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Building an IC69 Heat Exchanger

gholladay

Member
So, after reading the full 22 pages now is the consensus to have one chiller post refrigerant pump and a second chiller pre-injection with the recovery tank room temp? Currently, I have one 3/8 50 with 3/8 hoses placed post refrig pump. It seems some are going up in size both in hoses and coil dia to 1/2. The second question would be has anyone seen a noticeable difference in recovery times utilizing the larger hoses and/or coil diameter?
Sparton70,

You've pretty much got it! In theory, you should get more heat transfer across a 1/2" coil because it has more surface area. But remember this, the whole point of the chiller coil after your pump is simply to cool the butane down below its condensation point, so it turns to liquid (lowering the vapor pressure). A 3/8" x 50' coil is certainly capable of doing this. The main reason some brothers like to step up to 1/2" lines and coils is that they have a larger internal diameter and can carry more flow. You will have less resistance and your pump will be able to move the solvent faster with larger line sizes. So it's more of speed thing. A 3/8" line and coil system will work just fine. So to answer your question, yes, 1/2" line sizes and coils should make it faster, but I doubt it's enough of an increase to warrant replacing your 3/8" system. Also (just FYI), there is a LARGE price difference in 3/8" vs 1/2" fittings...

GH
 
So, after reading the full 22 pages now is the consensus to have one chiller post refrigerant pump and a second chiller pre-injection with the recovery tank room temp? Currently, I have one 3/8 50 with 3/8 hoses placed post refrig pump. It seems some are going up in size both in hoses and coil dia to 1/2. The second question would be has anyone seen a noticeable difference in recovery times utilizing the larger hoses and/or coil diameter?

Thank you for taking the time to read the threads. It really helps when people get up to speed and ask directed questions like you have.

It really derails a thread when people show up asking questions like: "What is an XXX" when the name of the thread is Building an XXX. Thank you for not being "that guy"!

We are really happy to help but repeating basic questions wastes the efforts and time of those who help. If people want help they need to have respect for the people from which they ask help and not waste those people's time.

Sparton welcome and thank you for starting off on the right foot!
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
So don't read my questions !! You are the troll cause GW doesn't seem mind ! In other word f#%k off!!!
--------------------WE APOLOGIZE FOR THIS INTERRUPTION OF YOUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAM------------------------
Alright Kiddo, since you dont accept new messages Ill do this here. Dont come on here blasting people for getting fed up with all your questions. This is NOT (no offense at all) GW's house, its all of our house. We maintain it, we answer questions, we ask questions. So when a member tells you for the upteenth time to fuck off of the questions and READ FOR YOUR SELF its because the shit has been answered once, let alone 5 times, and even worse YOU ALREADY ASKED THE QUESTION IN THE PAST. I went back and read all your posts and you do nothing but ask the same questions over and over that people already ask. Sorry you use a cell phone to read this and sorry internet cost money to change pages but FOR FUCK SAKES DONT MAKE YOUR PROBLEMS OUR PROBLEMS. Especially GW! I do all I can not to ask him questions, let alone easy questions, and here you go all willy nilly and ask how to tie your shoes in a thread that is specific for tying shoes. If you dont have the gusto to do the Research and Development we all painstakingly do, then we dont need you here. Sorry charlie, but we want to help people get from "WTF?" to "Aha!" not walk them there. A part of me feels like you already know we all feel this way, seeing as all your questions (that are bat shit easy and ALREADY ANSWERED) are directed to GW, not the masses. If you want the Hand Held version go to Carla or Joe and pony up the dough and ask ANY QUESTION your little heart desires as many time as it takes for you to, IDK, write it down. :comfort: PS, I dont want to seem like GW's opinion has no merit here, I didnt want to speak for him to say I feel like he just might care alot more than he shows...
----------------------------NOW BACK TO THE SHOW--------------------
 
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MEMED

Member
Yeah If I could boot a couple fools lately it'd b this fool and grow nerd. They obviously have no appreciation for the culture. They deserve no benefit. Take a hint fellas.
 

APK47

Member
This "next generation" doesn't want or feel the need to read, research, and study the information that they seek to know. Maybe it's simply a byproduct of the information age as we like to call it. However I find it evident amongst most youngsters now a days. They literally want someone to just do all of the work for them, while they sit back and call it their own.
Meanwhile we've been reading, studying, and in most cases doing this shit for years and years. Success doesn't come overnight in any industry, it takes dedication and hard work. Somehow we've not effectively communicated this to the next generations.
In my case I've been reading this forum for years, never posting anything as to not cloud the relevant info with clutter. Now that I've gleaned some knowledge through the years, I've finally decided to join. That said this forum is an unbelievable wealth of knowledge. There are some truly smart cats around here, and it's in all of our best interests to keep these people posting and contributing. So to reiterate, it's best to read through the threads rather than to ask redundant questions specifically targeted to the most valuable members on this forum.
 

dabdynasty

New member
whoa, just read the last 22 pages in two sessions. Going to need to got through it again to let it all sink in. I wish I had found this a week ago when I had the exact same ideas and ordered my coils, I would have gone with the self draining. Im glad I did read this as I was going to use a plastic water cooler with a ISO/DI bath, I will be switching to a stainless pot. My ultimate plan was to use a wand immersion chiller instead get away from buying DI all the time.

Immersion Probe Style Cooler

Any reason why that would not work? It seems like a better option then modifying a window ac unit, it certainly will be quieter.
 

Chonkski

Member
whoa, just read the last 22 pages in two sessions. Going to need to got through it again to let it all sink in. I wish I had found this a week ago when I had the exact same ideas and ordered my coils, I would have gone with the self draining. Im glad I did read this as I was going to use a plastic water cooler with a ISO/DI bath, I will be switching to a stainless pot. My ultimate plan was to use a wand immersion chiller instead get away from buying DI all the time.

