Broad Mites?

[Gifted0ne]

Such as? Please name them.

The ones on this plant, which was infected twice and is now in great health flowering thanks to only mighty wash. For the sake of argument I will not name which species it is.

I am making my own wash now and it will work as good or better, 2 contact killers, 2 repellants, 1 plant strengthener, and couple other things.

 

[CannaBandit]

I have been dealing with broad mites since 2009, and have tried everything in this thread. Retro's heat treatments and aspirin are legit, but so are Storm Shadow's chem treatments in veg. You need to do both and be on it. The Biowar doses nothing to help indoors, and will make a mess inside split unit AC's and on equipment. Im also using Retro's heat heat treatments on new seeds before starting them. I've flowered all the BM plants and cleaned up and started over because I don't believe the war can be won. That is once it has BM it always will. You can only mitigate damage, not clear a genetic of BM.

 

[Some old dude]

OGB

OGB

I have been dealing with broad mites since 2009, and have tried everything in this thread. Retro's heat treatments and aspirin are legit, but so are Storm Shadow's chem treatments in veg. You need to do both and be on it. The Biowar doses nothing to help indoors, and will make a mess inside split unit AC's and on equipment. Im also using Retro's heat heat treatments on new seeds and I've flowered all the BM plants and cleaned up and started over. I don't believe the war can be won. That is once it has BM it always will. You can only mitigate, not save a genetic.

OGB Does work .And does not create a mess (When used properly) I'm sorry your experience was less than stellar. Did you see my post that has plant shots that have totally recovered from BM damage...? Those same plants today just days later the buds are about twice a thick (I will post more pics soon).And this will be the very last post about the effectiveness of OGB I have found what works for me as many others have. Heat for instant kill and sterilization of plants and grow area and OGB to kill mites and eggs and prevent ongoing bug problems.I have no dog in this race. I have no problem with people using poisons as long as they inform people that is what they are using. As I inform people that my medicine is medical grade safe and clean from carcinogenic and neuro toxic pesticides. Both plans work it's just up to the grower if it's ethical to not disclose the pesticides used. In any case I don't argue about these things it's useless.The people can decide.Maybe it's just a "Thing" with this thread but it's annoying to have people come and post that something does not work when in fact it is working for many others like myself. Would it not be better to say "OGB did not work for me and I found it to be messy or difficult to work with"...? That way people could decide for themselves...? It's tiring defending something against a "KNOWN "That is toxic poisonous pesticide use. One of the fungus's in OGB is "KNOWN" to kill broad mites and many other bugs that like cannabis...IT"S "KNOWN" ...!!! It's "KNOWN" that avid ,forbid and all the others are carcinogens and toxic poisons for human ingestion especially for a "Smoke-able" that does not get the toxins washed off by nature or watering.

 

[CannaBandit]

OGB Does work .And does not create a mess (When used properly) I'm sorry your experience was less than stellar. Did you see my post that has plant shots that have totally recovered from BM damage...? Those same plants today just days later the buds are about twice a thick (I will post more pics soon).And this will be the very last post about the effectiveness of OGB I have found what works for me as many others have. Heat for instant kill and sterilization of plants and grow area and OGB to kill mites and eggs and prevent ongoing bug problems.I have no dog in this race. I have no problem with people using poisons as long as they inform people that is what they are using. As I inform people that my medicine is medical grade safe and clean from carcinogenic and neuro toxic pesticides. Both plans work it's just up to the grower if it's ethical to not disclose the pesticides used. In any case I don't argue about these things it's useless.The people can decide.

I sprayed biowar with an atomizer as a brewed tea (big mess) and later mixed it straight and it still builds up moldy dust on equipment when applied indoors. I still use the root pack and nute packs, so I like there products, but i saw no effect on BMs with the foliar applications. I would attribute your success to heat treatments. Also I don't believe BMs can be totally beat. If you had it, you still do. I wouldn't start selling clones of those.

 

[CannaBandit]

Mighty wash didn't work for me at all, from what i could see. This is my best recipe for mitigation not extermination based on my testing.

Veg.
Aspirin 1000mg per gal
Heat Treatments
Avid 1ml per gal with indicate5 foliar (applied with lights on)
Forbid 1ml per gal with indicate5 foliar
Pylon aerosol fogger
Kontos drench 1ml per gal

Dunk with nuke em when flipping

Early bloom
Aspirin 1000mg per gal
Heat Treatments

Late bloom to finish
Aspirin 1000mg per gallon
Swirski mites (250 count sachet per plant)

 

[Some old dude]

One of many "Knowns"

One of many "Knowns"

There are dozens of these reports.(http://fspublishers.org/ijab/past-issues/IJABVOL_6_NO_2/1.pdf).... I understand it does not work for everyone. My system is ..

Heat, for initial kill and follow up treatments.
OGB, for long term kill and protection.

