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simba
Sleeping Dragon
noCal,, yups..
ya.. id just go straight threw.. we dont swap out to anything we where for a while..
(we haven't officially decided what bulb should supplement cmh.. you could get a white son.. (half of its energy is wasted but the other half is So usable (low wattage though)
Cali.. ya cmh does dump UV.. the protected MHC and our Retro whites have a uv block the retro whites have less of a uv filter compared to MHC but still enough..
(you should be good.. but watch it near end of harvest. some plants take only a little to make alot (fill and plode the sacks )
Oswizzle.. ya jorge C hes ight..
i follow Universities Studies.. and fact. and others have been on this for Years..
ill find the links but i have at least 3 or 4 that say otherwise.. as PLant biology
and if you ever smoked outdoor mountain or equator herb ud disagree with him..
we EVEN need full SPD Light (sunlight or CMH) to live to..circadian rythim and vitamin absorption and other goodies..
ya.. id just go straight threw.. we dont swap out to anything we where for a while..
(we haven't officially decided what bulb should supplement cmh.. you could get a white son.. (half of its energy is wasted but the other half is So usable (low wattage though)
Cali.. ya cmh does dump UV.. the protected MHC and our Retro whites have a uv block the retro whites have less of a uv filter compared to MHC but still enough..
(you should be good.. but watch it near end of harvest. some plants take only a little to make alot (fill and plode the sacks )
Oswizzle.. ya jorge C hes ight..
i follow Universities Studies.. and fact. and others have been on this for Years..
ill find the links but i have at least 3 or 4 that say otherwise.. as PLant biology
and if you ever smoked outdoor mountain or equator herb ud disagree with him..
we EVEN need full SPD Light (sunlight or CMH) to live to..circadian rythim and vitamin absorption and other goodies..
BonsaiBud
Member
So is anyone putting them (CMH) in digital projectors?
Is there a ballast for the 20 watt so that I can go around the house replacing CFLs and T12s with CMH? I know about the integrated ballast 20 watt PAR. How about a "reading" light or a single 50 up in the ceiling fixture?
As to what to suppliment? Well, there is that pure red T5. My experimentations with actinics have proven conclusive: dense, vegetative dark green growth. With the protection jacket and the tempered fixture glass, I might be missing a little UV. But only, in comparison to the Pink Bulb. It burned my plants; it was too close. I now have the T5 up above my CFLs. While it did seem to "induce" flowering, I would guess that the Biotropic Purple would be better up until the end of flowering.
Is there a ballast for the 20 watt so that I can go around the house replacing CFLs and T12s with CMH? I know about the integrated ballast 20 watt PAR. How about a "reading" light or a single 50 up in the ceiling fixture?
As to what to suppliment? Well, there is that pure red T5. My experimentations with actinics have proven conclusive: dense, vegetative dark green growth. With the protection jacket and the tempered fixture glass, I might be missing a little UV. But only, in comparison to the Pink Bulb. It burned my plants; it was too close. I now have the T5 up above my CFLs. While it did seem to "induce" flowering, I would guess that the Biotropic Purple would be better up until the end of flowering.
BonsaiBud
Member
Oh, the ideal reading light would be a 35 watt HPS in a lamp glass, behind a shade. The candle spectrum without the candle. I use blueish LED for night lights. Mix of CFL color in my bathroom, and low K CFLs for around the house. Daytime indoor lights would best be CMH. "candle" spectrum for after sunset and moon spectrum for after bedtime. Full blast in the morning.
Ok I have my lights set up and everything how far from the tips of the plants should I put my CMH?
it looks really bright when you look at the bulb (even with sunglasses) but i am not sure how close to place the plants because this is my first time with any kind of HID light. Usually I place my flouros right on tops of the plants but right now they are 18" away from the plants just to be safe until someone can tell me better? I should get a light meter and see how much light they are actully getting because to my eye it looks like the plants get more light from my CFL's and fluro tubes being 1/2 inch away from the plant then I am getting with the 400watter at 18". I do know that its pretty hot about 4-6 inches away from the bulb and im scared to touch it. It raised room temps 8 degrees so far from 68 to almost 80.Its been on 4 hours. Ill get a camera chip later today for my camera. but how will i get the chip into the computer ? do i need a reader or something?
it looks really bright when you look at the bulb (even with sunglasses) but i am not sure how close to place the plants because this is my first time with any kind of HID light. Usually I place my flouros right on tops of the plants but right now they are 18" away from the plants just to be safe until someone can tell me better? I should get a light meter and see how much light they are actully getting because to my eye it looks like the plants get more light from my CFL's and fluro tubes being 1/2 inch away from the plant then I am getting with the 400watter at 18". I do know that its pretty hot about 4-6 inches away from the bulb and im scared to touch it. It raised room temps 8 degrees so far from 68 to almost 80.Its been on 4 hours. Ill get a camera chip later today for my camera. but how will i get the chip into the computer ? do i need a reader or something?
