Canna Boost V Molasses - side by side comparison.

[Lazyman]

Hey GS, I was told by a wise older grower that you can use your res nutes, diluted to about 1/2 strength as a good foliar feed. I use that and liquid light, and some floramite to keep things green and healthy. I also use Purple Max and Gravity as foliar sprays, much frostier results than without!

 

[*mistress*]

i am very interested to hear more...
the way i have been learned (haha) to grow it was inbedded into my thick skull that foliar feeding was unneccessary. so i have some sort of prejudice against foliar stuff. it sucks, but its true...

anyhooo.... a couple shops that i frequent reccomended using Boost as a foliar - especially right when the flowers form. what i have been told about foliar feeding boost is that is the equivelant of 'mainlining steriods' while traditional root feedings of boost are more like 'taking a steriod pill'....

in a nutshell, from what i have been told (by shop heads, gasp! they are only trying to sell me something haha. the same shop heads that turned me onto boost btw) is that foliar feeding with boost at first sight of flowers is supposed to be a good thing and produce way more results than just root feeding.

so i have heard....

Hey GS, I was told by a wise older grower that you can use your res nutes, diluted to about 1/2 strength as a good foliar feed. I use that and liquid light, and some floramite to keep things green and healthy. I also use Purple Max and Gravity as foliar sprays, much frostier results than without!

increasing ph of foliar feed to 7.0+ ph will permit permeation of the leaves. leaves prefer alkaline solutions to get thru.

nitrogen gets thru & is very active, quicker than other nutes, so adding little n to the mix allows other nutes to piggy-back on the charge.

in imaginary garden, folair feed @ 1/4 strength of feed, or ~>250ppm/ph 7.0+/~>.4 ec... up until week 6...

1 per week. also wash down w/ h202 1 per week, in separate bottle. this is general disinfectant & oxidizer of static/dust/airborne garbage on leaves, stem, etc...

foliar feeding real good @ dawn, prior to stomata opening... w/ low light & low temps...

after foliar, plants should be 100% dry in >5 minutes... in fictitious garden, w/ lots of laminar & turbulent circulation, 10x10x10++ room dry in 2 min.

good dehumidification very good after folair... will decrease vapor pressure deficit. this allows roots to resume transporting water up & out of plant. if too much water remains on leaves & in air, issue may arise. get rid of excess water in atmosphere so plant can push out water again. & re-balance internal/external water pressures & begin transpiring again...

if dont have voracious airflow - would not @ all foliar during flowering... if dont have rh (vpd) in order & controllable, would not foliar unless hold fan on crop to dry >5 min...

these may be helpful... apologies for being off-topic Hazy Lady...

Ultimate Foliar Feeding Recipe

Foliar feeding in flowering
*edit*
pro-tekt excellent for ph up to 7.0+ in spray bottle. couple drops @ a time... very concentrated. also adds silica & potassium

have used couple drops of baby oil (unscented) as surfacant. is just mineral oil & spreads on/under leaves...

hope this helps...

enjoy your garden!

 

[Hazy Lady]

Chopping tonight

Chopping tonight

Thursday Night/Friday morning. Looks like the MJ Gods have been appeased and this group of ladies have all but finished, The last plants to reach the harvest window are just there now. So it's time to kill!. I'll comment on where each pair is, as we get to them. I have them in my place now and will post some pics shortly, and then more as I finish trimming them, I am hoping.......

Saturday Morning Well, that was as far as last nights post got, without going into detail my oldest friend is seriously ill and took a very bad turn last night so I went to be with her.
I still have 2½ of 8 plants still need trimming, I will do them now and post some pics asap I finish. I am sorry for anyone waiting, won't be too long. Back Soon

 

[Strangely]

We can wait Hazy. Hope your friend is ok.

 

[Texicannibus]

Sorry to hear about your friend Hazy hope things improve. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Positive karma your way =)

 

[*mistress*]

take care sister...
& take good care of your sister...
ic can/will wait.

enjoy your garden!

