Bangi Haze
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Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Nice buds NR
How are you set up indoors? I'm trying to grow some clones I cut from my outdoor run and they are going slow. what soil mix and additives did you use inside? I run a 75% promix and 25% happy frog mix and feed with fish hydrolysate. I topdressed outdoor with some horse compost from a new source and they loved it. So I used the compost instead of happy frog for an inside run and I got a lot of leaf curl on the edge and burnt edges and tips. I have now repotted in the old style mix from 1 up to 3 gal pots and recovery is under way. I hope to get them healthy enough to take a batch of clones for a sog.
smokemifugotum
NativeRedman
Member
5 gallon grow bags and a mix of 50 50 happy frog and ocean forest plus added in some green sand kelp meal, castings, bone meal very light at the bottom, dolomite lime and roots organic bloom. watered with a mix of kelp blast and molasses. Super simple and nothing serious about it I'm going to keep reusing the soil its in a tot with organic matter and a bunch of worms. I prefer organics If I can do it
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing your mix.
I prefer the organic method too. I have been reusing my soil for some time. The first 3 or 4 rounds worked well but I got off base some and am now starting over with fresh. I just reamended with Caco4 SRP and gypsum, soak it down with a microbe mix and put a lid on the tub for 4 weeks. On this new batch I'm going to use some bone meal and azomite too. I feed pretty heavy with the fish indoors on hybrids I', backing off on the Bangi this time hoping to improve flavor and get a better fade. I used earth juice microblast earlier and recently switched to FF growbig. I think the EJ was best for me and my fish. The FF is designed to go with their grow and bloom and I think I miss something using the fish instead.
Thats interesting you had one go 14 weeks I had 5 girls this time and all were in the 11 week range.
kickarse
Active member
Grew a Bangi Haze last year(winter) was one of the best smokes of the year, never took a cutting unfortunately.
Grew a couple this winter, as well as a few other strains( Thai Chi. M x PCK, few of me own), was very cold and wet, had lots of hermi issues and a dose of Aphids on almost every plant,
except for the Bangi, it powered thru better than all the rest.
Got a magnificent orange menthol? smelling/tasting one, got a few cuttings heading at the moment (light dep), + one in a 50 liter pot growing, will take some cuttings of it and run one as a mother.
going to grow out all the seeds I've got left(20+) and see what other goodies i can find
Grew a couple this winter, as well as a few other strains( Thai Chi. M x PCK, few of me own), was very cold and wet, had lots of hermi issues and a dose of Aphids on almost every plant,
except for the Bangi, it powered thru better than all the rest.
Got a magnificent orange menthol? smelling/tasting one, got a few cuttings heading at the moment (light dep), + one in a 50 liter pot growing, will take some cuttings of it and run one as a mother.
going to grow out all the seeds I've got left(20+) and see what other goodies i can find
BobMarley99
Member
Oh yes that Bangi Haze is indeed a special one... for sure!
Of the 5 strains grown last cycle, Banji Haze was the hands down favorite.
The Wife and I are medical folks, no smokie, smokie! For us its either RSO or tea. I currently have around 1 dozen different strains we've grown in either herb or oil. Bangi Haze is at the top of that heap as well. Guess that meens, we like it!
The Wife and I are medical folks, no smokie, smokie! For us its either RSO or tea. I currently have around 1 dozen different strains we've grown in either herb or oil. Bangi Haze is at the top of that heap as well. Guess that meens, we like it!
Hey,
I've got some problems with my Bangi weed and hope to find an answer here.
I had this really beautiful Bangi Haze last season. First time at this spot, it was grown outdoors in organic soil at 49N on a steep hill with lots of sun and a quite rocky soil. It was a dry and hot season. My time in the garden was limited, so I had to water quite a lot in short time. At the beginning/mid of flower the leafs started to twist and became yellow. I'm pretty shure that it was because of too much water in a short time, because the roots were washed free at the top of the soil.
Despite these problems the plant was growing just beautiful. The flowers became pretty big and dense with lots of resin. The smell wasn't that strong but nice. I cut her at the end of October. Drying for 9 days and from that time curing.
So here is the problem. The weed doesn't burn at all. Even if it's bone dry. It looks fantastic and smells good how it should be but when I light it up, after half a puff it goes out.
I have no explanation what could be the problem or how it's physically possible that dry weed doesn't burn. Maybe someone has an answer for that so I can make shure that it is safe for extraction or edibles. It would be a shame wasting all these wonderful buds...
Apart from that the 2 Violetas turned out amazing. Wonderful genetics and thumbs up to the guys from ACE!
I've got some problems with my Bangi weed and hope to find an answer here.
I had this really beautiful Bangi Haze last season. First time at this spot, it was grown outdoors in organic soil at 49N on a steep hill with lots of sun and a quite rocky soil. It was a dry and hot season. My time in the garden was limited, so I had to water quite a lot in short time. At the beginning/mid of flower the leafs started to twist and became yellow. I'm pretty shure that it was because of too much water in a short time, because the roots were washed free at the top of the soil.
