Broad Mites?

[Hosttrevor]

Not enough posts made to edit posts yet, 50 posts if I remember correctly.

Retro, I wanted to add, What schedule have you found best for repeat heat treatments for keeping them at bay. I don't wanna use chems apart from when they're very young, ie 2-3 weeks before switching to 12/12s.

Thanks, Trev

 

[ICbuds]

It could be the DEA or CIA?

IMHO it is due to globalization. Produce is being shipped around the world like never before, and pests hitch a ride along with it.

broad mites are a tropical species and probably native to some obscure corner of the earth, the local rain forest is slashed and burned and a mango farm opens up. Mangoes are exported to the US and before you know it some old guys favorite canna plants are infested with the dreaded broads.

I think we can expect more horrible critters to show up in the future!

scary world we live in!

 

[SooperSmurph]

Considering how long people have been fighting "tobacco mosaic virus" seems like broads have been in north america for some time.

 

[LEDNewbie]

Not enough posts made to edit posts yet, 50 posts if I remember correctly.

Retro, I wanted to add, What schedule have you found best for repeat heat treatments for keeping them at bay. I don't wanna use chems apart from when they're very young, ie 2-3 weeks before switching to 12/12s.

Thanks, Trev

I did heat treatments every 2 weeks in veg. Did one right at flip to 12/12. I will be ending week 3 flower In a couple days and plan on doing one more heat treatment and then I'm going to cross my fingers and hope plants go another 6 weeks bm free?!?!

 

[RetroGrow]

I've just scoped again, no mites to be seen again, but still a lot of eggs. Can I assume those eggs cant hatch now because of the temps they've been exposed to? Is this batch of eggs now confined to history?

Might be difficult to recognise them if they came back unless they discolour/fall off over time, of course any new growth shouldn't have any eggs on once the next lot of growth comes through.

Thanks, Trev

Those eggs are dead. Keep scoping, and treat as necessary. Everyone's situation is different. As long as you are seeing only dead mites, and none moving, you are good, but treatment should be repeated as often as needed/practical. I would say two weeks is a good rule of thumb, unless you see more BMs entering your room before that. Get used to scoping every day or two and looking for live BMs. It's a pain in the ass, but unfortunately necessary.

 

[RetroGrow]

I don't know how anyone has the gaul to bad rep you, as I know they have done on some threads. You're a scholar and a gentleman with a big heart to spend time helping others. I imagine it must really p*ss you off, it would me, but let me speak for the more sensible people here mate, you're really up there dude!!
Seriously Retro and others who've put there knowledge and experiences here for all, a F*CKING big thankyou!! ;-)

Thanks for the kind words. It's that ghetto jackass Storm Shadow with the neg reps. He even created a new fake ID to rep with as he praises himself. He is a pinhead, and his neg reps don't bother me at all. It just shows what a small minded person he is. There are a couple others who resent anyone coming up with any other ideas besides dousing them with poison who don't like anyone else offering alternative solutions.

 

[RetroGrow]

I did heat treatments every 2 weeks in veg. Did one right at flip to 12/12. I will be ending week 3 flower In a couple days and plan on doing one more heat treatment and then I'm going to cross my fingers and hope plants go another 6 weeks bm free?!?!

You can continue with heat treatments in flower or go to predators. Heat won't hurt flowers. Just don't have fans blowing on them. Keep scoping and don't assume they won't return.

 

[Some old dude]

Weening of poison

Weening of poison

Thanks for the kind words. It's that ghetto jackass Storm Shadow with the neg reps. He even created a new fake ID to rep with as he praises himself. He is a pinhead, and his neg reps don't bother me at all. It just shows what a small minded person he is. There are a couple others who resent anyone coming up with any other ideas besides dousing them with poison who don't like anyone else offering alternative solutions.