Immersion Probe Style Cooler

Any reason why that would not work? It seems like a better option then modifying a window ac unit, it certainly will be quieter.

I've always wanted to try one out, haven't talked to anyone else considering that route. It all comes down to the price tag...?

Seems like they would be able to keep up no problem.
 

Breakover

Member
whoa, just read the last 22 pages in two sessions. Going to need to got through it again to let it all sink in. I wish I had found this a week ago when I had the exact same ideas and ordered my coils, I would have gone with the self draining. Im glad I did read this as I was going to use a plastic water cooler with a ISO/DI bath, I will be switching to a stainless pot. My ultimate plan was to use a wand immersion chiller instead get away from buying DI all the time.

Immersion Probe Style Cooler

Any reason why that would not work? It seems like a better option then modifying a window ac unit, it certainly will be quieter.


They don't remove enough heat. Look at the specs. 100w @ -40c 215w @ -60c

I estimate we're putting about 800-1000w of energy into the gas between heat of vaporization and heat of compression. Your chilling capacity needs to be similarly sized, if not larger.

You may be able to "batch" it though. Super chill your pot between recoveries.

The window shaker isn't too loud. It's relatively easy to move it somewhere and plumb in chilled liquid as well.
 
They don't remove enough heat. Look at the specs. 100w @ -40c 215w @ -60c

I estimate we're putting about 800-1000w of energy into the gas between heat of vaporization and heat of compression. Your chilling capacity needs to be similarly sized, if not larger.

You may be able to "batch" it though. Super chill your pot between recoveries.

The window shaker isn't too loud. It's relatively easy to move it somewhere and plumb in chilled liquid as well.

Great info thanks!

I'll second that the polyscience immersion probes are undersized for us. I have the ip60 immersed in my prechiller bath in a stainless dewar, and it can only get the 2gal of s IPA solution down to -25f after 3hours., and really doesn't keep up even though the incoming solution is coming in at 32-35f. Still using dry ice to drop it down to -60f and then the immersion probe saves me some dry ice over time. I'm thinking of using it for a vacuum fore line trap instead.
 
arent we talking about

arent we talking about

I am a newb here but arent we talking about a cold can like they use in drag racing ie coils with dry ice in the middle
 

Breakover

Member
Northern,
Will you consider posting how you wired up your sweaty betty? Thx

In ours there were two leads out of the digital control panel, one for the compressor and one for the fan. There is a capacitor in there for the compressor, but it didn't need to be rewired, iirc. There is also one power lead in. All neutrals were tied together as is customary in 120v ac wiring. I believe the capacitor was hooked to the neutrals as well. Rewire at your own risk.

I hooked the power lead to two switches, one runs the condenser fan, one runs the compressor. Instant manually controlled window shaker.

The plan is to eventually hook up a temp controller with relays instead of switches, but for now it works pretty well. If we kill it before then, there are many more window shakers collecting dust just waiting to die a noble death. :biggrin:
 

CannabisTHC

Member
Great info thanks!

I'll second that the polyscience immersion probes are undersized for us. I have the ip60 immersed in my prechiller bath in a stainless dewar, and it can only get the 2gal of s IPA solution down to -25f after 3hours., and really doesn't keep up even though the incoming solution is coming in at 32-35f. Still using dry ice to drop it down to -60f and then the immersion probe saves me some dry ice over time. I'm thinking of using it for a vacuum fore line trap instead.

Thanks for that info that was the same chiller I was looking at, need to look at other options now.
 
okay if the ic 69 is a single coil of 1/4 in copper why chouldnt you start out with a 12 in tall coil of 4in wide then bend a 6 in coil around the outside make it all fit in 3 gallon pot with dry ice and iso
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
okay if the ic 69 is a single coil of 1/4 in copper why chouldnt you start out with a 12 in tall coil of 4in wide then bend a 6 in coil around the outside make it all fit in 3 gallon pot with dry ice and iso

The Mt69 is 1/4" copper. For an ic69 everyone is using 3/8" or 1/2" ss.

Gw is already doing that. He has a triple core jockey box cooler. I believe one coil has the n2 running through it to chill the whole thing, a second coils for injection, and And a third coil for recovery off the haskel. I'm not positive but that's what I have deduced from his posts, I'm sure he will chime in now that's he's been name dropped again.
 

Sparton70

New member
As for options to maintain lower temperatures with a 3/8 50 coil I have it seems that LN2, salt water/ice bath or DI/ISO. Utilizing a 1 to 3 ratio of salt to ice I was able to get the bath to -20 C. The coil sits in a SS 60 gal pot that is insulated. I have read that DI/ISO goes to -77 C. Considering, many of you are using the DI/ISO method I am curious to know what the ratio is that you are using and what temps you are seeing. Any other best practices for a solution mix for the coil to sit in? Also, at what temp point do you notice that your lines start to become clogged as I have read this can be a potential problem when utilizing DI/ISO.

I am putting together another IC69 that will go between the recovery tank to the injection port and keep the recovery tank at room temp. After reading this thread it seems that is the to way to gain a little faster recovery time considering tank pressure. Is this correct?

Lastly, I am a little concerned that I may not have the correct procedure with regards to the last cycle soak. From my understanding the dump is opened and pulled to -22hg. At this point the recovery valve is closed and the pump is turned off. When this is done the lines and coil still have solvent and pressure. I did scale the tank and I could have swore it recovered all of the solvent but alas that couldn't be the case. How do you guys handle this? Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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