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Creeper is creeping again.
- Thread starter Creeperpark
- Start date
Alpine Guerilla
Active member
Is it possible to repair/clean them? Or is this physical damage not resin?
I pack mine pretty good, will need to do a good side by side sometime with plastic and fabric pots. I always mean to verify more things but sometimes I don't make the time for it. I appreciate the information and will try and see if there's a difference when I can and try and update my practices and post the results etc. Thank you!
My man farmer joe has been breaking down this for me over and over, and it echoes what other experts have said.
If you look at fancy dandy stuff like mulders chart, you can see that there's there's many interactions going on!
You've also mentioned CEC which I learned about from slownickel. Slo has talked so much about nutrients in soil and how they uptake, leach, what the soil lacks, etc. I don't always understand what is going on but...
As you broke it down, the way I understand it is,
If a plant was a person, you'd want to serve them a balanced meal and let them take what they need right? If you trust them to take what they need, then you wouldn't try and force the leftovers down their throat, ehehehe. So watering to runoff, that's like serving a new balanced meal while wiping the old one away, in theory. That way as you said, the plant takes what it needs every time.
That isn't to say fancy amendments or additives are useless! But a lot of this stuff, like my friends and acquaintances say, is simple science. Lucas formula, gh trio, Athena, Jack's 321, it's all designed to provide the same macro and micro nutrients. You don't need a fancy additive to provide a balanced meal. So save your dollars and look at if the price spent on something like tribus or great white is worth it, or if you could get Wallace Organic Wonder instead and put the money towards better lights or environmental control. A billion dollar facility doesn't run Resinator, they run 3 part salts and only what else is needed. Speaking to any reader in general, you already understand this clearly, OP.
I've had people ask me, how did you change your feed, when I mention it on IG. It's truly the basic concept you stated. Continuous liquid feed.
Glad you are posting, I found your posts very descriptive and informative.
I almost forgot to mention, with seedlings I kept having some trouble so sometimes I switched to a plain spray bottle to ensure I wasn't over whelming the seedling. I'm always still learning, though.
FellaAndrene
Well-known member
I will be following this one keenly! Very fascinating to watch a legend work. 
And here I am, watering with plain tap water with pH 8.2. Reusing the same soil too. And I almost never water to runoff.
You can definitely do that also, but most people arent gonna have beautiful organic soil providing top shelf results. They either don't run large enough containers or don't have enough experience. *points to self*I will be following this one keenly! Very fascinating to watch a legend work.
And here I am, watering with plain tap water with pH 8.2. Reusing the same soil too. And I almost never water to runoff.
The standard synthetic feed ratio is gonna be bang on close for most plants especially anything selected since the 90s. Most people aren't going to get their soil that amazing (IMO)
This looks great, wanna see how this grow finishes. Planta look really happy and bushy, leaf boners
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New member
Freezerweed
Member
I have not done this, some of my seed runs, have had 70% males. I usually just start at 12 1/2 light to 11 1/2 dark. Reducing to 11/13 after presexing.
During this garden, I have been able to run a low humidity in the 30% range from sprout, until now. This allows the plant to move a lot of low ppm nutrient water from the soil through the plant and back into the atmosphere. More nutrients are used by the plant in this exchange because of the low humidities. Higher humidities above 60% will move less water and slow down the water nutrient exchange process.
The trick is to start the seed in low humidity and the plant will adapt easily. In low humidity, the exchange process starts early. Very importantly make sure there's plenty of cal mag in RO or Rainwater. Growing in low humidity helps the plant tissue become stronger tougher and more resistant to mold compared to a wetter environment. Wetter environments grow soft spongy plant tissue and are easily attacked by mold Hyphae.
Hyphae are the thread-like structures that make up mycelium. They anchor the mold to its food source and absorb nutrients, similar to plant roots. Google
Hyphae are the thread-like structures that make up mycelium. They anchor the mold to its food source and absorb nutrients, similar to plant roots. Google
I moved the males outdoors to allow the females extra room. I use greenhouse-shade clothe to buffer the heat off the soil containers. These male plants love being free outdoors.
This is an overflowing garden, I had to move 3 females early in the grow for more room. The space is a 2x4 ft size area. I'm using two 90-watt LED lights and a fan with the same nutrient EC in this garden as the other garden.
Care full though, theres a point where the plant will over transpire and dehydrate too fast for root uptake. It then shuts stomata and wont drink. But yeah, on the higher end of vpd range should be good
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Here is 3 days later starting to get a stretch. The humidity is rising a little and the temps are spot on.
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9 hours light from start to finish quick turn around low yield sativas.
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