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Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
- Start date
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OrganicOzarks
It lifts that weight right off of your shoulders.
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OrganicOzarks
Not a problem. I am glad that some other people can save their grows. I was ready to break down everything, and start form scratch. It was the worst feeling ever.
DoobieGrower
Member
Does anyone know how long these bastards hang around outdoors? What is the season for them? Or do they just hang around until they kill all your plants? I would think eventually the weather becomes unfavorable outdoors for them and they lay eggs, die then hatch again next year.
I still had some hanging around on a few of my outdoor plants when I put them out in May. Since then we had a 30 degree night and a 106 degree day and no plants show any signs of damage and are all throwing healthy clones. So worst case 2 months? I think it was the freeze that got them personally.
my exp with BM's outdoors in SoCal have been scary...they thrive way better outside than inside...
sednal
Active member
I had my first run in with these SOB's. After multi attempts at treating (tryed alot from this thread) i ended up so fed up and chopped my 7 indoor tent bushes down. I know where they came from, got clones from a buddy and he has them in his veg tent, did not even notice anything awry until they were put into the flower tent(perfect temps for BM)they really thrived when i put the plants into flower and they started to really get on bud sites after stretch was done. Anyways i have my room shutdown now and lights/fan off in the tent along with the veg chamber in the closet is off. This is the first time i have had a bug problem at this location and the first time i did not start the clones here after over 6+ years....lesson learned.
My Question(s):
How long with no plant matter or anything to live on can BM's live in a room? When i say room this is a finished basement bedroom with a large tent setup and a closet converted to veg. Should i turn the lights on and leave them on or should i leave everything off and in the dark? Should i wipe the tent down? and with what? With everything off now the temp is at 72, can get it lower by turning on ac..Was just reading the info on temps and times of the fucker itself, mabye turning on my grow lights without turning my air cooling on can wipe any left inside of the tent out or speed up the process? though even though the bushes were touching the sides while they were infested i don't think the things would jump ship(the nice sugary green plant) to a hot inside of the tent thats reflective..?!?!?!i don't know im at my whits end with these things. Although the inside of the tent im sure has a lot of thc crystals from bads hitting the sides over the past years...
My Question(s):
How long with no plant matter or anything to live on can BM's live in a room? When i say room this is a finished basement bedroom with a large tent setup and a closet converted to veg. Should i turn the lights on and leave them on or should i leave everything off and in the dark? Should i wipe the tent down? and with what? With everything off now the temp is at 72, can get it lower by turning on ac..Was just reading the info on temps and times of the fucker itself, mabye turning on my grow lights without turning my air cooling on can wipe any left inside of the tent out or speed up the process? though even though the bushes were touching the sides while they were infested i don't think the things would jump ship(the nice sugary green plant) to a hot inside of the tent thats reflective..?!?!?!i don't know im at my whits end with these things. Although the inside of the tent im sure has a lot of thc crystals from bads hitting the sides over the past years...
Use heat treatment in your tent and on all your grow gear. But be aware that once these are in your environment, they will always come back from other areas of your house/yard, so you have to remain vigilant and keep treating.
sednal
Active member
I really cant see how they are now here forever? after one infestation. I will open the windows during the winter and chill the house to ~35 if i have to. I have harsh winters here. Like i said in my post i know how i got them..they are not natural to this area nor could they survive a full year outside. The tent where they were had negative preasure and no ducts coming in or going out of the room its in. No other house plants on the same floor also. I plan on going ahead with heat treatment as room is empty but really don't see if this wipes them how they could come back? do eggs go into stasis or something? So back to my root question how long do these things stay alive without food and or whats considered as food if no plants are left? How far will they travel themselves? anywhere i would have piggybacked them to would have been the shower or bed room and no plants there and no signs of anything awry.. I will also replace every house plant at the same time during this. Feedback wanted, is there anyone that has gone through something similar?
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Last stand
Member
After a year or so of thinking I lost my skills I finally found out I had cyclamen mites. I guess they're pretty much the same as broad so here we go. I chased nutrient deficiencies, toxicities, changed grow mediums, bought new hoods nutes ph pens, genetics etc etc.... After many tens of thousands in lost production I finally found out my problem. I'm in the midwest and apparently I'm the lucky first person at least in my circle of people. I've pretty much read the whole thread and I'll be going avid, forbid, triple action neem, conserve sc, i have indicate 5. And ive been using aspirin 325mg per gallon. I'll also be dropping 50k swirski predators at week three of flower for the foreseeable future. I realized my problem right before flip and I hadn't found this thread yet so my problem is showing again in week 4. I used avid and forbid but without the indicate 5, and only at 1ml per gallon, I noticed StormShadowrecommended a higher concentration, if only i found this thread a minth sooner. I have 50k swirski predators on the way but they won't be here till next Friday. My question is, should I just trash all my big ones to make it easier to treat cuts? I feel like i know enough to do it properly now and they're not even in cups yet, still trayed up and I'm planning on getting very aggressive, dipping in avid or forbid every day for a week or so then every three days through veg rotated with other products. I've also heard nuke em and a few other products work but I wrote em down and don't remember what they're called. Heat won't work because my space is too large. Is there anything I can do for duds? My plants don't have that stink they used to, should I just throw them away? I've been collecting and breeding for almost 20 years hoping one day my state would grow up and I could sell my seeds but ill do whatever I gotta do, these things are just so gnarly. I dont even know if I trust my seed stock now because some of them came from infected plants, so I have lots of seeds on the way just in case, cali con GSC, GDP phantom cookies, purp, candyland and some other stuff but that's besides the point. Thanks to grow tech, storm and so many others for the work they put into this thread, I plan on paying it forward once my situation is under control.