 

[Hazy Lady]

Many thanks

Many thanks

We can wait Hazy. Hope your friend is ok.

Sorry to hear about your friend Hazy hope things improve. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Positive karma your way =)

take care sister...
& take good care of your sister...
ic can/will wait.

enjoy your garden!

Thank-you so much, I wish I could say my friend was better but it isn't so at the moment she knows about this test so with luck she can catch up when she's able.

I want to come back to the foliar feeding discussion I missed, I have a terrible habit of forgetting to go back to things so if I don't mention foliar feeding after the 'harvest' posts are over could someone nudge me

Again many thanks for the kind words, they mean a great deal to me.

 

[Hazy Lady]

Harvest @ 80 days

Harvest @ 80 days

First, please excuse the delay, thank-you for the kind words.
Straight on with the chopping, I have taken the usual pictures I open with, before fans were removed, I'll post these and then we can look at the buds/crystals in some detail.
Below, All groups, A,B,C & D at 80 days

As you can see the plants are pretty N deficient by now, they had a full 3 week flush which will have help though I believe the plants are losing their immunity to sickness, I had the bud the fell out, Pic below, also when I had finished the chopping I noticed a small amount of grey mould an inch below the top of a B - Boost cola, Pic also below. I am unsure why this happened but the plants have been bunched together almost a whole day when I have to leave the plants a while.
None of the other plants have any mold that I can see but I am really checking, I was hoping to slow the dry down to as near to 14 days (before jar/cure stage) I left the plants whole for this reason, and it takes less labels!, I will have to just see how things go now, I will still go slow but any more rot I will speed up somewhat. On the labels for a mo', all plants have 2 sticky labels, they are taken off the pot and attached to the plant before I sever and I write another 4 or 5 with a felt pen on the stalk itself to ensure I don't mix them up.
Below, touch of budrot

Below, disappearing bud?

Next Post. More from harvest day ( just grabbing some tea )

 

[Hazy Lady]

Harvest @ 80 days cont'

Harvest @ 80 days cont'

I had been watcing the crystals all week waiting for the A's and C's to catch up, they did reach 100% milky. I had expected to see more amber trichs on the B's and D's but they just have not shown, the mother of these plants only ever had 25% amber and I kept 1/2 of her going 16 weeks so perhaps I shouldn't be too surprised. The D crystals that started pumping out a while back have ended up obviously fatter than any other group. In the pics below you can see the difference between the crystals.

Below all plants chopped at 80 days.

Next Post, close-ups, gimme 5

 

[Hazy Lady]

Harvest @ 80 days cont' some more

Harvest @ 80 days cont' some more

Below, all groups

 

[Londinium]

Great thread...I use a Boost(not canna and at 3/4 strength for 2 weeks then 1/2 strength for 2wks) for last 4 weeks b4 flush. I use Vitrasol(sugarbeet extract) similar to molasses but with a better NPK ratio and vits,for last 2 weeks pre-flush at 3ml per 10L,then I week of just water and 2ml Vitrasol then final week (or 2) just water.I dont feel the need for Vitrasol or Molasses before that as its most valuable as a plant runs out of carbs(last 3rd of bloom) and to help convert starches to sugars more efficiently as plant hangs and dies.
Re foxtails...This girl PPxSkaze deffo Corns up or stacks due to Inherited Genes and can be coaxed to do it more drastically with diff environs!but don't necessarily think thats truly Foxtailing...I believe thats when calyxes or small bunches of them actually poke right out on individual storks like Quaze or many Asian or Haze strains show....making very wispy buds.

Luck'n'Lumens JBo ;]

 

[indifferent]

Great work my dear!

The pics do a good job of showing the differences. To my eye it looks like the Boost buds are a lil bit chunkier and the calyxes a wee bit more swollen, like it's been flowered a week longer almost. The extra resin from the Boost can be seen, but you have to look for it, it's not all that apparent to my eyes from the pics, maybe the difference is more pronounced in the flesh, so to speak?

