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Click here for Afropip Durban Poison, and GN Thai Stick or don't. I dont care.

Morcheeba*

Well-known member
Veteran
...Those pure sativas aren't as daunting as they may appear. I tend to look at as more time with my ladies I so love and care about. Why have a 2 month fling, when you can have a 5-6 month one?...


what a great quote for long flowering Sativa lovers.

the longest strain flowering for me was ACE Zamadelica that i let go 120 days and i found that growing them indoors along side Indicas, in a tent, was pretty foolish.

also on the pic of the preying mantis plant was that RED sap?


peace
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
what a great quote for long flowering Sativa lovers.

the longest strain flowering for me was ACE Zamadelica that i let go 120 days and i found that growing them indoors along side Indicas, in a tent, was pretty foolish.

also on the pic of the preying mantis plant was that RED sap?


peace

Feel free to use it as often as you wish :huggg:. 4 months used to seem so long to me when I first began growing, but after so many long lasting love affairs with these ladies it goes by in a blink of an eye now.

I'd love to be able to grow these ladies outdoors, and see what they're capable of. If your garden is anything like mine, those indicas got swallowed up by the Zam's and suffered for it. The two styles definitely dont mix well in most gardens.

That was a reddish/ purple sap on her from where I snipped her top with my fingers. With sam's hazeskunk I had one lady that bled ruby red. It was an incredibly deep thick red completely opaque. You couldn't see through it at all. It was a real site to behold.
 

Morcheeba*

Well-known member
Veteran
Dave,

i didnt think my eyes were deceiving me. thats gotta be a cool sight to see in the garden.

i figure if i could get thru flowering a plant ~120 days and waiting for it to cure 6 month i can do longer flowering girls. the Zamals were vigorous but i was also running a Colombian Gold x JH in a 2 1/2 gal pot flipped at~20" would finish at 5' so she was the one overgrowing the others.

peace
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
This should been up last night, but I accidentally closed the tab after preparing it. Got fed up and decided to do it all again today. So lets get to it shall we?

Its time to take our sample w/ Durban Poison I. These pics will help further illustrate the process of collection, and help clarify the very last section of part 2.(I updated it slightly.)

Here we have our finger clamp closed off with the plug remaining in.
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The clamp has been released and moved upwards so we can open up the squeeze point with our fingers.
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Attach your syringe and get ready to pull.
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Once youve pulled the plunger up, the solution will follow, but make sure to firmly hold the plunger in your grip, or it'll shoot right back in pushing your solution back into the tube.
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Once I have the solution in my tube, I separate the syringe from the tube. Pull out the plunger while holding my finger across the bottom opening. My Bluelab combo meter is small enough to fit down into the syringe for easy measurement. I would advise using only samples that are at least 20ml+ for testing. Smaller samples are not as accurate for testing purposes.

Once we've gotten our solution, tested, and recorded, we take our now empty syringe and pull the vacuum in the lysimeter again.

Rinse, repeat as often as you wish to take measurements. Its that easy.
Take measurements of your healthiest plants and aim to get similar plants all into that recorded range.
 

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
So Dave, do you keep the lysimeter installed the whole grow? One for each plant? I will see if maybe I can fit the 90 cm (3 foot) one in my 5 gal fabric pots, but I don't think it will fit in my cab. :dunno: If not I'll look for the 60 cm ones. Thanks for this info, it is an awesome yet simple tool for cultivating cannabis indoors. :good:
 

Elmer Bud

Genotype Sex Worker AKA strain whore
Veteran
G`day DC

I`m having some trouble understanding how the minerals in your soil relate to EC .

Don`t they need to be broken down by microbes before the plant can eat them ?

How do you measure minerals that your plant can eat ,vs what is in the medium but can`t be absorbed ?

Thanks for sharin

EB .
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
So Dave, do you keep the lysimeter installed the whole grow? One for each plant? I will see if maybe I can fit the 90 cm (3 foot) one in my 5 gal fabric pots, but I don't think it will fit in my cab. :dunno: If not I'll look for the 60 cm ones. Thanks for this info, it is an awesome yet simple tool for cultivating cannabis indoors. :good:

Yes, once its inserted into the rootball, I dont remove it until its time to transfer it to another plant in need. I really need to stock up on more 1ft models as they work really well for most my plants. Im always running low on lysimeters and too many plants in need of them.

I run one per plant, but in larger containers say 5+ gallons, I would advise two. One inserted into the upper rootzone, and a second inserted deeper into the bottom 3rd of the rootzone.

