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Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

I have a 3x3 flood & drain pan in the tent to catch any runaways from my blumats, so the girls are all positioned within that area. I could fit several more plants in there (currently there are five), but with the 3-gallon air pots and saucers that I'm using, they wouldn't fit over the catch pan. I think that I'm going to drop the size of the pots, I don't think that the larger pots are required. I've never been able to really fill out the 3-gallon pots/coco with roots, and I currently have a couple of Mosca's Tsi Fly plants going in some 5-liter pots that were cut down a couple of inches. These were supposed to become bonsai mom's, but they got away from me and the damn things got huge - they are about 3-1/2' tall after being tied down and have stems that are right at 1" diameter. Another benefit that I see to the smaller pots is that they are so full of roots that they have literally locked the blumats in - the bigger pots always stay a little loose, and that seems to contribute to the blumats running away occasionally.

Yes, the plants have stopped stretching and are holding pretty steady with the tallest being about 14" from the light and ranging toward more clearance from there.

No, I don't use a light mover.

Thanks man, I resemble the remark on the "bonsai" mothers..... I guess that the trick there is trimming the roots every so often and keep it in as small a container as you have the stomach for....

A couple of weeks ago I bought a 3x3 tray for the tent. I was planning to just put the airpots directly in the tray as I hate dealing with saucers, but thinking about it and seeing that you use saucers.. I bet it's to catch hand feeding runoff?

Also, my observations match yours regarding root mass, though I grow in soil in 5g pots with 2 months of veg. Currently I have one Sativa pheno and two Indicas in bloom. The sativa is latched on to the blumats perfectly.... But she's a big gal. This is what I consider "latched on": when the drip starts, it ramps fairly quickly to a drop every 1 to 1.5 seconds.... Does this for about 45 minutes and sucks down about a gallon, does this about every 12 hours. Sound familiar? Never any water in saucers, but will see see a moisture ring around the base of the pot.

The Indicas though never have latched on properly. I'm going to start planting known Indica phenos from clone into 3 gallon pots. Thanks for the help.


I've had difficulty gaining knowledge on Blumats. I wrote a primer on RIU. I'm posting the link if you want to check it out and maybe add some wisdom.

http://www.rollitup.org/colorado-patients/766278-blumats-bubbas-lessons-learned.html

Bubba
 

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rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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ICMag Donor
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That looks to me like the CDM lamp and Boulder is trying to "rebrand" it. A search only shows their brochure - all of the other hits are for the CDM lamp. If you go to their site, it appears that they have taken the entire line of CDMs and put their designation to it, but with no links to the actual lamp data.
 

rives

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Thanks man, I resemble the remark on the "bonsai" mothers..... I guess that the trick there is trimming the roots every so often and keep it in as small a container as you have the stomach for....

A couple of weeks ago I bought a 3x3 tray for the tent. I was planning to just put the airpots directly in the tray as I hate dealing with saucers, but thinking about it and seeing that you use saucers.. I bet it's to catch hand feeding runoff?

Also, my observations match yours regarding root mass, though I grow in soil in 5g pots with 2 months of veg. Currently I have one Sativa pheno and two Indicas in bloom. The sativa is latched on to the blumats perfectly.... But she's a big gal. This is what I consider "latched on": when the drip starts, it ramps fairly quickly to a drop every 1 to 1.5 seconds.... Does this for about 45 minutes and sucks down about a gallon, does this about every 12 hours. Sound familiar? Never any water in saucers, but will see see a moisture ring around the base of the pot.

The Indicas though never have latched on properly. I'm going to start planting known Indica phenos from clone into 3 gallon pots. Thanks for the help.


I've had difficulty gaining knowledge on Blumats. I wrote a primer on RIU. I'm posting the link if you want to check it out and maybe add some wisdom.

http://www.rollitup.org/colorado-patients/766278-blumats-bubbas-lessons-learned.html

Bubba

I've used the 1-liter airpots for the moms, but they are really too small for a blumat to fit in comfortably. I use the saucers in order to quickly pinpoint which plant is starting to run away - I found that with all of them in the big catch pan, it took too much effort to find which one was having an intermittent problem. Also, my small tent is over a bathtub and utilizes the bathtub's drain, so something was needed to trap a little overflow when it happened.

