Broad Mites?

[GET MO]

cool. I been doing some research on predator mites... thought this was very interesting, but I cant find anywhere to order them...
http://www.syngenta.com/global/bioline/en/products/allproducts/Pages/Amblylinebar.aspx

This was a good read as well...
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2914298/

 

[Some old dude]

Swirskii

Swirskii

cool. I been doing some research on predator mites... thought this was very interesting, but I cant find anywhere to order them...
http://www.syngenta.com/global/bioline/en/products/allproducts/Pages/Amblylinebar.aspx

This was a good read as well...
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2914298/

The slow release sachets of A. Swirskii mites is the way to go.Because they come with there own food source and eggs to hatch allowing a slow release over time. I believe I actually have colonies of Swirskii mites in my yard bushes and tree's. I recently discovered "Western predator mites" and baby Praying Mantis on my Cali conn plants outside yesterday. Now that I have a digital microscope it's a whole new world ,hehe. (Flying and crawling "Vectors" can and will carry Good predator bugs as well as bad ones)

I think this is the place I got mine GL.
http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Organic...ects_Listing/SWIRSKI-MITE_Amblyseius_swirskii

P.S Make sure you talk to the dude he's cool, and be home when they arrive so they won't bake in the sun outside if you live in a hot area like me.

 

[RetroGrow]

Retro's advice with the aspirin appears to make a marked difference in the recovery time of my treated plants.

Plants not treated with aspirin (but with same miticides) did not recover as fast.

Try it yourself.

Break a Bayer 325 mg in half with the side of a spoon, crush both halves with the bottom of the spoon, put it in a glass of warm water to dissolve - and dump in your res.

Don't stop with the aspirin. Keep it in rez throughout grow.

 

[Messodas]

You were talking about duds... What is dude? What are duds?

Sorry for not understanding.

I tried to google it, but couldn't find anything...

Ok it's a broad mites treath.
But still thanks for an answer.

 

[Last stand]

I keep knocking these fucks back but forbid is not getting it done as an ovicide. I'm not even sure what I have because my eggs are round and apparently broad and cyclamen eggs are oval shaped, and russets are easy to spot on the stem. I'm getting full coverage with forbid, I'm dunking in a in arstone container at 2.5 ml per gal. All of the eggs are on the top leaves the bottom leaves are clean. Pics are between 200-240x zoom.

I don't have any symptoms because I just started over after total shutdown and have been treating with aspirin, avid, pylon, akari, triple action neem and forbid since the start. I just can't kill the eggs. maybe predators will finish off the eggs but I need to know what I have so I get the correct predators. I now have an epic seed supply because I wont take clones until this things dealt with. My last full run I noticed my new seeds did better than the older plants that were exposed to this misdiagnosed menace for over 8 months.

 

[Last stand]

The slow release sachets of A. Swirskii mites is the way to go.Because they come with there own food source and eggs to hatch allowing a slow release over time. I believe I actually have colonies of Swirskii mites in my yard bushes and tree's. I recently discovered "Western predator mites" and baby Praying Mantis on my Cali conn plants outside yesterday. Now that I have a digital microscope it's a whole new world ,hehe. (Flying and crawling "Vectors" can and will carry Good predator bugs as well as bad ones)

I think this is the place I got mine GL.
http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Organic...ects_Listing/SWIRSKI-MITE_Amblyseius_swirskii

P.S Make sure you talk to the dude he's cool, and be home when they arrive so they won't bake in the sun outside if you live in a hot area like me.

Definitely talk to the guy I think his name is Dave and he's very nice and helpful. I decided not to order because I'm still not sure what I have, these eggs are bugging me out.

 

[Some old dude]

Those look like trics to me

Those look like trics to me

I keep knocking these fucks back but forbid is not getting it done as an ovicide. I'm not even sure what I have because my eggs are round and apparently broad and cyclamen eggs are oval shaped, and russets are easy to spot on the stem. I'm getting full coverage with forbid, I'm dunking in a in arstone container at 2.5 ml per gal. All of the eggs are on the top leaves the bottom leaves are clean. Pics are between 200-240x zoom.
View Image View Image View Image View Image View Image
I don't have any symptoms because I just started over after total shutdown and have been treating with aspirin, avid, pylon, akari, triple action neem and forbid since the start. I just can't kill the eggs. maybe predators will finish off the eggs but I need to know what I have so I get the correct predators. I now have an epic seed supply because I wont take clones until this things dealt with. My last full run I noticed my new seeds did better than the older plants that were exposed to this misdiagnosed menace for over 8 months.

