bobblehead's 1800w coco coliseum

[bobblehead]

"You gotta keep those pots wet, and you'll see the roots popping out. I mean soaked too. I don't skip waterings... They get watered until the bin floods. When the water is dried up from the bin, they get watered again. I try not to make them sit in too much water though... just a little...."

I have found the same thing, Bobble. Gotta keep those pots moist and the roots will come.

Looking good, bro.

You're really getting this pod system sorted.

Lots of really good info in this thread.

So good to have my Reservation Labs friends here!
Thanks for sharing your experience to confirm my observations.

Way cool bobble, dont know how I missed this for so long. I really like how you got that vert system set up. As soon as its dialed in you're gonna be pulling quite a bit out of that.
I cant wait to see how these babies turn out.

Welcome aboard Momerath! Personally I think there should be more vert gardens. Who needs all those hoods, tables and other things taking up space. That's space for plants! ha ha...

 

[DHF]

The primary function smartpots perform by air/root pruning is to prevent what happens in regular plastic plant containers known as "root spinning" that`s a total waste of plant energy that could be used for upper plant development......

That`s why they rule in young sapling tree production like Japanese Maple`s as they were intended for originally in the horticultural end of things business wise.,......

Folks don`t realize that once the lateral roots hit the outsides of the containers , start spinning and become rootbound , that the plants need up-potted to larger containers before that occurs so that by the time stretch is over , the rootmass will be large enough ta support proper nutrient uptake for the foliage/budsites above the medium WITHOUT ever having been stressed by root spinning that SP`s keep from happening while letting the rootzones breathe and dry out faster between feeds .....and......

I found out several yrs back when I went full coco about keepin the smartpots totally saturated at all times , compared to letting the bottom containers dry out enough between feeds for increased nutrient uptake , and not letting em sit in runoff till it evaporates won out Bobble.......IOW.....ease up on the feed lil bit and see if things remain kosher....

Yes , the roots that were air pruned did search out the juice left in my angled racks sittin in pondliner till either re-drunk or evaporated , but when I talked to ObSoul33T about why my plants weren`t really blowin up as much as I`d expected from my other setups , he told me ta feed once a day in # 5 sp`s compared to my feeds being twice per 12 hr cycle and let em dry out more towards lights off , and it made sense.....

Plants flower at night , and do photosynthesis for lumen absorption and all those chemical reactions I ain`t got a clue about during lights on , so it was determined by folks smarter than me that they needed enough moisture/juice ta get by till lights on , and then juice their ass for exploded swellage and growth lights on......

Try some H&G dripclean next run where no runoff`s required , and see how things progress.....All that porcupine shit stickin through those SP`s is just showing how efficient and healthy Bobble`s rootzones are......

Lotta problems dialin coco "internal" ph and the way it holds onto Cal/mag and potassium before releasing it back to the plants for proper absorption and uptake.....I do see some issues , but I`m not there to inspect so WTF do I know....?.....lol...

You can test runoff ph , but what`s inside the rootmass can be higher or lower.....It`s been proven time and time again , and that`s where the solution of sufficient runoff after every feed was determined to keep the residual salts from building up in the medium and causing lockouts and imbalances that dripclean`s supposed to eliminate......

Aight......Nuff outta my old ass.......

Peace.....DHF..........

 

[bobblehead]

Plants flower at night , and do photosynthesis for lumen absorption and all those chemical reactions I ain`t got a clue about during lights on , so it was determined by folks smarter than me that they needed enough moisture/juice ta get by till lights on , and then juice their ass for exploded swellage and growth lights on......

That makes sense... less water in the root zone = more available nutrients. Will do.

Lotta problems dialin coco "internal" ph and the way it holds onto Cal/mag and potassium before releasing it back to the plants for proper absorption and uptake.....I do see some issues , but I`m not there to inspect so WTF do I know....?.....lol...

I want to hear what issues you see, even if you dont know all the factors that could be causing what you see. I agree it's less than perfect, but everything is getting fed the same basic formula. GH 6/9 2mL silica blast the first 4 weeks, 9mL bloom the rest of the time. Kool Bloom once at weeks 2,4, and 5. I keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.0. I dropped the root stimulator...
Never used cal/mag.

I have to find a place that carries drip-clean... Everyone seems to swear by this stuff. Anyway, your advice on my nute regime is welcome... If it's a problem seen on more than one plant, it's clearly an issue that needs to be addressed. I think my petioles are mostly red... They should be green.