I'll check out your link. You have found the blumat thread on here, haven't you?
 

coloradoe

New member
i tested the bolder lighting company fixture . I would personally save you money and go with the lec 315 . the bolder ficture its using an old air cooled reflector. thats the first indicator that they dont know much abou tlighting. any lamp that has a quartz jacket should never be air cooled. both fixtures use the same ago lamp . the lec read three times the amount of light with my par meter. same excact lamp . the reflective material and engineering behind the lec 315 im my opinion is maximizing the the lamps out put and light on target. if you are plannin on using the lamp as suplimental i would go for the 4200k verson . Just an opinion .
 

habeeb

follow your heart
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yeah they kinda don't seem to know what's up.. second, I agree, there using some plain old aircooled hood which is not going to do this lamp justice..

but the numbers, I am a little skeptical of as of right now, so if you got a par reading of say 500, the boulder lamp was getting 166 reading??? that's a little hard to believe, as I have 2 LEC and 1 DIY in a hood. I've measured glass and that's not where the loss is coming in from I know that, but I would like to know more as maybe you were measuring a spot under the lamp that the boulder lamp was giving bad numbers, IDK

thinking more on these reflectors, I'm not sure to recommend them to anyone, as the insert is going to go to crap sometime or another, honestly I've been toying with the idea of powder coating ( or talking to a powder coater to see about temps ) but we are well aware that reflectors lose light over the years with dust / cleaning them / sulfur.... then why do they keep building a design like this !!! ??? I find it hard to believe were shooting people into space but can't more tech along at a more rapid pace with what is learned? I mean come on the bell hoods like primitive, but when you think about them, the only design change they need is getting rid of screws on the inside, and moving the lamp holder to a different design to maximize light.. it's just like people are getting lazy. this is the stand point if I owned a lighting company... ( which I don't )

if I was recommending a lamp, I would say DIY, the d-papillon looks good but I need to try it first.






thanks for the info rives. I will look into the ballasts
 
Nice!!! Joe that's beautiful man.

I dunno, maybe the reflectors will poop out sometime but they're nice right now.... anyway by the time they go bad, I'll be on to the next big thing.... I have no self control :)
 

redclover

Member
please indulge us.. kinda looking for a bigger wattage size without paying Phillips twice ( two ballast / two bulbs )

would love a 600 watt version.. P.S. Phillips...


thinking of the all starts for veg.. rives can you turn down the ballasts on the all starts too ?

I couldn't get one bit of info from rep that actually told me to wait on the 860w CMH. He also told me the 315 in the hood on a light mover would produce more...
 

coloradoe

New member
I couldn't get one bit of info from rep that actually told me to wait on the 860w CMH. He also told me the 315 in the hood on a light mover would produce more...

I woul dbuy a par meter at the least to test lights if i were you. Meters are a great way to test lights with each other .
 

j78z

Member
Rives a quick question are you using the 315w mogul base open fixture bulbs (mogul base I think ) or the other style . I've been combing thru pages of info and as far as I can tell the pgz18 base bulbs are closed fixture only but I also could be totally wrong
 

rives

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Rives a quick question are you using the 315w mogul base open fixture bulbs (mogul base I think ) or the other style . I've been combing thru pages of info and as far as I can tell the pgz18 base bulbs are closed fixture only but I also could be totally wrong

I'm using the PQZ18 lamps. The mogul base ones are a recent addition to the line and weren't available when I started with them. The T9 PGZ18 lamps are only for use in enclosed fixtures, but the T12's (PGZX18) can be run open. The T12 is double-jacketed, so it provides it's own secondary protection.

I don't know if the mogul base is available in a 3100k or not. A quick search only comes up with the 4k from vendors and Philips spec sheets.
 

redclover

Member
I woul dbuy a par meter at the least to test lights if i were you. Meters are a great way to test lights with each other .

I read the leaves lol. I'm using the 860 bare vert, and have to be 16" away :( Not that great for a 5x5 tent. Does anyone have a link to a descent light meter? Every time I look for one they're around $300...ugh.
 

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