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Broad Mites?

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GK1

Member
Hey GK1 thanks for the Pylon/Phantom success story.

You are another beacon of light.

Would you recommend the Pylon instead of the Forbid, or use both in succession?

Thanks again!

Hey TP,
Just so you know, my original post about forbid/heat was not directed at you. More to those that are frustrated and thinking this is a super bug. It is not. Not even the POG version.
I saw ZERO ovicidal action from forbid. I would use Pylon/Phantom or Akari as a first strike. If you aren't comfy using Tetra-San as an ovicide than by all means use something else but always add an ovicide and wetting agent. Forbid is fine as a preventative in rotation. It takes a couple weeks to fully recover but you should see improvement quickly. The worst mistake I made was re applying too soon and mistaking phytotoxicity for BM symptoms. Those products work so give em time.
You're panicked now. Once you have them under control I would suggest taking a look at Nukem as a preventative. It is working and its FOOD GRADE! Nice.
Peace
 

GK1

Member
I just dropped Pylon bombs in veg yesturday and today everything is standing up and reaching for the light...best overnight result since adding aspirin.

Can someone please post a link to a recommended space heater with no thermal circuit protection?

That Pylon TR bomb ROCKS. Just be aware that it is NOT the same formulation as the Pylon SC.....so take nothing for granted and use a scope to be sure. Post results too! Peace.
 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty
ICMag Donor
Veteran
got them from clones. there is no BM damage anywhere on my property. never had them years up to getting said clones.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
All this talk about Forbid not working is horseshit......Forbid has a 4-10 day knockdown so the little jokers keep feeding for up to ten days! In my trials it also did NOT have ovicidal properties on BM's..... not a good choice for first application. Furthermore, Forbid is fairly phytotoxic.....doubling the recommended dosage or doing back to back applications to soon causes tremendous phytotoxic issues that manifest in symptoms that look EXACTLY like BM damage. So you have a 4-10 day knockdown and your re applying in 3-5 days? Doesn't make sense, isn't how the manufacturer recommends and your plants go through a "dud" phase that makes you so frustrated you toss your prized genetics. Gee, sounds like I've been there, huh? I don't want to argue this, just want to present some info for those still scratching their heads. What you do with it is up to you.

If you'd like to get away from poison's take a look at Nukem. I'm about 3 weeks from harvest and no signs or issues. None.

I battled BM's for a long time.....the issue is proper identification not eradication. Its really easy......Avid,Pylon,Akari,Forbid any one of those in a rotation with one application in veg. Add an ovicide such as Tetra-San. Heat treat your room in between runs. Thats it. I had BM's for almost 18 months before I was able to diagnose. The only thing I didn't mistake them for was TMV ;). Going "nuclear" and adding double strength Forbid did as much damage as the BM's. I have tossed out plants.....but in hindsight it was from improper applications of miticides rather than the bug itself. I am so confident that I took in cuts that were known to have BM's because my patients desperately needed that particular strain. I dealt with them and its over.

A thought on why I don't like heat treatment and why some people seem to have issues.....around 105f stomata completely close in an effort to conserve the water that is being lost.....the cell cannot vent heat or offgas.....the cell builds pressure and eventually bursts. Adding air fans simply increases the stress on cells and they burst sooner. Which is why the heat crowd always advises "no fans". Given this knowledge it should also be clear that what you've been foliar feeding or spraying as treatments is going to be locked in as well and will contribute greatly to the relative damage to your plants. Any translaminar miticides recently? You prob dont want to heat treat right after. The more you have applied to the leaf, the more potential for disaster. Hope that makes sense.

Agree with most of your post. Forbid definitely can cause damage if overused.
Re: heat treatments-I have never had any issues after a heat treatment. Only happy, praying plants. But I did not heat treat right after Forbid. Plants had been previously treated with Avid, but not within a few days. Probably at least a week after last Avid spray, if memory serves me. And, heat can be used in flower, unlike poisons. Had my biggest harvest/plants ever after heat treatments of BM infected plants. Not many options if you get them in flower. Haven't tried OGBIOWAR as of yet.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
got them from clones. there is no BM damage anywhere on my property. never had them years up to getting said clones.

You are fortunate they didn't get into your home/ducting system. I wasn't that lucky. They kept coming back, even after a 6 month "time out", with room torn down and cleaned twice. I believe I originally got them from decorative plants from Home Depot/Walmart garden shop. Stupid. Will never make that mistake again.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I'm about 1-3 weeks in with different seedling and I'm super paranoid now after trashing my lifes work about 3 weeks ago. Is it ok to heat treat something this small?

