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Butane honey oil for dummies

rusga

New member
In any solvent extraction where you can add time and temperature your yields will be the highest. More time and temp the higher but expect to max out at around 95-98% of what is in the plant. So that depends on what is in there to begin with. But with numbers like that you can use the process to tell you that.
The key is matching the polarity exactly and finding the right combination of all those controls.

Thank you for the advices but I have some questions:
What do you mean, time and temperature? I have to put higher temperatures on what, the extraction tube?
 

rusga

New member
An early Skywalker produced the closest to clear and colorless, than any other strains that we've extracted. In cotton candy form, it was pearlescent white, and in shatter form, it greyed instead of turning amber with added layers.

I don't remember the yield, but it wasn't startling one way or the other and we typically get 18 to 25%, depending on strain.

GW, as always, thank you so much for your kind replies and advices.
I guess I had a problem with the extractor tube. It was made out of a glass bottle, a long neck one, I guess it was too big for the amount I was filling in it. Cut the glass bottle, close to the neck, grinded the material, and stuffed the glass bottle with it, with just a little bit of pressing. Used a whole can of butane on it, long enough for the the color of the solvent + product to be quite clear.

This is the result:

attachment.php


It is crystalized because it stayed in the freezer overnight, I had a total of 1 hour vaccuum purging at 26-27 inches of Hg (couldnt get 28, gotta check that later). After it stays a few minutes at room temperature, it becomes liquid again. I tried to put in the freezer and then vac purging, and again in the freezer and again in the purging, nothing changed.

Now, the big question: HOW DO I GET IT TO SAP, SHATTER, WINTERIZE, any of those names that are given to a more solid and "crispy" appareance to a concentrate?

PS: I didnt use any heat source but the sun to get a higher temperature as it was purging.

PS': I have two butane tanes here, one it says lighter fluid (butane) and one just says its butane. I guess Brazil doesn't have a bigger variety than that. The lighet fluid butane smells different than the other one, the second one smells a little bit like thoses gases from kitches stoves, that smells like fart (lol). Which one do you suggest using it? I was afraind that the fart smell from the second option would interfeer in the concentrate. Sadly I coulnd't find a 5x purified butane.


Hope you guys could help me :))
It seems like I am trying the impossible, but as GW and other users helped me, seems easier to make good quality BHO.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers, From Brazil! HAHAHAHAHAHA
 

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Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
GW, as always, thank you so much for your kind replies and advices.
I guess I had a problem with the extractor tube. It was made out of a glass bottle, a long neck one, I guess it was too big for the amount I was filling in it. Cut the glass bottle, close to the neck, grinded the material, and stuffed the glass bottle with it, with just a little bit of pressing. Used a whole can of butane on it, long enough for the the color of the solvent + product to be quite clear.

This is the result:

View Image

It is crystalized because it stayed in the freezer overnight, I had a total of 1 hour vaccuum purging at 26-27 inches of Hg (couldnt get 28, gotta check that later). After it stays a few minutes at room temperature, it becomes liquid again. I tried to put in the freezer and then vac purging, and again in the freezer and again in the purging, nothing changed.

Now, the big question: HOW DO I GET IT TO SAP, SHATTER, WINTERIZE, any of those names that are given to a more solid and "crispy" appareance to a concentrate?

PS: I didnt use any heat source but the sun to get a higher temperature as it was purging.

PS': I have two butane tanes here, one it says lighter fluid (butane) and one just says its butane. I guess Brazil doesn't have a bigger variety than that. The lighet fluid butane smells different than the other one, the second one smells a little bit like thoses gases from kitches stoves, that smells like fart (lol). Which one do you suggest using it? I was afraind that the fart smell from the second option would interfeer in the concentrate. Sadly I coulnd't find a 5x purified butane.


Hope you guys could help me :))
It seems like I am trying the impossible, but as GW and other users helped me, seems easier to make good quality BHO.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers, From Brazil! HAHAHAHAHAHA

If you warm it up and roll your extract on PTFE or parchment into a thin layer, it will be easier to purge remaining solvents. I use 110/115F at -29.5" Hg at sea level.

Above sea level pressure depends on altitude.