You'll grow to love your lysimeter in no time and find it invaluable. So simple to use, yet provides such incredible info with the extracted soil solutions.

G`day DC

I`m having some trouble understanding how the minerals in your soil relate to EC .

Don`t they need to be broken down by microbes before the plant can eat them ?

How do you measure minerals that your plant can eat ,vs what is in the medium but can`t be absorbed ?

Thanks for sharin

EB .

Elmer, I feed my plants with WSF(water soluble fertilizers) and osmocote(time released nutrient prills). The WSF is full of nutrient/mineral ions, which are readily available to be taken up by my plants roots without much need of microbial action. The ions charge my soil solution each time I water by hand or via blumats.

When we measure our extraction were are measuring only ions that are available in the soil solution. The very ones were supplying with WSF, and Osmocote. Were not testing for nutrients locked away in organic or mineral matter that needs broken down via microbial action.

If I wanted, I could purchase more accessories that would measure Ammonia, Nitrate levels, P, and K. Thats expensive and more time intensive, so I use the measurements provided in PPM to create a range that my ladies do well at, as well as ranges where N deficiencies set in, as well as where N toxicities set in.

One could even send off extracted samples to labs to be more deeply detailed I would think, but Ive never done that.

I hope that cleared things up. If there is any confusion still please let me know. Im enjoying some cob right now, so everything I typed seem to make sense just now. :biggrin:
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
A follow up to DP-I, and her recent insertion with a lysimeter. 24 hours after insertion, I was able to obtain about a 15ml sample, which provided very high EC/PPM measurements over 2K ppm! Even with such a small sample, I could tell by her look when moved away from the lights. Too dark of a green, and a little rougher and not as supple as the leaves should be. No tip burn at all though, but getting close. She was likely at the far end of the luxurious range of fertility levels.

I watered her with 200ppm reservoir water from my flower room, and 'reset' the lysimeter. I know the lysimeter instructions on hannas website says you shouldn't begin pulling a solution right after watering, but in a one gallon container, she depletes water levels very quickly, so Ive no choice. Ideally, we would be using larger containers right now, but this will do.

The following night, I took another measurement, and was able to get 20ml of soil solution extract, and the extracts PPM had dropped down to below 2k. Around 1950. Still too high. I reset the lysimeter that night, and gave her a small watering to maintain her media moisture levels. Feeding was at 90-100ppm this time.

I took my latest extraction tonight, and was able to pull up almost 35ml!! I know 35ml doesn't sound like a lot, but the more solution you pull the better, more accurate your results will be when testing EC/PPM with your meter. I poured that solution out into my 50ml pyrex beaker and tested it in there, as well as by inserting my ppm meter into the syringe directly. If I did the syringe method it always came up 100ppm higher than if I did it in the beaker. I believe measuring it in the beaker is likely the better option.

Oh yeah, the ppm result right?? It was 1560 in the beaker. Thats a great number to be at. 1750-1800 ppm tends to be on the luxurious side of things, and if you break 2k, you need to ease off nutrients. If you drop below 1250ppm, N deficiencies may begin to appear especially under high intensity lighting and high temps. At 800ppm its guaranteed N deficiencies will appear even under weaker lighting such as T5's.

Notice that I didn't freak out and flush my plant when it was over 2kppm. I knew from repeated extractions over the years, that if I just leave her alone, she will suck up the nutrients through normal processes and fertility levels will drop back down to a ideal range, bit its up to you as the grower to maintain that range by repeated measurements with your lysimeter and follow up feedings.

I dont have a clue how well this work in an organic garden, but Id love to see someone try out a lysimeter and give us some feedback.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
ShitHaze Update

ShitHaze Update

I snapped some pics a couple of nights ago of my shithaze that are flowering and I wanted to share my favorite lady so far. She was kinda short n compact going in and has done well in not stretching out of control. Go small pots and mh ftw! She was the furthest behind in flowering but has caught up very quickly compared to her sisters.

She is now around 37/38 days into flowering 60 days from seed. She needs around another 2 months to be ready. I need to transplant her soon. Got to water every 36 hours with her.

Need to test her soil fertility levels n see where she is too


 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
She's looking good Dave, any smells coming off her yet?

Very sweet scents. She leans more towards the sweet-berry scented Mr. Nice shit. Not to say Sam's hazeskunk can't smell sweet but catpiss aroma is more common. I got one such lady thats more haze dominant right now who smells like catpiss. Just one of the four though. Don't much care for it.
 

gorilla ganja

Well-known member
Thanks for the info on the lysimeter Dave. Very interesting and useful and you made it easy to understand.
I know it takes a lot of time and effort to put these posts together and I appreciate you sharing.