Those look like trics to me. I could of course be wrong, but in my own experience with the broads I have never seen that many eggs. And they are usually in sort of groups not spread out like that.And like you said more oval and a little cloudy. I don't pretend to be an expert , but I would say you have a nice strain there and nothing more. Also When I have used Judo/Forbid all I did was spray the top of the leaves did not even spray underneath (I don't like those chems but I did use them out of desperation) One time is all it took and I was always BM free for 6-9 months.I would feel safe in saying with that many eggs you would be totally destroyed actually.

 

[RetroGrow]

I keep knocking these fucks back but forbid is not getting it done as an ovicide. I'm not even sure what I have because my eggs are round and apparently broad and cyclamen eggs are oval shaped, and russets are easy to spot on the stem. I'm getting full coverage with forbid, I'm dunking in a in arstone container at 2.5 ml per gal. All of the eggs are on the top leaves the bottom leaves are clean. Pics are between 200-240x zoom.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=48072&pictureid=1122049&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=48072&pictureid=1122048&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=48072&pictureid=1122047&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=48072&pictureid=1122046&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=48072&pictureid=1122045&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
I don't have any symptoms because I just started over after total shutdown and have been treating with aspirin, avid, pylon, akari, triple action neem and forbid since the start. I just can't kill the eggs. maybe predators will finish off the eggs but I need to know what I have so I get the correct predators. I now have an epic seed supply because I wont take clones until this things dealt with. My last full run I noticed my new seeds did better than the older plants that were exposed to this misdiagnosed menace for over 8 months.

Bro, you don't have any eggs. What you are seeing are trichomes like SOD said. Eggs are found on the undersides of leaves, NOT the tops. Eggs are bigger than trichomes, and there have been enough pictures of each posted in this thread, that you should be recognizing them by now. I think you need to go back and do some reading, and Google the pix if you don't want to look at the many photos posted here.
So the good news is you don't have BMs at the current time. That can always change so you need to keep scoping, but learn the difference between mite eggs and trichomes which are on every plant in the world.
They are very different. Trichomes are supposed to be there, eggs ain't. Eggs are easy to see. They are bigger and are not shiny or transparent looking. They are "cloudy" looking, and are hatched on the underside of leaves, as the mites are averse to light, hence they lay their eggs "in the shade".

 

[RetroGrow]

You were talking about duds... What is dude? What are duds?

Sorry for not understanding.

I tried to google it, but couldn't find anything...

Ok it's a broad mites treath.
But still thanks for an answer.

Broad/Cyclamen mites inject a toxin into the plants which causes them to lose smell, taste, and potency, even though they may look O.K. These toxifyed plants are called "duds".

 

[Last stand]

Bro, you don't have any eggs. What you are seeing are trichomes like SOD said. Eggs are found on the undersides of leaves, NOT the tops. Eggs are bigger than trichomes, and there have been enough pictures of each posted in this thread, that you should be recognizing them by now. I think you need to go back and do some reading, and Google the pix if you don't want to look at the many photos posted here.
So the good news is you don't have BMs at the current time. That can always change so you need to keep scoping, but learn the difference between mite eggs and trichomes which are on every plant in the world.
They are very different. Trichomes are supposed to be there, eggs ain't. Eggs are easy to see. They are bigger and are not shiny or transparent looking. They are "cloudy" looking, and are hatched on the underside of leaves, as the mites are averse to light, hence they lay their eggs "in the shade".

What I meant to say was theyre on the bottom of the top leaves. Idk maybe I'm crazy I'm certainly paranoid and ruining the life of everyone around me for nine months. I'll keep an eye on it and see if they get more milky white in a day or so.

 

[knubs]

Last Stand- i must agree with RetroGrow. i scanned those pictures, but i just saw trichomes and no eggs. i can't say i blame you for the paranoia over these bastards though...

 

[sunset limited]

trying to exterminate trichs

 

[Thomas Paine]

Broa Mites on Lemon Tree

Broa Mites on Lemon Tree

Broad Mite and Bud Mite damage to the lemon tree in my front yard (I've identified both as Polyphagotarsonemus latus & Eriophyes sheldoni).

I put Tanglefoot at the base of the tree and have been hitting it with the OGBiowar. The Tangelfoot stopped the army of ants crawling up it. I am waiting on new bud sets and non-mishapen lemons to appear to gauge how well the OGBiowar works on these. The Avid label specifically says not to treat "host" plants with Abemectin, so I'm going 100% organic treatment on the tree:

 

[Thomas Paine]

I don't have any symptoms because I just started over after total shutdown and have been treating with aspirin, avid, pylon, akari, triple action neem and forbid since the start. I just can't kill the eggs.

Then stop treating.

A number of people mentioned just a few posts back that the eggs stay stuck on the plant for a while after treatment (up to a month). If you treated with all the stuff you mentioned, and obtained full coverage - they are dead.