I am personally In favor for getting off the poisons as well. So much so That if these methods of heat , Swirskii mites , and a "weening off" or transition from a total clean grow that started with "Judo" to using heat and or predators does not work as planned I will probably just do a single outside grow per year. And that would svck ash. I am not convinced I can have a successful grow with an occasional number of BM's on my plants controlling the damage with aspirin but I'm going to try like hell to prove myself wrong.I would rather use the predators hoping they will eventually taker over and colonize in and around my entire home and grow. Just adding to the existing colony every couple months.I started with a BM free mothers using "judo" then heat treated both mother room and empty flower room . Then knowing the Judo would be working for some time I started the "Predator program" knowing that "Judo" was very forgiving to predator mites. I will fight them with every means except poisons from now on. If someone follows this way of battle i would suggest though If they absolutely have to... to use Judo or the Other miticides that are not considered a "neurotoxin or carcinogen" as the active ingredient "spiromesifen" is what Judo ,Forbid and Oberon are ,and are used on food crops. And this may sound like I endorse using this poison believe me I do not. For one thing I do not trust the company's that make these poisons to tell the truth for one thing. After this testing of heat and or predators is complete I will have more to offer. I believe Retrogrow is on to something important. I will be using the predators for a number of weeks then using a heat treatment then re-stocking with predators. The judo should wear off completely within the next three to four months or sooner time will tell.During this time that the judo is in effect I will continue with the heat treatment and predator regime. Then I will be able to determine or sort out what is going on much better. All the very best...!
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Awi1Su_RyvK-v49Rv5yYk8A&bvm=bv.47008514,d.cGE

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Awi1Su_RyvK-v49Rv5yYk8A&bvm=bv.47008514,d.cGE

 

[Storm Shadow]

Sulfur works amazing for those of you scared of Chems... some of your plants might show a small bit of toxicity from it....but they will be fine...and the evil BM's will be toast...

Use 50% Sulfur and up ... It works better on Smaller plants...in all honesty...if you have a bad case of BM's...you should toss all your shit and start over.... say you kill all of them...but the kicker is this...that fucken toxin they inject into the plant can linger for years! I have a mom that was infected 2 years ago and never grew the same again....weak ass branches....less trichs....less stank...the whole 9 yards... some genetics no problem..once you kill them your good...but beware...

BM's and Dudding is a horrible feeling..... your whole crop will be Hemp City

 

[Storm Shadow]

I am personally In favor for getting off the poisons as well. So much so That if these methods of heat , Swirskii mites , and a "weening off" or transition from a total clean grow that started with "Judo" to using heat and or predators does not work as planned I will probably just do a single outside grow per year. And that would svck ash. I am not convinced I can have a successful grow with an occasional number of BM's on my plants controlling the damage with aspirin but I'm going to try like hell to prove myself wrong.I would rather use the predators hoping they will eventually taker over and colonize in and around my entire home and grow. Just adding to the existing colony every couple months.I started with a BM free mothers using "judo" then heat treated both mother room and empty flower room . Then knowing the Judo would be working for some time I started the "Predator program" knowing that "Judo" was very forgiving to predator mites. I will fight them with every means except poisons from now on. If someone follows this way of battle i would suggest though If they absolutely have to... to use Judo or the Other miticides that are not considered a "neurotoxin or carcinogen" as the active ingredient "spiromesifen" is what Judo ,Forbid and Oberon are ,and are used on food crops. And this may sound like I endorse using this poison believe me I do not. For one thing I do not trust the company's that make these poisons to tell the truth for one thing. After this testing of heat and or predators is complete I will have more to offer. I believe Retrogrow is on to something important. I will be using the predators for a number of weeks then using a heat treatment then re-stocking with predators. The judo should wear off completely within the next three to four months or sooner time will tell.During this time that the judo is in effect I will continue with the heat treatment and predator regime. Then I will be able to determine or sort out what is going on much better. All the very best...!

Judo is amazing...give it a couple of weeks... use it twice with Distilled water and nice wetting agent.... You'll be BM free in no time

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://www.woodcreekfarm.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails&Item=40204

Works like a champ...proven to get the job done

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://www.calloways.com/curling-tomato-leaves

Broad Mites—Broad mites are one of the most common pests that gardeners have to deal with when it comes to tomatoes. Broad mites are tiny mites that are difficult to see even with a magnifying glass. They consume young leaves and flowers, and leave behind a toxin that makes the leaves twist and curl. To identify a broad mite problem, be sure to check the bottom of the leaves for small, white, oval-shaped eggs, which are larger and easier to see than the mites themselves. If spotted early on, a sulfur-based miticide can take care of the problem so long as the cultivar is sulfur-tolerant.