Peace GG
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
I got another nose involved with the sweet smelling shithaze and my pal said it smells like citric/orange cotton candy. I can understand that. Another lady smells very strongly of Orange rind to me so definitely some Citric tones to be had.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the info on the lysimeter Dave. Very interesting and useful and you made it easy to understand.
I know it takes a lot of time and effort to put these posts together and I appreciate you sharing.

Peace GG

I'm glad you found it helpful. :thank you: Now go out n buy one along with a very good ec Meter. It's really great to be able to take a measurement right before feeding, knowing with that value I can tailor my nutrients much more precisely. No guessing games.

Stay tuned for the next post. I've got some GN Thai stick - E harvest pics coming up for you.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Gypsy Nirvana Thai Stick Day 162 Harvest

Gypsy Nirvana Thai Stick Day 162 Harvest

Well the time has finally come people. It's HARVEST time!!!!:woohoo:

She is seeded from both her nanners and my Durban male that dusted her. I'm not interested in her seeds so I took her down now.

I've had her in the flower tent for over a month finishing off feeding her mild nutrients. 200-300 ppm tops every other day around 48 oz. in a 3 gallon pot. She wasn't directly under the 600w MH but instead in the corner with her long limbs hanging down like a weeping willow.

She had many broken branches from the sheer weight of the buds but somehow it didn't phase her. One branch was 20-25% attached and still had tons of big greasy stinky buds after the snap point and were perfectly healthy.

She didn't lose nearly as many leaves as the other Thai who yellowed very fast after day 120. The other Thai had frequent hand feedings around 500-600ppm w/ 1200mh, lower temps and still couldn't stay as green as this lady has.

I really need to increase the distance between canopy and lights to get better results next run of these wonderful Thai. Thanks gypsy!

I learn more and more with each run. I've got a great group of Thai clones overgrowin their containers right now. Just itching to be transplanted and ready to let loose. I've got pics of them too! They'll have to come a bit later but for now some pics of Thai stick E right after being cut n hung up.

No trimming whatsoever before hanging up to dry!!
I need to extend the drying process for as long as possible, so I need every leaf there is. They produce so much of your humidity if your not using a humidifier. Right now it's sitting at 66% after an hour in a closed closet. Great spot to be at.

Now for the pics. Woot woot!




Thanks for reading all that. Hope you enjoy the pics of her. Still no new camera but I think I'll begin visiting pawn shops for some good deals and see if I can find.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Great grow bud, enjoy your rewards.

Thanks for the compliment Toby. :thank you:
There will be plenty of that reward to enjoy. Can't wait to make some new cobs with this lady.
Spectacualr!!!

Way to go.

Thanks for sharing

Thanks hunter. Glad you enjoyed her. More pics of her as she becomes cobbed and some will be jarred too.

This Thai is great. I'm enjoying some tsa 31 weaker, 7+ months cured and it does wonder for the mind and body. My headache that 2 bc powders and 2 extra strength Tylenol couldn't cure, was erased immediately by some Thai mixed with a bit of Durban poison - M. r.i.p

I must get back to my garden right but I'm gonna try to get pics of the Thai clones into a post.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Afropips Durban Poison x GN Thai Stick 1 month update.

Afropips Durban Poison x GN Thai Stick 1 month update.

The Durban x thai stick are bout a month into their young lives right now. 2 weeks veg then switched to 11/13. I can't wait to see how they express themselves in flowering. If you thought the Durbans we're beautiful, wait till you see their hybrid offspring. Just stunning.

Very healthy up this point in half gallon containers. Remember they're in the old rootballs of the male shithazes I cut down. The old stump was easily pulled up by 14 days in and the new host plant had taken root with no issues.

They're so healthy I've only lost the cotyledons so far. The first set of leaves are still a rich colorful green. Ferts by hand @ day 1 at up to 600 ppm but typically in the 400 ppm range first two weeks then up to 500-600ppm over the last two weeks. No water only feeds.

I'm loving this dyna grow 7-9-5 formula. I couldn't find the high n formula for sale easily so I chose this after reading good reviews. It also has a slightly better NN:AN ratio too if my memory serves me right. That'll help keep ph lower over the long term.

Now for just one stunning beauty for your hungry eyes.

Yes this is leaf porn at its finest. I often prefer seeing super healthy leaves rather than buds. Is that odd of me?

 

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