Last stand
Member
Please excuse typos I used my iPhone.
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OrganicOzarks
Way to much work, and way to much money. OGBIOWAR foliar, and they are gone in 3-4 days. I know exactly how you feel, and I can relate to your situation. With chemicals you may never really get rid of them. Many people on here are showing signs of BM toxin for up to a year. I don't believe this to be true. I believe they still had BM's. My plants are showing no signs of anything at all other than fast new growth.
I even got about half of my eggplants to bounce back. They were looking pretty fucked up.
I to am the only person I know in my area to be so lucky to have gotten these critters.
Last stand
Member
I really want to believe in that OGbiowar it's just I'm so jaded now, everywhere I look someone has a cure they can sell me. I guess it can't hurt to try though, will it kill my swirski predators? I really don't care if it does as long as it works.
From Wiki: Snake oil is an expression that originally referred to fraudulent health products or unproven medicine but has come to refer to any product with questionable or unverifiable quality or benefit. By extension, a snake oil salesman is someone who knowingly sells fraudulent goods or who is himself or herself a fraud, quack, charlatan, and the like.
Caveat emptor...as a fool and his money are soon parted.
IMHO...lots of good solutions in this thread along with a goodly amount of snake oil science too!
Caveat emptor...as a fool and his money are soon parted.
IMHO...lots of good solutions in this thread along with a goodly amount of snake oil science too!
bubbler720
Member
my conclusions
my conclusions
I can share my conclusions: the pesticides worked to knock down and kill the broadmites; but the original infestation was so severe the saved plants dudded out when propagated or flipped. The last fight I had was to save a crop in flower - the girls were badly infested in veg, saved by avid/forbid/neem/spinosad and then thriving in veg. I took cuts of these which rooted only to stunt - no new growth 2-3 weeks after roots. Once flipped, pistols developed way too fast, after a few days instead of 2-3 weeks. And the pistols were weak/brown/sad looking. I bought the swirskis and they're working - can see 'em running all over. But they can't save my crop - which doesn't have BM's anymore - but is filled with the toxins BMs leave behind. I've used Aspirin for about 2 months now and maybe it's helping but not enough. Once I toss this crop it will be the last of my previous genetics -- all lost to the far reaching damage caused by the toxin they leave in the plant.
New genetics arrived and I'm preparing to start anew. I'm in a high altitude/cold climate BMs non-native. I got mine from infected clones. I don't believe they can survive in my areas that have been completely sanitized. I will still be doing preventative dips and sprays for a month or two until it becomes clear they are eradicated.
Your questions: Trash all big ones to make treating cuts easier? anything to do for duds?
Storm said earlier in this post once genetics dud, trash them. I had a hard time believing the BM toxicity could long term effect the DNA/genetics. But it is true, from experience. It seems like some folks on this thread are having success with different treatments, many of which I've applied, but their success relates more to the degree of original infestation. Fight the fight for sure - don't give up - but once you see the pattern that I'm seeing - continued duds in propagation and flower - with no BMs to be found after thorough scoping - toss 'em and start fresh.
my conclusions
I can share my conclusions: the pesticides worked to knock down and kill the broadmites; but the original infestation was so severe the saved plants dudded out when propagated or flipped. The last fight I had was to save a crop in flower - the girls were badly infested in veg, saved by avid/forbid/neem/spinosad and then thriving in veg. I took cuts of these which rooted only to stunt - no new growth 2-3 weeks after roots. Once flipped, pistols developed way too fast, after a few days instead of 2-3 weeks. And the pistols were weak/brown/sad looking. I bought the swirskis and they're working - can see 'em running all over. But they can't save my crop - which doesn't have BM's anymore - but is filled with the toxins BMs leave behind. I've used Aspirin for about 2 months now and maybe it's helping but not enough. Once I toss this crop it will be the last of my previous genetics -- all lost to the far reaching damage caused by the toxin they leave in the plant.
