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Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc...

bluenorth

Member
Well everyone is entitled to an opinion right? I've battled I think just about everything. Bugs are child's play, powdery mildew is the true plague, it is in the plant and you can't kill it, it's in the cells. The white dust is the way it travels to a new host. Every time I got it was from bringing in clones from someone else, you normally can't see it on a clone. The only real cure is to tear the room down and soak everything down in mold spray, then bleach. Every nook and cranny on everything, even then you can't be positive you got every microscopic spore. Start from seed and hope for the best, never bring another clone in from somewhere else. It's the same as bugs in that it came into your room from somewhere, it just didn't materialize from nothing.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Can anyone confirm, when bud rot spores start flying ?
I think you're kind of ok cutting everthing infected away as long as it's still white. As soon as the fungus turns dark the spores are ripe and get released ?
any insight anyone?
I'm after the point in developement where it starts affecting the whole crop... or until when you can effecively remove bud rot by cutting it aways.
 

vince514

seeker of greater knowledge
Veteran
hey chevy u should cut infected plant matter as soon as it appears you really dont want that spreading ...and yes when its black the spores are most active but they are also transmitted when fresh....try to lower your humidity it might help in the future and always clean your tools ....good luck
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thanks Vince I did exactly that.
Worked out, not further spreading and no rot in the drying buds either.
All good.

Cheers,

cc
 

Hempsmoke

Active member
u should cut infected plant matter as soon as it appears you really dont want that spreading

I think thats the first thing to do when you see PM
after reading the whole thread it appears to me that many people seem to treat their plants with different stuff without removing infected plant parts.

You really have to remove every plant part that shows visible signs of an infestation before you treat your plants.
 

roasthawg

Member
The problem with using Organicide and other oils is that they don't really take it out, they just smother it down. It comes back usually, and because you have used oil, you now cannot use one of the most effective treatments: sulphur. Sulphur will severly burn plants if you have used any oils in the last 30 days.

Organicide/oils maybe fine in veg, but not in flower. Sulpher and Zone/Penetrator in my opinion are the best options till about week 4-5. With milk being good for late flowering when you just want to hold it down without damaging anything.
Way old post but I spray plants weekly with organicide for mites and also burn sulfer weekly... no issues with leaf burn ever and definitely no pm.
 
The mildew is as common here as other various mold and lichens. when it blooms hard (around 3 months of the year, in june and september/oct i believe) it is just impossible to contain without a lot of investment in build. and Air control.

for cheep options it's been said to do habanero seed and garlic sprouts soak's

served fresh and fermented teas through 36 hours (removing seeds and diluting it towards the end)

the tea should be good all the way to harvest
 
Pm is one off the pro growers nightmares and can only be completely eradicated by shuting down disposing of infected plants cleaning your site and air ducting completely and starting fresh with clean plants once a plant has the pm it can't be removed only treated and kept under control the best thing to do is make shore u never get it in the first place silicate treatment works grate for strengthening your plants to prevent it from showing up be careful of bringing clones into your clean op it my have pm and not be showing green cure works ok but treatments should be switched up from one to another so your pm strain dosnt bild resistence to a particular spray if you plan on fighting it for the long run good luck this stuff sucks
 
A couple of my buds about 9 weeks in had some minor bud rot deep in the stem, I did some inspecting and opening up, possibly spreading spores in my one tent, but I have heard spores are in the air already. The plants have been chopped, and I harvested. Lost possibly an ounce or an ounce and a half from about 12 ozs. I have another tent in the room, plus my harvest tents exhausts into my veg cabinet. Is that going to spread the spores all over my plants? Is there any measure I should take as far as cleaning up? The canopy was over crowded and nuts were falling upon each other which caused the rot, so the situation will be fixed. Anything else I should do to make my room mold free? My other tent is in week 5 flower and is looking good, but I don't think I would be able to run a sulfur burner as I hear it is not good. Any advice would be great
 
I found this stuff called "Regalia" that is a plant extract and is safe to use up to day of harvest.

It is supposed to make the plant produce it's own defenses against most molds and PM.

It can be sprayed on or root drench.

I was told by some outdoor growers that it kept their plants from getting any mold or PM even with late rains and days of overcast.

I've applied it to my girls and will report on how well it works.
 

nappybutbald

Active member
"If you spot those nasty white spots soon enough, break out the spray bottle, fill it with alkaline water that test at 9.5 pH, and merely mist your ladies each morning after your grow space lights turn on for the day until the fungus is no longer among us.

This application can be used for plants that are in the vegetative and flowering stages of their growth cycle.

Misting your girls with water that is alkaline is fine at any time and makes for an inexpensive way to keep powdery mildew at bay.

Keep it green and grow organic!"

by Erik G
 
I use a teaspoon of dishsoap in a litre of distilled water and spray and even rub it into the leaves and the underside of the leaves with my hands. After all it's just dish soap. These days I use the green dishsoap made with clorox. Anything that needs oxygen will drown. Plunge the plant into a pail of soapy water. I dunk the whole pot in sometimes if think things are living down below like mealy bugs. I also use that to kill spidermites, mealy bugs and even some kind of moths that defoliate my outdoor high bush cranberry. None of my plants seem to mind and even my orchids don't mind. They seem to thrive on it and the leaves look great. One of my roses always gets powdery mildew and the dish soap seems to work very well. I spray every 10 days or so and even before it gets mildew season if I remember.

As the previous poster said---always grow from seed. Someone gave me a clone and filled my whole house with mites. My ants farm them and move them around the house.

No toxic chems for me. I have also used 70% rubbing alcohol in a spray which works well, but you have to hold your breath and run out of the room.

Baking soda in water is good as a spray which has been said before and up the ph. I do this with mule team borax which is ph 9.5. I leave it on for a while then wash it off. I don't know why I wash it off but I do. Borax is an esential nutrient and people even take it as a vitamin.
 

slender

Member
the cure for bugs is.... azamax for pests: foliar spray 1 time week...
the cure for more bugs is : whitefly and sticky aphid sheets.

the cure for powder mildew is serenade organic. foliar spray 1 time a week.



your welcome.

slender,
 

NEGT1

Member
Has anyone ever had issues with downey mildew? It definitely is not powdery mildew but my garden has some sort of issue that isn't a normal deficiency or problem.
 
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