The Boost + Molasses looks probably the best to me, but it is how the molasses and boost have affected the taste, quality of smoke etc that I am really keen to see.

So it looks like Boost works, but to me, not enough difference to justify the cost. Maybe the benefits vary from strain to strain and it boosts some genes more than others?

 

[Calimed]

The D's definitely have a tiny bit more crystals than the rest. It'll be interesting to see how they all smoke!

 

[Hazy Lady]

I spray I spray I spray what BS did the old grower tell his eager student?

I spray I spray I spray what BS did the old grower tell his eager student?

i am very interested to hear more...
the way i have been learned (haha) to grow it was embedded into my thick skull that foliar feeding was unnecessary. so i have some sort of prejudice against foliar stuff. it sucks, but its true...

anyhooo.... a couple shops that i frequent recommended using Boost as a foliar - especially right when the flowers form. what i have been told about foliar feeding boost is that is the equivalent of 'mainlining steriods' while traditional root feedings of boost are more like 'taking a steriod pill'....

in a nutshell, from what i have been told (by shop heads, gasp! they are only trying to sell me something haha. the same shop heads that turned me onto boost btw) is that foliar feeding with boost at first sight of flowers is supposed to be a good thing and produce way more results than just root feeding.

so i have heard....

This 'Master Grower' who told you that, I would like to embed something in his thick skull, help him to understand making facts up this way, have helped many would-be growers give up after their first (failed) attempt. I am glad he didn't stop you becoming a very knowledgeable grower GS

I want to see a test of foliar fed Boosters among other things, check out my next post for more on that I am apealing for members members for a group I want to start. If I can ever start the thing?, I don't see how to and ICMag - 'contact us' will not reply? anyone know how? don't be shy .

increasing ph of foliar feed to 7.0+ ph will permit permeation of the leaves. leaves prefer alkaline solutions to get thru.

nitrogen gets thru & is very active, quicker than other nutes, so adding little n to the mix allows other nutes to piggy-back on the charge.

in imaginary garden, folair feed @ 1/4 strength of feed, or ~>250ppm/ph 7.0+/~>.4 ec... up until week 6...

1 per week. also wash down w/ h202 1 per week, in separate bottle. this is general disinfectant & oxidizer of static/dust/airborne garbage on leaves, stem, etc...

foliar feeding real good @ dawn, prior to stomata opening... w/ low light & low temps...

after foliar, plants should be 100% dry in >5 minutes... in fictitious garden, w/ lots of laminar & turbulent circulation, 10x10x10++ room dry in 2 min.

good dehumidification very good after folair... will decrease vapor pressure deficit. this allows roots to resume transporting water up & out of plant. if too much water remains on leaves & in air, issue may arise. get rid of excess water in atmosphere so plant can push out water again. & re-balance internal/external water pressures & begin transpiring again...

if dont have voracious airflow - would not @ all foliar during flowering... if dont have rh (vpd) in order & controllable, would not foliar unless hold fan on crop to dry >5 min...

these may be helpful... apologies for being off-topic Hazy Lady...

Ultimate Foliar Feeding Recipe

Foliar feeding in flowering
*edit*
pro-tekt excellent for ph up to 7.0+ in spray bottle. couple drops @ a time... very concentrated. also adds silica & potassium

have used couple drops of baby oil (unscented) as surfacant. is just mineral oil & spreads on/under leaves...

hope this helps...

enjoy your garden!

