Building New Panels - Sharing the Process

[rrog]

UPDATE: I was thinking the assembly was going to take quite a while, but Habeeb and Tenthirty have given me hope that I can build one panel a little quicker than I thought, so what the hell.

Habeeb, regarding the highest Bin for WW, CW and NW, Cree XM-L, I was looking at the second link you so kindly provided, however RapidLED doesn't have WW in XM-L. Only XP-G. Should I email them? Look elsewhere?

 

[PetFlora]

Depending on whose diodes, NW has sufficient blue so that CW is not needed, and if added would throw too much blue

 

[rrog]

Looking to have this ratio: mixing WW+ NW+ CW in a 2:2:1 ratio That was the recipe that I was copying. The thought was to turn off the WW during veg, and turn off the CW for flower. So the panel could be used for either.

 

[medmaker420]

can't wait to see her in action rrog

 

[rrog]

Just finishing the shopping list.

Still need to find an LED supplier that has all three Cree diodes.

I'll head to Radio Shack and see how the terminal blocks work with the fuses, MOV's and zeners. I'm sure it's straightforward.

Wire- I'm assuming I'm running the wire from the driver to a terminal block where the leads from the LEDs come in. To go from the terminal bock to the individual LEDs, is there a preferred wire? I'd need a spool for this panel, then the next batch for my new room.

Solder- Seems like the rosin core is needed to heat faster. I'd welcome a recommendation on the most sure-fire solder. I can work in a garage with an exhaust straight outside. I have Kester "44" Rosin Core already that I've used for circuit boards.

Flux- I'll have to get some of that, though I'm sure I have some used for sweating copper pipe.

Soldering gun- I have a Weller WLC100. Seems to work fine. It has a small chisel tip. 1/8". Looks like I can remove a screw and change tips if there's a better / additional one I would find useful.

A Meter- I'll have to check the various LEDs, circuits, etc and I know there are many different meters available? Building LED panels is about all I'd do with this, but don't want to go cheap. Might someone have a recommendation on this?

Thanks for any thoughts or tips as I start ordering. Looking forward to seeing this big heat sink. 10" x 22".

 

[xmobotx]

not sure the circuit you have in mind ~i picture the terminal blocks being used for AC in ~each series of diodes should wire straight to each individual driver

nm if you do have something mapped out

 

[trem0lo]

Hey rrog I know some meanwell drivers use zeners already in the design, I know the lpc series does. And all of them have over current/voltage of some type built in.

 

[rrog]

http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/lpf-90d-42.shtml
25.2-42 volts, 2.15a, 90.3 watts
Meanwell LPF-90D-42

Running the Cree XM-L at 2000mA, yielding 6.5W output and 3.2 forward volts. 10 per string. Not sure if there's any groovy protections built in, but that would be sweet.

Xmobo- I was busier typing than thinking. Wiring in series, 10 per string. What's a good wire?

 

[rives]

#22 wire will work fine.

I would recommend locally-mounted zeners. It's great that Meanwell incorporates them into their design, but if you are using a remote/separable driver, that doesn't do you much good if the driver isn't hooked up. I fragged an entire string of GD+'s when I took the heat sink back out to my drill press for a last minute change - no idea how or where it happened, but it blew every one of them. They worked just prior to taking it out to the shop, and didn't when I came back in....... Lesson learned. I've been working with electronics for many decades, and it was the first time I've blown any components from static discharge.

 

[rrog]

That's really fantastic info. I'll learn from your lesson.

What meter do you like, Rives?

 

[rives]

My preference is for Fluke. I've been using them for years, and have a number of them. My latest is a model 87, and it is a great, versatile meter but damn expensive. There are lots of meters for much, much less that would take care of your needs for this type of thing.

 

[rrog]

Hmmm. A few hondo for the Fluke... Hmmmm...

How about this one for $29? http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS826...TF8&qid=1359236997&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

Or is that too cheap?

