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Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc...

Phenome

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ICMag Donor
So you're unsure of whether or not it was safe to smoke is what you're saying...

Jorge is a non-credible source of info amongst the cannabis community (not the stoners, the actual community). This method is delusional at best, and unsafe no matter how much H202 you dump on the flowers. It doesn't go away if you turn it into concentrate either... it just becomes more toxic. But way to go! smh

There are thousands of articles on the use of h202 on tobacco plants.
So many different findings that would maybe interest you.
Why exactly is it harmful to use hydrogen peroxide?
I was under the impression that when hydrogen peroxide reacts with organic material, it breaks down into water and oxygen.
Please explain what facts have brought you to this opinion. I'm truley interested.

Jorge is credible in my opinion.... His books are very informative with solid facts. He has worked with some of the best minds in the industry.
In person is a really nice dude too...
 

Vert2Go

New member
So you're unsure of whether or not it was safe to smoke is what you're saying...

Jorge is a non-credible source of info amongst the cannabis community (not the stoners, the actual community). This method is delusional at best, and unsafe no matter how much H202 you dump on the flowers. It doesn't go away if you turn it into concentrate either... it just becomes more toxic. But way to go! smh

Here is something from the Agricultural Dept. of Cornell University and I think that they may beg to differ with you regarding Agricultural usage of Hydrogen Peroxide. Of course if you think that Cornell University is not a credible source then please disregard!:) Cheers, Pippa

From Cornell University Dept. of Agriculture.
http://web.pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/r...for-organic-insect-and-disease-management.pdf
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen Peroxide, Hydrogen Dioxide[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]MATERIAL NAME: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen Peroxide, Hydrogen Dioxide[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]MATERIAL TYPE: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Inorganic chemical[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]U.S EPA TOXICITY CATEGORY: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I, “Danger”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]USDA-NOP: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Synthetic, allowed with restrictions. May be used for plant disease control or as an algaecide, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]disinfectant, or sanitizer if the requirements of 205.206(e) are met. Preventive, cultural, me[/FONT][FONT=&quot]chanical, and physical methods must be first choice for pest control, and conditions for use of a biological or botanical material must be documented in the organic system plan (NOP 2000). [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]May be used as an adjuvant or inert ingredient in passive pheromone dispensers.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]MATERIAL DESCRIPTION[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen peroxide is an odorless, colorless liquid. Aqueous solutions are used at a range of[/FONT][FONT=&quot] concentrations for bleaching paper, fabric, hair, and food; as a disinfectant and antiseptic; and in sewage and wastewater treatment. An 80% solution is used in rocket propulsion (Patniak [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2003). Products with concentrations between 27 and 33% are used for surface sterilization and [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]plant disease management in agricultural settings[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. These products are diluted to concentra[/FONT][FONT=&quot]tions between 1:100 and 1:300 for use as surface disinfectants for non-porous surfaces and for [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]soil, plant drench, or foliar applications.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]HOW IT WORKS: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidizing agent. It reacts with substances with which it comes[/FONT][FONT=&quot] into contact by taking electrons. Rust and fire are both oxidative processes. When living tissue or microorganisms come into contact with oxidizing agents, the cell membrane is oxidized and [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]disrupted, causing the cell to break open and die. Hydrogen peroxide is reactive and short-[/FONT][FONT=&quot]lived in the environment and has no residual activity (HERA 2005). [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]TYPES OF PESTS IT CONTROLS[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen peroxide is a general disinfectant, killing microorganisms with which it comes into[/FONT][FONT=&quot] contact. Some formulations are labeled for foliar applications to plants in order to control bac[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]-terial and fungal pathogens[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. Product labels include a wide variety of crops and a wide variety[/FONT][FONT=&quot] of pests. Some formulations are labeled for use in irrigation lines to control soil-borne patho[/FONT][FONT=&quot]gens[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. Other formulations are labeled for surface disinfection of greenhouse structures, pots, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]benches, and tools. Some formulations are labeled for both uses.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]FORMULATIONS AND APPLICATION GUIDELINES[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydrogen peroxide is generally available as a 27%-33% concentrate liquid formulation that is[/FONT][FONT=&quot] diluted for foliar application and surface sterilization. It works best when diluted with water that contains low levels of organic or inorganic materials and a neutral pH. Tanks should be[/FONT][FONT=&quot] thoroughly rinsed with water before mixing. Hydrogen peroxide mixes readily with water with [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]no settling. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Various dilution guidelines exist for different uses:[/FONT]
§
[FONT=&quot]May be used as a pre-plant dip treatment for control of damping-off, root rot, and stem [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]rot diseases at a 1:100 dilution.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Organic Resource Guide [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]129[/FONT]
§
[FONT=&quot]May be used at a 1:100 dilution as a soil drench at the time of seeding or transplanting,[/FONT][FONT=&quot]or as a periodic treatment for control of soil-borne diseases. [/FONT]
§
[FONT=&quot]Foliar treatments for control of fungal and bacterial pathogens are applied at a 1:100 to[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 1:300 dilutions. Test a few plants for sensitivity before spraying an entire field. [/FONT]
§
[FONT=&quot]For disinfestation of clean, non-porous surfaces, such as pots, flats, trays, cutting tools,[/FONT][FONT=&quot] benches and work areas, equipment, and structures, use at a dilution of 1:100 to 1:300. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Remove soil and plant debris from surfaces before appl[FONT=&quot]ying.