You're never off topic *m* Your post is super, very good information and both links are interesting threads.
I have always used foliar feeding (FF) for seedlings and cuttings, it's great way to safely apply food to tender youngsters.
For sick plants it is invaluable, I use for the first 4 days of any deficit as a temp' solution until the root applied remedy kicks in, it is a great way to quickly stop known ill's.
There is an excellent 3 page PDF HERE It goes someway to explaining why many don't believe foliar feeding to be of any use at all, as GS's friend is/was?. It goes through the myths and fact's of foliar feeding, not cannabis based and not too long but still very relevant information proving the usefulness of FF, plus a little history lesson nute companies could learn from.
I happen to have a few SSH males hanging around in my flower room, I need to be honest and admit to being lazy - twice, one they are in tiny seedling cups but are 14/15inches high, and secondly I was getting fed-up feeding them every few minutes, well it seemed it , I was giving water for a week or so, no food and last week they looked rough, I wanted to see how effective Alg-A-Mc was and so I fed all plants through roots but 2 I foliar fed, one Maxi-crop, one Maxi-crop plus Alg-A-Mic. I wasn't setting out to prove foliar feeding works but this picture does indeed show that foliar feed is very quick, the sprayed plants have recovered fully in 4 days, the root-fed are only just starting to get greener. I picked a lower, greener leaf too for the picture. Have a look, and if you didn't already? get a spray!

 

[Hazy Lady]

Great thread...I use a Boost(not canna and at 3/4 strength for 2 weeks then 1/2 strength for 2wks) for last 4 weeks b4 flush. I use Vitrasol(sugarbeet extract) similar to molasses but with a better NPK ratio and vits,for last 2 weeks pre-flush at 3ml per 10L,then I week of just water and 2ml Vitrasol then final week (or 2) just water.I dont feel the need for Vitrasol or Molasses before that as its most valuable as a plant runs out of carbs(last 3rd of bloom) and to help convert starches to sugars more efficiently as plant hangs and dies.
Re foxtails...This girl PPxSkaze deffo Corns up or stacks due to Inherited Genes and can be coaxed to do it more drastically with diff environs!but don't necessarily think thats truly Foxtailing...I believe thats when calyxes or small bunches of them actually poke right out on individual storks like Quaze or many Asian or Haze strains show....making very wispy buds.

Luck'n'Lumens JBo ;]

Hello there stranger I hope you're well?
Have you always ran your booster in conjunction with a sugar product or did you use your booster alone?, just wondering if you found a difference as I seem to have?
I see what you mean, yours are fox 'brushes'!, think you can still class yours as fox tails though, fattest you'll ever see but still fox-tails imo I blew one up for us to have a good look at, she looks lovely JB, thank-you for dropping by, it's very nice to see you here.

Great work my dear!

The pics do a good job of showing the differences. To my eye it looks like the Boost buds are a lil bit chunkier and the calyxes a wee bit more swollen, like it's been flowered a week longer almost. The extra resin from the Boost can be seen, but you have to look for it, it's not all that apparent to my eyes from the pics, maybe the difference is more pronounced in the flesh, so to speak?

The Boost + Molasses looks probably the best to me, but it is how the molasses and boost have affected the taste, quality of smoke etc that I am really keen to see.

So it looks like Boost works, but to me, not enough difference to justify the cost. Maybe the benefits vary from strain to strain and it boosts some genes more than others?

Hi Indi' Your estimation of around a week seems about right, the two groups receiving Boost also have larger overall bud size, with seemingly more crystal coverage (see end of this post) Whenever I am weighing up if a product is worth the expence of late, I keep coming back to what I insist on calling the Greyskull Principle* if you could harvest a week earlier, you may fit in an extra crop per year!, add to that any increase in yield, however slight you would have to conclude using Boost can pay. That does not take into account any increase in quality, (again, please see end of post)
I will be sampling some quick dried bud from each group in a few days so we will get the first idea of the various smokes.

The D's definitely have a tiny bit more crystals than the rest. It'll be interesting to see how they all smoke!

Hi Calimed , you are correct, they do have , well what I thought was a little more crystal coverage until harvest day. As I said above I will be doing early smoke testing in a few days time, do come back eh!.

