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Cannabis grafting
- Thread starter BobbyIronsights
- Start date
Breadwizard
Active member
F2F, that's exactly how I have my mother plant set up: manifolded to 12 tops, with grafted ends. Keeps the plant count down.
Last edited:
F2F
Well-known member
Pheno hunting application?
Pheno hunting application?
Again, apologies if it was already covered in thread but was wondering...could one use this for grafting different clones/seed plants from a pack of seeds to pheno hunt?
Any one think the chemotype of the unique grafts would be affected due to an allogeneic rootstock?
Best,
F2F
Pheno hunting application?
Again, apologies if it was already covered in thread but was wondering...could one use this for grafting different clones/seed plants from a pack of seeds to pheno hunt?
Any one think the chemotype of the unique grafts would be affected due to an allogeneic rootstock?
Best,
F2F
That's one of the best uses of grafting.
Expression of chemotypes seems no more impacted by grafting than by any other grow variable. Plant to plant variation is still the rule, and varieties definitely show their differences, even when sharing a rootstock.
Have fun - grafting is addictive!
Darpa
Member
Hi F2F,
I usually use grafting techniques to test different seeds from a breeder pack or from my own crosses….. Always to respect the canadian plant count. I share seeds, I graft the seedling on a mother plant to select the best candidate. That way, I Don't need to seek a research license. I've done it with my Biker Wreck strain. Hower 400 cutswere grafted for a summer trial. I selected the best pheno that I keep for the last 3 years. This year I grafted different Dosidos from archive Seeds Bank and Peanut Butter N chocolate from Exotik genetic
plants from different seeds. However, I've never tested them outside, and they are so far behind in the flowering phase compare to my Biker Kush x (GG4 x (GSC x Train Wreck)…. Dosidos and Peanut Butter N chocolate wont be ready in my area…. it's definetely interiors strain. But I may be able to Harvest Purple Green Crack x God Bud, and Straberry x God Bud. But grafting several plant from a seed pack is the best way to select good pheno and keeping plant cout down!
Darpa
F2F
Well-known member
Stack, Graft, and Roll
Stack, Graft, and Roll
Hey there Florere,
This has limitations obviously, and also why im curious about longevity of cold storage of cuttings/scions in the fridge. You could spend a couple rotations stacking in the fridge then graft all at once!
I want to search cuz I've Finos2Find!
Best,
F2F
Stack, Graft, and Roll
Hey there Florere,
This has limitations obviously, and also why im curious about longevity of cold storage of cuttings/scions in the fridge. You could spend a couple rotations stacking in the fridge then graft all at once!
I want to search cuz I've Finos2Find!
Best,
F2F
F2F
Well-known member
Plant count
Plant count
Heya Florere,
So you raised a very good point that merits a closer look. I worked the numbers a little bit and here's what I see. Imagine a limit on 6 plants at each stage (as defined by letter of the law - flower, veg [>14"], and clone[<14"]).
1st round- slightly offset germination of 12 plants to fit size requirements for 6veg and 6clone. Use two as rootstock for other 10.
Total 12 phenos, in duplicate across two host mothers.
2nd round - same as above but now I'm limited to starting a total of 10 plants instead of 12.
3rd round - again, same as above but reduce to eight new plants.
As you can see the numbers stack up pretty quickly. It takes time to build the numbers, but if you're wanting to run 12-20wk sativas it is faster and allows more hunting than going through normal grow out cycles.
This could get even more interesting if one begins fusing mothers together that have 10 or so grafts each.
Cheers,
F2F
Plant count
Heya Florere,
So you raised a very good point that merits a closer look. I worked the numbers a little bit and here's what I see. Imagine a limit on 6 plants at each stage (as defined by letter of the law - flower, veg [>14"], and clone[<14"]).
1st round- slightly offset germination of 12 plants to fit size requirements for 6veg and 6clone. Use two as rootstock for other 10.
Total 12 phenos, in duplicate across two host mothers.
2nd round - same as above but now I'm limited to starting a total of 10 plants instead of 12.
3rd round - again, same as above but reduce to eight new plants.
As you can see the numbers stack up pretty quickly. It takes time to build the numbers, but if you're wanting to run 12-20wk sativas it is faster and allows more hunting than going through normal grow out cycles.
This could get even more interesting if one begins fusing mothers together that have 10 or so grafts each.
Cheers,
F2F
Hookahhead
Active member
Has anyone tried “cold fusion” yet? What I mean is grafting to an unrooted cutting and letting the graft heal while the clone roots.
Breadwizard
Active member
I'd be really worried about success rate with thathe kind of process unless you've got some seriously specialized equipment (graft clips, humidity dome, etc). I use parafilm (same as I use for grafting citrus / stone fruits), then loosely wrap with cling film around the whole branch in order to keep moisture in, and I think the lossage of moisture and stress from both grafting and attempting to root would be too much for the cutting. My two cents at least.