Never tried it on seedlings that young. In my experience starting from seed, symptoms show up exactly at two week mark. Seedlings start to sag. A dose of aspirin puts them back to "normal" looking overnight. I suggest giving aspirin to seedlings from the start to prevent damage from toxins. And keep using aspirin throughout the grow. Don't stop. Scope your seedlings to make sure they are actually infected before treating with anything. Hopefully, you did heat treatment between runs after you tossed the last group. Room should be clean after that, but you must keep scoping daily. Don't wait for damage to show up. If you scope and find mites/eggs, try heat treatment on one of them and see how they take it. Make sure they are hydrated and don't have any fans blowing on them. Let us know how it turns out, as this is an unexplored area, as far as I know.
 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You are fortunate they didn't get into your home/ducting system. I wasn't that lucky. They kept coming back, even after a 6 month "time out", with room torn down and cleaned twice. I believe I originally got them from decorative plants from Home Depot/Walmart garden shop. Stupid. Will never make that mistake again.

dont grow in the home and dont have ventilation. completely sealed.
 

GK1

Member
Agree with most of your post. Forbid definitely can cause damage if overused.
Re: heat treatments-I have never had any issues after a heat treatment. Only happy, praying plants. But I did not heat treat right after Forbid. Plants had been previously treated with Avid, but not within a few days. Probably at least a week after last Avid spray, if memory serves me. And, heat can be used in flower, unlike poisons. Had my biggest harvest/plants ever after heat treatments of BM infected plants. Not many options if you get them in flower. Haven't tried OGBIOWAR as of yet.


Hey Retro,
You and I have discussed heat treatments before. I am not knocking them nor do I think they are the be all answer. A few, and I stress few, have had issues with plant damage......simply some insight for them and maybe a few things to consider for noobs to heat.

Heat treating a new infestation discovered in bloom is indeed the only acceptable answer. My point is that I think there are many other alternatives that are better options if a known problem exists. Whether miticide or natural, these jokers are beatable.
I understand reintroduction of pest from surroundings......I simply haven't seen it to be an issue. I mistook toxin,phytotoxicity and even the slow effects of Forbid as reinfestation.
With one treatment in veg, I have no issues during bloom. My home grow has had BM's for 18 months and they don't find a way in......yet. ;) I am so confident with my protocols that I take in clones and am considering NOT treating my next set of veg plants. I know, sounds crazy.
I'm not busting anyone's chops. I just dont think they are unbeatable and certainly not worth throwing plants away.
A quick thought on toxin and "duds". The time it takes to come out of "dud"ville is directly proportional to the degree of infestation and can also be strain dependent. I have a Royal Flush mother from Gage Green that took almost two months in veg before it "came out". It all depends on how bad you want the lineage.......
Its pretty obvious in veg which plants are still struggling....if one flower sick plants, one has only themselves to blame.
I still heat treat my empty room, Thank you! Peace
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5180846&postcount=11

Ive been testing Kontos for over a year now... Works awesome after you've done all the treatments...

Triple Action Neem Oil and Essentria IC3 all day over Nuke em

GK1...Im growing over a 1,000 plants at 6 different locations at the moment... No BM issues over here.. its been that way for years for me... I go buy clones with BM's just for fun so I can test everything under then sun on them...

you saying Kontos doesn't work and Tetrasan is an Ovicide for BM's...pretty much tosses out everything you have to say ... Try re-reading this thread from Page 1
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I got some clones that have mites, but I need to save um. Does the hot water dip kill eggs and bugs?
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
I got some clones that have mites, but I need to save um. Does the hot water dip kill eggs and bugs?

I tried the hot water dunk for 15 minutes with clones about a month back.

The clones died right away. I don't think new, fresh clones or even small teens can handle the treatment.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I did a test on 2 clones, 120 degrees, left um in the water and forgot about um. bout an hour later took um out and they were fine. But do I repeat this in a couple days to catch the hatchlings or does it kill eggs too?

edit: the water was 120 when I put them in, but it slowly cooled down over the course of the hour. didn't leave um in 120 degree the whole time.
 

GK1

Member
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5180846&postcount=11

Ive been testing Kontos for over a year now... Works awesome after you've done all the treatments...

Triple Action Neem Oil and Essentria IC3 all day over Nuke em

GK1...Im growing over a 1,000 plants at 6 different locations at the moment... No BM issues over here.. its been that way for years for me... I go buy clones with BM's just for fun so I can test everything under then sun on them...

you saying Kontos doesn't work and Tetrasan is an Ovicide for BM's...pretty much tosses out everything you have to say ... Try re-reading this thread from Page 1

Kontos did not work for me. Period. Tetra-San working for me says only that I tried it and it worked. I do not care about labels, I used both products. I was not aware you had tried Kontos, so I'll back off on that but it did not work for me. It is also a systemic miticide and as you say "...after you do all the treatments..." No thank you on that merit alone. I apologize for assuming you hadn't tried Kontos yet. My bad.

