Canna Boost V Molasses - side by side comparison.

[indifferent]

rhizotonic is a root stimulator, it may well be based on seaweed extracts, but you extract different substances from seaweed to make a root stim than you do to make a plant vitality booster. There are different types of seaweeds and algaes that contain different substances. Spirulina green algae is full of amino acids for example, and Sargassum from thedeep sea is full of alginic acid and cytokinin. Ascophyllum Nodosum (Kelp) is full of minerals, vitamins and some aminos, mainly it is a source of iodine, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and iron. So 'seaweed extract' is a catch-all term, there are many types of seaweed extract. You see seaweed products such as Sea-Gel that are for water retention,those are made from Sargassum. Nitrozyme and Phyt-Amin have several types of seaweed in them.

6 months, 12 months, who cares, don't be pedantic, point is they claim to ferment some shit that goes in boost for a long time, I suspect it's soy beans, same as Biobizz use.

Did some research on what can be extracted from soy beans and the main substance is phospholipids, I posted all about those earlier in this thread.

There should be no need to have Boost analysed to find out it's ingredients. If a product is listed with a licensing body (and a fertiliser must be in order to be sold legally) then the ingredients must be declared to that body. Canna are a Dutch company, the ingredients of all their products will be known to the Dutch regulatory bodies and it will be published somewhere, just gotta find it. As canna is also sold in the US, the ingredients will have had to be declared to federal regulatory bodies, so it's just a case of digging up the info. Of course, the sources of the substances probably won;t be published, it will say things like 'humic acids of organic origin' but not state what origin exactly, could be liquid worm humus or extracted from lignitic coal deposits.

 

[jammie]

Thanks Gman
I did a search for: Super-Grow owned by US drug enforcement administration

I found absolutely nothing related to this inquiry.
Where did you hear this rumor and how reliable is it ?
It would be a shame to ruin a good company with a malicious unfounded rumor.

i've ordered stuff from them for several years now and there's never been a problem. i'm wondering if their competitor is spreading rumors because they can't compete on prices or quality

 

[indifferent]

I've been doing my research and so far, all I can definitely say about Canna Boost is that is has L-amino acids in it, they will have worked out which L-aminos are useful and what the correct proportions of them are, but I reckon adding a L-amino supplement from a fishing bait store or healthfood shop will also work.

I'm also pretty sure they put Triacontanol in it, but i doubt it's just L-Aminos and Triacontanol, there are my suspects for other ingredients:

Soy-derived Phospholipids
Humic/Fulvic Acids
Carbohydrates such as Citric Acid and Ascorbic Acid
Molasses

I already add humic/fulvic and use molasses, citric and ascorbic acid are cheap and commonly available.

So to make my own experimental version of boost I could begin with this recipe:

Triacontanol
Polysorbate 20
L-Amino Acids
Molasses

I could also add Lecithin for phospholipids and citric and ascorbic acid for carbohydrates. I also have cytokinin on the way from supergrow. I have kelp powder here too, could add some of that. I'd like to add fulvic acid, but try finding powdered fulvic acid for sale in the UK!

I am willing to make up a few small bottles of this stuff for others to try out, perhaps if we can get at least3 or 4 of us to try this stuff out, I'll make a batch up and mail some out to folks. Anyone interested? You would have to agree to post a full grow diary in a thread we start for the purpose.

 

[Badgermonkey]

A milligram is 1/1000 of a gram, not one millionth (1/1,000,000).

105mg is just over 1/10th of a gram, but you'd divide that by 3.5 for this example.

*milli = Latin for thousand; a million is one thousand thousand.

 

[~Shhh~]

Wow! That was some read!!

Thanks for the test hazy lady, I have some boost and was thinking I was suckered into buying it from the store guy... But reading this thread, all 42 pages has been somewhat reassuring.

How did the dark brown molasses sugar stuff turn out? I remember you saying it diluted well in cold water... Is regular blackstrap un-sulfured a PITA to dilute... I think many people go for hydro store products because of all the assing around mixing having to mix it alot of this stuff up?

I am using coco and drippers and was wondering if there would be any issues with molasses clogging drip lines, heads?

I may have missed this, but was there a consensus reached on how many ml's of blackstrap molasses per L of water was required?

Cheers!

BTW just a suggestion... that liquid light from dutchmaster sounds alot like canna bost, without the smell, taste enhancement that molasses seems to deliver... maybe a comparison between that with molasses & Canna's boost with molasses would be a good test, as the liquid light is much cheaper.

