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Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
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I use them in my veg room ,but not in bud room.
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Well I decided to toss all of my plants in week 4 flower, Im on the fence about tossing clones and starting with fresh beans. I have 50k swirskis that will arrive friday so maybe I could drop them in my clone domes and see if they eat all remaining eggs before the pesticides kill them. I'm even tossing my seed stock I've created over the last decade because some of them have come out of infested plants. I have a massive order on the way as we speak.
I respect everyones opinion on this issue but Storm Shadows approach is the one I'm going to take. I've noticed you're moa's have adapted over time but would you still basically advocate "Forbid 3ml a gallon mixed with Indicate 5....3 days later....Avid 2.5ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5.... 3 days later Spinosad 60ml per Gallon mixed with INdicate 5.... 2 days later Triple Action Neem Oil mix per label DO NOT Use with any wetting agent....2 days later Azatrol or Azamax 30ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5..I like Neemix 4.5 way better then Azamax or Azatrol... Azasol would be awsome too...."? Would this be acceptable with cuttings that aren't in cups yet, and do you ph it? Also I'm confused about the regalia, does this help with duds, do you still recommend this? Thanks!
I respect everyones opinion on this issue but Storm Shadows approach is the one I'm going to take. I've noticed you're moa's have adapted over time but would you still basically advocate "Forbid 3ml a gallon mixed with Indicate 5....3 days later....Avid 2.5ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5.... 3 days later Spinosad 60ml per Gallon mixed with INdicate 5.... 2 days later Triple Action Neem Oil mix per label DO NOT Use with any wetting agent....2 days later Azatrol or Azamax 30ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5..I like Neemix 4.5 way better then Azamax or Azatrol... Azasol would be awsome too...."? Would this be acceptable with cuttings that aren't in cups yet, and do you ph it? Also I'm confused about the regalia, does this help with duds, do you still recommend this? Thanks!
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One more question, what are you currently spraying during flower and up to what week? Do you believe swirskis could play a part during this phase? Thanks again!
In flower, I would use that AurAlive I mentioned above...all the way upto harvest.
M
MegaHermie
FWIW - I've had a few moms that dudded out on me and no one else I know had them. So I kept dud moms for anywhere from 1-1.5 years. Original Tahoe mom, Larry mom and Ass Clown clone only( all og's dud very hard compared to other strains) I've been using hygrozyme along with normal nutes the whole time.
These things were on their death bed after so long being a dud with a few clones taken here and there. The clones would eventually die off everytime ( sometimes they were already in 1 gallons). Picked up a small bottle of cannazym and it lasted about a month. The ass clown mom came out of dud instantly after about a month of the cannazym (perfect clones ready to take, big leaves, very watery full of life) Larry and Tahoe were only about half out of dud at that point but all moms regained a noticeable about of vigor after using the cannazym for a month. Bought a large jug of it and put the Larry and Tahoe in the new greenhouse so I'm sure they will be out of dud soon to take clones for new mom.
Thought I would share for those that have some special dud strains that they are trying to revive. I used 10ml of hygrozyme per gallon every watering.
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These things were on their death bed after so long being a dud with a few clones taken here and there. The clones would eventually die off everytime ( sometimes they were already in 1 gallons). Picked up a small bottle of cannazym and it lasted about a month. The ass clown mom came out of dud instantly after about a month of the cannazym (perfect clones ready to take, big leaves, very watery full of life) Larry and Tahoe were only about half out of dud at that point but all moms regained a noticeable about of vigor after using the cannazym for a month. Bought a large jug of it and put the Larry and Tahoe in the new greenhouse so I'm sure they will be out of dud soon to take clones for new mom.
Thought I would share for those that have some special dud strains that they are trying to revive. I used 10ml of hygrozyme per gallon every watering.
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Hey eclipse 420 that is a gnarly mix in post 1481, all I have now are clones still in oasis cubes should I wait till they're established to apply a concoction like that? I've been dipping them in avid and forbid for now.
Drop the forbid (it is not for broad mites...read the label)[edit--I was thinking Floramite....Forbid is effective on broadmites] and certainly use the concoction on any and all plants in veg. I just sprayed everything as a precaution (still have a few plants that were alive during the infestation...and I want zero issues...call it paranoid--I call it extra insurance). I sprayed clone cuttings that were 2 days in soil (cloned from the plant 12 days ago), babies in small cups, juveniles in 1/2 gallon square pots, and of course the mamas and all production girls in 5 gallons.
Naturally, do the normal spraying precaution--spray with lights dimmed or do what I did, turned off the MH and turned on a few CFLs (so I could see) and turned everything back on once the the leaves dried. Spray liberally (until runoff) and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves. Remove any taco leaves and any leaf that looks "suspicious".
It worked for me, for some others...and I hope it works for you!
BTW...I would also spray in about 5-7 days with a fertility spray with that will bless you with roots and good foliage (and help BM recovery):
Water 1 gallon
Rhizotonic 15 ml
Urea 0.5 grams
Cocowet 2.5 ml
Even spray the clones under dome...without major root formations. It will accelerate it...BTW, I use Rhizotonic stricly as a foliar spray...not as a medium additive.
Cheers & good luck man!
Edit...Forbid is effective on broadmites--I was thinking about Floramite, oops. My bad!
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As I've posted several times, I've emptied my room for 6 months, sterilized everything as much as possible both on tear down and rebuild. Started new seeds, and at the two week mark, symptoms began manifesting. They were back, even after 6 months. Maybe really cold climates keeps them in check, but I know eggs can survive winters in some places. Once in your house, they are really tough to totally eradicate them to the point where they don't come back. Don't know how they survive, but they do.
