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Broad Mites?

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RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Hey retro. What size scope do you use exactly when looking at leafs that are still attached to the plant? There is no way I can get my 100x steady enough and focused to view a leaf that isn't sitting on a table.

The 30x scope I bought I'm not sure will do the job? Have nothing to scope right now but just not sure it has the power to see the eggs?

I'm a week away from getting my replacements and want to make sure I have all the tools I need in my arsenal!!!! Thanks ..... :thank you:

This has already been answered, but I don't look at leaves attached to plant. Cut leaves off, then examine using bright light. LED flashlight is good, or some magnifiers have them built in. I use 100X, although I think the cheap ones marked 100X might actually be closer to 60 X. You can find them on DealExtreme.com, or amazon for a few dollars. I can't see them with a 30X, so some of these guys either have much better eyesight than me, or their scopes marked 30X are really more. I know that these small scopes are often mislabled, and don't have the magnification labeled on them. That's why it's preferable to get a good USB or LCD scope, if you want to spend the money. Cut off & inspect leaves that appear damaged. They will usually have lots of eggs on the underside. Get in the habit of checking leaves every day or so, and particularly before & after treatment, so you can see results. The better the scope, the easier they are to monitor.
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
I run a sealed environment so no ducting.
I did get rid of root aphids which I also heard were impossible to get rid of.

I have some experience in really clean environments, I dont think anyone here is showering everytime they go into their room. let alone clean shoes clothes etc..

Havent heard a peep about composting media either.

Ill make a120 degree entryway/sauna if I have to.

Im sorry you are having such a hard time with them returning retro, but other people have gotten rid of them.

I will get rid of them.
 

LEDNewbie

Active member
Veteran
I run a sealed environment so no ducting.
I did get rid of root aphids which I also heard were impossible to get rid of.

I have some experience in really clean environments, I dont think anyone here is showering everytime they go into their room. let alone clean shoes clothes etc..

Havent heard a peep about composting media either.

Ill make a120 degree entryway/sauna if I have to.

Im sorry you are having such a hard time with them returning retro, but other people have gotten rid of them.

I will get rid of them.
Keep us posted on how things go. What your treatments that your using and etc...

I'm converting over to a sealed room, plus will be wearing clean clothes everytime I enter room. Ive also gone and purchased a sanitation mat for the entry way where I will leave my outside shoes and I will then put on a a clean set of new shoes dedicated strictly for the grow room. I've also gone And purchased a bug zapper for the entry way wich is my old lung room that way if any flying insects follow me in they should get drawn to the zapper as my lung room is always dark! I don't think there is much more I can do?!?
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I run a sealed environment so no ducting.
I did get rid of root aphids which I also heard were impossible to get rid of.

I have some experience in really clean environments, I dont think anyone here is showering everytime they go into their room. let alone clean shoes clothes etc..

Havent heard a peep about composting media either.

Ill make a120 degree entryway/sauna if I have to.

Im sorry you are having such a hard time with them returning retro, but other people have gotten rid of them.

I will get rid of them.

No comparison between RAs and broad mites. Broads are infinitely more difficult to PERMANENTLY get rid of. You can get rid of them, but most likely they will come back. They are microscopic, and can be anywhere in your environment, and can survive for months with no food source. I had RAs too, and got rid of them permanently with a single treatment. Never saw another one. But I'm not trying to discourage you. Do your thing and best of luck. You can (and should) repeat treatment. As long as you scope regularly, you can stay on top of it. Once you're dialed in, re-treating is simple. It only takes a single mite or egg surviving whatever treatment you use to start a new outbreak. Sounds like you have a good handle on it, and as long as you stay on top of it, you will be good to go. Just remain vigilant, is all I'm saying.
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
Keep us posted on how things go. What your treatments that your using and etc...

I'm converting over to a sealed room, plus will be wearing clean clothes everytime I enter room. Ive also gone and purchased a sanitation mat for the entry way where I will leave my outside shoes and I will then put on a a clean set of new shoes dedicated strictly for the grow room. I've also gone And purchased a bug zapper for the entry way wich is my old lung room that way if any flying insects follow me in they should get drawn to the zapper as my lung room is always dark! I don't think there is much more I can do?!?
Just be conscious, I have seen you grow, you have a clean environment. Maybe put some beneficial predators around your house?

I would buy a couple painters suits, or cheap sweat suits and dedicate them to the grow. If you want to get hardcore take a shower before, wear gloves and painters spray socks to keep hair and everything out. A vector classic is a good bug light. An ante room with positive pressure. which sound like your lung room, basically a room between the grow and the outside. I had a small tub full of bleach water and some rubber boots when I was doing sterile work. Thats a whole nother ball game though. I prefer to have a healthy poplutaion of bacterias around.