Aspirin, IF you have signs of "dudizm" No more that 325 per gal...(I use half that with great results.) I have made hermies for breeding purpose before with high rates of salicylic acid. Be careful.

This is just based on my observation your results may vary.

 

[Gifted0ne]

There are dozens of these reports.(ttp://fspublishers.org/ijab/past-issues/IJABVOL_6_NO_2/1.pdf).... I understand it does not work for everyone. My system is ..

Heat, for initial kill and follow up treatments.
OGB, for long term kill and protection.

This is just based on my observation your results may vary.

Did you spray the Foliar Pack with 60%+ humidity? I put like 14ish oz of water in a solo cup and about 1/8-1/4 tsp of the pack in the cup mixed it real well and directly spray it everywhere, it covers the whole plant in a little "mildew" looking fungi or talc.. never bothered anything but it didn't stop mites from coming back. You see anything im doin wrong? usually my humidity is 45-55%.

Have you ever used the heat on its own and witness it kill the mites? like visually seen it work?

 

[Gifted0ne]

I sprayed biowar with an atomizer as a brewed tea (big mess) and later mixed it straight and it still builds up moldy dust on equipment when applied indoors. I still use the root pack and nute packs, so I like there products, but i saw no effect on BMs with the foliar applications. I would attribute your success to heat treatments. Also I don't believe BMs can be totally beat. If you had it, you still do. I wouldn't start selling clones of those.

I still have moldy dust on my dwc lid its just stays there till its cleaned off, doesnt harm anything that i can see. prob just talc carrier stuff.

It's pretty dangerous to use a tea as a foliar, the foliar pack is best used on its own. The tea you brew with Ancient Forest or castings has nematodes which can infest a human body by skin, best to wear gloves with tea's and a good idea to not spray them all over the place.

Tea's are very good for roots, I always use it with insane success in dwc but I use caution with that stuff always.

 

[Some old dude]

OGB

OGB

Did you spray the Foliar Pack with 60%+ humidity? I put like 14ish oz of water in a solo cup and about 1/8-1/4 tsp of the pack in the cup mixed it real well and directly spray it everywhere, it covers the whole plant in a little "mildew" looking fungi or talc.. never bothered anything but it didn't stop mites from coming back. You see anything im doin wrong? usually my humidity is 45-55%.

Have you ever used the heat on its own and witness it kill the mites? like visually seen it work?

I use a mason jar that is half gallon size .I use bottled spring water. Tap water has chlorine that will kill the oGB fungus. I fill the jar about two inches from the top and add two rounded teaspoons of OGB to the jar and screw on the top. Then I don't shake but up-end the jar about ten times to mix the OGB. Then I let the jar sit for about ten min's to let the talk settle. I then add about one half to one teaspoon of Yucca extract to the one gallon pump sprayer and slowly pour the OGB mixture out of the jar into the sprayer until about 90% is in the sprayer leaving the talk powder residue in the jar. Now that I have been using the "Yucca extract" it does something that makes the plants show no "talc residue" at all..and I can't explain this I only know what has happened. As far as empirical evidence of mite death I only know what my plants look like .And I see no evidence of mite eggs or mites with my 500X digital microscope.When I post the next pictures of the plants that the mothers had BM damage from people can judge for themselves.I would add ,I don't wait for BM symptoms. I am very pro-active now that I know my enemy. I have a regular routine of heat, and OGB and Aspirin.And it would appear conclusive that the Forbid is in the rear view mirror for good as it has been way over a year now without using it.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Initially 4 plants next to each other were dying from microscopic mites and I called SubLBC from youtube where i got the clones and he explained that they were "broad mites" and that he was dealing with it too.. A few mites i could see crawling what ever they were, the 4 were all shot with soaps, ogbio, heat treat and some sulfur products, only one was shot with mighty wash and 5 days later the plant in the middle came back to full health surrounded by dying plants. The rest died, the good plant went strong for 3.5 wks while this time was only using ogbiowar/heat and the plant became infested again growth haulted leaves curl, sprayed it 2 times mighty wash came back to full health again within 5 days. Say all the bs you want you see the infestation on my pic, stop acting stupid.

 

[lexalotacus]

Just got a new scope and took some images for y'all to look at. Whatever is on the leaves definitely aren't moving around on there since I sprayed with NukeEm and deloused them with diatomaceous earth. These plants are my experiment plants in quarantine in the kitchen until I can solve this puzzle.. Thoughts?