 

[*mistress*]

How did the dark brown molasses sugar stuff turn out? I remember you saying it diluted well in cold water... Is regular blackstrap un-sulfured a PITA to dilute... I think many people go for hydro store products because of all the assing around mixing having to mix it alot of this stuff up?

the results should be posted in this thread... maybe page or 2 back.

I am using coco and drippers and was wondering if there would be any issues with molasses clogging drip lines, heads?

no.
molasses is generally 99% water soluble. especially in slightly warm water. maybe mix/stir well in separate container, then add to res.
should be no particulate clogging.

I may have missed this, but was there a consensus reached on how many ml's of blackstrap molasses per L of water was required?

not really.
in imaginary garden, 15ml (1 tbsp) per gal. some use 1 teaspoon (5ml). some only use @ certain points in season.

sugar cane molasses general properties...
1. sugar matter
soluble carbohydrates (disaccharide and monosaccharide hexose sugars)

2. non-sugar organic matter
carbohydrates (starch), nitrogen compounds (flavor & smell of molasses) & organic acids (ieg, aconitic acid) & also fatty acids.

btw, (crude) protein/6.25=nitrogen content

3. mineral matter
calcium (up to 1%). phosphorus content low. sodium, potassium (as chlorides), magnesium and sulphur (minimal. usually by-product of processing). even when 'un-sulphured'...
trace minerals...
copper, zinc, iron, manganese, b1...

depending on source...

food & feed grades both applicable. feed grades generally contain more crude protein (nitrogen) + guaranteed analysis of all compounds.

used as chelating agent in many common fertilizers.

enjoy your garden!

 

[indifferent]

I've recently switched from food grade molasses in jars from the local healthfood store to feed grade in 5 litre jugs from the local animal feed place. The feed grade certainly seems to raise my ec more than the other stuff did. I don't measure how much molasses I use, I just pour a small glug of it into the 5 litres of water I feed daily, plants seem to like it.

 

[BPJR]

Is the animal grade suitable for our needs? Is it unsulphured blackstrap? I looked last night and there is a significant price difference between the two. Would be nice if is what we need.

Cheers,
b

 

[indifferent]

Yeah, it's the same stuff, lots of folks use it, especially those in rural areas where it's easy to just nip to the local animal feed place and buy a jug. I guess it's not so easy to find if you live in a city.

 

[Badgermonkey]

How much is that big jug?

 

[indifferent]

6 pound fifty mate, cheapest form of molasses you can buy, a jug that size lasts a couple of years unless you have a big multi-light grow.

 

[*mistress*]

feed grade molasses is relatively easy to find.
can be packaged as 'wildlife' molasses as well.

evolv*d habit*ts is widely distr... in most regular general stores/outdoor shops... >10 coins per gal.

enjoy your garden!

 

[Badgermonkey]

Thanks gang!

 

[Castelvetro]

u guys should try taking a spoon ful of this stuff yourselves a few times a week, great for the blood being so rich in iron, u might start craving it alittle.

 

[indifferent]

I was gifted three packets of An Carboload a while back. I've been using it as sugar in my co2 bottle as I think it's just Dextrose and molasses brings out flavours in my buds better. I just find it funny that the best use I have for Carboload is in a bottle of water with some yeast. Molasses rocks.

 

[Spanishwilly]

Hi ,
Is that right? My organic chemistry is pretty minimal (non-existent), but are these acids carbohydrates?

I've been doing my research and so far, all I can definitely say about Canna Boost is that is has L-amino acids in it, they will have worked out which L-aminos are useful and what the correct proportions of them are, but I reckon adding a L-amino supplement from a fishing bait store or healthfood shop will also work.

I'm also pretty sure they put Triacontanol in it, but i doubt it's just L-Aminos and Triacontanol, there are my suspects for other ingredients:

Soy-derived Phospholipids
Humic/Fulvic Acids
Carbohydrates such as Citric Acid and Ascorbic Acid
Molasses

I already add humic/fulvic and use molasses, citric and ascorbic acid are cheap and commonly available.

So to make my own experimental version of boost I could begin with this recipe:

Triacontanol
Polysorbate 20
L-Amino Acids
Molasses

I could also add Lecithin for phospholipids and citric and ascorbic acid for carbohydrates. I also have cytokinin on the way from supergrow. I have kelp powder here too, could add some of that. I'd like to add fulvic acid, but try finding powdered fulvic acid for sale in the UK!