Despite these problems the plant was growing just beautiful. The flowers became pretty big and dense with lots of resin. The smell wasn't that strong but nice. I cut her at the end of October. Drying for 9 days and from that time curing.
So here is the problem. The weed doesn't burn at all. Even if it's bone dry. It looks fantastic and smells good how it should be but when I light it up, after half a puff it goes out.
I have no explanation what could be the problem or how it's physically possible that dry weed doesn't burn. Maybe someone has an answer for that so I can make shure that it is safe for extraction or edibles. It would be a shame wasting all these wonderful buds...
Apart from that the 2 Violetas turned out amazing. Wonderful genetics and thumbs up to the guys from ACE!
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Welcome to ICMag!! 
I assure you it was not overwatering. Question. What color were the flowers at harvest time? I'm guessing it was a very nice deep green? Also, what is the soil like where you grew the plant? Cannabis is used for phytoremediation and will absorb many elements it has zero need for. My first guess would be excess nutrients, or something in the soil.
You should still be able to do an ethanol or oil extraction.
I assure you it was not overwatering. Question. What color were the flowers at harvest time? I'm guessing it was a very nice deep green? Also, what is the soil like where you grew the plant? Cannabis is used for phytoremediation and will absorb many elements it has zero need for. My first guess would be excess nutrients, or something in the soil.
You should still be able to do an ethanol or oil extraction.
YukonKronic
Active member
Hey,
I've got some problems with my Bangi weed and hope to find an answer here.
I had this really beautiful Bangi Haze last season. First time at this spot, it was grown outdoors in organic soil at 49N on a steep hill with lots of sun and a quite rocky soil. It was a dry and hot season. My time in the garden was limited, so I had to water quite a lot in short time. At the beginning/mid of flower the leafs started to twist and became yellow. I'm pretty shure that it was because of too much water in a short time, because the roots were washed free at the top of the soil.
Despite these problems the plant was growing just beautiful. The flowers became pretty big and dense with lots of resin. The smell wasn't that strong but nice. I cut her at the end of October. Drying for 9 days and from that time curing.
So here is the problem. The weed doesn't burn at all. Even if it's bone dry. It looks fantastic and smells good how it should be but when I light it up, after half a puff it goes out.
I have no explanation what could be the problem or how it's physically possible that dry weed doesn't burn. Maybe someone has an answer for that so I can make shure that it is safe for extraction or edibles. It would be a shame wasting all these wonderful buds...
Apart from that the 2 Violetas turned out amazing. Wonderful genetics and thumbs up to the guys from ACE!
Many Sativa will "eat" larger fan leaves at onset of flower to feed stretch. This could explain the yellowing to some extent but it sounds more likely that the extra vigorous watering may have both "washed" lots of bound nutrients from soil so they were all available at same time to the now reduced root system. Basically an inadvertent overfeed and root prune at same time.
If the plant took in too much at one point and never got enough even watering thru rest of cycle or maybe just not enough time (lots to do when your a plant flowering before you die!) to balance its "load" of nutrients then perhaps it was unable to flush extra unused bits out before its death? Or perhaps alternatively or in addition to that the soil became depleted of nutrition from same watering event. That could even cause a ph swing if water and soil were vastly different Ph levels.
Even moisture in the root zone is a huge plus for any plant. Improving soil tilth with peat and or clay when needed can help a lot as can many other amendments and soil building techniques. At minimum I think it would do you well to find a balanced compost source and WORMS. Worms are a lynchpin to any well functioning organic soil.
You might know a lot of this... I'm ignorant of your level of ignorance. If mine exceeds your own you will need a greater mind.. there are many here
I recommend a thick mulch layer to help retain moisture and prevent soil erosion.. plants LOVE when you throw all your extract waste (leftover herbs) and stems and fan leaves down at beginning of flower and mulch it with 6-8 inches of straw or leaf litter... or both.
You should be fine with extracts. A long cure might help too. My indoor organic Golden Tiger still won't burn a joint without relighting a buncha times and it's bone dry and cured 6 weeks now... it gets better every week now though. Sativas seem to reeeaally like long ass cure times.
Thanks for the answers.
Last year was my second season in this garden. It's a dry quite steep slope with a rocky soil. Soil testing said lots of P, K an trace elements. C-org could be more but is ok. No Toxic elements in uncommon quantities. Feeding was a covercrop the year before to get more organic matter in the soil. Mulch during the winter and some compost in the beginning of the season. During the season compost tea and some compost in the beginning of flower and a lot of mulch in the beginning. Because of the drought mulch became rare later on. In combination with the rocky soil and too much water in short time she got these problems. Maybe she had some heatstress in addition. It was the hottest and driest summer I can remember. Beside the yellowing her leafs where twisting and the edges were turning up. I interpreted it as the signs of rootproblems (in combination with the washed off roots) in combination with heatstress.
I'm pretty shure she wasn't overfed. The yellowing happened fast in the beginning. When I realized the rootproblems, I changed the water regime. The leafs where still yellowing but much slower (as usual). She lost lots of leafs till harvest. So I can't imagine she got too much. Is there any nutrient where the older leafs turn yellow like a N deficiency when overfed?
