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Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
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FUCK BROAD MITES....these god damn little peices of shit are worse than spider mites...
i had some real sick looking plants but after doing Avid, Floramite, SNS209, and Spinosad, they are bouncing back real nice...
but some plants at my outdoor spot arent faring too good, this is potentially gonna cost me thousands of dollars...my partner up there is slacking on pesticide application and the plants are stunting growth pretty bad...i thought that if i threw them outside they would die quicker, spider mites usually get controlled pretty good by natural predators, but now im hearing that they thrive outdoors too? where did these fucking things come from! lots of friends have gotten them recently, its spreading like wildfire..
but yeah like everyone is saying....applications every 3 days, kill those little bastards...i want to meet the god who invented mites so i can kick him in the fucking face...
i had some real sick looking plants but after doing Avid, Floramite, SNS209, and Spinosad, they are bouncing back real nice...
but some plants at my outdoor spot arent faring too good, this is potentially gonna cost me thousands of dollars...my partner up there is slacking on pesticide application and the plants are stunting growth pretty bad...i thought that if i threw them outside they would die quicker, spider mites usually get controlled pretty good by natural predators, but now im hearing that they thrive outdoors too? where did these fucking things come from! lots of friends have gotten them recently, its spreading like wildfire..
but yeah like everyone is saying....applications every 3 days, kill those little bastards...i want to meet the god who invented mites so i can kick him in the fucking face...
i think your sugar coating it Yes4Prop
I actually started dealing with these not knoing what the prob was in nov 2010, Ive lost thousands because of these lil bastards.
but knowing what it is now and just blasting these things asap with avid or forbid at the 1st sign of the symptoms is crucial to minimize the damage.
one reason for them proliferating is they're so small they evade regular detection, even using a 30X loupe they are hard to spot unless you have prior exp. spotting them but a loupe will work.
I also have one of theose $14 60-100x zooom scopes with an led and tthats when your can really see them.
at only 150th of an inch long they are hard to spot, and its only when they are starting to really get their numbers up you can easily see them, by that time your also seeing the symptoms.
when you only have a few hundred you have to really spend time and search for them.
from now only I am doing a regular program of spraying everything down, especially when you flip the lites to 12/12.
and I mena spray everything, floors, corners, baseboards and up the walls 3 ft., entrance ways, containers and top soil
and any intake screens too.
being so small the can float on a breeze and be spread like that.
being proactive against these bastards is the only way to really controll or beat them.
whitefly's are vectors for the BMs, they hitch rides on them and proliferate in that way, I posted a pic of a white fly with 6-7 BMs hanging onto its legs.
read up on them, they can be easily killed by warm water above 105 degrees I think?? something like that
maybe 115F... have to check, if your plants are small enough to dunk you can do that and not hurt the plant.
I though of getting a heat gun and doing a quick blast, it will work but the secret is not to fry the vegetaion.
I'm not sure if NPS work 100% , and remmeber you have to consider the eggs. i don't think avid is an ovicide but forbid is. a very nontoxic ovacide to use is volck oil and it kills reg mites also
just try and make sure your protected before you go into 12/12, they are much harder to deal with if they have
budz to hide out in
last feb i had em again and thats when ghostnugz told me I was dealing with broadmites,
I killed everything
sprayed everything
bombed the room---> TWICE!
and they came back a few weeks ago.
they are here to stay
they mean business and the battle is on folks!
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slshemup
Member
prevention is better than cure with broadmites so if you have had them before or live in an area where they are known to be its best to spray with a reputable organic or chemical product that kills them in your grow area and plants in the early stages ie clone/seedling/young plants and a few fortnightly followup sprays through the plants lifespan.
slshemup
Member
heres some info on broadmites.
Overview
Species name
Polyphagotarsonemus latus.
Description
Adult
The adults are white-yellow, about 0.2 mm long, and the male is extremely active.
Immature stages
Eggs laid on the underside of leaves are oval, translucent and covered with five or six rows of white bumps (tubercles).
Life history
The life cycle through egg, two nymphal stages, to adult takes 6-9 days.
Host range
Broad mite is a serious pest of lemons, Hickson and Ellendale mandarins and occasionally grapefruit. There are a wide range of other food-crop hosts, including papaya, babaco, capsicum and cocoa.
Many ornamental and cut flower plants are susceptible, including African violet, azalea, pittosporum, impatiens, begonia, gerbera, chrysanthemum and gloxinia.
Importance
Broad mite is a major and frequent pest.