Typically, once the curling of leaves and other symptoms of a virus or infestation are visible, the only option is removing the plants and starting over next season. However, if you decide to treat your plants in some way to combat the illness or pest problem, you need to be certain you know what you are dealing with so that you do not further the damage.

 

[Some old dude]

Thats the whole problem

Thats the whole problem

Judo is amazing...give it a couple of weeks... use it twice with Distilled water and nice wetting agent.... You'll be BM free in no time

I have been using Judo for the last couple of years. And it does eliminate the bm problem until you have to use it again . For me it usually works on the mothers for two grow cycles. I don't like using any thing I consider a poison on my meds. I consider Judo,forbid Oberon and many other pesticides used on fruits and crops poisons.The idea freaks me out. Never had to use poisons for the thirty five years i been a grower until the last 6-7 years. And I do not trust the chem companys as far as I can spit. Forbid was in fact classified differently During the republican admins (as usually happens) the mighty green and i mean money is all the that matters the EPA is usually ignored during repub admins. And it was reclassified for food crops during Bush . As before it was not.But it works well, and I have been trying to get a testing company to test for Forbid but for some strange reason no -one will touch it.

 

[Some old dude]

Sulfer meds

Sulfer meds

http://www.woodcreekfarm.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails&Item=40204

Works like a champ...proven to get the job done

Sulfur Taste no thanks .

 

[LEDNewbie]

I honestly don't think there is any Way possible things like avid or forbid can remain in our mj plants if given enough time. Especially if applied in early veg. Our plants grow so big so fast how can any chemical remain??? Oh well, everyone has there beliefs and ways they want to beat these little bastards!!! That's why I love this thread. I'm taking a little of every method and making my own

If I finish off my current grow Bm free then I'll continue with what worked. Avid and forbid applied in veg with heat treatments every 2-3 weeks up until week 3 or 5 of flower.

Will keep this thread updated if this routine is successful this round

 

[Hosttrevor]

I am personally In favor for getting off the poisons as well. So much so That if these methods of heat , Swirskii mites , and a "weening off" or transition from a total clean grow that started with "Judo" to using heat and or predators does not work as planned I will probably just do a single outside grow per year. And that would svck ash. I am not convinced I can have a successful grow with an occasional number of BM's on my plants controlling the damage with aspirin but I'm going to try like hell to prove myself wrong.I would rather use the predators hoping they will eventually taker over and colonize in and around my entire home and grow. Just adding to the existing colony every couple months.I started with a BM free mothers using "judo" then heat treated both mother room and empty flower room . Then knowing the Judo would be working for some time I started the "Predator program" knowing that "Judo" was very forgiving to predator mites. I will fight them with every means except poisons from now on. If someone follows this way of battle i would suggest though If they absolutely have to... to use Judo or the Other miticides that are not considered a "neurotoxin or carcinogen" as the active ingredient "spiromesifen" is what Judo ,Forbid and Oberon are ,and are used on food crops. And this may sound like I endorse using this poison believe me I do not. For one thing I do not trust the company's that make these poisons to tell the truth for one thing. After this testing of heat and or predators is complete I will have more to offer. I believe Retrogrow is on to something important. I will be using the predators for a number of weeks then using a heat treatment then re-stocking with predators. The judo should wear off completely within the next three to four months or sooner time will tell.During this time that the judo is in effect I will continue with the heat treatment and predator regime. Then I will be able to determine or sort out what is going on much better. All the very best...!

Well said mate. Will check Judo out as a treatment for new clones coming in if its good, does it kill eggs do you know?

Storm Shadow = you say if you notice BM damage you may as well toss em and start again. If that is the case. how do you account for Truecannabliss winning the cannabis cup with bud that came from a once BM infested plant?