[/FONT][/FONT]
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
There are thousands of articles on the use of h202 on tobacco plants.
So many different findings that would maybe interest you.
Why exactly is it harmful to use hydrogen peroxide?
I was under the impression that when hydrogen peroxide reacts with organic material, it breaks down into water and oxygen.
Please explain what facts have brought you to this opinion. I'm truley interested.

Jorge is credible in my opinion.... His books are very informative with solid facts. He has worked with some of the best minds in the industry.
In person is a really nice dude too...

A search of scientific literature quickly showed that where H2O2 treatments have been tested directly against plant, animal and human
pathogens, at rates up to 5%, it was not effective in reducing bacterial or fungal spore populations. (Labeled rates for foliar application of a hydrogen dioxide product currently marketed for plant disease control range from 0.09 0.27%.)
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
You didn't answer my question
You were saying, how harmful it was, and how after making concentrates there is high residual amounts of somthing toxic left....
Was just curious.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
Oh ok. I figured we were all on the same page with that when we clicked into the pm thread.
I assumed everything you said was about ver2go recommending h202.
I must need new glasses
 

Vert2Go

New member
A search of scientific literature quickly showed that where H2O2 treatments have been tested directly against plant, animal and human
pathogens, at rates up to 5%, it was not effective in reducing bacterial or fungal spore populations. (Labeled rates for foliar application of a hydrogen dioxide product currently marketed for plant disease control range from 0.09 0.27%.)


I see you are quoting the observations of Sally Miller at OSU who was involved in some sort of extension Program at Ohio State in roughly 2006. "A search of scientific literature....." Ms. Miller does not back up her findings by citing which Publications she is referring to or the Sources and I think her stance may be a bit out dated.

http://vegnet.osu.edu/sites/vegnet/files/imce/VegNet Vol. 13, No. 17. August 24, 2006.pdf

The fact remains that MANY use Hydrogen Peroxide for Agricultural applications. That's actually a fact. One may choose to disagree with using it but to imply that to use it is insane or unfounded is not coming from an informed stance.

Go ahead and Google Hydrogen Peroxide to kill pests, aphids, mites or what ever. Hydrogen Peroxide and its Agriculteral usage, Hydrogen Peroxide applications in Organic Farming. It's there!

Regards,
Pippa
 

Vert2Go

New member
Yes Jointed one, heavily mildewed bits, I cut and tossed but even 1 Branch or Plant visibly attacked can send all sorts of microscopic bits of fuckery to all of the other Ladies. The Soak and Rinse eliminated the anxiety of the presence of this problem and sterilized every nook and cranny.

Cheers,

Pippa
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Oh ok. I figured we were all on the same page with that when we clicked into the pm thread.
I assumed everything you said was about ver2go recommending h202.
I must need new glasses

Yeah it was, I just wasn't talking about the h202 being dangerous to smoke it's the mold spores that you need to worry about.

It all depends on the grower though, some people don't care for their health like others do and will justify these stoner science methods to "save" their crop (while subjecting their friends to the crap and never mentioning a word because Jorge said it was ok lol)
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
So your standpoint is that: h202 doesn't work irraticating mold spores like pm, and that the concentrations of powder mildew are toxic, especially when making concentrate.
Seems different than what you originally were saying.

But if that is what you ment,
Research a bit and you will find many people on icmag and all over the internet claiming h202 works when battling powder mildew.

"Locally, due to our short growing season, Botrytis bud rot is the bane of outdoor growers, and because of our high humidity, Powdery Mildew is everywhere.
The good news is that while the spores of both are capable of producing a Type I allergic reaction to those sensitive to them, neither produce know aflatoxins, so simply removing all the spores and mold material, makes it useable by removing allergens, as well as the ghastly moldy taste and smell."
The link will teach you how to filter it out.
https://skunkpharmresearch.com/salvaging-moldy-material-2/
 

Vert2Go

New member
Yeah it was, I just wasn't talking about the h202 being dangerous to smoke it's the mold spores that you need to worry about.