I am willing to make up a few small bottles of this stuff for others to try out, perhaps if we can get at least3 or 4 of us to try this stuff out, I'll make a batch up and mail some out to folks. Anyone interested? You would have to agree to post a full grow diary in a thread we start for the purpose.

 

[indifferent]

My chemistry is non-existent to, but according to what I read, Citric Acid and Ascorbic Acid are carbohydrates. I know you can use citric acid as an organic ph down.

My Triacontanol, cytokinin and other goodies arrived in the post this morning.

 

[Badgermonkey]

I got some alfalfa meal and made some tea yesterday, foliared it today. It smells... different.

 

[*mistress*]

I was gifted three packets of An Carboload a while back. I've been using it as sugar in my co2 bottle as I think it's just Dextrose and molasses brings out flavours in my buds better. I just find it funny that the best use I have for Carboload is in a bottle of water with some yeast. Molasses rocks.

sprinkling 1/4 tsp of baking soda onto the top of the diy co2 may excite, then stabilize the diffusion of the gas...

pouring out & replacing (w/ fresh raw materials) 1/4-1/2 of the solution every week will also maintain the batch...

yes, molasses is used extensively to make rum...

even if dont consume diy c02 mix, adding raw potato & handfull of rice will keep starches/sugars, in solid form, in solution... for yeast to eat.

~1# of sugar weekly, for every gal of solution... keep warm, out of light & in front of/behind fan (on 'high') blowing over/under canopy... ideally, in 5 gal container, w/ hose manifold going over plants... or in thermoses, affixed to ceiling, so heaver c02 can fall down over plants...

they like c02 on underside of leaf too, so having lateral laminar air flow - between top of media & bottom of canopy - also+++. more stomata on underside of leaf than top...

My Triacontanol, cytokinin and other goodies arrived in the post this morning.

youll like how the tween 20 makes the solution 'wetter' & breaks surface tension of the leaf/flowerws & permits permeation of the stomata...

nice to see a solution moving up the leaf & into the flowers... instead of rolling off the leaf & onto the floor.
surfacants+++! makes the solution 'stick' to the leaf surface.

will you use ea item individually, or mix them all together?

recall that effective tria application is ~1 microgram per liter... foliar sprayed 1-2 times... that's it.

accurate measuring device?

good fortunes!

enjoy your garden!

 

[indifferent]

Mistress, may I say, your posts always give me precisely the info I need mixed with just enough real-world experience and practical advice that I try to absorb them all completely. Many thanks and keep it up!

At the moment I am using Doff Tomato Growth Accelerator spray on vegging plants and on plants placed into flower from day 1 until first buds appear, spraying every other day. Seems to be working good. No idea what's in this spray but it's organic and very highly regarded in tomato growing circles. I got 5 bottles for 9.99 a while back and have used half, when I have run out of it I will start making my own sprays. I think my initial recipe will be:

Seaweed Extract
Castille Soap (wetting agent, also has some phosphoric acid in it)
Cytokinin
Triacontanol
Polysorbate 20
Molasses

I might also add some L-aminos in the form of Minamino liquid from the fishing bait store.

I also bought a bottle of Plagron Phyt-Amin cos I saw it for 4 ukp on eBay and I have had great success with other Plagron products in the past.

Plagron Phyt-Amin contains natural hormones for both the growing and flowering stages and exerts a stimulating effect throughout the whole cycle.

* Although plants have other needs during the flowering phase than during the growth period, there are essential hormones that are of vital importance throughout the entire cycle.
* To provide the plants with as much of these important materials as efficiently as possible, Plagron has developed an organic spraying agent that enables you to apply the finishing touches every week.
* The effect of Phyt-Amin is extreme, the cytokinin content increases the chlorophyll content in the leaf.
* The result of this is an increased sugar content.
* The plants therefore stay green for longer, have extra resistance, produce more shoots and buds and also more fruit.
* The use of Plagron Phyt-Amin also causes a film to form over the plant's leave, which protects the plant from drying out.
* Directions of use: 5ml per litre of water.

I'm not sure what the exact ingredients of Phyt-Amin are, it's mostly seaweed I think and has Cytokinin. The Amin part of the name suggests either vitamins or aminos, probably aminos. I also picked up a bottle of superthrive cheap, so I could do a side-by-side where I spray some plants with Phyt-Amin and Superthrive and others with my DIY concoction.