Broad Mites?

[DEATH BY SNUSNU]

Thanks Dude, I did entertain that thought, they are definitely hunters and notsomuch the grazing type from what I see. What ever they are neem is a joke...so far. Laying down cayenne powder and cinnamon for the hell of it. I thought they were the neo mega Borgs but not...yet.

 

[nofriend]

I sprayed biowar with an atomizer as a brewed tea (big mess)...

I would not use an atomizer to spray the biowar. Spores and Bacteria are alive and delicate.

 

[johnnye]

hey!
seems like you will not write anything more in here, so I thought I can post some pictures of my problem aswell.

looks like yours, and I also checked with microscope, and discovered some of those white/clear balls, I think those are just very tiny trichomes, but they are all over the leaves, both sides. also on the fan leaves, never thought there were trichomes!

new growth seems to be tiny,( tiny thin leaves) veg is slow, but its also a indica (cronic in scrog)
it first showed up on one plant, with that half leaf mutation, thought it was genetic. then it spread.. another plant became brown spots on leafes, now all plants begin to show those light green leaf mutations.
hope its not tomato mosaic virus, or tmv which would be very bad..
lets take a look on it.

 

[RetroGrow]

Possible egg in the fourth picture, upper left quadrant. Can't be certain. Eggs are found only on bottoms of leaves. You will be lucky if it's TMV, which I doubt, because plants usually grow out of TMV with no damage to final product.

 

[johnnye]

hey, btw. originally I tried to post this in another thread... something went wrong, but,.. whatever
well, I did not find any living bugs on them... I will continue my search, hopefully I'll find some.. on which part of the plant should I look for them?

don't know exactly what to do, I could use some pyrethrine on them (spruzit), still got it here, but I am about to switch the next few days to 12/12, will Phytoseiulus persimilis do the job also on broad/cyclamen mites?

 

[NtropiK]

Did you spray the Foliar Pack with 60%+ humidity? I put like 14ish oz of water in a solo cup and about 1/8-1/4 tsp of the pack in the cup mixed it real well and directly spray it everywhere, it covers the whole plant in a little "mildew" looking fungi or talc.. never bothered anything but it didn't stop mites from coming back. You see anything im doin wrong? usually my humidity is 45-55%.

Have you ever used the heat on its own and witness it kill the mites? like visually seen it work?

OGB will NOT work at under 60% RH, and really needs around 85+% to be really effective. The various fungi involved required high humidity to germinate.

 

[Gifted0ne]

OGB will NOT work at under 60% RH, and really needs around 85+% to be really effective. The various fungi involved required high humidity to germinate.

Ahh had a feeling that was necessary. Deems it useless for most people outside of cloning.

Does it need to maintain high humidity after germination? Such as running an air stone through the ogwater for a few hours prior to spraying for germ.

 

[nofriend]

Beauveria bassiana

Beauveria bassiana

There are dozens of these reports.(http://fspublishers.org/ijab/past-issues/IJABVOL_6_NO_2/1.pdf).... .

I have got some botanigard which is a Beauveria bassiana based myco-insecticide. I will start spraying some of that and let you know how it goes.

 

[Some old dude]

Ya, OGB

Ya, OGB

I have got some botanigard which is a Beauveria bassiana based myco-insecticide. I will start spraying some of that and let you know how it goes.

Ya, Here's more proof OGB doesn't work...LOL

Lotta stank, lotta resin, no duds.

 

[nofriend]

Old dude,

I dont know what I'm doing wrong as far as the og biowar. My last heat treatment was on 11/6/13 and today things are looking pretty good. I have been spraying twice a week. I do believe the biowar is helping significantly but I am still seeing signs of BM. Maybe my initial population was not knocked down enough due to a poor heat treatment.

I really appreciated your post here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6082001&postcount=2689

Is there anything else you might be doing? Are you spraying at a specific time in the cycle? What is your humidity? I plan to get some yucca extract soon.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Ya, Here's more proof OGB doesn't work...LOL

Lotta stank, lotta resin, no duds.

Maybe quality control is bad and some packs arent working. I used a lot of it and about 5 times coating the hell out of the plant and it didnt work. Those plants you show were infested with broad mites? If you say the heat is working well how do you know if the ogbiowar is actually effectively killing mites?

According to the creator "Cap" he said the humidity needs to be above 60 just like that other guy on this thread, how do you know they are even germinating.

 

[Some old dude]

Keep at it

Keep at it

Old dude,

I dont know what I'm doing wrong as far as the og biowar. My last heat treatment was on 11/6/13 and today things are looking pretty good. I have been spraying twice a week. I do believe the biowar is helping significantly but I am still seeing signs of BM. Maybe my initial population was not knocked down enough due to a poor heat treatment.

I really appreciated your post here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6082001&postcount=2689

Is there anything else you might be doing? Are you spraying at a specific time in the cycle? What is your humidity? I plan to get some yucca extract soon.

