static shock
Member
Lol sparking/ignition only goes to show the bho is swimming in butane.
You can still have under purged oil if it doesn't spark..
Just saying
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- Thread starter sanke
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Lol sparking/ignition only goes to show the bho is swimming in butane.
You can still have under purged oil if it doesn't spark..
Just saying
Theres no way for me to know if there's any butane left in it. Your reading way to much into this. This is not rocket science.Im not dealing in BHO. If I was I would invest in a vac purge system. As far as I can tell there is no butane in my BHO.. I have a heating pad will that get hot enough??
Faster way = thin film purging using constant heat and deep vacuum. Thin film purging means less than 1/8" in my book. Your at about 2 inchs plus with that shot glass.
static shock
Member
No sir you are just sloppy with your tek.
To each is their own, enjoy your purged bho
just trying to help a fellow hash head out.
To each is their own, enjoy your purged bho
just trying to help a fellow hash head out.
At least im not being a ass about it. Im asking for a better way but you have a chip on your shoulder so go play with someone else. Go fix your own un purged BHO...lol FASTER WAY= I DONT HAVE ANY OF THAT STUFF.......I will try the heating pad ...
If you have a heating pad slow and low is the best method. Try and keep a constant heat of around 110 - 125 depending on the viscosity of your oil and just let it do its thing for a few hours. Purging thin films using only heat can work fine, but the thicker oil the less surface area there is for solvent to release.
static shock
Member
16 for the Oil Slick Pro
$25 for the Electric griddle
$30 for the thermometer
Fun with Science
Sorry for being an ass but I feel as tho you asked for help and now are just determined to do it your way.
My only goal was to show you there are better ways of doing things than the route you currently are taking
Thanks for the neg rep shows you care
$25 for the Electric griddle
$30 for the thermometer
Fun with Science
Sorry for being an ass but I feel as tho you asked for help and now are just determined to do it your way.
My only goal was to show you there are better ways of doing things than the route you currently are taking
Thanks for the neg rep shows you care
Thanks I spread it out so it's pretty even now. I put the heating pad on high? I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for the help midwest and hammalamma
I dont know if the heat pad will get that hot. It will have to do for now...I put my hydro farm temp controller probe on it. I have 130f right now. So I turn the pad down to medium. I will let that stabilize and check it later.
After turning the pad down it is now stable at 126f.. I will leave it like this for 2 hrs. If you think I should let it go longer let me know..
After turning the pad down it is now stable at 126f.. I will leave it like this for 2 hrs. If you think I should let it go longer let me know..
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static shock
Member
I just looked at the amount your purging when it was on the scale I would say leave it on overnight depending on the thickness, you just need it hot enough to keep the oil viscous. That oil already looks partially decarboxylated so I am assuming it doesn't need much heat, 110 should be enough, but I can't be certain just from a picture. I purge untill all solvent and moisture bubbles have stopped forming and I am left with completley translucent zero bubble sap/shatter.
ColoraDro
Active member
That's what ive been using besides the temp gun and been getting that fire shatter!
Dro
I have seen some that was left on like your asking it was pitch black. I did not like the product.. If this is going to turn pitch black I dont want that to happen.. I will pm GW...I sent it to Jump instead
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static shock
Member
my oil was purged for 36 hours on 90 degrees F, does it look black to you?
I know a trick some do is to put heating pads all around the dish, basically making a low-temp oven. Then periodically, not too often, popping your bubbles.
I'm hoping I can re-purpose a FlavorWave Oven for a vac oven.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrVWyj-XcbQ
"Just set it to cook, and you're off the hook"
Your oil is already very dark, that's why I said it looks like you extracted from partially decarboxylated material. I've never heat purged ounces only grams. All oz plus bho extracts I make are purged under deep vacuum with constant heat in a thin film and I still purge forever. Butane loves to hold onto cannabis oil.
What type of material did you extract from and what temp was your intitial purge before shot glass? My guess would be very old trim with low resin content from the color of your oil.
What type of material did you extract from and what temp was your intitial purge before shot glass? My guess would be very old trim with low resin content from the color of your oil.
No the bud I used was over a year old very high quality.... If you use bud thats very old it will be dark thats a given.. I use buds that are at least 1 year old. This will give you a very dark oil right from the get go. I love the flavor .......Has nothing to do with temp as the initial purge was only hot water. I always use hot water nothing more. This run im just doing this to see if there's a improvement from what I usually do. If not its all good.. I will try anything once..
static shock
Member
No, i don't use a vacuum sadly i purged about .7 for that long
Low slow heat, plus spread out thin from the get-co is the way i go about purging.
I don't agitate or touch the oil until all the activity stops and the oil is in a stable consistency.
None of that halfway crap, i find thats when i know i have purging to do.
Yes when bud is that old it is partially decarboxylated if not fully depending on conditions it was kept. This will also cause your oil to have a lower viscosity than an oil with cannabinoids in their carboxylic acid form, it will also be darker. Which is why freshly dried flowers gives you the best tasting and looking oils that glass up easily.
That oil looks as dark as my fully decarboxylated absolute ready for capsules.
Regardless of it being extracted from buds or trim, my point was that it's very old material your extracting from giving you this type of product. If you want something tastier and lighter colored you need to extract from fresher material.
That oil looks as dark as my fully decarboxylated absolute ready for capsules.
Regardless of it being extracted from buds or trim, my point was that it's very old material your extracting from giving you this type of product. If you want something tastier and lighter colored you need to extract from fresher material.