Do you have conserve sc or essential oils? I am gonna add them to my arsenal. What kind of preventative program are your putting together for your garden? Im looking at bi weekly foliar treatments.
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
No comparison between RAs and broad mites. Broads are infinitely more difficult to PERMANENTLY get rid of. You can get rid of them, but most likely they will come back. They are microscopic, and can be anywhere in your environment, and can survive for months with no food source. I had RAs too, and got rid of them permanently with a single treatment. Never saw another one. But I'm not trying to discourage you. Do your thing and best of luck. You can (and should) repeat treatment. As long as you scope regularly, you can stay on top of it. Once you're dialed in, re-treating is simple. It only takes a single mite or egg surviving whatever treatment you use to start a new outbreak. Sounds like you have a good handle on it, and as long as you stay on top of it, you will be good to go. Just remain vigilant, is all I'm saying.

Thanks bud, I appreciate the kind words.
I have always been the person who focused until I accomplished the seemingly impossible.
 

LEDNewbie

Active member
Veteran
Just be conscious, I have seen you grow, you have a clean environment. Maybe put some beneficial predators around your house?

I would buy a couple painters suits, or cheap sweat suits and dedicate them to the grow. If you want to get hardcore take a shower before, wear gloves and painters spray socks to keep hair and everything out. A vector classic is a good bug light. An ante room with positive pressure. which sound like your lung room, basically a room between the grow and the outside. I had a small tub full of bleach water and some rubber boots when I was doing sterile work. Thats a whole nother ball game though. I prefer to have a healthy poplutaion of bacterias around.

Do you have conserve sc or essential oils? I am gonna add them to my arsenal. What kind of preventative program are your putting together for your garden? Im looking at bi weekly foliar treatments.

Hey bud. I've spent a small fortune on building up my arsenal to defeat and hopefully prevent these fuckers!! I just need to decide what I'm going to use now and how I'm going to use it?!?

Here is a list of what I have:
-Avid
-Forbid
-Pylon Bombs
-Spectracide Triazicide
-Ortho Malathion
-Monterey Insect Spray
-Triple Action Neem oil
-Aptus "Dislike" essential oils. Very expensive. Dutch Touch on this forum swears by it and say it will prevent mites from even thinking about coming near your plants.
-Og Biowar root and foliar packs

I also have merit 75wp, eagle 20 and some pyrethrum bombs and hot shot no pest strips!!! Hahahaha!!!:biggrin:

Not 100% sure exactly what I'm going to use but thinking something along the lines of this.

When I first get clones I will dunk them in forbid that way if they have anything hopefully that gets rid of them. Once a week I will feed plants and foliar spray them with the og biowar tea. Also once a week I will spray plants with the Aptus Dislike. Every 2 weeks I plan on heat treating my veg room, and I'm thinking the flower room will get a heat treatment every 2 weeks till week 4 of flower. I may hit plants with either avid or forbid right before flipping to flower? Also at the end of every cycle I plan on releasing a pylon bomb. I know it sounds over kill but I can't lose another crop!!!

Just a thought on those paint suites. Reason I don't like them in my mind is if you are wearing "dirty" clothes and put on the paint suite whatever bugs or bacteria that are on your clothes are now on the inside of the painters suite. Once you take the suite off whatever is inside can now make its way out! Unless you were to use a new suite every time I really don't see the painters suite being of much help keeping bugs away. Ultimately you need to put clean clothes on everytime!!!
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Hey bud. I've spent a small fortune on building up my arsenal to defeat and hopefully prevent these fuckers!! I just need to decide what I'm going to use now and how I'm going to use it?!?

Here is a list of what I have:
-Avid
-Forbid
-Pylon Bombs
-Spectracide Triazicide
-Ortho Malathion
-Monterey Insect Spray
-Triple Action Neem oil
-Aptus "Dislike" essential oils. Very expensive. Dutch Touch on this forum swears by it and say it will prevent mites from even thinking about coming near your plants.
-Og Biowar root and foliar packs

I also have merit 75wp, eagle 20 and some pyrethrum bombs and hot shot no pest strips!!! Hahahaha!!!:biggrin:

Not 100% sure exactly what I'm going to use but thinking something along the lines of this.

