Broad Mites?

[Some old dude]

What I do

What I do

is 120 degree heat safe for the roots in hydro or will it cook them in the water? i run the general hydro water farm system.

What I do is flood and drain the entire time of heat adjust the cycle to flood and drain one after another. Make sure it's just your canopy that is at the top temperature is my advise. It's easy to have "Hot spots" be careful like Retrow said. I found it better to have multiple sites for the temperature probes I actually cut back on heat when it gets to around 118 119 at top of canopy and just below canopy top is around 115 -116. I have found in my case circulating air anywhere in the room is bad. And lifting soil pots of the floor is good but usually can't be accomplished with full hydro pots so I have to use extra 600 watt halogen lights placed around the floor area. GL.

 

[GET MO]

I overbrewed my og biowar (96 hours). whatchall think, spray or start over?

 

[knubs]

I overbrewed my og biowar (96 hours). whatchall think, spray or start over?

i haven't used ogbiowar yet, but i've been brewing microbe teas for my hydro system for a while in the same manner (ewc's in a sock, sugars, water, air, and different powdered microbe blends)

my suggestion to you would be to think back to when you started bubbling it and think about the smell. every blend i've made like this has had a specific smell. if you remember it then smell the brew now. does it smell the same or does it have a different sweeter smell? if it smells the same and you've had the air stone(s) bubbling this whole time then maybe add a quarter of the original dose of molasses and let it bubble for a few more hours before using it.

This is just my opinion based off of my prior experiences with brewing fungi and bacteria teas, but usually if it smells good it's fine.

 

[GET MO]

yo man, had a question bout the og biowar. I been brewing it for 5 days now (some shit came up had to run out of town) is it still good to spray or should I dump n start over?

 

[opt1c]

i would dump it; you've probably created a monoculture of one dominant bacteria or fungus

i've heard compost teas are their best at 18-24hours during the summer months and go downhill after that; during cooler months and areas 24hours is the min for brewing

 

[Danksmith]

Usually once a brew loses it's head it's a good indicator most of your herd is dead... Certainly still good within 48 but anything after that I'd steer clear from....

Not familiar with that product but I brew bio a lot and I know plants don't like older tea... Lol

Especially if it becomes anaerobic

 

[talktosamson]

Toss it bro, start over. Ogbiowar is alive and brewing all this time probably killed all the friends in there

 

[GET MO]

yep. Ima toss it.

 

[Capulator]

yep. Ima toss it.

You need to toss and start over. Try not to brew for more than 24 hours or so. Sorry I did not see this until now. I'm not on this site much.

-Cap

ps you can always email me @ email@ogbiowar if you have a question.

 

[EclipseFour20]

Let me say this politely and with respect--not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but Capulator, have you considered disclosing what is in your products?

Example, when I compare Dr Earth Metabolic Transformer against Piranah, Great White, and General Hydro Subculture B/M line...I can identify which one has what--and what the expected spore counts will be.

Can't do that with yours...how come? Hard to compare your against the others...know what I mean?

Help us out please. Thanks!

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Let me say this politely and with respect--not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but Capulator, have you considered disclosing what is in your products?

Example, when I compare Dr Earth Metabolic Transformer against Piranah, Great White, and General Hydro Subculture B/M line...I can identify which one has what--and what the expected spore counts will be.

Can't do that with yours...how come? Hard to compare your against the others...know what I mean?

Help us out please. Thanks!

The OGBIOWAR packaging has all of the spore counts, and also lists all of the ingredients. To my knowledge the only thing it does not list is the talcum carrier. However that should be obvious.

As far as brewing times, there is no set time. Obviously the best thing to do is look at each brew under a microscope to tell when you should stop the brew. I understand that most people on here do not do that. However I do, and I can tell you that there are a lot of factors that play into "how long".

The first being brewer design, and efficiency. Without a scope you are just guessing at this. The next would be the ingredients that you add to your brews. Next which most over look will be temperature. When brewing in the 60's it can take over 48 hours to get a "quality" tea. With a poorly designed brewer it may take longer.

24 hours is a best case scenario with the right temps, and a brewer that was over built. Most of you are not going to hit the 24 hour mark. That is just a fact.

