Plants eat CO2 and shit Oxygen , thus how life on earth is possible , since humans eat Oxygen and shit Carbon Dioxide....symbiotic relationship huh guys ?.....now....
During the lights out process Asslover , CO2 levels AND humidity levels spike from the plants transpiring all the "excess" CO2 not metabolized during the lights on process , as well as all excess water vapor not used during nutrient uptake in the same time frame....
Maybe that`s where you came upon the idea that the plants produce CO2 during lights out , but in fact as I stated , the CO2 AND humidity spikes during lights out with sealed rooms is caused from what`s NOT used during lights on , unless scientific evidence shows otherwise that I`ve never had knowledge of....that`s why....
Most all commercial growers exhaust like a mofo during lights out in their so called sealed rooms to get rid of all excess CO2 and humidity that big operations with lg plant numbers produce....anyways....
Peace....DHF.........
Sorry if I didn`t clarify Shred , but what actually occurs is their exhausts are hooked to environmental controllers with humidistats and CO2 monitors built in that open the exhausts during lights off when humidity and CO2 levels spike , and then once levels are backed down into dialed parameters , the exhausts kick off and close ....Actually tho...
"During the night, plants consume oxygen but they don't release any. All plants and animals on earth engage in a process called respiration. Respiration combines oxygen and the food created during photosynthesis to produce usable energy. One of the byproducts of respiration is carbon dioxide."http://indianapublicmedia.org/amomentofscience/sleeping-with-plants/
I'm also curious why you think "Most all commercial growers exhaust like a mofo during lights out in their so called sealed rooms to get rid of all excess CO2 and humidity..." ?
Most larger growers I know do not unseal their rooms for half the day, dehueys are used to combat humidity. My ppms rise to about 1300 from 1000. No problem there.
As Mikell was saying, using zero ventilation allows your grow to be unaffected by outdoor factors. What if it is a rainy spring, and you're trying to dry out a room by drawing in 80% rh air? This is why a fully sealed room is able to be at any parameters you want, regardless of outside conditions.
As many folks have already stated if you are running ventilation with a burner you are absolutely burning excess gas, if you are even able to maintain ppm...
If it works out cheaper to burn extra gas instead of an a/c while maintaining your ppm, then cool. But then temps/humidity will be depending on your outside conditions.
If I were you, and you must run ventilation, I would skip the co2 for now until you can get an a/c. Co2 is a waste without the right temps and vpd to match, which would be very difficult with ventilation, in my opinion
...As Mikell was saying, using zero ventilation allows your grow to be unaffected by outdoor factors. What if it is a rainy spring, and you're trying to dry out a room by drawing in 80% rh air? This is why a fully sealed room is able to be at any parameters you want, regardless of outside conditions.
...But then temps/humidity will be depending on your outside conditions.
So I take it that no one is exhausting through a carbon filter 24/7 while supplementing CO2 and maintaining desired levels while doing so...
Oi vey.
The amount of leakage from a well sealed room (exchanging air with slight negative pressure) is minimal and unlikely to have much effect on the house HVAC. Leaving the bathroom fan on all day every once in awhile would have more impact annually (an assumption, but a fairly safe one I think).
I do this, with a natural gas burner and a ppm controller, works well. My exhaust is only a trickle though -- to maintain slight negative pressure in the room.
Also, some minisplits have cool & heat so it wouldn't be that strange in winter
yes, you guys are out of my league.
While my ego appreciates the praise, a tendency to self deprecation (Dipshit Know-Nothing) and honesty...
...someone like DHF. The guy's a bloody front line soldier who's put his time in and reaped the rewards ...the utmost respect for men like DHF.
Hi ceosam, and, thanks!
Could you please talk about this a bit more?
I have some questions:
1. Is the room otherwise sealed?
2. Is your intake passive or active?
3. What is your PPM target range?
Not really, L’ofme. It’s more along the lines of what Mikell said about each of our situations being different and us needing to adapt to their particulars.
I had always read that tanked CO2, such as you’re using, should be introduced at canopy level, because it’s heavier than air. But if you’re exhausting 24/7, I’d think you’d want to introduce at floor level at the opposite side from your filter. That’s just what I would think, don’t mean to say that it’s the best (or right) way... Good luck!
Room is completely sealed (airtight) except the entry door which the small space under/around the door are where the fresh air comes in.
10x20 room, passive intake, 1000ppm on my controller that is near the entry door. Opposite end of the room is my exhaust fan+scrubber. 6" hyper fan dialled back to 10-20% fan strength.
The "trickle" exhaust keeps negative pressure so no chance of smell escaping (except when I open entry door) and it pulls fresh air in slowly. Too powerful of a fan and your burner will keep coming on and will raise the temps very quickly
Exhausting a full 12 hrs during lights out never hurt anyone though
except for those of us where outside air during lights off is 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
I don't use air cooled lights but the general rule is to push instead of pull to avoid smell leaks.
Scrubber > Fan > Hoods > Outside