New genetics arrived and I'm preparing to start anew. I'm in a high altitude/cold climate BMs non-native. I got mine from infected clones. I don't believe they can survive in my areas that have been completely sanitized. I will still be doing preventative dips and sprays for a month or two until it becomes clear they are eradicated.
Your questions: Trash all big ones to make treating cuts easier? anything to do for duds?
Storm said earlier in this post once genetics dud, trash them. I had a hard time believing the BM toxicity could long term effect the DNA/genetics. But it is true, from experience. It seems like some folks on this thread are having success with different treatments, many of which I've applied, but their success relates more to the degree of original infestation. Fight the fight for sure - don't give up - but once you see the pattern that I'm seeing - continued duds in propagation and flower - with no BMs to be found after thorough scoping - toss 'em and start fresh.
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OrganicOzarks
There is no need to toss all of your plants. I have a flower room a bit over 4 weeks in, and I am going to get bigger than usual yields. All of my mothers are fine. All clones are fine.
It has to be different grow styles, and not completely getting rid of the BM.
I was prepared for the worst, and honestly it is not that big of a deal if you treat properly, and feed your plants correctly. It is just another pest.
It has to be different grow styles, and not completely getting rid of the BM.
I was prepared for the worst, and honestly it is not that big of a deal if you treat properly, and feed your plants correctly. It is just another pest.
Cull all infested plants...treat all infected plants.
For what it is worth...back when I had broad mites on almost every plant (no mas...two treatments with the concoction I shared earlier in this thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5835290&postcount=1481 and zero--everything is growing the way they used to be--like they are on steroids), I treated the ones in flower with a product the hydo store gave me to test against broad mites: "aurAlive SM/PM-Wash" (hypochlorous acid and harmonically enhanced water). http://auralivehydro.com/content.php?129-Products
Per Wiki: Hypochlorous acid is a weak acid with the chemical formula HOCl. It forms when chlorine dissolves in water. It cannot be isolated in pure form due to rapid equilibration with its precursor. HOCl is an oxidizer, and as its sodium salt sodium hypochlorite, (NaClO), or its calcium salt calcium hypochlorite, (Ca(CIO)2) is used as a bleach, a deodorant, and a disinfectant.
I had a group in flower that were not culled (infected but not infested) that were going for harvest (various phases & weeks) that I liberally sprayed with the product diluted 1:1 with water. Hint: use a "low velocity-low pressure" paint sprayer to spray the plants; best thing ever!
Results: Significant reduction/knockdown of BMs, but no eradication--but it crispy fried any and all leaves exhibiting stress damage. No biggy, as I usually clip damaged leaves anyway...but it just hastened the process. Leaves with zero stress signs were fine, no other issues, buds were gorgeous and the smoke report was the usual "great!".
The plants I sprayed in veg showed the same signs: leaves with itsy bitsy signs of stress dried up and withered, like going from 0 to 100 in a day or so...leaving behind all the "healthy leaves".
Would I use it again? Yes, as evidenced by partial gallon container sitting on my shelf...but only for plants in flower. My routine is to spray my concoction every 15 days or so...and it has been months since I have seen the little shits! (knocks on wood)
For what it is worth...back when I had broad mites on almost every plant (no mas...two treatments with the concoction I shared earlier in this thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5835290&postcount=1481 and zero--everything is growing the way they used to be--like they are on steroids), I treated the ones in flower with a product the hydo store gave me to test against broad mites: "aurAlive SM/PM-Wash" (hypochlorous acid and harmonically enhanced water). http://auralivehydro.com/content.php?129-Products
Per Wiki: Hypochlorous acid is a weak acid with the chemical formula HOCl. It forms when chlorine dissolves in water. It cannot be isolated in pure form due to rapid equilibration with its precursor. HOCl is an oxidizer, and as its sodium salt sodium hypochlorite, (NaClO), or its calcium salt calcium hypochlorite, (Ca(CIO)2) is used as a bleach, a deodorant, and a disinfectant.
I had a group in flower that were not culled (infected but not infested) that were going for harvest (various phases & weeks) that I liberally sprayed with the product diluted 1:1 with water. Hint: use a "low velocity-low pressure" paint sprayer to spray the plants; best thing ever!
Results: Significant reduction/knockdown of BMs, but no eradication--but it crispy fried any and all leaves exhibiting stress damage. No biggy, as I usually clip damaged leaves anyway...but it just hastened the process. Leaves with zero stress signs were fine, no other issues, buds were gorgeous and the smoke report was the usual "great!".
The plants I sprayed in veg showed the same signs: leaves with itsy bitsy signs of stress dried up and withered, like going from 0 to 100 in a day or so...leaving behind all the "healthy leaves".
Would I use it again? Yes, as evidenced by partial gallon container sitting on my shelf...but only for plants in flower. My routine is to spray my concoction every 15 days or so...and it has been months since I have seen the little shits! (knocks on wood)
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