Butane honey oil for dummies

[Gray Wolf]

You might also look into an oil well with quartz or Ti wand.

Avoid the borosilicate (Pyrex) wands, as eventually they heat fracture,where the quartz or Ti seems to last forever.

You simply put oil in the well and then dip a heated wand in the pool. When you withdraw the wand, vapor is formed and is drawn through small holes near the top of the well.

It is dead simple and you have precise control of how much vapor is formed.

The oil well with taper concept in the attached picture, was actually jointly developed by Agnostic Taost and a local glass shop, to fit AT's X-Man pipe.

Here are some that we've had made for our own use, using the oil well concept (with AT's blessing). The pipe with the tray of different drop in bowls, is used to demonstrate to students the differences in the extracts, using various extraction techniques.

If you are not in Portland and are having problems getting an oil well made locally, you can no doubt get one mail order from a shop here in river city.

I know Eloquentsolution had a run of the oil wells with tapers and some of the steam roller pipes produced for some of our students and local patients, and also supplied some to Smoke Signals on Sandy, in Portland, a local shop that discounts to OMMP patients.

She may also have them in some of the other local shops, so if you would like to try one, you might give Smoke Signals on Sandy a call, or PM ES on this forum. She can tell you better than I, what other shops she provides them for.

If no one is stocking what you want, I know she is close to putting in another bulk order, because I just broke my water pipe and asked her to add another one to her list for me.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Sorry the pictures didn't load and wouldn't load on edit. Trying again!

 

[Gray Wolf]

I was in a similar situation 2 months back, the globe I linked is rather cheap compared to the ones I have found in smoke shops though, also very clean glass work, guys in shops were asking 70+ :/

I am currently using the glass nails it comes with, I used to hit a curve all the time with a homemade paperclip dabber, I notice a big taste difference with the nail / titanium dabber, not sure if its the nail or the dabber though. I am going to do some comparing with the glass nails vs Ti ones.

I've found little taste difference between borosilicate and quartz, but ti adds a sharper edge to the flavor with our systems.

 

[budbasket]

The ones in the store where I am at run 100+, but most people don't even know what there for. I messed up my plan to post my garden on my 100th post...will get around to it eventually. I decided to stop buying locally after I had a run of really cheap pieces that just broke one right after the other. The only good piece I have bought from them was a lay-down inline pipe with a 6 tree perc, and a cano. I've seen many copies of a similar design but the one I got actually was pretty thick I have even tapped the joint of the bowl a few times, even kicked it once, and it was fine(thank god) most of the ones online are thin.
I find it kinda of exciting all the different toys to use oil with, exciting but expensive. I kinda wish I would have taken the time to pursue glass blowing, not enough of an artist. That electroforming(?) stuff is really cool, but the price is insane and I really don't see the point besides being a little different. Prob a discussion for "post pics of your piece thread" -basket

 

[Gray Wolf]

The ones in the store where I am at run 100+, but most people don't even know what there for.

An oil well with taper and quartz wand is only about $35.

 

[budbasket]

I will have a better address for ordering stuff here in a couple weeks and will be picking up some new beans and a new toy or 2. Id really like either a oil globe or this well you speak of...and a inline-tube would be pretty nice too. $200 cheaper on Aqualab than my local head shop, but hey people will pay the money I guess.-basket

 

[juicepuddle]

I will have a better address for ordering stuff here in a couple weeks and will be picking up some new beans and a new toy or 2. Id really like either a oil globe or this well you speak of...and a inline-tube would be pretty nice too. $200 cheaper on Aqualab than my local head shop, but hey people will pay the money I guess.-basket

Make sure if you choose an oil well, to buy one very deep, I messed up a year ago and got one that was not deep enough, if I was not careful I would spill oil through the holes in the top of the bowl, so make sure its deep and find a glass rod to heat it that isnt as wide as the bowl, if you push down to hard the oil will slide up the sides of the bowl.

And chances are aqualab is cheaper because the guys at your local shop order from there and upsale bigtime hahaha

 

[juicepuddle]

I am going to do some comparing with the glass nails vs Ti ones.

So I am gonna go ahead and say Ti nails FOR THE WIN! They are easier to heat which is a plus, the glass nails really do get cold fast. Taste wise I would say the glass nail brought out more taste.

 

[budbasket]

I really wish I lived in a more lenient state, the classes/test panels you have would be amazing GW. Juice-keep up the testing lol. I am waiting on some new material to dry out from yesterday then will make another batch for myself. I never weight the amount used but usually end up with around 3.2-3.4gs of oil every 3 weeks.---stay safe/stay medicated everyone basket

 

[Gray Wolf]

Make sure if you choose an oil well, to buy one very deep, I messed up a year ago and got one that was not deep enough, if I was not careful I would spill oil through the holes in the top of the bowl, so make sure its deep and find a glass rod to heat it that isnt as wide as the bowl, if you push down to hard the oil will slide up the sides of the bowl.