EDIT FROM HARVEST DAY POST

I meant to say this the other day but I have been pre-occupied somewhat!,sorry for that. Now, simply because of the way pics were taken etc I trimmed the plants in order, a b c then d, I needed to remove the scissor hash around 4 times on the A plants, the B's twice as many, easy 8 times, I had my brother here and as he was keeping me in tea and cooking up the snowballs hahaha! TEA just TEA, I allowed him to take the scissor hash to make a couple of joints, only after I started smoking one did it dawn on me I should have kept them to compare but it was too late!.

I carried on the C's took only 3 cleanings, the C's were not so devoid of resin it was the size and amount of bud that accounted for the lowest amount. The D's were just too much, I had to clean them so often it wasn't funny, so I am now certain that the Boost with Molasses produces the fastest, largest, best smelling, strongest smelling, resinous buds of the groups, the B's are close behind but nothing comes close to the D's for sheer stickiness, we will see how they smoke very soon

I also forgot to post this picture, the other day, I am afraid it is a little deceptive.
The C's though are as they really are, slimmer than the other groups!. The B's appear a lot bigger overall than the D's, this is not the case, in reality they are a similar size overall.
When drier I can chop away the bare wood and we can concentrate on the colas, I will demonstrate the differences, and before I remove and arrange 8 single buds if it is the last thing I do!
Below, here is the pic anyway

* 'The Greyskull Principle' :- "a slight, seemingly worthless increase, that when factored over multiple plants, tables or harvests can in fact be judged worthwhile"
Adopted & adapted from a post by brother Greyskull http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php...5&postcount=80

 

[Hazy Lady]

Calling all Coco nuts / Starting a test-based group / Canna on Boost/Boosters.

Calling all Coco nuts / Starting a test-based group / Canna on Boost/Boosters.

I had planned to do a repeat of this side by side early into this one, to confirm the results but using another strain, I'll add a few more tests in so it won't be a boring copy of this 1st one.
I have enjoyed doing this so much I am going to keep doing them beyond the second run, with a little more thought I could have made life a little easier for myself, and easier for thread readers to compare plant pics using smaller, single stemmed cuts, things like that! I reckon you need to run a test to iron things out. Until someone standardises grow tests, like the smoke report blanks!
Anywhooo, I got to thinking about different tests and how many differences there are between organic and hydroponic growing, how test results could be very different?. I ended up imagining asking more questions than ever instead of answering them.
With this in mind I decided to keep this group for coco growers (hydro growers in general would be ok) results could be adjusted for all hydro methods, in theory at least?
Also, if tests are run using coco it is basically the same medium the world over. Favourable results/findings should be easily applied & replicated for coco growers anywhere.
More and more new growers are starting their grow lives using coco.
I know people like Indi are already planning/running tests, I am sure he will join , it would be good if anyone else could join in and share their grow tests.
'Imaginary gardeners' like our sister *mistress* would be a wonderful addition to the debates at the very least! hint hint, few people research as much as our *m* does
To join the group of course you don't need to be a grower, be an expert, be a mason! just be alert our group will need lerts.
I have a couple of friends I made here that will join, both good young growers keen to learn more and a couple I think would join, and be good for the group.
I was thinking between us we could list the most common causes of confusion and work them to a proper outcome, it need not cost any extra for those short on funds - thats everyone covered!, I was reminded earlier thanks to Greyskull , tests such as foliar feeding the various products could keep more than a few busy for a number of grows at no extra cost, maybe cheaper and more effective? see!, we need a test
I am still waiting for some nutrient company to offer me some samples I need to re post my emails, makes me wonder if they have no confidence in their products?.

I don't know who gets C letters from Canna, it is worth signing up to Canna site, they have a ton of grow info and reference papers. this is from this weeks :-


With this C-letter we would like to give you more information on Boosters. There exist a lot of myths, hypes and true/false stories about these kind of products. There are actually companies selling “Boosters” which in fact aren’t that at all!! So read from the company that knows best and use this information to your best advantage!!

BOOSTERS HYPE OR HOPE?