The thing to keep in mind is that if you are brewing for the benefits of OGBIOWAR then if it doesn't smell rank then you should not waste it.

If you are brewing for microbial count then you will not ever really know unless you scope it. A frothy head, an earthy smell, measuring dissolved oxygen levels, etc, don't really mean shit. A scope is the only way to know.

I can brew a microbial dense compost tea with almost zero frothy head. I can brew a compost tea that has almost no microbial life that has a giant frothy head, and smells earthy as hell. The point being that without a scope you are just guessing.

Keep in mind that if it doesn't smell rank then it should not harm your plants. Also keep in mind just because it doesn't smell rank, has a frothy, and may smell a bit earthy doesn't mean it is a "quality" compost tea.

To be a "quality" tea you need to do a basic microbial count. I do not actually count every microbe. I can look at it, and in about 10 seconds know if it is "quality."

What I would suggest to people that keep fighting owning a scope is to build an airlift brewer. They work, they are easy to build, and they are cheap to build. You can get design ideas from microbemans website @ www.microbeorganics.com .

With this design it would be safe to brew for somewhere in the 36 hour range. The thing to keep in mind is that at 24 hours you may have a shit ton of bacteria, but you may have no protozoa. Without the protozoa to eat the bacteria you are not going to get the benefits of increased nutrient cycling.

To save the pain of all of the shit I just said you can just mix OGBIOWAR in some water, and spray it. It will work the same.

With the right brewer design, and the right inputs it is possible to brew a "quality" tea in 24 hours. After 24 hours of brewing in my brewers the tea looks like mud.

That being said when the temps drop 24 hours is not going to work to get a "quality" tea in any design.

 

[EclipseFour20]

OO...thanks for responding. Since the contents and spore counts are not available on his website http://ogbiowar.com/, and a google search came up empty...I am unable to compare Ogbiowar against other bio packs.

Could you or someone post a picture of the label that identifies the contents, spore counts and/or "guaranteed analysis". Information is golden and what I find is very limited.

This is the ONLY INFO published about his Foliar Pack:
The foliar pack was designed as a 100% safe, non chemical spray or drench.

The foliar pack includes but is not limited to:

-Bacillus sp.
-Beauveria sp.
-Metarhizium sp.
-Verticillium sp.

-Rhodospirillum sp.

These are all naturally occurring microbes that may help plants deal with environmental stress.


The Nute Pack:
The NUTE PACK is composed of

-Nitrogen fixers, which convert nitrogen gas in to usable nitrate. Nitrogen fixers also will increase plant growth as they produce vitamins, auxins, and gibberllins. Nitrogen fixers give a boost to seedling germination and overall yield.

-Phosphate solubilizers, which will dissolve fixed tricalcium phosphate in to the usable form monocalcium phosphate. These little guys also produce organic acids (citric acid, lactic acid), hormones, and enzymes which will help in nutrient uptake and general plant vigor.

-Potash mobilizers,that will seek out Potash near the root zone and bring it to the roots of the plant. It is great for low K soil, or coco, since coco is known to “hold” K.

-Mycorrhizae. This product has 125 spore colonies per gram of each of the following endo mycorrhizae:

-Glomus intraradices
-Glomis mosseae
-Glomis aggregatum
-Glomis clarum

The Root Pack:
The root pack is a proprietary blend of highly concentrated beneficial fungi and bacteria. The root pack is designed to promote plant health by boosting the immune system, increasing shoot and root growth, multiplying flower production, and contributing to the overall well being of your plants! The root pack has over 20 species including (but certainly not limited to) the following:

-Pseudomonas flourescens: This is a saprophyte that creates colonies in water, soil, and on plant tissue. It is known to suppress plant diseases by acting as a systemic (a unique ability). Once it enters the vascular system of the plant, it can produce antibiotics which may prevent fungal and bacterial diseases from taking hold.

-Bacillus: Bacillus is best applied to young plants and seedlings, so that it can take hold and colonize on the developing root system. Here, it will offer protection by limiting the growth of fungal organisms like fusarium. This bacteria is known to supress other fungi and bacteria that cause scab, powdery mildew, sour rot, downy mildew, and early leaf spot, early blight, late blight, bacterial spot, and walnut blight diseases.