 

[DHF]

Nothin ta do with the nutrient regimen per se Bro , but the issues with the dead yellow spotted leaves alerted me to ph issues most likely from the plants sittin in runoff juice and re-absorbing it throwin things outta whack lil bit........

As I said earlier about the rootmass ph level bein either higher or lower from actual runoff readings is a good possibility why your petioles are purplish from the beginnings of calcium lockout , but I`m not there to physically inspect , and some strain`s petiole`s are genetically purplish like Heath`s Black Rose , so again it`s a bit of trial and error involved to dial shit in Bro.......

Try flushing with 1/2 strength nutrient solution , suckin out all the runoff and check ph and ppm`s as well......Lotta times ph runoff will be within normal tolerances , but ppm`s will tend to rise if the medium`s holdin onto the juice , instead of falling as the plants eat and assimilate their food.....

In a perfect world with total balance , as the plants eat , ppm`s should drop , and ph rise ....gradually.... between feeds....

As a whole the girls look good BH , I`m just always paranoid bout those issues that can affect yield even in the slightest bit ya know ?.........

I`ve heard many many positive reports from growbro`s on "drip clean" stopping residual salt buildup and lockouts/imbalances from cal/mag and potassium issues inside coco....

Carry on Bro....Not tryin ta freak yas out , just tryinta keep yas on track.....

Edit: Just saw yas don`t use cal/mag......that`s a big no-no with coco and R/O water....or are yas usin tapwater and I overlooked it ?.....that could very easily be the reason behind the purplish petioles as that`s the first sign of calcium deficiency......

Peace...DHF.........

 

[whodare]

dont bother with drip clean i dont have run off and i dont use drip clean. im running botanicare cns17 and i love it. i was using a little magi-cal in veg and pre flower... i havent deviated from a ph of 5.8, imho that is very important... the other thing, if you dont have one, is get a ppm meter...

 

[bobblehead]

I use low ppm tap water... That's why I don't use cal/mag. so it's definitely from the plants sitting in runoff... I've been running the same nute regime, and I've had it dialed perfectly before... The plants were sitting in less water b/c it was in those plastic saucers. I've had Chemistry, so I understand what you're saying about ion concentrations effecting pH.

I'll start watering them just enough to keep them wet as opposed to watering till runoff. When I can find the drip clean, I'll give it a go... I have a few places to check. I can probably check the H&G website as well... Keeping those ions dissolved is important enough to add some drip-clean.

 

[whodare]

low ppm water means you should add cal mag... i got really pure water too like 50-80 ppm out the tap and have to use it especially in coco...

 

[bobblehead]

low ppm water means you should add cal mag... i got really pure water too like 50-80 ppm out the tap and have to use it especially in coco...

lol, not quite that low... or is it... I forget these things when I'm high. BRB...

pH 7.6 ppm 220- so that should be plenty of cal/mag...

and no disrespect whodare, but have you tried floating through the different pH ranges 5.5-6.0? I mean I shoot for 5.8, but I'll take anything close. Different ions are more available for absorbtion b/c of how they're charged and react at certain pH levels... Anyway, I just don't believe in a specific pH and a specific ppm... I think it should float within a reasonable range.

 

[mrktwiz]

HIGH ph = high cal/mag?

 

[bobblehead]

HIGH ph = high cal/mag?

no, cal/mag will raise the pH back up to neutral levels... If the pH is too high, cal/mag might not be available for absorption.

 

[whodare]

in the begining of my thread i had problems... never figured what it was but i know it was calmag or from when i swung my ph to 6.1 or both...

so since then ive been maintaining 5.8 and added calmag at 3ml per gal and everything has been looking good.

either way if your tap is 200 you shouldnt need calmag so try and keep your ph at 5.8 i know some people say swing it but in coco i dont think you should unless needed

 

[johnny butt]

I just add in cal-mag at 2-5ml/gal and don't bother checking pH... Either I'm a lucky one and happen to fall into range or cal-mag is some good juice. Perlite/coco mix.


Multiple water sources, all tap water, and it works magic. Add that cal-mag religiously, like the after sex sandwich... It's good for her health


Looking nice in here bobble. Can't wait to see the 6 footer

 

[DHF]

The reason for 15-20% runoff in the beginnings of ALL coco setups was to wash out potential residual salt buildup that DEFINITELY affects ph Who , but yeah I`ve seen many folks swear that they roll with no runoff and get dialed results , but......

