Broad Mites?

[ojd]

coming back with an update on my heat treatment

i did have to hit it with a 2nd heat treatment 4 weeks after i did the first
the 2nd treatment was in 4 weeks of flower with no ill effects
ad im flushing up now and can say retro grow is the man
listen up peeps the guy has solved my broadmite problem
im not saying it gone for ever but first harvest in over a year where it looks amazing and smells good and taste good(early sample)
i also only used predators once when i normaly order them like 4 times costng me alot of dollar well £800 to be exact
i will use the heat treatment again if i ever see signs of broadmite and im preaching this stuff to all my buddys

again retro thanks buddy

peace

 

[roll it large]

this heat treatment technique is quite interesting if my spidermite problem comes back i will give this a go as ive been battling them for nearly a year

i will report back here if they come back and i will give the heat treatment a try and post results


peace

 

[moodster]

i said pages ago that the heat treatment works looks like every1 has got round to giving it a go thanks again retrogrow

 

[DrFever]

this heat treatment technique is quite interesting if my spidermite problem comes back i will give this a go as ive been battling them for nearly a year

i will report back here if they come back and i will give the heat treatment a try and post results


peace

hey roll i found best way to get rid of spidermites was to actually make a 50 gallon drum of either neem oil or bug b gone and tip plant upside down into it right up to soil leaving it there for few mins etc moving it up and down
wash all room down lights walls floors with bleach and they were gone 2 treatments with this and your problems are gone even as to go to spray under sides and sides of pots with a spray bottle with bug b gone or neem 2 treatments 4 days apart and you will never see them again

 

[sanvanalona]

O.k., so first I want to thank retrogrow BIGTIME!!!!!

I am now into full flower and it looks like everything is doing fine, albeit my flower time seems to be off by about two weeks but that makes sense considering my heat treatment was ten days ago. I will post pics up later tonight, and although I am positive that they are still alive I have seen no signs in my veg room which is next to my flower and the flowers are starting to take off. I have never experienced anything as bad as broad mites, it has made me question everything about my growing. So very thankful for helpful forums and helpful people like Retro, stoked that this diesel may come to fruition!

 

[roll it large]

hey roll i found best way to get rid of spidermites was to actually make a 50 gallon drum of either neem oil or bug b gone and tip plant upside down into it right up to soil leaving it there for few mins etc moving it up and down
wash all room down lights walls floors with bleach and they were gone 2 treatments with this and your problems are gone even as to go to spray under sides and sides of pots with a spray bottle with bug b gone or neem 2 treatments 4 days apart and you will never see them again

been there done that with every product I could get my hands on

I'm open to the elements growing in the loft but after nearly 12 month I can say there not about for now but I'm sure I will be seeing em again

but yeah dipping is the better method

peace

 

[DrFever]

i grew in a loft before was amazed at the actual amount of lady bugs that were in there it was awesome lol

 

[RetroGrow]

coming back with an update on my heat treatment

i did have to hit it with a 2nd heat treatment 4 weeks after i did the first
the 2nd treatment was in 4 weeks of flower with no ill effects
ad im flushing up now and can say retro grow is the man
listen up peeps the guy has solved my broadmite problem
im not saying it gone for ever but first harvest in over a year where it looks amazing and smells good and taste good(early sample)
i also only used predators once when i normaly order them like 4 times costng me alot of dollar well £800 to be exact
i will use the heat treatment again if i ever see signs of broadmite and im preaching this stuff to all my buddys

again retro thanks buddy

peace

Thanks for the kind words, bro. Glad it worked out for you. Not surprised they came back. Once these microscopic devils are in your house/environment, they will keep coming back into your grow space from other areas of the property, through the ventilation system., etc. Even if you kill 100% of mites & eggs on your plants, they will come back into the room from other areas, but the good news is: Once you have the heat treatment worked out and know how many heaters it takes to get to the desired temperature, it's easy enough to turn the heat on once a week for an hour, and just make that part of your routine. That will prevent them from ever getting a foothold.
If you're not doing perpetual, you can also use heat for longer times in your room between grows. That will give your seedlings a clean start, and then just do it every week or two in veg to keep them clean. You will need to constantly scope your plants to look for eggs/mites. As long as you stay on top of it, you will be good. I know it's a pain to scope a few leaves each day, but that's the only way to monitor these things, and it beat's the hell out of trying to deal with them once they have a foothold. Nice to be able to kill them without spraying poisons.
Good luck! Peace.
RG

 

[jammie]

for all you peeps that don't want to pay big bucks for pylon: Pylon miticide vs. Phantom termiticide
Pylon miticide and Phantom termiticide both contain the active ingredient, chlorfenapyr, and are both made by BASF. As best as I can tell from the labels and MSDS these two are exactly the same formulation just with different labels. This letter from the New York Dept. of Enviromental Conservation confirm this:
http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles...lorfenapyr.pdf
(page 2)
"The formulated end product was previously reviewed under the name Pylon Miticide-Insecticide ..."

Pylon sells for $465 for 16 oz.
Phantom sells for $60 for 21 oz.
Pylon Miticide Pint
Phantom Termiticide Insecticide
Share

 

[the gnome]

thanks for the info on that one jamie
I'd like to add pylon for my rotation bu its waaaay to xpensive!

btw
you can also get pylon bombs, 3 for $52

 

[LEDNewbie]

Yup, thanks to gnome I picked up 6 cans for $99. Going to bomb the shit out of everything once I heat treat and clean my rooms!!!!!

 

[LEDNewbie]

http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Press...iewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

This also looks like a great option!