-Trichoderma: Trichoderma is a beneficial fungus, that is known to seek and destroy other harmful fungi in the soil/media. The presence of trichoderma can cause the plant to activate its own SAR (stimulated auto response), which serves to boost its own immune system.

-Streptomyces: Streptomyces is a beneficial bacteria that i sknown to produce antibiotics as well as enzymes, and deter harmful fungi.

 

[Some old dude]

Thank you sir.

Thank you sir.

The OGBIOWAR packaging has all of the spore counts, and also lists all of the ingredients. To my knowledge the only thing it does not list is the talcum carrier. However that should be obvious.

As far as brewing times, there is no set time. Obviously the best thing to do is look at each brew under a microscope to tell when you should stop the brew. I understand that most people on here do not do that. However I do, and I can tell you that there are a lot of factors that play into "how long".

The first being brewer design, and efficiency. Without a scope you are just guessing at this. The next would be the ingredients that you add to your brews. Next which most over look will be temperature. When brewing in the 60's it can take over 48 hours to get a "quality" tea. With a poorly designed brewer it may take longer.

24 hours is a best case scenario with the right temps, and a brewer that was over built. Most of you are not going to hit the 24 hour mark. That is just a fact.

The thing to keep in mind is that if you are brewing for the benefits of OGBIOWAR then if it doesn't smell rank then you should not waste it.

If you are brewing for microbial count then you will not ever really know unless you scope it. A frothy head, an earthy smell, measuring dissolved oxygen levels, etc, don't really mean shit. A scope is the only way to know.

I can brew a microbial dense compost tea with almost zero frothy head. I can brew a compost tea that has almost no microbial life that has a giant frothy head, and smells earthy as hell. The point being that without a scope you are just guessing.

Keep in mind that if it doesn't smell rank then it should not harm your plants. Also keep in mind just because it doesn't smell rank, has a frothy, and may smell a bit earthy doesn't mean it is a "quality" compost tea.

To be a "quality" tea you need to do a basic microbial count. I do not actually count every microbe. I can look at it, and in about 10 seconds know if it is "quality."

What I would suggest to people that keep fighting owning a scope is to build an airlift brewer. They work, they are easy to build, and they are cheap to build. You can get design ideas from microbemans website @ www.microbeorganics.com .

With this design it would be safe to brew for somewhere in the 36 hour range. The thing to keep in mind is that at 24 hours you may have a shit ton of bacteria, but you may have no protozoa. Without the protozoa to eat the bacteria you are not going to get the benefits of increased nutrient cycling.

To save the pain of all of the shit I just said you can just mix OGBIOWAR in some water, and spray it. It will work the same.

With the right brewer design, and the right inputs it is possible to brew a "quality" tea in 24 hours. After 24 hours of brewing in my brewers the tea looks like mud.

That being said when the temps drop 24 hours is not going to work to get a "quality" tea in any design.

Thank you sir,

"To save the pain of all of the shit I just said you can just mix OGBIOWAR in some water, and spray it. It will work the same".

First time in five years I see no sign of BM,s. Bought a scope and see no eggs anywhere. And have not sprayed Toxins in almost a year. Thank you sir, I have just been spraying now down to twice a month and may extend that schedule longer.And I seems the health of the plants are better than I have ever seen.Miracle shit...???

 

[EclipseFour20]

Some information like this would be nice--

From: http://www.plant-success.com/index.php/mycorrhizal-products/jellyfish.html

Plant Success Jellyfish:

Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N) 2%
0.5% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
1.5% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 2%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 6%

Derived from:
Ascophyllum Nodosum (seaweed extract) microbe food

CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS:
Active Ingredients
32% Starch-g-poly (2-propenamide-co-2-propenoic acid) potassium salt
20% Humic Acids derived from leonardite
14% Ascophyllum Nodosum (seaweed extract) microbe food
3% Glycine
0.5% Vitamin B1