Let’s face it, this is the mantra of UK growers. There are so many self identified ‘boosters’ out there it would take a super computer to count them...
...the problem is, only a few are true metabolism boosters, which is what a booster should be. Most are either additional nutrients, organic compounds, or simply an extract of someone’s old socks! One company we know actually markets three different products that contain exactly the same ingredients, only they changed the names to protect the innocent ;-).
A booster acts independently from the nutrients, enabling the plant’s own systems to work at optimal levels while leaving no footprint or excess baggage behind. Boosters work by influencing plant systems, sometimes by triggering desired responses such as an auto-immune response, or by increasing specific essential oil production.

Few are true metabolism boosters
ENERGY IS KEY...

There are many routes to get there. You can overdose a particular component and hope that a runaway reaction occurs. You can morph a system to produce more of one thing or another; you can interjecting a component directly through translaminar or transcellular migration, or you can alter the plant genetically. None of these methods are particularly effective, consistent or benign, and some are even dangerous. The problem is we only affect one part of a system while ignoring the rest. The best way to boost yield is to affect all the systems with the one component common to all systems, energy.

By affecting the energy pathways, from production to translocation, from storage to utilization, we can affect all systems equally. Therefore, the best booster would be one that affects all systems and allows them to utilize energy at the most optimal rate possible. And besides this, it should be one that works with the plants existing systems, causes no imbalances, produces no mutations, works within the plants own framework, and leaves nothing behind that is toxic or allergenic.

The booster should also allow energy to be metabolized easily, moved quickly, utilized as needed, and never limited. In enabling this the plant has all the energy it could ever need to produce flowers and to mature; to produce desirable compounds such as oils and alkaloids; to perform rapid and extended photosynthesis; to effectively store and release components when needed, such as starch; to produce stronger, faster dividing cells; and have better respiration processes in the plant cell. The only thing that would improve this magic elixir would be if it were composed in such a way that it only significantly affects particular areas so that overproduction of the desired components would not
alter or tax the plants other systems. This is because our energy is now free flowing and available whenever and wherever the plant needs it.

CONTINUED NEXT POST

 

[Hazy Lady]

BOOSTERS : HYPE OR HOPE? Continued.

BOOSTERS : HYPE OR HOPE? Continued.

" One company actually has 3 products that are exactly the same products, only the names were changed"

FREE FLOWING, FULLY FUNCTIONAL...

By using the right plant components, and combining them with the correct decomposition process it might even be possible to take advantage of other desired results such as triggering the plants natural immune systems, a kind of vaccination. We might even be able to trigger heavier flower and oil production by mimicking specific stressors, or change the ratios of internal compounds to generate more of what the market is after and less of what is ineffective. We might also be able to affect the way structural and chemical compounds are laid down so that cells become larger or oils and saps become denser. Well, truth is, there are two boosters now that do exactly this.

TRIGGERING NATURE


Healthily immune system
CannaResearch, CANNA’s research and development wing has developed two booster products, “BioBoost” and “CANNABOOST Accelerator”. These products are almost identical; BioBoost is organic with nothing inorganic added and CANNABOOST has an added component that is inorganic but pure. The use of this component in the Boost kicks it into high gear so that the results are rapid and big. BioBoost manifests itself in a slower manner, but it is the perfect answer for those wanting to stay 100% organic and compliments BIOCANNA’s BioVega, BioFlores nutrients. BioBoost will work in all systems in the same way as CANNABOOST. Both products affect the plant's energy systems as described, and the organic component gives the part that would be nice.
A significant part of both products is the oligosaccharines that result from the breakdown of the bio components. These are basically small protein chains and cell wall chains that mimic enzymes, hormones and growth regulators. They stimulate key aspects in a plant such as its immune system (which turns on and acts as a preventer), alkaloid and essential oil production. They also influence protein synthesis allowing the cells to become denser, and strongly trigger the ‘organic’ taste in consumed plant components.