 

[Gifted0ne]

I use a mason jar that is half gallon size .I use bottled spring water. Tap water has chlorine that will kill the oGB fungus. I fill the jar about two inches from the top and add two rounded teaspoons of OGB to the jar and screw on the top. Then I don't shake but up-end the jar about ten times to mix the OGB. Then I let the jar sit for about ten min's to let the talk settle. I then add about one half to one teaspoon of Yucca extract to the one gallon pump sprayer and slowly pour the OGB mixture out of the jar into the sprayer until about 90% is in the sprayer leaving the talk powder residue in the jar. Now that I have been using the "Yucca extract" it does something that makes the plants show no "talc residue" at all..and I can't explain this I only know what has happened. As far as empirical evidence of mite death I only know what my plants look like .And I see no evidence of mite eggs or mites with my 500X digital microscope.When I post the next pictures of the plants that the mothers had BM damage from people can judge for themselves.I would add ,I don't wait for BM symptoms. I am very pro-active now that I know my enemy. I have a regular routine of heat, and OGB and Aspirin.And it would appear conclusive that the Forbid is in the rear view mirror for good as it has been way over a year now without using it.

If i have yucca extract oil can i use that or are you using soluble yucca extract powder? Seems like its pretty helpful as it feeds fungi so i read. Does your's make the water slimy too?

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://e-gro.org/pdf/E_GRO_2_17.pdf

 

[lexalotacus]

okey dokey

 

[Some old dude]

Yucca extract

Yucca extract

If i have yucca extract oil can i use that or are you using soluble yucca extract powder? Seems like its pretty helpful as it feeds fungi so i read. Does your's make the water slimy too?

I'm not exactly sure what Yucca I have as it was sent to me by a Oregon company as a "free-be" for trials that supplies the growers up there. It's a small bottle of dark slightly heavy (like oil) liquid with some numbers on the bottle and the words "Yucca extract".

 

[Gifted0ne]

Storm Shadow: [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]http://e-gro.org/pdf/E_GRO_2_17.pdf[/FONT]

Wow i would of never guessed RETRO is way smarter then Purdue University "these almost microscopic creatures are in the tarsonemid, or thread-footed, mite group along with the similar cyclamen mite."

Dont let him see that he'll have a heart attack and call everyone at Purdue a dumbass.

 

[oceangrownkush]

Gonna try some Kontos + SM90 in a few days, thoughts on that one gents? I got RA and possibly mites so I'm treating all my mums hard.

 

[DEATH BY SNUSNU]

hey everyone, I have been dealing with sick plants for over a year now, and finally decided to scrap all my genetics, redo entire grow area, disinfect,etc.

I thought i was dealing with a virus and the micro version of root aphids. I would see them on the small new little roots at the base of the plant if i looked with a usb scope, but couldnt see them with the naked eye.

After reading this thread I am starting to think that I have some type of mite also. Unfortunately i have no plants left to check if they are on the leaves or buds, and i didnt think to check for microscopic bugs on the plant.

I do remember a few plants would have buds with small clusters that had died and dried out before the plant was picked. Also I tried every treatment for root aphids but could not kill them.

Here is a video of one i was able to capture on video, this was on the crown of the plant.
Does this look like the mite you guys are seeing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q89n5WHpum4

I think we have the same critter, fast and mean. I neemed em and they just laugh @ me, on with their day. Content with root life the leaves not so much.

 

[DEATH BY SNUSNU]

og, I had problems with the same bugs you are showing in your video. Mine always hung around in the root zone and on the outside/rim of the container. At one point during the summer I thought I might have seen a few migrating up the plant. However, at that time I had the tiny/micro white/translucent variety you are dealing with, and a larger reddish variety.

The last time I tried I only saw the micro variety. Nonetheless the symptoms were the same: decent growth during veg/early flower,stalling by around week 3, not much visible damage to leaves, a random flower or two near the bottom seemed to have prematurely dried pistils. The buds would continue to progress very slowly and not swell much. I ended up chopping and cleaning and assembling an arsenal to battle Root Aphids.

I still have not resumed trying because I am unsure of what exactly I am battling here. Like I said mine seemed to hang around on the outside of the pots mostly, the only reason I could see them was because my pots are black and I could see the light colored fleck movement on them. I'm not sure exactly what I am going to do if I have these damn mites. The only thing I can do is treat for BM and Root Aphids.

Shitty thing is I dont trade clones, and am not remotely near Cali. So damn frustrating. Please continue to post what you determine, because I am about 90% sure I am battling the same organism as you. Folks in the RA thread have proclaimed them to be beneficial mites. I got news though, they did not benefit my garden.

Thank you for your time and knowledge,

BP

WTF are they???

 

[Some old dude]

Beneficial mites

Beneficial mites

WTF are they???

I'm no broad mite specialist (But should be by now)..hehe.. But that actually looks like a "Beneficial mite" as The ones I had called "Swirskii mites" purchased as Predator mites or other similar mites. The reason for this is the long front antenna (I don't think the bad mites have this long front antenna) is the way I could tell the difference when I first looked at them crawling on my plants. Now, Like I said I could be way wrong about this. GL.