Unlike serious poisons you just have to keep at it. When strong toxics are used you will get almost instant results. And some legs to those results but you will always have to go back to poisons and this is not good for anyone connected with your medicine. When you use heat and OGB it's a new way of growing. You need to pay attention to never ever bringing in clones from anywhere and keep your grow area clean. If you go to a grow that is known to have problems or if you have anyone over who has been anywhere that there are problems...you will have problems unless you swim in poisons constantly. I am not against people using Forbid for an initial dosing and then again a week later(And the reason people have photo toxic problems making there plants suffer is they use to much) as long as the dosed plants are in veg for at least three months before putting into flower. That being said I do not recommend using poisons and I found I don't have to anymore. It's more work than using serious poisons. Keep at it. Initially make sure you are growing from seed keep area and air intake clean I use air filters over air intake from Lowes that filter out microns like pollen ect. I don't worry about humidity although I do believe OGB works better at higher RH. My RH is always around 35 to 60. I spray now mothers once every two weeks sometimes every week about three hours before lights come on as a maintenance program. I use heat about once a month as a maint program. Initially I used OGB twice a week for three or four weeks and heat treated empty flower room and mother room for four hours at 125 degrees. Then Heated mother plants for one hour at 120 degrees. It's a program that works for me.

 

[Some old dude]

I don't know

I don't know

Maybe quality control is bad and some packs arent working. I used a lot of it and about 5 times coating the hell out of the plant and it didnt work. Those plants you show were infested with broad mites? If you say the heat is working well how do you know if the ogbiowar is actually effectively killing mites?

According to the creator "Cap" he said the humidity needs to be above 60 just like that other guy on this thread, how do you know they are even germinating.

I don't see the mites dying like you would with spider mites. All I know is what is working for me. Even when I used forbid in the past I would always have to go back to the Forbid sooner or later (six to nine months). Now I don't use Forbid and my plants are doing well for the first time in a long time. The Heat kills broad mites, the Beaueva B. in OGB is proven to kill broad mites as well as the other fungus that is beneficial to plants that are in OGB. Aspirin helps the plants activate the Sar response for disease protection. This method may not work for you.I keep prized mothers a very long time (Breeding ect) those are cloned plants from mothers that where infected. All the very best with your grow.

 

[RetroGrow]

OrganicOzarks posted this link about the amount of pesticides being found in Cannabis, and the dangers of inhaling them. Everyone posting in this thread should read it, especially those pushing poison:

http://www.times-standard.com/local...e-you-smoking-study-finds-pesticides-transfer

 

[Some old dude]

Great read

Great read

OrganicOzarks posted this link about the amount of pesticides being found in Cannabis, and the dangers of inhaling them. Everyone posting in this thread should read it, especially those pushing poison:

http://www.times-standard.com/local...e-you-smoking-study-finds-pesticides-transfer

Great read thanx. Anyone who has or knows people in the N.Cali industry knows why some are so animated about this subject. It's greed driven plain and simple.All that is needed is some simple standards.

 

[eric2028]

I was reading about anti-stress 2000 being helpful against bms. has anyone tried it?

 

[RetroGrow]

This video should be viewed by everyone in this thread:

http//humboldt-dspace.calstate.edu/bitstream/handle/2148/1628/HIIMR_Raber_video/html?sequence=5

 

[gettogro]

Here are a couple pics, I had some thrips but they are dead now from spinosad.. However I think my problem was bigger than that.
Do these plants look like a BM damage?
I got to about page 40 in the thread and a lot of the pic links are broken.
One room I have has had simalar symptoms of broad mites.
About 2 weeks after flowering I would see yellowing leaves, Close internodal spacing, stunted growth, early pistle browning, slow flower development. Twisting leaves, exc..

I have been searching with my scope and cant find anything yet, I just read to look where the leaf meets the stem, Ill try that next..

 

[gettogro]

A couple more

 

[RetroGrow]

Yes. You have all the broad mite symptons. You must confirm with a 100X scope at least. You look on the underside of affected leaves after cutting them off. You are looking for eggs. Google "broad mite eggs" to see what they look like. Eggs are much easier to spot than mites, which hide.
Since you almost certainly have them, it's unfortunate you caught them so late. They may be duds even if you are able to salvage them. Start immediately with aspirin to knock back the BM toxins. A heat treatment is about your only hope at this stage of growth. You must heat room to 120F @ the canopy. You do this by turning off A/C, fans, all ventilation. Leave lights on and see what temperature you get too. You will probably need new heat sources to get to 120. Either more lights, or space heaters that don't turn off automatically by thermostat, or you can disable the thermostat. Leave room at that temperature for an hour to and hour and a half. Make sure plants are well hydrated, and no fans blowing on them. This temperature will not hurt the plants. Monitor temps with multiple thermometers. This site sells heaters especially made for this process. Looks like they might be right for your size room. Not sure how much they cost, but whatever you do, you must act quickly.
http://www.pestheat.com/
You have to act quickly to kill mites before they spread more poison. 325MB aspirin (plain, not coated) per gallon of water/food will mitigate the effects of the poison, and you will see plants perk up overnight. After heat treatment, plants will perk right up, mites will be dead, then you can finish them and find out if they are duds, or if you caught them in time.