 

[rives]

I have no idea without using one - the reviews look a little spotty. You might try Home Depot, they are damn good about their warranty stuff.

 

[habeeb]

UPDATE: I was thinking the assembly was going to take quite a while, but Habeeb and Tenthirty have given me hope that I can build one panel a little quicker than I thought, so what the hell.

Habeeb, regarding the highest Bin for WW, CW and NW, Cree XM-L, I was looking at the second link you so kindly provided, however RapidLED doesn't have WW in XM-L. Only XP-G. Should I email them? Look elsewhere?

well, you can order most chips from rapidled if you like.. or pick them all up here. check on pricing as I think the link I gave is more expensive for cool whites.. also rapidled is like $5 flat rate shipping, so add up what's cheaper...




I'm excited for you man.. just got done with my driver box today ( MOV / zeners ) so it's break time for me, and now get to see you do yours... then it's to the drawing board for flower lights..

 

[habeeb]

Depending on whose diodes, NW has sufficient blue so that CW is not needed, and if added would throw too much blue

just want to point out talking to repuk, he said his flower light with this setup, had stretch..

"Each bar has 3 XM-L in Neutral White, plus 2 XM-L in Cool White, plus 12 XP-G in Warm White."

 

[rrog]

I think Hempfield used these: http://www.rapidled.com/thermal-pads/ Are these a good idea? Seems they'd save the sink a bunch of holes unless these are really inefficient.

Rives- Cool on the Home Depot idea Thanks!

Habeeb- I'll split the order. Why not? Getting the heat sink that Rives likes at HeatSinkUSA

 

[rives]

I haven't used them, but I don't think that those pads are intended to mount the LED. They look more like a "thermal interface" to aid in conducting the heat from one piece to the other. I could be wrong, hopefully Hempfield will chime in.

HeatSinkUSA is great. I just placed an order a couple of days ago at about 4:30pm (their time) for some sinks that required custom cutting - at 7:30 the next morning (my time), I got an email that they had shipped.

 

[PetFlora]

Looking to have this ratio: mixing WW+ NW+ CW in a 2:2:1 ratio That was the recipe that I was copying. The thought was to turn off the WW during veg, and turn off the CW for flower. So the panel could be used for either.

As NW has all the blue you need, here's a simpler solution

40% NW + 80% WW to veg and on a separate circuit for flower
have sufficient WW to lower overall ratio to 20% NW

 

[hempfield]

I think Hempfield used these: http://www.rapidled.com/thermal-pads/ Are these a good idea? Seems they'd save the sink a bunch of holes unless these are really inefficient.

Rives- Cool on the Home Depot idea Thanks!

Habeeb- I'll split the order. Why not? Getting the heat sink that Rives likes at HeatSinkUSA

I bought my LEDs already soldered on 20mm star heat sinks and this have simplified a lot the process of building. It's more easy to work with LEDs already placed on heatsinks. They seems a little to expensive if you buy them alone.

This is why, for my next LED project (a veg/mothers box) I ordered some XM-L T6 U3 already mounted on 20mm star PCBs :

http://www.lightmalls.com/20mm-cree-xm-l-u3-1a-led-emitter-with-aluminum-plate-borad

Check this link for various emitters : http://www.lightmalls.com/led-emitters.

 

[rrog]

PetFlora- I've wondered about the blue. I'm going to try this first panel with the 2:2:1 ratio and I'll have the opportunity to replace that CW string later if desired. I have no real experience basis to compare, so I'll have to see.

Hempfield, I'm headed over to Youtube and look into the LED installation. There seem to be a few variables for different heat sinks to consider when attaching. I'm certainly looking for fast but want to cool these properly also. I'm running them at 2000mA and they're rated to 3000mA, so I'm gathering they'll be running cooler to begin with.

Hemp- Those LEDs with pre-attached little sinks then get attached to the main sink, yes?