Not 1 has had the yields with no runoff compared to originally flushing every feed.......Even feed , water , feed , etc , was always more efficient than no runoff at all.......

Dripclean does away with all chances of any buildup or ph wonkyness , and at 1 ml per gal application , it`s CHEAP fukin insurance when guaranteed coco can and will hold onto X amounts of calcium , magnesium , AND potassium ALL at different times during each grow cycle per it`s cation exchange capacity ok ?......

No offense Who , but just sayin roll with no runoff and it`s all good cuz you`re doin ok with it is bad advice......Bobble , I ran 1/2 tap and 1/2 R/O with my coco setups , and always hadta supplement Cal/Mag at least 2-3 ml per gal......and drip clean`s high dollar shit , but lasts forever at such low doseages....

I`d suggest yas get some cal/mag and see if the purple petioles turn back neon green as they should be for dialed conditions , cuz with less runoff the potential for buildup is always greater , unless you feed with runoff and then suck it out the bins with a shop vac or such......That`ll be a bitch in itself too , so......

Again....Cal/mag at least 1-2 ml per just ta see if things improve , and dripclean with no runoff FTW......maybe it is cuz of sittin in runoff..time will tell...

Handle it.....DHF....

 

[whodare]

Not 1 has had the yields with no runoff compared to originally flushing every feed.......Even feed , water , feed , etc , was always more efficient than no runoff at all.......



No offense Who , but just sayin roll with no runoff and it`s all good cuz you`re doin ok with it is bad advice......Bobble , I ran 1/2 tap and 1/2 R/O with my coco setups , and always hadta supplement Cal/Mag at least 2-3 ml per gal......and drip clean`s high dollar shit , but lasts forever at such low doseages....


Again....Cal/mag at least 1-2 ml per just ta see if things improve , and dripclean with no runoff FTW......maybe it is cuz of sittin in runoff..time will tell...

Handle it.....DHF....

id like to hear your reasoning for having run off cause people who use blumats have no run off and yeild great... that being said it surely isnt bad to have run off i just dont see it as necessary until pre-harvest flush. the hard part is figuring how much water it takes to get all the coco wet and not have runoff.

cal mag for the win...

 

[bobblehead]

id like to hear your reasoning for having run off cause people who use blumats have no run off and yeild great... that being said it surely isnt bad to have run off i just dont see it as necessary until pre-harvest flush. the hard part is figuring how much water it takes to get all the coco wet and not have runoff.

cal mag for the win...

He explained it you just missed it. Runoff flushes out excess salts built up in the coco. However you can't have your plants sitting in that runoff afterward. That way they've got 100% fresh nutrients every time. Something I looked over. Drip clean is going to prevent those salts from building up in the first place. I don't know much about blumats... maybe one day, but for now I have enough on my plate...

 

[whodare]

if you dont over feed salts shouldnt build up to the point of being a problem... i havent gone over 900 ppm and that is peak flower...

blumats dont have run off but the people who have experience with them say you have to feed a little lighter, i assume because of salt buildup...

my point is that if you dont feed to run off lower the feed strength. if you want runoff youll have to feed more as youll be washing out what was left... a waste imho...

i dont have enough experience to say one way or another but my garden looks fine and i havent had runoff...

 

[DHF]

Hey Who.....The thing with blumat`s stayin constantly wet is from their constantly "drying out" as the plants eat beneath the surface of the coco where the cones/sensors are bleeding juice into the rootzones by osmosis/seepage through the porous ceramic cones throughout the drying/eating process that nobody sees........

Folks think that blumats just shit juice out those lil drippers , when in actuality without juice drainin out sideways from the cones , the lil driptubing sensor on top of the cones would never even open up and drip .......also....

Most everyone I know at many many many invite only med sites using blumats , the first thing on their list of requirements is H&G`s "drip clean" ftw in their lil to no runoff with lower ppm`s.........

Trust me Who.......not an ounce of bullshit over here Bro.....Here ta help , and I`d not try and spam some product if it wasn`t absolutely helpin 100`s of folks I talk to regularly.....

Wish I`d had access to the shit back several yrs ago , cuz I wasted 1000`s of gals of nutrient solution all in the name of keepin the fuckin coco happy for dialed results.....

For the last 8 yrs or so of runnin lower ppm`s per Heath`s persuasion , I never ran over 750 ppm`s ftw.......every run........but........