The butane that smells like garlic, has ethyl or methyl mercaptans added for odor. It tastes the same and is typically avoided.
 

theJointedOne

Well-known member
Veteran
Am I correct to assume that all brands of butane in a can have unwanted ingredients that become residual residue in bho made with said butane? And that even a great purge and winterizing doesn't rid these unwanted residues?
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Am I correct to assume that all brands of butane in a can have unwanted ingredients that become residual residue in bho made with said butane? And that even a great purge and winterizing doesn't rid these unwanted residues?

Yes, well stated.

The two main threads on the subject of the non-volatile residue ('mystery oil,')

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6099306&postcount=28

http://www.tokecity.com/forums/showthread.php?51333-Lube-inside-canned-butane-Mystery-Oil
 

rusga

New member
If you warm it up and roll your extract on PTFE or parchment into a thin layer, it will be easier to purge remaining solvents. I use 110/115F at -29.5" Hg at sea level.

Above sea level pressure depends on altitude.

The butane that smells like garlic, has ethyl or methyl mercaptans added for odor. It tastes the same and is typically avoided.

Do you think if I keep it on the vac chamber with some heat source (110F) it will shatter? Crystalize? Its really hard to hadle, too gooey. I want a harder form of BHO.
 

rusga

New member
If you warm it up and roll your extract on PTFE or parchment into a thin layer, it will be easier to purge remaining solvents. I use 110/115F at -29.5" Hg at sea level.

Above sea level pressure depends on altitude.

The butane that smells like garlic, has ethyl or methyl mercaptans added for odor. It tastes the same and is typically avoided.

How do I crystalize this concentrate? Let it be in the vac on 115F for longer time? Or do you think it will never shatter?
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
How do I crystalize this concentrate? Let it be in the vac on 115F for longer time? Or do you think it will never shatter?

It ostensibly started out as shatter, so all that is required is to remove the solvent and water, without decarboxylating it, for it to be shatter consistency.

High levels of monoterpenes may prevent it from being brittle at room temperature, but they don't typically make it goopy.
 

rusga

New member
It ostensibly started out as shatter, so all that is required is to remove the solvent and water, without decarboxylating it, for it to be shatter consistency.

High levels of monoterpenes may prevent it from being brittle at room temperature, but they don't typically make it goopy.

I did decarb (15-18m in the oven) my product before extracting. I guess this batch wont solidify.
Next time I should not decarb the plant materia then?
The reason I want the product to shatter its for a better handling. And also for an eye candy effect.

As stated before, GW, you are the Wizzard of the newbies on BHO.
Thank you so much for your time and replies.

:))
 

rusga

New member
I did decarb (15-18m in the oven) my product before extracting. I guess this batch wont solidify.
Next time I should not decarb the plant materia then?
The reason I want the product to shatter its for a better handling. And also for an eye candy effect.

As stated before, GW, you are the Wizzard of the newbies on BHO.
Thank you so much for your time and replies.
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
It ostensibly started out as shatter, so all that is required is to remove the solvent and water, without decarboxylating it, for it to be shatter consistency.

High levels of monoterpenes may prevent it from being brittle at room temperature, but they don't typically make it goopy.

I've had a couple strains extremely high in lemony smelling terpenes that would never make shatter. Always extremely soft and actually kind of runny.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I've had a couple strains extremely high in lemony smelling terpenes that would never make shatter. Always extremely soft and actually kind of runny.

Our current live resin Casey Jones stays soft, though not runny. Not purdy, but certainly tasty!
 

THoC

Member
Been a long time since Ive been on these boards much has changed. A lot of new info to digest and ingest. I have a noob question what do I need to make to put into a vape pen that takes oil. I hear of wax, shatter, honey..... I am frankly confused as to where to begin.

Can someone point a brother to some basic info.

thanks
 

Teh_Baker

Active member
Been a long time since Ive been on these boards much has changed. A lot of new info to digest and ingest. I have a noob question what do I need to make to put into a vape pen that takes oil. I hear of wax, shatter, honey..... I am frankly confused as to where to begin.

Can someone point a brother to some basic info.

thanks

You're at the right place. This thread will tell you how to make some of the best oil, wax, butter, shatter that you could ever hope to have. Pretty much all of which are applicable to a vape pen or mod box. Your vape shouldnt be for e-juice though, as this is completely different.

The coil you run in your vape depends on brand, and personal preferences. I prefer a deeper coil myself, but i dont spend extra money on quartz or porcelain. Good ol titanium is good enough for me. I run an X20 coil head on my siegel mod box and it works great.
 
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