Why is everything so confrontational with you? I'm not busting your chops just trying to present different experience. If I were busting chops I'd mention how you claim POG BM's are immune to Forbid but in the next post claim Forbid as the "only" ovicide against BM's. There are several posts in this thread indicating it does not work as an ovicide against BM's. I know, it works on all others but POG, RIGHT? ;) We must all have POG BM's! Should we discount everything you write as well? :)

Posting the number of grows or plants you have is not impressive.....kinda silly in my world. How about addresses next? I could play that BS card.....talk about my education in Ag etc. Yata yata.........BLOW ME!

I'll let my posts speak for themselves.

Have a great weekend SS.

Peace.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I did a test on 2 clones, 120 degrees, left um in the water and forgot about um. bout an hour later took um out and they were fine. But do I repeat this in a couple days to catch the hatchlings or does it kill eggs too?

edit: the water was 120 when I put them in, but it slowly cooled down over the course of the hour. didn't leave um in 120 degree the whole time.

You're going to have to scope them. That's the only way to know what's going on with these bastids. The heat should kill the eggs too, but you are going to have to keep your eye on them.
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
Phantom Termiticide Insecticide 21 oz bottle Brand: BASF
Chlorfenapyr 21.45%
Price: $58.45

Not For Sale to: AK, CT, NY, MA, SC, WA
 
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sunset limited

Member
Veteran
So SUNSET LIMITEDS cure all for Tarsonemid mites is BACILLUS THURINGIENSIS

This is direct form his previous post.

What do you guys think about "Sunset's cure"?

you're a funny guy. i know i'm amused.

i believe it was cap who referenced an academic paper that cited B. thuringiensis toxin as a known mite killer. that got me thinking that straight B. thuringiensis—which kills the shit out of gnats—MIGHT have some action against broad mites. after all, where better to get B. thuringiensis toxin than from B. thuringiensis?

i happen to have a lot of the shit laying around as well as a plant with mites, so i'm giving it a shot to see what happens. even if i do observe an improvement, it would hardly be conclusive. there is a wide gulf between testing a hypothesis and proffering the stuff as a miracle cure. i'm sure you already know this, but you won't get nearly as much attention ridiculing someone for collecting empirical evidence as you will for saying crazy shit.

anyway, here's that plant. it's tucked away in a room by itself with a few siblings that didn't bounce back. i'm going to treat it every 5 days with gnatrol diluted at a rate of 1tsp per gallon and compare it against an untreated plant of the same strain.

picture.php


long as i've got you guys, what do you make of these pics? the first two are taken from my stereo microscope with a janky little camera that fits where the eyepiece should go. they look a million times clearer in person.

picture.php


picture.php


the last is taken with a $30 no name usb scope.
picture.php


tell me what you all make of it.
 

Messodas

Member
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5180846&postcount=11

... I go buy clones with BM's just for fun so I can test everything under then sun on them... 1

You must be or very brave or you're an i....
As is your friend RG always saying, you can with that infect all the others 1000+ plants that you have. Be aware...

We have a heat wave, so tommorow is a heat t. day. It is working for me... At least I'm not hurting the plants, if nothing else...

Is there a hero who knows how is ogbiowar working with fertilizers, PK, aspirin?

Sunny day to you all...
 
OGB

OGB

You must be or very brave or you're an i....
As is your friend RG always saying, you can with that infect all the others 1000+ plants that you have. Be aware...

We have a heat wave, so tommorow is a heat t. day. It is working for me... At least I'm not hurting the plants, if nothing else...

Is there a hero who knows how is ogbiowar working with fertilizers, PK, aspirin?

Sunny day to you all...

These are "Cali Con" strains known to me to be particularly susceptible to BM damage .They where all showing signs of infection 5 weeks ago. (a couple of these are crosses I have made). Sprayed once a week for four weeks with OGB nothing conclusive yet (as I am waiting for a 500x digital camera/microscope.) I noticed what looks like eggs with my "pos" 10 dollar 100x scope and I am pretty sure they are trics as a couple of these strains are already smelling like fine meds. (they smell from standing a few yards away) Hence, the tric's that are giving off the smell already. Some of the healthiest plants I ever had.Time will tell.The indoor looks just as healthy. (The white splotches are talc residue from the OGB used as a carrier of the fungus). Just as a side note. I have been noticing dead moths and a grass-hopper and some other bugs at the base of the pots (on the ground around the pots base) never noticed this before.
 
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