I wasted buncha juice as has already been said to insure no residual salt buildup with cal/mag and potassium potential lockouts from wonky ass ph imbalances....

If cal/mag and potassium aren`t in sync , then phosphorous gets locked out and shit don`t swell up cuz it can`t uptake swellage juice.....

I only went to my setups once a week and set ph low at 5.5 thereabouts , and by the time I got back , runoff readings were 6.2-3......As plants eat , ph rises and ppm`s drop.....gradually....and it`s a good thingy cuz different macro`s and micro`s are absorbed by the plant at different ph levels from mid 5`s-6.3-ish for dialed conditions......

I certainly hope your 900 ppm mark`s not already too high , cuz I agree Who , your shit looks fine.........but.....

Just stay on top of things cuz coco`s a fickle bitch and will go sideways on yas in a minute if internal rootzone conditions aren`t optimum..........

Bobble.....I know these lil things will come to pass , you`re well on yer way......

Peace.....DHF..........

 

[whodare]

Hey Who.....The thing with blumat`s stayin constantly wet is from their constantly "drying out" as the plants eat beneath the surface of the coco where the cones/sensors are bleeding juice into the rootzones by osmosis/seepage through the porous ceramic cones throughout the drying/eating process that nobody sees........

Folks think that blumats just shit juice out those lil drippers , when in actuality without juice drainin out sideways from the cones , the lil driptubing sensor on top of the cones would never even open up and drip .......also....

Most everyone I know at many many many invite only med sites using blumats , the first thing on their list of requirements is H&G`s "drip clean" ftw in their lil to no runoff with lower ppm`s.........


Trust me Who.......not an ounce of bullshit over here Bro.....Here ta help , and I`d not try and spam some product if it wasn`t absolutely helpin 100`s of folks I talk to regularly.....
i know your one of the good guys

Wish I`d had access to the shit back several yrs ago , cuz I wasted 1000`s of gals of nutrient solution all in the name of keepin the fuckin coco happy for dialed results.....
lol ok geez ill try it. i already have a sample bottle sittin around just havent cracked it


For the last 8 yrs or so of runnin lower ppm`s per Heath`s persuasion , I never ran over 750 ppm`s ftw.......every run........but........
duly noted might lower idk havent seen a touch of tip burn yet
I wasted buncha juice as has already been said to insure no residual salt buildup with cal/mag and potassium potential lockouts from wonky ass ph imbalances....

If cal/mag and potassium aren`t in sync , then phosphorous gets locked out and shit don`t swell up cuz it can`t uptake swellage juice.....

I only went to my setups once a week and set ph low at 5.5 thereabouts , and by the time I got back , runoff readings were 6.2-3......As plants eat , ph rises and ppm`s drop.....gradually....and it`s a good thingy cuz different macro`s and micro`s are absorbed by the plant at different ph levels from mid 5`s-6.3-ish for dialed conditions......

I certainly hope your 900 ppm mark`s not already too high
me too lol
, cuz I agree Who , your shit looks fine.........but.....
its that beginners luck lol

Just stay on top of things cuz coco`s a fickle bitch and will go sideways on yas in a minute if internal rootzone conditions aren`t optimum..........

Bobble.....I know these lil things will come to pass , you`re well on yer way......

Peace.....DHF..........

take care who.d

 

[DHF]

More indica dominant varieties take the nutes without showin tip burn , but they don`t do as well with more rather than less IME......

Here`s the thing.....As plants suck juice through roots and transfer said juice to produce optimum foliage and potential budmass through efficient nutrient uptake and proper transpiration that`s controlled by ambient temps and relative humidity , shit swells accordingly as long as cation exchange capacity is in sync runnin coco.....

It`s simple , but complex by the same token for a lotta folks depending on where they live.......I was blessed with high ass humidity that always allowed my bitches ta be all they could be till end of stretch , and swell accordingly till end of cycle .....

After end of stretch.....My dehuey`s ran 24/7 till end of cycle , while still exchanging each rooms air closeta twice per minute......

It`s the little things......DHF.........

 

[bobblehead]

I love how much knowledge and Q&A my thread is filling up with.

This just in... SOUR DIESEL IBL!!! 11 seeds! Also got my Chrome Blue Cindy testers. Chrome used a 45 day bb and c99 boy... This one has some commercial potential imo... Fast flowering guaranteed.