Mycorrhizae (1,562,525.5 of viable organisms per cc)
Endomycorrhizae 8.8 prop/g each
Glomus intraradices
Glomus mosseae
Glomus aggregatum
Glomus etunicatum
Glomus deserticola
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporum
Paraglomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita

Contains 1,223,691 cfu/g each of the following 14 species:
Azobacter chroococcum
Bacillus subtillus
Bacillus licheniformis
Bacillus azotoformanas
Bacillus megaterium
Bacillus coagulans
Bacillus pumilus
Bacillus thuringiensis
Paenibacillus durum
Paenibacillus polymyxa
Paenibacillus florescence
Psuedomonas aureofaceans
Streptomyces griseues
Streptomyces lydicus

 

[Some old dude]

Missing the most impotant spores

Missing the most impotant spores

Something like this would be nice--

From: http://www.plant-success.com/index.php/mycorrhizal-products/jellyfish.html

Plant Success Jellyfish:

Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N) 2%
0.5% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
1.5% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 2%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 6%

Derived from:
Ascophyllum Nodosum (seaweed extract) microbe food

CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS:
Active Ingredients
32% Starch-g-poly (2-propenamide-co-2-propenoic acid) potassium salt
20% Humic Acids derived from leonardite
14% Ascophyllum Nodosum (seaweed extract) microbe food
3% Glycine
0.5% Vitamin B1

Mycorrhizae (1,562,525.5 of viable organisms per cc)
Endomycorrhizae 8.8 prop/g each
Glomus intraradices
Glomus mosseae
Glomus aggregatum
Glomus etunicatum
Glomus deserticola
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporum
Paraglomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita

Contains 1,223,691 cfu/g each of the following 14 species:
Azobacter chroococcum
Bacillus subtillus
Bacillus licheniformis
Bacillus azotoformanas
Bacillus megaterium
Bacillus coagulans
Bacillus pumilus
Bacillus thuringiensis
Paenibacillus durum
Paenibacillus polymyxa
Paenibacillus florescence
Psuedomonas aureofaceans
Streptomyces griseues
Streptomyces lydicus

This is missing the most important part of OGB IMHO

-Beauveria Bassiana

 

[OrganicOzarks]

My label is dirty as hell so bare with me on the spellings

Bacillus thurengiensis kurstaki minimum 5 million spores
bacillus thuringiensis israellenses minimum 5 million spores
beavaria bassiane minimum 5 million spores
beavaria brongniartil minimum 5 million spores
saccharopolyspora spinosa minimum 5 million spores
metarhizium anosopliae minimum 5 million spores
verticullium lecanil minimum 5 million spores
ampelomyces quisqalis minimum 5 million spores
rhodospirrilum rubrum minimum 5 million spores
rhodopseudomonas palustris minimum 1 million spores
70% inert ingredients pharmaceutical grade talc.

Again sorry if I misspelled anything as my package is dirty.

I guess I was wrong, it does list the talcum.

Hope this helps.

 

[EclipseFour20]

YOUR THE MAN! Muchas grass.

 

[EclipseFour20]

This is missing the most important part of OGB IMHO

-Beauveria Bassiana

The Jellyfish data was presented--not as an endorsement (that product is their new roots bio product), rather as an example of the quality/type of information usually disclosed for us "comparison shoppers".

It would be nice if Caps did the same...I shouldn't have to buy something in order to discover what's in it. You know, Pelosi said something similar, "But we have to pass the bill (Obamacare) so that you can find out what is in it." Just trying to do comparison shopping; in my world--money is not as plentiful as it once was.

That said--Beauveria Bassiana is effective in eating/destroying insect cuticles and can be effective when used smartly...as it can be rather expensive.

Cheers!

 

[bubbler720]

OGbiowar foliar will have them gone in 3-4 days. It is the only product you will need. Skip all of the other bullshit. To much work with not enough results.

I gave OGbiowar a shot - two foliar dunks a week apart -- no dice on cyclamen mites.

 

[RetroGrow]

I gave OGbiowar a shot - two foliar dunks a week apart -- no dice on cyclamen mites.

Are you sure you had the humidity correct?
How do you explain the reported successes of some folks?