BonsaiBud
Member
When the short wavelength light begins to burn the fan leaves. It is too close. My flower cab runs at 100 F. I plant to redo the ventilation and bring it down to 90. But, current ventilation and memory thermometer ensures that 100 is the max.
Just don't go away for so long that the plant grows up into the bulb and fixture and burns. There was a spec on outer bulb glass temp. 550 something. One guy was foliar sparaying some water and got it on the bulb and it just boiled off. Too risky for me. Besides, you need to let the water dry after foliar spraying before the lights come one or you put he plants back under them.
Just don't go away for so long that the plant grows up into the bulb and fixture and burns. There was a spec on outer bulb glass temp. 550 something. One guy was foliar sparaying some water and got it on the bulb and it just boiled off. Too risky for me. Besides, you need to let the water dry after foliar spraying before the lights come one or you put he plants back under them.
So I asked a couple months ago when the 600's and 1000's would be around and simba said a couple months. So they out yet?
simba
Sleeping Dragon
Mr C.
ya i updated it still same answer..
philips is going to release a 144 LPW CMH at the upcoming Lighting Fair..
so i assume that is another reason they kicked the big boys back ..
the other thing.. the 600-1.5KWs are a Sever threat to MH and HPS Manufacturing facilities World Wide.. they need to make more $$ off the mfr plants they have now before even releasing let alone the complete halt of MH and HPS oh and CFL>>
HPS and MH CFL are so much cheaper on MFR side than CMH.. (one reason is failure rate at First Strike (thats why adv tech Preburns all bulbs)
the cermet glue fails because the metals salts and gases is so corrosive and the design of the arc tube puts allot of pressure on select points.. (if they dont fail in preburn they are 99% gona last whole life because if they don't fail then the glues held basically ..)
Side note there is another CMH mfr that presented CMH in 600-1000 but theres issues so its not avail.. and the spd is more like eye blue than the cmh we want..
Philips has patents on 20-1000 watt so i have to say it comes back to Profiting..
a great example of cmh over cfl incandescent hps or mh..
philips 25 watt cmh and if you put that in your fixture at home it beats a 50 watt incandescent ..
(cant compare lumen's the SPD is what does it all that blue-green-yellow-red energy in cmh vs just yellow-red on incandescent
when i take out my 70 watt cmh in the house and i have a 450 watt incandescent fixture i turn off the incandescent cause it becomes so pitifull in output compared to the cmh..
in short cmh is a threat to all lighting except Digital RF induction CMH (not Magnetron driven)
the only real downside to cmh is its non instant ON rather takes 2-6 minutes depending on bulb..and cant go on off on..cfl is the same way we just dont see the detrimental affect untill we replace it at half life instead of full life.. (cfl hates on off)
ya i updated it still same answer..
philips is going to release a 144 LPW CMH at the upcoming Lighting Fair..
so i assume that is another reason they kicked the big boys back ..
the other thing.. the 600-1.5KWs are a Sever threat to MH and HPS Manufacturing facilities World Wide.. they need to make more $$ off the mfr plants they have now before even releasing let alone the complete halt of MH and HPS oh and CFL>>
HPS and MH CFL are so much cheaper on MFR side than CMH.. (one reason is failure rate at First Strike (thats why adv tech Preburns all bulbs)
the cermet glue fails because the metals salts and gases is so corrosive and the design of the arc tube puts allot of pressure on select points.. (if they dont fail in preburn they are 99% gona last whole life because if they don't fail then the glues held basically ..)
Side note there is another CMH mfr that presented CMH in 600-1000 but theres issues so its not avail.. and the spd is more like eye blue than the cmh we want..
Philips has patents on 20-1000 watt so i have to say it comes back to Profiting..
a great example of cmh over cfl incandescent hps or mh..
philips 25 watt cmh and if you put that in your fixture at home it beats a 50 watt incandescent ..
