Creeper is creeping again.

[Creeperpark]

I'm going to get a little serious for a minute.
I have found that every garden can be a teacher if one asks questions and is determined to find the answers. Rather than taking a chance with damaging the valuable female plants one can use the males or extra females to do controlled experiments and learn from them in every garden. If one experiments with every garden using extra plants, one can advance into advanced horticulture where one that doesn't will stay the same. There is no failure using this strategy there is only learning what works and what doesn’t with every garden.

 

[Creeperpark]

As an example, the two males I transferred to outdoors under a 12/12 photoperiod are being used in an experiment using high-EC tap water. The starting tap water EC is 490 ppm with a pH of 8.6 before adding anything. Using this method, I had to raise the nutrient content extremely high to overcome the excess tap water pH and high EC. The ppm is in the 800s to make the tap water work. (photo of the males) below.

In another experiment using a different plant in the extra garden, I do not allow discharge. I only used water nutrients starting at 7.1 pH or above with a low ppm of only 290 counting cal mag carbonate. How long will the plant thrive using this method? One observation is the leaves are darker the plant smells are much stronger than the non-experimental plant. Question how will the higher pH affect the flowering?

Lastly, I’m using a pruning technique on one of the bigger plants in the OG garden using the same strains. Comparing growth between fan leaf pruned and non-pruned fan leaves is a continual experiment that is ongoing from many past grows. My conclusion is I’m still open to more research. At the end of every garden, one walks away with more experience that can be used in future grows.

 

[Creeperpark]

The trick is to start the seed in low humidity and the plant will adapt easily. In low humidity, the exchange process starts early. Very importantly make sure there's plenty of cal mag in RO or Rainwater. Growing in low humidity helps the plant tissue become stronger tougher and more resistant to mold compared to a wetter environment. Wetter environments grow soft spongy plant tissue and are easily attacked by mold Hyphae.

Hyphae are the thread-like structures that make up mycelium. They anchor the mold to its food source and absorb nutrients, similar to plant roots. Google

I need to clarify the growing humidity to prevent misinterpretation. Here, when the wind blows out of the NorthWest, the humidity can drop and stay in the 30s for long periods, and when the wind changes out of the South, the humidity rises to the 50s and upper 60s. I don’t run a humidifier or dehumidifier and will have periods during the growth in both ranges.

Winter almost always falls in the lower ranges, and Summer grows in the higher humidity ranges. My humidity can change in the blink of an eye in either range. The key is to maintain proper hydration to match the humidity.

 

[Creeperpark]

I'm starting to get a nice stretch on my females. The room was way overcrowded and I was in a strain every time I did anything in the garden. Yesterday I noticed a male in there that I missed. I can't see well enough to find them until the flowers are well formed using a magnifier. I got it out before it did anything and put it outdoors with the other males. That was a nice surprise because of my limited space, now I have a little more room. This 6x6ft is full with no extra space.