et a quel moment..

Je voudrais aussi savoir quelles feuilles il ne faut surtout pas enlever

merci d'avance mes amis

k1k1
Click to expand...

Bonjour k1k1,

Effeuillage devrait débuter en état de la végétation afin d'encourager les branches et le resserrement structure. Continuer à supprimer les feuilles quand l'ombrage est excessive. L'objectif est toujours d'exposer les points de croissance à plus de lumière en enlevant les feuilles ombrage.

J'espère que cette traduction est logique.
 
K

k33ftr33z

Member
Fat J said:
Ok... defoliated for the last time this round... wanted 2 take more off, but i was takin so much mass off them... i left the lower canopy, but opened up nicely.

Before:

After:


Leaf:


Edit: Should I take more off...? never did this in bloom b4.
Click to expand...

Good job so far. The after pics still reveal plenty of shaders. Go at your own pace but I would remove anything that is easy to get at with the thumb and forefinger.
 
Fat J

Fat J

Member
all of em, huh? im just scared about shock, your ladies never pushed any nanners or anything weird after df right? always been scared to prune after stretch, but they dont seem to mind when u only take leaves...? theres 28 ladies in there, and I'm at almost 4 weeks 12/12. u think i shoud take more? god im being a pussy...
 
K

k1k1

Member
k33ftr33z said:
Bonjour k1k1,

Effeuillage devrait débuter en état de la végétation afin d'encourager les branches et le resserrement structure. Continuer à supprimer les feuilles quand l'ombrage est excessive. L'objectif est toujours d'exposer les points de croissance à plus de lumière en enlevant les feuilles ombrage.

J'espère que cette traduction est logique.
Click to expand...

merci de ta réponse j'ai bien compris ce dont tu parlais....

tu ne fait pas de difference entre les differentes feuilles??tu enleve n'importe lesquelles pour peu qu'elles fassent de l'ombre??

K1K1
 
P

Puffster

Member
so how would this apply for outdoor? I Got about 20+ plants outdoor in 1m2 holes (two holes, 20+ fems in each) and I have already lollipop pruned them (bare stalk about 30-40cm up) they sortof grew natural in this pattern since they were spaced so close (about 50 plants in each hole until i removed hermies\males)

could I still gain something by removing some of the fanleaves? They are really bushy on top but most are forming single colas with little or no latteral branching...still the fans are touching eachother and almost get intertwined.

advice appreciated.
 
Dave Coulier

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Disciple, if you had been more clear and detailed what you meant earlier about wet/dry cycles, and large/small containers, much confusion and wasted time would have been avoided.

Whenever I heard anyone bring up wet/dry cycles on mj forums, what they typically mean is a wet/dry(to the point of wilting) cycle. There is a tendency for people to think the medium needs to become quite dried out so as to "promote the roots searching for water." I incorrectly assumed this is what you meant because of your low post count, and is why I said I disagreed with you.

Im also glad you went into greater detail about the small/large pots. I incorrectly thought you meant tiny pots could yield as well as larger pots when both plants are well cared for and in ideal conditions. Obviously thats not what you meant. Im glad we've gotten alot of confusion cleared up.
 
G

Guest 107167

I don't have the patience to look through all that thread. Is there any side by side test with defoliation method and letting to grow naturally?
 
ibjamming

ibjamming

Active member
Veteran
Dave Coulier said:
Disciple, if you had been more clear and detailed what you meant earlier about wet/dry cycles, and large/small containers, much confusion and wasted time would have been avoided.

Whenever I heard anyone bring up wet/dry cycles on mj forums, what they typically mean is a wet/dry(to the point of wilting) cycle. There is a tendency for people to think the medium needs to become quite dried out so as to "promote the roots searching for water." I incorrectly assumed this is what you meant because of your low post count, and is why I said I disagreed with you.

Im also glad you went into greater detail about the small/large pots. I incorrectly thought you meant tiny pots could yield as well as larger pots when both plants are well cared for and in ideal conditions. Obviously thats not what you meant. Im glad we've gotten alot of confusion cleared up.
Click to expand...

Dave,

Don't judge a book by it's cover...he's been growing and knows more than an average 26 post poster...he's new here perhaps...but not new to the game. I gave him some rep for that answer to you.

No no no...don't let it go to wilt...THAT is the problem people get into who are afraid to over water. They let it get TOO dry and the root hairs die, only to get stuck sitting in some water logged soil for too long. You MUST find that balance..."dry" but not dried out.

The roots search because they're growing...just like it's growing above...not to specifically "search" for water. I think you understand that? Don't let it get too dry...but don't let it stay too wet. A lot of people kill or stunt their plants with too severe a wet/dry cycle.