Freeze sucka put down the Forbid!! Agree completely
Freeze sucka put down the Forbid!! Agree completely
no mas.
Freeze sucka put down the Forbid!! Agree completely
no mas.
http://www.syngentaflowers.com/country/us/en/seeds/PDF%20and%20Other%20document%20Storage%20Library/GoldsmithSeeds_PDF/WhitePapers/Mite%20Rotations.pdf
Page 9
Broad and Cyclamen Mite Controls
●Not all miticides control broad mites
●Avid, Judo, Pylon, Sanmite/Akari will control broad mites
●Cyclamen mites and Eriophyid mites can be harder to control and identify since they are hidden in buds
Cyclamen Mite
Abamectin (Avid)
Chlorfenapyr (Pylon)
Fenpyroximate (Akari)
Spiromesifen (Judo) aka FORBID The only OVACIDE for BM
Broad Mite
Abamectin (Avid)
Chlorfenapyr (Pylon)
Fenpyroximate (Akari)
Spiromesifen (Judo) aka FORBID The only OVACIDE for BM
Pyridiben (Sanmite)
Page 9
Broad and Cyclamen Mite Controls
●Not all miticides control broad mites
●Avid, Judo, Pylon, Sanmite/Akari will control broad mites
●Cyclamen mites and Eriophyid mites can be harder to control and identify since they are hidden in buds
Cyclamen Mite
Abamectin (Avid)
Chlorfenapyr (Pylon)
Fenpyroximate (Akari)
Spiromesifen (Judo) aka FORBID The only OVACIDE for BM
Broad Mite
Abamectin (Avid)
Chlorfenapyr (Pylon)
Fenpyroximate (Akari)
Spiromesifen (Judo) aka FORBID The only OVACIDE for BM
Pyridiben (Sanmite)
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Thanks man this things really had me down lately I got kids to feed, this is my passion and quite frankly all I know how to do. My forbid 4f label does include tarsonemid mites including broad mites and cyclamen mite, you may be thinking of floramite. http://www.treecarescience.com/uploads/Labels/Forbid_4F_specimen_label.pdf.
I'll be picking up the ingredients I don't currently have in your concoction tomorrow, I plan on throwing anything and everything at these demons.
I reread this thread today and noticed someone said their lemon strain took the worst of this. I scoped up my clones today and all were pretty much in the clear but my super lemon haze and lemon diesel, they were literally covered in eggs. I threw them away of course but this may need to be looked into. Most of these strains probably share some genetic similarities that make them more attractive to the things. IDK but something to think about for anyone battling this thing currently running a lemon strain.
I'll be picking up the ingredients I don't currently have in your concoction tomorrow, I plan on throwing anything and everything at these demons.
I reread this thread today and noticed someone said their lemon strain took the worst of this. I scoped up my clones today and all were pretty much in the clear but my super lemon haze and lemon diesel, they were literally covered in eggs. I threw them away of course but this may need to be looked into. Most of these strains probably share some genetic similarities that make them more attractive to the things. IDK but something to think about for anyone battling this thing currently running a lemon strain.
http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/SPEC/LABELS/Forbid_4F Label.pdf
Provides knockdown and residual control of all developmental stages of mites.
Tarsonemid mites (including broad mites and cyclamen mites)
^^ that's from the Forbid Label ....
Provides knockdown and residual control of all developmental stages of mites.
Tarsonemid mites (including broad mites and cyclamen mites)
^^ that's from the Forbid Label ....
Essentria IC3 Insecticide Concentrate + Triple Action Neem is a pretty lethal combo...str8 contact killer and its all botanical oils..
Conserve SC at 15ml a gallon will do some amazing shit...
Bifenthrin smells like Eagle20..pure Chemical Death....takes care of BM's though
lambda-cyhalothrin is my new favorite one....
Don't sleep on Sulfur Dunks.... some plants will be mad...but in the end will be just fine and free of the Plague ...
Conserve SC at 15ml a gallon will do some amazing shit...
Bifenthrin smells like Eagle20..pure Chemical Death....takes care of BM's though
lambda-cyhalothrin is my new favorite one....
Don't sleep on Sulfur Dunks.... some plants will be mad...but in the end will be just fine and free of the Plague ...
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I can't thank everyone enough considering most of you have already beaten this thing. Hopefully one day I'll be in the clear and able to pay it forward. I think I have cyclamen because my buds crackle and they like to get in there. I just went DEFCON 5 and threw out my clones and all my in house seeds just to be safe. I have some new beans popping at another location that I'll bring over once a THOROUGH cleaning is accomplished. I just got my dino lite scope yesterday so I don't have many pics. I wish I would've snapped a pic of my lemon cuts, they were literally covered in eggs, I panicked and ran to the toilet to flush them.
Milky white, notice no bumps thats what leads me to believe they're cyclamen. Another is clear I think its a fresh egg, and one is from a further zoom to show just how small they are.
Milky white, notice no bumps thats what leads me to believe they're cyclamen. Another is clear I think its a fresh egg, and one is from a further zoom to show just how small they are.
I stand corrected...Floramite is not effective but Forbid is. Sorry, my bad! Saw "forbid" and my brain read "floramite"--oops.
You know that both bifenthrin and lambda-cyhalothrin are pyrethroid insecticide--synthetic chemical form of pyrethrins with similar "modes of action" but have longer half-lives that number in weeks: Soil half-lifes for Bifenthrin ranged 122-345 days and lambda-cyhalothrin 10-42 days.
May I suggest an alternative water based pyrethrin product called, Riptide--5% pyrethrin and 25% PBO, with half-life of a few days--not weeks.
Hate to see unnecessary pesticide residual buildup in plant tissues!
Cheers!
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