What you are seeing is Capitate-Sessile trichome glands.

Capitate-Sessile: This trichome gland is larger (25 to 100 micrometers) and more numerous than the bulbous glands. They are called capitate, which means having a globular-shaped head. On immature plants, the heads lie flush, appearing not to have a stalk and are called capitate sessile. They have a stalk that is one cell high, although it may not be visible beneath the globular head. The head is composed of usually eight, but up to 16 cells, that form a convex rosette. These cells secrete cannabinoids and related compounds that accumulate between the rosette and its outer membrane. This gives it a spherical shape.

Your problem is solved. Now institute a IPM system into your garden on a weekly basis.

 

[knubs]

well i just declared official war on the broad mites. i've read about half of this thread and i'm ordering all the stuff i feel i could need and can afford. i have a few plans of attack to go by.
my arsenal now includes - avid, ogbiowar, forbid, kontos, and i'm contemplating essentria. i just got 1/4oz bottles of forbid and kontos from ebay. i wish i could find small bottles of akari and pylon too...

so far avid has been my main defense, and honestly it's keeping them at bay nicely. i have 16 hazy og in a 16 bucket water farm system from GH that is under 2 4foot 8bulb t-5's. they stalled for a minute but now i've been working hard with different concoctions of all my different nutes/additives/microbials and now they are growing and are really happy again. the whole system will flip into my flower room and go under 2 1000w's in a few weeks. i still see slight amounts of BM damage on them so i plan to spray with forbid every 3 days for 3 times, then i will do kontos every 3 days for 3 times. after that they will flower and i will start using ogbiowar on everything.
oh, and i will be doing heat treatments in my veg room as well. can i just throw a few thousand watts of hps into my veg room (a bedroom) and turn my ventilation off for a little bit to heat it up?

oh, and i did end up going to PO and grabbing those earthshaker og's... i got them down really low on the price and saw definite BM signs immediately. they keep their employees dumb as rocks though. i pointed out the obvious BM damage to the employee and said he didnt see any white spots or mites on the leaves. i told him they were microscopic so he pulled out a magnifying glass hahaha... so when i got them home i had a whole room ready to be a quarantine zone. i dunked all the clones in a strong solution of avid and put them in a dome while they were wet (it avid fogged the dome). the next day i scoped the earthshaker with my digital scope and saw dead mites. these clones will be treated hard before they ever come into the veg room. this is my all time favorite strain ever, so i really hope i can clean them.

 

[Some old dude]

Spray intervals

Spray intervals

Broad Mite and Bud Mite damage to the lemon tree in my front yard (I've identified both as Polyphagotarsonemus latus & Eriophyes sheldoni).

I put Tanglefoot at the base of the tree and have been hitting it with the OGBiowar. The Tangelfoot stopped the army of ants crawling up it. I am waiting on new bud sets and non-mishapen lemons to appear to gauge how well the OGBiowar works on these. The Avid label specifically says not to treat "host" plants with Abemectin, so I'm going 100% organic treatment on the tree:

View Image

View Image

View Image

Do Spray intervals of 5 days then seven days then ten days then two weeks intervals. Be sure to use non chlorinated water.

 

[talktosamson]

So in theory, if one were to tear down their entire room, let the mites die and let winter set in, there would be no place for them to live and hide correct? I know they are living in the grass inside my green house and in some of the wild strawberry plants around the property. But the herd should be exterminated when we have 2 feet of snow outside correct?

 

[RetroGrow]

So in theory, if one were to tear down their entire room, let the mites die and let winter set in, there would be no place for them to live and hide correct? I know they are living in the grass inside my green house and in some of the wild strawberry plants around the property. But the herd should be exterminated when we have 2 feet of snow outside correct?

Not necessarily, according to what I've read. They can survive over the winter. At least the eggs can. They cannot survive heat, though, so if tearing down the room, might as well give it a heat major treatment.

 

[RetroGrow]

.oh, and i will be doing heat treatments in my veg room as well. can i just throw a few thousand watts of hps into my veg room (a bedroom) and turn my ventilation off for a little bit to heat it up?

You can throw in extra lights to bring the heat up, or just use your room lights. You need 120F. Whatever it takes to get there, space heaters, extra lights, etc. Just make sure to have multiple thermometers to monitor temperatures. I would raise the plants up off the floor if that's where they are. Heat rises, so you don't want plants on the floor. Turn off all fans, , unless they are well below the plants and not blowing on them. Get canopy to 120F and leave it there for an hour. All mites will be dead.

 

[knubs]

is 120 degree heat safe for the roots in hydro or will it cook them in the water? i run the general hydro water farm system.