My little ones were riddled, pics on page 78, and may not make it, but since heat treating them there is a lot of normal looking growth sprouting and they're looking happy again and from what I've found online that although maybe not top yields, but still respectable crops are often achieved after an infestation is controlled/eliminated.

I think retro i a very astute dude when it comes to weed, he's not here to argue or put anyone down, he's just here offering us informed information so that we can look beyond the blinkers and broaden our minds. Once you stop being willing to broaden the mind you become a much less affective. If you doubt some methods that others claim to have good results with, especially when they're substantially different to your own take on things, rather than dismiss and discredit the well intentioned people who coming up with or promote ideas for the good of others, why don't you put it to the test on a couple of plants and provide the results. It doesn't show you in a good light when you behave in this way.

Trev

 

[Some old dude]

I can relate

I can relate

I honestly don't think there is any Way possible things like avid or forbid can remain in our mj plants if given enough time. Especially if applied in early veg. Our plants grow so big so fast how can any chemical remain??? Oh well, everyone has there beliefs and ways they want to beat these little bastards!!! That's why I love this thread. I'm taking a little of every method and making my own

If I finish off my current grow Bm free then I'll continue with what worked. Avid and forbid applied in veg with heat treatments every 2-3 weeks up until week 3 or 5 of flower.

Will keep this thread updated if this routine is successful this round

Basically was my thinking as well. I just can't get the poison thing out of my brain. I have been using judo on mothers and then waiting for like a month or so before even taking clones for flower. Puts a big kink in the whole thing. Avid though is supposed to be a very bad chem. I have read till my eye's are sore nothing good about Avid ..It's supposed to be a certified "Neurotoxin". At least if Bayer and the calif dept or AG are lying about Forbid not being a Neurotoxin and non carcinogenic thats one thing but Avid is certified . But I freaked out about the article the other day that pointed out the fifteen different pesticides that are on apples.

 

[Some old dude]

From my reading and use

From my reading and use

Well said mate. Will check Judo out as a treatment for new clones coming in if its good, does it kill eggs do you know?

Storm Shadow = you say if you notice BM damage you may as well toss em and start again. If that is the case. how do you account for Truecannabliss winning the cannabis cup with bud that came from a once BM infested plant?

My little ones were riddled, pics on page 78, and may not make it, but since heat treating them there is a lot of normal looking growth sprouting and they're looking happy again and from what I've found online that although maybe not top yields, but still respectable crops are often achieved after an infestation is controlled/eliminated.

I think retro i a very astute dude when it comes to weed, he's not here to argue or put anyone down, he's just here offering us informed information so that we can look beyond the blinkers and broaden our minds. Once you stop being willing to broaden the mind you become a much less affective. If you doubt some methods that others claim to have good results with, especially when they're substantially different to your own take on things, rather than dismiss and discredit the well intentioned people who coming up with or promote ideas for the good of others, why don't you put it to the test on a couple of plants and provide the results. It doesn't show you in a good light when you behave in this way.

Trev

From what I understand from my own results and reading it actually works better on the young larvae and the eggs than the adults but thats why it works so well it breaks the breeding chain.It's a trans laminar meaning you dont have to totally soak the entire plant just spray the tops of leaves and it soaks through, but it is not a systemic either. Be aware of the protection you should always read about the protection to have when you spray.

 

[Some old dude]

Big Irony

Big Irony

Every year I do a total organic small personal outside grow. Two or three, three foot plants in my yard. (Foxfarm Guano tea ect) have never had a BM problem with these grows.I put out the small plants around late august or early September Maybe something to do with the fact that in August and September here it can go a week or more at 120 degrees or higher for extended periods..? hhhmmm interesting.

 

[Storm Shadow]

Sulfur Taste no thanks .

You spray in veg ...no one said use it during flowering... It works pretty solid...

I said some strains will not be phased by the BM toxin and will bounce back fine....just wait and see ...some of your plants will dud...they will look healthy as fuck....and you'll notice later in flowering they're a shell of them former selves...ive grown quite a bit a ladies since I first had this problem...and it hasnt been a problem for years now