Ability to uptake water/nutrients is the limiting factor to a plants size. You "could" grow a huge plant in a cup IF you could get the roots packed in there perfectly and kept them bathed with the perfect nute/oxygen mixture. The roots are the mouth of the plant...they take in food and water...if the mouth is too small, the plant can't get as big...it can't get any more food/water to support a bigger plant...it get's pot bound and stops growing. That's how pot size determines plant size. If you want 8ft trees...you need 100-200 gallon pots. Otherwise, you'd have to keep a nutrient solution going constantly and you'd now be growing hydroponically...so you CAN get a bigger yield from a smaller pot IF you change your growing technique.

But yes...bottom line, I agree with deciple, a new grower has no business trying defoliation on a first or the first few grows. Get your chops first...then you can get fancy. Get a yield before you go for yield...does that make sense?

I'm not accusing you of being a new grower...I'm not saying this isn't for you...I'm just reiterating what deciple said and agreeing with it. And, I wanted to be sure you were straight about when to water.

Good luck!
 
Dave Coulier

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
ibjamming said:
Dave,

Don't judge a book by it's cover...he's been growing and knows more than an average 26 post poster...he's new here perhaps...but not new to the game. I gave him some rep for that answer to you.

No no no...don't let it go to wilt...THAT is the problem people get into who are afraid to over water. They let it get TOO dry and the root hairs die, only to get stuck sitting in some water logged soil for too long. You MUST find that balance..."dry" but not dried out.

The roots search because they're growing...just like it's growing above...not to specifically "search" for water. I think you understand that? Don't let it get too dry...but don't let it stay too wet. A lot of people kill or stunt their plants with too severe a wet/dry cycle.

Ability to uptake water/nutrients is the limiting factor to a plants size. You "could" grow a huge plant in a cup IF you could get the roots packed in there perfectly and kept them bathed with the perfect nute/oxygen mixture. The roots are the mouth of the plant...they take in food and water...if the mouth is too small, the plant can't get as big...it can't get any more food/water to support a bigger plant...it get's pot bound and stops growing. That's how pot size determines plant size. If you want 8ft trees...you need 100-200 gallon pots. Otherwise, you'd have to keep a nutrient solution going constantly and you'd now be growing hydroponically...so you CAN get a bigger yield from a smaller pot IF you change your growing technique.

But yes...bottom line, I agree with deciple, a new grower has no business trying defoliation on a first or the first few grows. Get your chops first...then you can get fancy. Get a yield before you go for yield...does that make sense?

I'm not accusing you of being a new grower...I'm not saying this isn't for you...I'm just reiterating what deciple said and agreeing with it. And, I wanted to be sure you were straight about when to water.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I definitely misjudged him. After his last post, I realize he knows what he is doing. :).

I try to never let my ladies get to the wilting stage. I strive to maintain an adequate moisture level for them, but sometimes I fail. Not too wet, nor too dry, while using soil less media that has an adequate level of air porosity.

Much of what Disciple posted about was already common knowledge to me, but I still appreciate his post, as it contains lots of great info for the beginning grower, and more advanced ones.

We got off on the wrong foot thanks to confusion on my part.

If he would still respond to me, Id love to know what his thoughts are on temperatures affecting bud density. Maybe we can get some more good info from him in here.
 
K

k33ftr33z

Member
Jürarrac said:
I don't have the patience to look through all that thread. Is there any side by side test with defoliation method and letting to grow naturally?
Click to expand...

Side by sides have been requested repeatedly. There is little to be accomplished from them. If you are looking for proof before embarking on defoliating you won't find any. Several very experienced growers posting have been doing this for years and have determined that the yield is better. This is accomplished by encouraging tighter nodes more sites and better lighting to all of it. The post following yours shows LifeLess' results, my albums show more examples. This site is filled with examples of leafy specimens. The difference is density, both in the bud development and number of buds. You will need to get in the mood and experiment yourself and see if the results appeal to your method.
 
K

k33ftr33z

Member
k1k1 said:
merci de ta réponse j'ai bien compris ce dont tu parlais....

tu ne fait pas de difference entre les differentes feuilles??tu enleve n'importe lesquelles pour peu qu'elles fassent de l'ombre??

K1K1
Click to expand...

Les feuilles ne sont pas nécessaires. Les feuilles de l 'ombre de réduire la lumière à fleurs. Les feuilles sont retirés à tous les stades. Cette méthode provoque des plantes d'avoir un tableau plus dense de fleurs.
 
S

Sir_Nugget

I think why this works is because when you deleaf, you increase the surface area of the plant getting hammered with light, which increases the transpiration rate of the plant (which is what matters the most).. notice after you defoliate how much water the plant absorbs, much more than if one were to leave the leafs on... increased transpiration rate = increased growth rate

increase transpiration rate by increasing surface area of plant receiving direct light.. so to increase growth rate one should defoliate periodically
 
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