It all depends on the grower though, some people don't care for their health like others do and will justify these stoner science methods to "save" their crop (while subjecting their friends to the crap and never mentioning a word because Jorge said it was ok lol)

I did not give Weed with Mold Spores in it to people to smoke. Any molecules of Mold Spores were eradicated by the h202. What part of what I originally stated are you going to repeatedly and intentionally misinterpret?

Your first Post was insulting and nasty and you know perfectly well that you were claiming that the use of h202 should never be done. Do you seriously want me to repost your stance?

You may not like Jorge Cervantes way of doing things or his approaches but to claim that he does not know what he is doing is rather sad on your part.

I investigate many sources before I take action. I posted something that was helpful to me for people to use or not use. I backed up my reasoning with Scientific and Scholarly data as well as Data from a person who IS respected by many in the Growing Community.

Everyone knows that smoking PM is awful for your health. I NEVER gave or stated to ANYONE that they should do this and you know that.

What you seem to FAIL to understand is that Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into oxygen and hydrogen and is an unstable molecule and therefore has dissapated to the point of not being able to be injested via smoke inhalation.

What you FAIL to understand is that there are many in the Marijuana Community applying h202 for many uses in Marijuana propagation SUCCESSFULLY. Why? Because there are many uses for it in the Agricultural Organic and non-Organic Communities and this is backed up by SCIENCE.

Trying to back track by redirecting insults and disrespect toward me in your defense is just shameful.

Regards,

Pippa
 

Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
I couldn't glean much from the opening pages of this thread but have a problem.

In my greenhouse temps and humidity went way wacky for several weeks, cold shitty wet weather. and by cold I mean down to +1, +4, +5 Celcius night time for over a week and below +10 for the 3 weeks, with rain and very little sun and highs in the low to mid teens (celcius)

my black tuna was hit first , at the nodes with a pale sick looking yellowing of the stem below the node, then turning to a greying brown furry mold. Then as the days go by the branch affected is yellowing and dying off slowly.

After removing the affected plants I am noticing just the odd spot on 1 or 2 other plants and want to remedy if I can. Weather has improved and I've got the humidity and heat dealt with with grow equipment, and am running with zero condensation day and night and 10 degree C variance in day night temps.
now I just need a quick treatment to save these plants from this illness progressing.

Ideas? and if it helps, I'm in Canada so some products may be country specific.
Help!!! I have 5 weeks to go to harvest and my plants are very worthy of saving LOL
 
N

noyd666

bud rot? nasty shit.
picture.php
had this sent over from England for pm awhile back now but it helped save my crop, but bud rot is diff but might help you through . british lads were swearing by it. I 'm sure its out of Canada.
picture.php
 

Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
no buds are affected yet, but down on the lower stem is where it seems to start.
I've had bud rot on outdoor before but it didn't start out like this so early in flowering and was in the buds themselves. Hoping I can stop this so I don't get it in the buds. learning curve I suppose. :D
 

chronosync

Well-known member
I found rot on a plant yesterday, I'm pissed because its not even bad ( the weather) yet. NE is notorious but already?!? Sorry just ranting
 

Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
ya, bud rot and powdery mildew and such aren't normal for here. it's usually dry and hot in summer with the odd refreshing rain storm passin thru. but this season has been reminding me of coastal weather down at sea level, damp, cold , 90% humidity or higher..... very unusual and totally unexpected. Worst summer weather my old timer friend can remember and he's lived here for over 50 years.
 

chronosync

Well-known member
Shit, that's crap luck tom I hope it turns around for ya! This year and next! I put mine out because I had nowhere else so its sink or swim, but see now I'm attached :) one is a gsc and its smelling soo nice.....
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
I couldn't glean much from the opening pages of this thread but have a problem.

In my greenhouse temps and humidity went way wacky for several weeks, cold shitty wet weather. and by cold I mean down to +1, +4, +5 Celcius night time for over a week and below +10 for the 3 weeks, with rain and very little sun and highs in the low to mid teens (celcius)

my black tuna was hit first , at the nodes with a pale sick looking yellowing of the stem below the node, then turning to a greying brown furry mold. Then as the days go by the branch affected is yellowing and dying off slowly.

After removing the affected plants I am noticing just the odd spot on 1 or 2 other plants and want to remedy if I can. Weather has improved and I've got the humidity and heat dealt with with grow equipment, and am running with zero condensation day and night and 10 degree C variance in day night temps.
now I just need a quick treatment to save these plants from this illness progressing.

Ideas? and if it helps, I'm in Canada so some products may be country specific.
Help!!! I have 5 weeks to go to harvest and my plants are very worthy of saving LOL
Spray with natural mystic d.e.m compost tea.
 

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