So, instead of trying to find many products to do the same thing (which can’t be done anyway), a grower can invest in CANNABOOST and BioBoost and get them all in one package. What many growers fail to realize is it's not how many different items you put into the tank, but what you put in the tank. All too often, growers become excited by the hype and advertising promises instead of taking time to do the one thing that would guarantee their success, learn how to grow.
Growing is not buying a machine where you plug in seeds at one end, a growing medium in the middle, and out pops a completed harvest at the other. This process seems similar to the digestive system, and the results are usually the same. Growing is carefully balancing ALL the needs of the plant, food, water, light, humidity, temperature, and grower temperament. There is no one solution for any plant, location, environment, situation or grower. A grower has to be hands on and on top of the process from the design of the greenhouse/field / room to selecting the plants, growing on, and harvesting.
The only magic in growing is the grower.

100% organic or 100% PURE

So if you feel your garden needs help, it just is not the same anymore, the plants are tired, or you are tired, then change. Change the medium, change the cycle, change the container, change the plant, change your knowledge base, or change the grower: but don’t run into that never ending hunt, don't start experimenting to see how many different additives a plant will tolerate before it morphs into the alien from Little Shop of Horrors. Everything you put into the root system adds up. They will interact creating an unknown recipe in your slurry. You will have no more control over the salts, you will overdose the silicates; will it lead to vitamin toxicity. Look for the solution in how the crop is treated, and get that right first. Then use the simplest, cleanest feed possible that does not require 5, 10 or more additives. After all, it is a poor grower that blames his/her tools; knowledge is the key to success.

 

[onegreenday]

It's pretty easy to see if foliar helps.
You spray one day and you should see a boost soon.

You can alternate foliar products and gauge how they work.

Got a good spray bottle at home depot for $4.

It's ZEP professional and the pump barrel is
wider & sturdier than reg sprayers.

Nice strong spray. give foliar a try.......

 

[*mistress*]

nice concept for a club......

experimental/test lab/advanced techniques sub-forum......
any media. any technique(s)...

1st moderator:
Hazy Lady...

enjoy your garden!

 

[Hazy Lady]

It's pretty easy to see if foliar helps.
You spray one day and you should see a boost soon.

You can alternate foliar products and gauge how they work.

Got a good spray bottle at home depot for $4.

It's ZEP professional and the pump barrel is
wider & sturdier than reg sprayers.

Nice strong spray. give foliar a try.......

Hey hey, ogd I am looking forward to seeing Boost foliar fed, and Boost plus Molasses especially the way the test has gone. As you may have seen? I love it! foliar feeding I mean, check out the PDF I posted, its only short but some interesting stuff.

nice concept for a club......

experimental/test lab/advanced techniques sub-forum......
any media. any technique(s)...

1st moderator:
Hazy Lady...

enjoy your garden!

Aww, thank-you, I can't start one for 12 month *m*, you are sweet, I got Mrs Babba on the case, she sorted me out regarding requirements, actually Mrs B invited me into her group though, that was so nice! It really cheered me up.
If anyone has a year in and 1000 posts who is thinking about starting one along the test lines? a few here will certainly join in.

Smoke testing tomorrow *m*, the early sample smoke, I must say they all smelled good right through the last 4/5 days or so, I normally find an awful smell early on in the dry but not found it this time?.
I could not risk slowing the dry down as much as I would have liked, that budrot stopped that plan, still I think I can stretch 8/9 days before I need to jar it, I found no more rot thank goodness, I had them on a line as you would normally hang them, but still complete plants, but since I am sure its beyond any rot I have placed them in a bouquet to keep the moisture in there a bit longer.
I took 4 little stems to make sure they're dry to smoke tomorrow, all equal sized from similar part of plant, they are already 'chewy' from the sugars but still leave little snail trails from the resin, I had to alco-swab my mouse pad clean earlier
Back tomorrow when I will make even less ense than usual with a bit of luck