When I first get clones I will dunk them in forbid that way if they have anything hopefully that gets rid of them. Once a week I will feed plants and foliar spray them with the og biowar tea. Also once a week I will spray plants with the Aptus Dislike. Every 2 weeks I plan on heat treating my veg room, and I'm thinking the flower room will get a heat treatment every 2 weeks till week 4 of flower. I may hit plants with either avid or forbid right before flipping to flower? Also at the end of every cycle I plan on releasing a pylon bomb. I know it sounds over kill but I can't lose another crop!!!

Just a thought on those paint suites. Reason I don't like them in my mind is if you are wearing "dirty" clothes and put on the paint suite whatever bugs or bacteria that are on your clothes are now on the inside of the painters suite. Once you take the suite off whatever is inside can now make its way out! Unless you were to use a new suite every time I really don't see the painters suite being of much help keeping bugs away. Ultimately you need to put clean clothes on everytime!!!

If you use heat, you won't need the other stuff. Try heat first, and check with scope. All you will see are dead bodies. Plus it kills mites in the room, not just on the plants. I wouldn't spray all those poisons on my plants unless there was no other option. Once your heat treatment is dialed in, all you have to do is turn the heat on every week or 10 days for an hour, and you will be good to go. Forbid lingers in plants for a long time. I would not want that on anything I smoke, unless there was no alternative. As long as you scope daily, or regularly, you can keep the problem under control without poison.
 

Mr Roboto

Member
I have some tahoes,chem4 and diesels that all have lost their smell along with trich production on the tahoes. Does bm cause these symptoms?
 

Grow Tech

I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back
Veteran
Are you in San Diego by chance? Check out the SDF#3 thread regarding the Dud phenomenon. Theres nothing conclusive but it's been a topic of discussion fairly recently with a possible connection to Broad Mites
 

Mr Roboto

Member
Are you in San Diego by chance? Check out the SDF#3 thread regarding the Dud phenomenon. Theres nothing conclusive but it's been a topic of discussion fairly recently with a possible connection to Broad Mites
Im in the la area but somewhat close to sd. thanks Grow tech i'll check it out
 

Mr Roboto

Member
we have picked up clones in the past from PO but soon ditched everything we got because of a bm infestation. Hmm they must be hanging around to infest other cuts ......damn
 

LEDNewbie

Active member
Veteran
Yes broad mites will kill the smell of your plants as well as trichs!!! You will also get stunted growth and then eventually death!!
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
I have some tahoes,chem4 and diesels that all have lost their smell along with trich production on the tahoes. Does bm cause these symptoms?


sometime ago i put my grow into 12/12.
2-3 wks in bloom the BMs hit me,
and at the time still not knowing what they were but had been battling this *mystery disease* for over year.
within a week-->10 days from the onset of symptoms i knew what was coming from prior experience so they went outdoors, I spray them down really good with spinosad, and other things just to see what it did. somehow they went dormant or i killed them from ether the rubbing alcohol, spinosad and the cool temps.

but the buds never recovered, they were stunted, very little smell to them and some never recovered and were *living duds* after that.

bottom line imo is, especially in early bloom during budset,
time is very important from the time you see symptoms.
depending on the size of infestation, a week are your crop is toast. i think later in bloom4-5wks and the plantsl stand a better chance time wise.
 

Mr Roboto

Member
sometime ago i put my grow into 12/12.
2-3 wks in bloom the BMs hit me,
and at the time still not knowing what they were but had been battling this *mystery disease* for over year.
within a week-->10 days from the onset of symptoms i knew what was coming from prior experience so they went outdoors, I spray them down really good with spinosad, and other things just to see what it did. somehow they went dormant or i killed them from ether the rubbing alcohol, spinosad and the cool temps.

but the buds never recovered, they were stunted, very little smell to them and some never recovered and were *living duds* after that.

bottom line imo is, especially in early bloom during budset,
time is very important from the time you see symptoms.
depending on the size of infestation, a week are your crop is toast. i think later in bloom4-5wks and the plantsl stand a better chance time wise.
My buds are nice and really dense but the the trich and odor production is completely absent especially the odor. The tahoe was grown before and really snice smoke but this round it seems like their duds like you say.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I have some tahoes,chem4 and diesels that all have lost their smell along with trich production on the tahoes. Does bm cause these symptoms?

The terpenes will be the first thing to go, along with the smell they represent. I have harvested with decent trichs but no smell. That was after treating only with aspirin,before knowing the problem was broad mites.
 

Mr Roboto

Member
The terpenes will be the first thing to go, along with the smell they represent. I have harvested with decent trichs but no smell. That was after treating only with aspirin,before knowing the problem was broad mites.
I figuer this whole round for me is toast already....how did (or did you ever) get rid of this problem for the next round?
 
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