And chances are aqualab is cheaper because the guys at your local shop order from there and upsale bigtime hahaha

Good point! The deeper ones are less messy, but technique also plays a part as well. The trick is to have a ball that is a loose fit in the bowl, but still blocks most of the top open when you withdraw the wand to just above where the vent holes are.

That blocks the top opening and drops the static pressure inside the bowl and promotes vaporization.

The technique I spoke of is not submerging the hot ball on the end of the wand in the puddle, but just lightly touching the top and then slowly and smoothly withdrawing it to above the vent holes.

When you do it suddenly, and withdraw the wand to above the oil well opening, drops can stick to the wand and be flung about.

Like any oil pipe, some vapors will start to cool and accumulate before even exiting the bowl, and so I periodically put the oil well bowl in hot alcohol and shake it. I then reclaim the oil and use it for sleepy meds.

 

[juicepuddle]

Good point! The deeper ones are less messy, but technique also plays a part as well. The trick is to have a ball that is a loose fit in the bowl, but still blocks most of the top open when you withdraw the wand to just above where the vent holes are.

My problem was the glass rod I was using was waaaay to large, it would gloop the oil up into the holes even with my steady hands

But also lookin at your pictures in comparison, your bowl is almost a half inch deeper then the one I have.

Like any oil pipe, some vapors will start to cool and accumulate before even exiting the bowl, and so I periodically put the oil well bowl in hot alcohol and shake it. I then reclaim the oil and use it for sleepy meds.

I use iso to clean my peices as well, how would you go about the claim? I have read some threads about it and I think I get the picture, so clean peice with iso, and then purge iso kinda like bho, just warm it until evap and then scrape? Add to dark chocolate? Let me know if this is good / bad

 

[Gray Wolf]

My problem was the glass rod I was using was waaaay to large, it would gloop the oil up into the holes even with my steady hands

But also lookin at your pictures in comparison, your bowl is almost a half inch deeper then the one I have.


I use iso to clean my peices as well, how would you go about the claim? I have read some threads about it and I think I get the picture, so clean peice with iso, and then purge iso kinda like bho, just warm it until evap and then scrape? Add to dark chocolate? Let me know if this is good / bad

Yup! Just wash it out and evaporate away the alcohol. I cook off the alcohol in a 250F oil bath.

 

[LifeLess]

this seems the spot for this question. The only tube i could get my hands on is a 1 1/2 inch round piece of stainless pipe. Its 12 inchs long. Its capped on one end and on the other i put a piece of gold coffee filter screen. The pipe holds 1.5 oz of trim. I used 2-10.8 oz cans of vector butane to 1.5 oz of trim. The trim is very frosty but the return didnt seem what it should of been. It seemed like the butane ran out the end way to fast and didnt get a chance to work. I was about to empty the pipe and the trim in the bottom 1/2 of the pipe didnht even look it was touched by the butane. I got 2g of oil. Should there be something slowing the butane for comming outta the pipe? What i did get is very amber in color with white swirls in it. I followed all instructions to a T. The only place that people seem to differ is in there purge. Some do it over night some are 1 hour some 2 hours. Anyone that sees this maybe explain there way of purging and why? Could be a good poll question. Thnx LL

 

[juicepuddle]

this seems the spot for this question. The only tube i could get my hands on is a 1 1/2 inch round piece of stainless pipe. Its 12 inchs long. Its capped on one end and on the other i put a piece of gold coffee filter screen. The pipe holds 1.5 oz of trim. I used 2-10.8 oz cans of vector butane to 1.5 oz of trim. The trim is very frosty but the return didnt seem what it should of been. It seemed like the butane ran out the end way to fast and didnt get a chance to work. I was about to empty the pipe and the trim in the bottom 1/2 of the pipe didnht even look it was touched by the butane. I got 2g of oil. Should there be something slowing the butane for comming outta the pipe? What i did get is very amber in color with white swirls in it. I followed all instructions to a T. The only place that people seem to differ is in there purge. Some do it over night some are 1 hour some 2 hours. Anyone that sees this maybe explain there way of purging and why? Could be a good poll question. Thnx LL

2 grams from 1.5 OUNCE is pretty low, unless the trim was very low quality in terms of trichs. I have heard that the smaller the run is the better quality and yields are, I have no experience in this personally, but perhaps your running to much material?