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
Probably work better to "cold fuse" onto an air layered branch that is still supported by mom?
Wonder if you could graft 2 or more air layers together at the same time. Basically girdle the stems on 2 different plants and tie them together before you wrap it with medium. Or tie them together like a graft somehow, and air layer only one or even both of the branches below the graft, etc. Would the roots just tangle up, or would it fuse into one plant?
Wonder if you could graft 2 or more air layers together at the same time. Basically girdle the stems on 2 different plants and tie them together before you wrap it with medium. Or tie them together like a graft somehow, and air layer only one or even both of the branches below the graft, etc. Would the roots just tangle up, or would it fuse into one plant?
Hopefully someone who still feels a need to clone will try the cold fusion straight up.
I know you can root topped cuttings - so the stress to the rootstock is unlikely to be an issue (grafting 'seals' the wound, so it's definitely less intense than outright topping).
I also know that grafts establish the ability to hydrate from the rootstock in less than three days - every graft I've had fail has withered by that point. Some even failing despite being adhered to the rootstock.
Perfect grafts also require very little additional humidity - I see over 50% take even when I don't bother with the little baggie I usually put over the graft.
So I'd be shocked if the cold fusion idea wouldn't work. Or even if the rate of success was especially low.
That said, it's much easier to just start a new seedling if you want a new rootstock. In fact, it's what I'd do any time I wanted to generate a 'clone'.
I know you can root topped cuttings - so the stress to the rootstock is unlikely to be an issue (grafting 'seals' the wound, so it's definitely less intense than outright topping).
I also know that grafts establish the ability to hydrate from the rootstock in less than three days - every graft I've had fail has withered by that point. Some even failing despite being adhered to the rootstock.
Perfect grafts also require very little additional humidity - I see over 50% take even when I don't bother with the little baggie I usually put over the graft.
So I'd be shocked if the cold fusion idea wouldn't work. Or even if the rate of success was especially low.
That said, it's much easier to just start a new seedling if you want a new rootstock. In fact, it's what I'd do any time I wanted to generate a 'clone'.
Darpa
Member
An interresting finding… it seem that the cultivar of the rootstock would have an influence on the flowering time of the grafts…. Fast flowering rootstock led to faster flowering graft compared to slow flowering rootstock with the same cut…. I would need more data to confirm this assumption… but it seem to be correct from a first trial….
Cheer
Darpa
Cheer
Darpa
F2F
Well-known member
Very cool Darpa! Can you comment on avg flowering time for each strain as individuals, and observed flower time for the grafts on the different rootstock?
Did you run anything the opposite way (slow rootstock/fast graft) or have other controls?
Best
F2F
I always used the latest maturing variety for the rootstock, if I used extra early varieties for the rootstock then the grafted branches did not finish flowering before the rootstock died back, before the late maturing grafted branches were done flowering.
The flowering response is mostly controlled locally by the flowers, so do not use earliest for rootstocks, it is not a good idea.
Same with males vs females of the same variety the male should not be used as the rootstock, use a late maturing female rootstock, than if you graft earlier male grafts to the female rootstock the male branches can flower with no or minimum effect on the rootstock.
I did this with Haze rootstocks with a dozen grafts of different maturing varieties, including early males. The Haze rootstock and a few of the Haze branches left on it were the last to flower, after all the earlier female and/or male grafts that were earlier maturing than the Haze. The worse rootstock is extra early maturing male rootstocks, they and their roots will want to die before the late maturing female grafts are all finished flowering.
I am not sure it is a good idea to try and speed up a late flowering variety by using an extra early female or early male rootstock, is it really faster maturation or is it unfinished maturation? I know you can speed up flowering by giving less than 10 hours of light a day but it does not produce the same yields or quality, and I do not suggest to do it.
-SamS
The flowering response is mostly controlled locally by the flowers, so do not use earliest for rootstocks, it is not a good idea.
Same with males vs females of the same variety the male should not be used as the rootstock, use a late maturing female rootstock, than if you graft earlier male grafts to the female rootstock the male branches can flower with no or minimum effect on the rootstock.
I did this with Haze rootstocks with a dozen grafts of different maturing varieties, including early males. The Haze rootstock and a few of the Haze branches left on it were the last to flower, after all the earlier female and/or male grafts that were earlier maturing than the Haze. The worse rootstock is extra early maturing male rootstocks, they and their roots will want to die before the late maturing female grafts are all finished flowering.
I am not sure it is a good idea to try and speed up a late flowering variety by using an extra early female or early male rootstock, is it really faster maturation or is it unfinished maturation? I know you can speed up flowering by giving less than 10 hours of light a day but it does not produce the same yields or quality, and I do not suggest to do it.
-SamS