Damage
Broad mite attacks the growing point and the underside of young leaves causing hardening and distortion. Broad mite damage to the leaves can become claw-like with prominent veins. Grey or bronze scar tissue between the veins on the underside of the leaves distinguishes mite damage. Broad mite infestation can sometimes be confirmed with a 10x hand lens, although they have often disappeared before the damage is noticed. The characteristic egg can be seen near the veins beneath the leaf as a translucent, flat oval with a stippling of white dots. The mite itself is flat, but is less easily identified than its egg.
Broad mite can be a serious pest of flower crops and ornamental plants, causing flower and leaf distortion. The injuries caused are disproportionate to the mite population levels, making early detection essential. Look for adults and eggs within growing points, on the underside of young apical leaves and within flowers.
Biological
Broad mites are usually suppressed by natural enemies outdoors.
Chemical
Apply miticide sprays 10 to 14 days apart. Good coverage is essential.
Once broad mites are detected on ornamental crops, ongoing vigilance is required.
Overview
Species name
Polyphagotarsonemus latus.
Description
Adult
The adults are white-yellow, about 0.2 mm long, and the male is extremely active.
Immature stages
Eggs laid on the underside of leaves are oval, translucent and covered with five or six rows of white bumps (tubercles).
Life history
The life cycle through egg, two nymphal stages, to adult takes 6-9 days.
Host range
Broad mite is a serious pest of lemons, Hickson and Ellendale mandarins and occasionally grapefruit. There are a wide range of other food-crop hosts, including papaya, babaco, capsicum and cocoa.
Many ornamental and cut flower plants are susceptible, including African violet, azalea, pittosporum, impatiens, begonia, gerbera, chrysanthemum and gloxinia.
Importance
Broad mite is a major and frequent pest.
Damage
Broad mite attacks the growing point and the underside of young leaves causing hardening and distortion. Broad mite damage to the leaves can become claw-like with prominent veins. Grey or bronze scar tissue between the veins on the underside of the leaves distinguishes mite damage. Broad mite infestation can sometimes be confirmed with a 10x hand lens, although they have often disappeared before the damage is noticed. The characteristic egg can be seen near the veins beneath the leaf as a translucent, flat oval with a stippling of white dots. The mite itself is flat, but is less easily identified than its egg.
Broad mite can be a serious pest of flower crops and ornamental plants, causing flower and leaf distortion. The injuries caused are disproportionate to the mite population levels, making early detection essential. Look for adults and eggs within growing points, on the underside of young apical leaves and within flowers.
Biological
Broad mites are usually suppressed by natural enemies outdoors.
Chemical
Apply miticide sprays 10 to 14 days apart. Good coverage is essential.
Once broad mites are detected on ornamental crops, ongoing vigilance is required.
I
In Vino Veritas
Diatomaceous Earth!!! on the tops of your pots, on your buds, on the walls, EVERYWHERE!!
2 days before you crop, rinse off your buds. You wont taste it in the smoke but you sure as fuck will say im a bloody asshole for causing the worst cotton mouth of life.
Point is: DEAD BUGS.
2 days before you crop, rinse off your buds. You wont taste it in the smoke but you sure as fuck will say im a bloody asshole for causing the worst cotton mouth of life.
Point is: DEAD BUGS.
Please excuse me if I'm being ignorant? I lived in the south when I unfortunately learned about spider mites the hard way. This was many years ago and a good friend introduced me to avid which worked great and killed all the critters and their eggs.
Are these broad mites a different name or a different pest?
Are these broad mites a different name or a different pest?
I
In Vino Veritas
You're in the SOUTH, iE the Eastern South. We dont deal with this pest.
They are different..
D.Earth kills all.. it's like boric acid for anything with an exoskeleton.
Never had any issues but I tend to spray only when there's visible damage. This last round however I've noticed a random nitrogen def in early-mid flower with little burnt tips. At first it looked like RA damage with the random mag/ N deficiency symptoms. So I hit them with merit. Usually mite damaged leaves have that sorta calcium lockout/leaf stipling but with these nothing. Nothing changed really after the merit. I wasn't gonna spray them this late but the prob is def getting worst. Not bad enough to ruin my crop as everything still looks great but if I let my sours go 11 weeks like I usually do it might get out of hand. Looks like I'm only gonna let them go 9.5-10 and then chop and clean everything up. I'm not willing to hit them this late with the harsh chems but now I'm just gonna have to go back to a strict pest management protocol. My sours are basically getting more and more yellow. The lower leaves seem to be shriveling up and just dying on me so I keep picking them off. Everything in my veg room looks good though. I'm still not sure whether these fuckers are broad mites or cyclamen but I do know what I have will kill them.