(cant compare lumen's the SPD is what does it all that blue-green-yellow-red energy in cmh vs just yellow-red on incandescent
when i take out my 70 watt cmh in the house and i have a 450 watt incandescent fixture i turn off the incandescent cause it becomes so pitifull in output compared to the cmh..
in short cmh is a threat to all lighting except Digital RF induction CMH (not Magnetron driven)
the only real downside to cmh is its non instant ON rather takes 2-6 minutes depending on bulb..and cant go on off on..cfl is the same way we just dont see the detrimental affect untill we replace it at half life instead of full life.. (cfl hates on off)
simba
Sleeping Dragon
ya sorry shes actully not wanting to release it without UL even with all UL components even Timers.
so a DIY option has come about.. (and parts will be avail)
with a relay setup..
you'll need either 1 jcm control 103 (ill double check) or 2 102's in series to get the 15 minutes..
ill post a schematic after lunch..
Adv tech has the 102's for something else for 8.5 (ull need 2 plus relay so total diy cost about.. 27 with wire etc) the 103 will be 8 bucks cheaper ish..
so a DIY option has come about.. (and parts will be avail)
with a relay setup..
you'll need either 1 jcm control 103 (ill double check) or 2 102's in series to get the 15 minutes..
ill post a schematic after lunch..
Adv tech has the 102's for something else for 8.5 (ull need 2 plus relay so total diy cost about.. 27 with wire etc) the 103 will be 8 bucks cheaper ish..
princess cronic
Member
o.k. I am new at this and I just recieved a 100w MH bulb. i have a ceramic socket brooding light with metal reflector. Can I use this?
simba
Sleeping Dragon
a what light..J/K.. unfort not.. you need a pulse rated medium socket.. the standard sockets can short. (they don't protect from Pulse's_)
side note your chickens would love cmh in there coupe. Simulates sunlight indoors..
youll get better overall output if u use it horizontal.. itll be hard to diffuse flood that lamp.. with that reflector.
MPL sorry got busy ill post the schematic and parts list whats avail from adv and elsewhere in the morning
side note your chickens would love cmh in there coupe. Simulates sunlight indoors..
youll get better overall output if u use it horizontal.. itll be hard to diffuse flood that lamp.. with that reflector.
MPL sorry got busy ill post the schematic and parts list whats avail from adv and elsewhere in the morning
JohnnyToke
Member
BonsaiBud said:hps/CMH
the CMH is to the left (vertically) and the HPS is overhead. They still follow gravity or the HPS.
I can't train em to face the left, not even by putting the plant on its side.
in my current grow, I placed an hps right in the middle between my (2) cmh hoods and my plants are all growing to the hps in the middle. they all have shoulder lean towards the hps. the hps is 400w and so are the cmh's.
I thought that was interesting.
JT
simba
Sleeping Dragon
bonsi.. did ya mean they where leaning to cmh..
JT,, ya that kinda makes sense if you have 2 blue lamps (cmh) on either side and hps in the midlle.. that it would still go straight.. (it gets = coverage from cmh dead center) im sure it did try to go to either side and figured out quick.. to stay center..
turn one of ur cmhs off for a day..cycle.. and ull see a jump to the other side..
JT,, ya that kinda makes sense if you have 2 blue lamps (cmh) on either side and hps in the midlle.. that it would still go straight.. (it gets = coverage from cmh dead center) im sure it did try to go to either side and figured out quick.. to stay center..
turn one of ur cmhs off for a day..cycle.. and ull see a jump to the other side..
JohnnyToke
Member
im going to try a little different approach.
this weekend, I am going to move the hps reflector from in between the two cmh's overhead and mount the horizontal reflector on a wall next to my grow. I will place it about 18" higher than the plant tops and angle downward over the scrog screen. the two cmh's will remain overhead as they are now.
within a week or so, I will know if the plants are seeking out the HPS by leaning towards it or shooting straight up towards bluelight emitting from the cmh's overhead.
regards,
JT
this weekend, I am going to move the hps reflector from in between the two cmh's overhead and mount the horizontal reflector on a wall next to my grow. I will place it about 18" higher than the plant tops and angle downward over the scrog screen. the two cmh's will remain overhead as they are now.
within a week or so, I will know if the plants are seeking out the HPS by leaning towards it or shooting straight up towards bluelight emitting from the cmh's overhead.
regards,
JT
MPL
Member
I'm not saying you are wrong, but take a look at Murphy's 400w CMH grow. It is quite impressive, and I don't think anyone would say that his buds are not dense and dank.
OsWiZzLe said:
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