Also how did you pack your tube? Loose? Tight packed? From what I have read the best is a nicely tight packed tube that does not allow tane to go around bud, but through it(You also said it seemed like tane didnt even hit the side of the tube, so I am at a loss hehe, just trying here)

I have heard that once your initial warm water bath purge is finished that if you use a double boiler setup its roughly 10 min per gram of oil.

Ide say its either a problem with the way the tube was packed, or just the quality of the material used, its possible the run was really big and this could effect it somehow, but I have seen many runs this large come out fine hehe, sorry about this back and forth post! Just trying to get some info to ya, GL!

 

[LifeLess]

Thnx JP. The quality of the trim was top notch. Its only bud trim and very trich covered thats why i thought the return was kinda low. I think i packed the tube pretty tight. Its seems as the butane ran past the material down the sides of the tube. I was wondering if slowing the butane release from the tube would work? What do others use on the end of there tube? Just a screen? Im gonna go pick up a stainless turkey baster and see what that give back. Thnx for the fast reply. LL

 

[jump117]

Should there be something slowing the butane for comming outta the pipe?

Hey LifeLess, thermos is more suitable for a long extraction. I slow the butane for two hours.

 

[Gray Wolf]

this seems the spot for this question. The only tube i could get my hands on is a 1 1/2 inch round piece of stainless pipe. Its 12 inchs long. Its capped on one end and on the other i put a piece of gold coffee filter screen. The pipe holds 1.5 oz of trim. I used 2-10.8 oz cans of vector butane to 1.5 oz of trim. The trim is very frosty but the return didnt seem what it should of been. It seemed like the butane ran out the end way to fast and didnt get a chance to work. I was about to empty the pipe and the trim in the bottom 1/2 of the pipe didnht even look it was touched by the butane. I got 2g of oil. Should there be something slowing the butane for comming outta the pipe? What i did get is very amber in color with white swirls in it. I followed all instructions to a T. The only place that people seem to differ is in there purge. Some do it over night some are 1 hour some 2 hours. Anyone that sees this maybe explain there way of purging and why? Could be a good poll question. Thnx LL

1 1/2" is too large a diameter to evenly wet the material in a single pass system. I suggest something an inch or smaller.

If you will repack the tube and run it again, you can pick up more of it. Just running more butane through it will not do so, because the extra butane will just follow the same path through the material as the previous cans.

1 1/2 oz/42.45gm of prime bud will typically produce between 10 to 20% return, so you are way low at 2 gms, or 4.7%.

Like Jump says, you can soak it longer if you keep it chilled in a thermos, or if you can cap the container and hold the pressure, you can keep it liquid at warmer temperatures.

 

[LifeLess]

Jump , GW thnx for the info. I was kinda thinking the pipe might be to big. I should have just bought the okief and been done with it. Im gonna order one tomorrow. Im gonna go with the single tube? Any objections to that? So 1 tube = 22g trim so 1 -10oz can of butane?

 

[Trichgnomes]

1 1/2" is too large a diameter to evenly wet the material in a single pass system. I suggest something an inch or smaller.

On non-recovery based systems that utilize direct injection of butane canister into a turkey basters, glass tubes, SS tubes--whatever-- I could not agree more. Obviously the poster was using an apparatus of such nature, so Gray Wolf's reply is completely accurate given that context.

However, I have witnessed that a larger diameter is completely acceptable on systems that use ball valves with larger diameter passages for the liquid butane to flow through.

Essentially what I am saying is that--more or less-- a certain ratio between the exit hole of the butane and the diameter of the pipe must be maintained. 1 1/2" is fine as long as you are using tanks with large ports. I have witnessed a 24% yield on a single pass using a system with said dimensions, recovering 85% of the butane to boot.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Good point! I am defining a single pass system as a column with a ~1/8" injection port on one end and a filter clamped to the other. My best yield repacking and with two runs was 21.6% and 100% of the butane is lost. Yield has varied considerable by strain.

I too used 1 1/2" tubing for my first ball valve controlled "soak" system, and use 1 1/2" Schedule 10 304SS for our butane extraction and recovery system that can flood, soak, or pump the butane through the material.

Butane recovery is about 100% , but best yield to date was 22.2% using a 30 minute flood, and soak cycle, where I flood with one volume of new butane every time the system pressure is pumped below -10" Hg. With the current system that is about ten to a dozen times and column volumes in 30 minutes.

Jump noted using a thermos and doing the extraction at reduced temperature. Another good way to keep the butane from evaporating off so quickly and increasing the yield. For those of us living in warmer climes, keeping the soak container on dry ice during the soak should accomplish the same end without chancing using a freezer.

As Jump also uses primarily fresh frozen material, that should even work better than a pressurized tube that is unable to keep the material frozen.

You can tell when it is time to stop by inspecting for remaining trichome heads with a microscope.