If you guys are in your rooms marinating with that avid in the air for hours at a time id be careful. Get yourself and atomizer sprayer. Makes spraying simple and because the droplets come out as a mist it's easy to spray your plants late in flower becuase the spray doesn't completely saturate the plant just kinda mists it and it evaporates off the leaves faster too. No matter how big of rooms I'm spraying (6-50) lights it's never taken me longer than 30 minutes after mixing my solution. Smaller rooms take me 10 minutes to spray and it's electric so no need to be pumping or anything like that.i'll keep you guys posted on how things turn out but at this point I'm just gonna ride this thing out.
If you guys are in your rooms marinating with that avid in the air for hours at a time id be careful. Get yourself and atomizer sprayer. Makes spraying simple and because the droplets come out as a mist it's easy to spray your plants late in flower becuase the spray doesn't completely saturate the plant just kinda mists it and it evaporates off the leaves faster too. No matter how big of rooms I'm spraying (6-50) lights it's never taken me longer than 30 minutes after mixing my solution. Smaller rooms take me 10 minutes to spray and it's electric so no need to be pumping or anything like that.i'll keep you guys posted on how things turn out but at this point I'm just gonna ride this thing out.
Floramite is not going to do shit to them .... Avid is your friend....
Once these bastards are in check.... they are not too hard to keep away as long as new cuts arent coming in rotation... Once I destroyed all of mine... I backed off all the strong Chems and just keep up with Triple Action Neem Oil Every 10 days or so
Once these bastards are in check.... they are not too hard to keep away as long as new cuts arent coming in rotation... Once I destroyed all of mine... I backed off all the strong Chems and just keep up with Triple Action Neem Oil Every 10 days or so
@in vino veritas
I used to live in the south east. Now I'm in the north east. From what I understand here we have different critters and bugs. I'm just trying to learn so I can stay ahead of them. Most critters die or hibernate during the winter here but since summer is almost here I should learn what I'm up against up here so any knowledge is appreciated.
I used to live in the south east. Now I'm in the north east. From what I understand here we have different critters and bugs. I'm just trying to learn so I can stay ahead of them. Most critters die or hibernate during the winter here but since summer is almost here I should learn what I'm up against up here so any knowledge is appreciated.
FUCK, 5 weeks in flower, what to use? FUCK id seriously take a giant cucumber up my ass first before these. Only symptom is burnt pistils , the week they turned it was 90 degrees in my room. And two new open hoods. Only a few flowers are " burnt". I am taking my scope over there tomorrow.
Predator Mites are ur friend
Yesterday, upon inspection on my rapidly improving Veggers - I found 1 BM and one bug that might be one. On 8 rather large plants, that was all I found, but it was enough to warrant another spraying of AVID (the 2nd time). This was done this morning.
Now, I feel confident that I can flower these buggers in a Light Dep enviornment without having all the pistils get eaten and appearing burnt. What a nightmare that was... I was sure I oversprayed with AZATROL and burnt the hairs (protecting against Spider Mites), but it was the BM;s doing what they do. Ruining Buds.
Not sure if Predator mites will kill all of them, but you may make it through the cycle with only minimal degradation. It is awful how the BM's also eat the resin-glands, producing drier non-sticky buds....
Now, I feel confident that I can flower these buggers in a Light Dep enviornment without having all the pistils get eaten and appearing burnt. What a nightmare that was... I was sure I oversprayed with AZATROL and burnt the hairs (protecting against Spider Mites), but it was the BM;s doing what they do. Ruining Buds.
Not sure if Predator mites will kill all of them, but you may make it through the cycle with only minimal degradation. It is awful how the BM's also eat the resin-glands, producing drier non-sticky buds....
thats bad news
they hit me about a month into flower, actually they were there all along but started getting the population up when I hit 12/12.
as growtch said, predator mites.
my exp. withem in bloom is they screwed the buds up and even though I hit em with avid I put them outside and another crop into bloom, the ones outside, 30% never really recovered and i let em go for another 60days
they were ok but the buds were small and airy and these were chem d, caseyxchem cross so these should have been some monster colas
depending how bad they are you might better off cutting your losses and put in a new crop.
sorry to hear the bad news.
btw, hot water over 105 or 115f kills them and won't hurt the plant and you can hit it with volck oil @lowes and its an ovacide and won't harm the plant, something to think on, in fact its somewhere in this thread where the plants were small enough to dunk and it worked out fine
good luck
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