 

[the gnome]

Yup, thanks to gnome I picked up 6 cans for $99. Going to bomb the shit out of everything once I heat treat and clean my rooms!!!!!

alright, nice price.
those 2oz cans will treat something like 3,000sqft,
or a 40'x125' w/10ft ceiling.
wish there was a way to turn off those things once you start em up.

you can do the whole house with one bomb which is what i would recommend to get the most bang for your buck on them

 

[sith44]

These guys are my worst fear

 

[ojd]

trust me

heat treatment done properly is the best thing for broad mites

i tried everything between me and a buddy
organic oil based sprays(does prety good at keeping them back but does not totaly eliminate them)
all the nasty stuff avid/forbid
also other nasty sprays
thousands of pounds worth of predators enough for full on farms with huge fields

but the only thing that has done it for me was the heat treatment

with oil based sprays and predators you can harvest etc but what a shitty harvest it will be

retrogrow for president
lol
na but serious try it one time and you will be a preacher like me
peace

 

[dung beetle]

just thinking outside the box here and my appologies if this has been mentioned before but has any of you guys thought about using uvc light to try to combat these broad mites?

bump im using a germicidal light to treat mildew and it seems to be working,would be interesting to know if itll work on mites

 

[Some old dude]

Judo , Forbid, Oberon

Judo , Forbid, Oberon

In case this has not been covered. I want to provide some information. Judo , Forbid, Oberon, are all the exact same miticide. The only difference is concentration. With "Oberon" being the least concentrated. My "people" who I get the Judo from told me to mix it down to a certain amout of drops per quart to replicate the concentration of "Oberon'. Oberon is applied up to ten days before harvest on "Corn crops" Strawberry crops" and many other human consumables. I personally only use it when I see the tell-tale damage. I used it only about two or three weeks prior to taking cuts for the flower room last time. I will prolly now use it every few months. And I do have a healthy respect for this stuff so all measures should be taken when spraying. Mask that prevents particles as small as paint fumes , I use a painters suit chemical gloves and boots, and don't enter the room for at least twelve hours. I used it one time one year ago and only now do I have to use it again. The reason people don't ever get rid of broad mites is really easy to understand . Go outside and look around your outside plants with a microscope.

 

[the gnome]

very interesting,
just read this from okihai

anyone have any broads on your plants?
give it a try and report back.
maybe apple cider would also work, or apple cider vinegar?
its worth looking into.


Buy a can of apple juice concentrate, mix it with 2 cans of water. Spray entire plant, especially undersides of leaves. Let it drip for about 20 minutes and then rinse with water. It works!! I thought it was BS but figured what do I have to loose. It does work. One application, no more mites. It can be a little sticky if you dont do the rinse. I read it on some organic gardening forum, they claim some acid in the apple juice concentrate dissolves the mites and eggs. I assure you it works.

oKiHai

 

[GreenGuySF]

Thanks everyone for the great info. Just finished the thread. I am in day 25 flowering. I found these fuckers this morning and got the diagnosis from some of the other posters here after seeing burned pistils, I looked around them with a 100X scope and saw hella broad mites stumbling around, mostly juvies. Started reading up here and after page 35 took an hour break and sprayed some Avid.. wish I got to all the details about heat treatment in the page 40s 1st before going with poison, but after seeing 75% of the pistils have been shriveled by these fuckers I kinda freaked out.

One thing though: when I used the Avid, I just mixed it with coco-wet and tap water ... will this be a problem since I did not pH it at all ?? I was not aware of pH requirement... I never had to use more than azamax before this shit happened. I did leave lights on though & they were on another half hour after too.

After all the other info I still got a few questions so I am hoping you guys can clear things up for me and let me know if I got everything straight as far as what actions I should be taking next.

1. I heard both add Aspirin 325mg / gal and 30ml/gal pro silicate to the feed water immediately to boost immunity & embitter the plant material to the broad mites. Would pro silicate be enough or is aspirin more supplemental?

2. I will try the 1hr/ 120 deg heat treatment if possible, to kill the eggs left intact by Avid, but, has anyone done the heat treatment successfully on a scrog type setup with dense foliage? I saw a few posts that it didn't work for a couple people and that someone measured into the canopy and temps were lower. I am not sure I can get the heat that high anyways cause the ceilings are like 10' in my place so I am thinking I may need to take other avenues but will definitely try it cause this would be the perfect fix... however it is a pretty big space so I wanna plan for the worst

3. Since I'm already almost in week 4 flowering I want to avoid any other strong chems like the avid, assuming I can't get it up to 120 or it doesn't fully penetrate the canopy, what is the best plan B to be on top of the leftover eggs? I suppose the translaminar residual effect of Avid can still get them upon feeding, but if I find new ones later what when scoping what I should I use, triple action neem?

3. Beneficial predators - this idea seems great, would it be worth it for a 25x12 space? Anyone know a good source for the Koppert Swirski-mite in the states? The slow release bags where they crawled out over time looked cool.

4. A poster mentioned some strains of entomogenous fungi, Beauveria bassiana, Metarhizium anisopliae, and Paecilomyces fumosoroseus, that can effectively manage broad mite infestations. Anyone know a good source to order this stuff? I was planning to brew some tea soon anyway, would be great to add these in

THANkS!!!!!! Despite the horrible infestation I am so happy that I at least found this thread

 

[Grow Tech]

To answer #3
Since your in flower now i would have suggested going with predators & NOT Avid. I saved an infested crop that was 3 wks into flower w/predators alone. That being said & whats done is done...i'd wait to release predators for at least 2 - 3 weeks. Avid is translaminar meaning it enters the plant tissue and has a residual killing effect. If you release predators now they'll likely be killed by the Avid residual. Are you in Cali by chance?