The flowers are curing for 4 months now. They doesn't smell strong but good. Definitely not much chlorophyll. I tried different stages of drying after curing between 1 hour and 5 days. But the doesn't burn at all.
What do you think about a fungi or mould infestation through the hurted roots? But no other signs than yellowing and twisting leafs?
The big question for me is: what is in the plant material or resin that prevents the weed from burning, when it's not water?
Last year was my second season in this garden. It's a dry quite steep slope with a rocky soil. Soil testing said lots of P, K an trace elements. C-org could be more but is ok. No Toxic elements in uncommon quantities. Feeding was a covercrop the year before to get more organic matter in the soil. Mulch during the winter and some compost in the beginning of the season. During the season compost tea and some compost in the beginning of flower and a lot of mulch in the beginning. Because of the drought mulch became rare later on. In combination with the rocky soil and too much water in short time she got these problems. Maybe she had some heatstress in addition. It was the hottest and driest summer I can remember. Beside the yellowing her leafs where twisting and the edges were turning up. I interpreted it as the signs of rootproblems (in combination with the washed off roots) in combination with heatstress.
I'm pretty shure she wasn't overfed. The yellowing happened fast in the beginning. When I realized the rootproblems, I changed the water regime. The leafs where still yellowing but much slower (as usual). She lost lots of leafs till harvest. So I can't imagine she got too much. Is there any nutrient where the older leafs turn yellow like a N deficiency when overfed?
The flowers are curing for 4 months now. They doesn't smell strong but good. Definitely not much chlorophyll. I tried different stages of drying after curing between 1 hour and 5 days. But the doesn't burn at all.
What do you think about a fungi or mould infestation through the hurted roots? But no other signs than yellowing and twisting leafs?
The big question for me is: what is in the plant material or resin that prevents the weed from burning, when it's not water?
K deficiency, almost 100% sure. Too much water too fast and prolongated drought period do leach k out of the soil or make it unavailable, i don't know exactly how it works but i'm sure it's the problem.
K is used by tobacco company to ensure good combustion of their crop.
K is used by tobacco company to ensure good combustion of their crop.
YukonKronic
Active member
Pretty sure señor Pepe is correct. K is very water soluble and leaf edges folding up is often a sign of heat stress so stands to reason the soil dried causing the K to precipitate as a salt which was then washed away by heavy watering... I don't know much about HOW mineral content influences burn rate but I know it does.. again Pepe is on right track to be looking to the tobacco industry.. they've been smoking plants a loooong time.
I don't know why it wouldn't burn after so long... pretty sure your still fine to try extracting it tho....
Have you heard of "water holding crystals"? I think it's basically silica but it's a product designed to be thrown into soil to increase its water carrying capacity. I believe some outdoor growers have used them successfully in dry locations... continuing to increase organic matter in your soil will help as organics hold both water AND nutrition in the soil for later... Bio Char can also be helpful but I would only use really well "charged" and only powdered char or it may increase drainage and/or "rob" nutrition by bonding with available cations and forcing plant to "work" at getting them back rather than serving as the extra reserves for when soluble nutrition runs out... clays hold water and food as well.
SulPoMag or GreenSand are good slow release K sources.
It sounds as if adding manure, compost, peat or even sawdust to your soils could go a long way to building them up with organics... might be a good exercise for the off season? Load hole with blood meal horseshit and sawdust till it's more of the spongy texture we like and then keep it wet enough to decompose over next two months or whatever. Once it's broken down enough plant a cover crop that digs deep and tolerates drought... if the cover stays green and thriving your herb probably will too. I like Brome grass. It's a dry farming Alfalfa that's gone feral most places cattle have been. It sends roots 8feet deep and hosts mycorrhizal fungi beneficial to cannabis. Yes it grows a lot. Cut it down and you have mulch
My two cents. Others may have more... hell they might even tell me how wrong I am!
Edit: I clicked on a link to all of silverbacks grow info the other day.
Link was in TychMonoliths sig so if you look him up check his sig and look through the links you might find a BUNCH of useful info. I was impressed in about 2 minutes of reading but never got much further yet... thinking it might be useful to you as a guerrilla grower..
I don't know why it wouldn't burn after so long... pretty sure your still fine to try extracting it tho....
Have you heard of "water holding crystals"? I think it's basically silica but it's a product designed to be thrown into soil to increase its water carrying capacity. I believe some outdoor growers have used them successfully in dry locations... continuing to increase organic matter in your soil will help as organics hold both water AND nutrition in the soil for later... Bio Char can also be helpful but I would only use really well "charged" and only powdered char or it may increase drainage and/or "rob" nutrition by bonding with available cations and forcing plant to "work" at getting them back rather than serving as the extra reserves for when soluble nutrition runs out... clays hold water and food as well.
SulPoMag or GreenSand are good slow release K sources.
It sounds as if adding manure, compost, peat or even sawdust to your soils could go a long way to building them up with organics... might be a good exercise for the off season? Load hole with blood meal horseshit and sawdust till it's more of the spongy texture we like and then keep it wet enough to decompose over next two months or whatever. Once it's broken down enough plant a cover crop that digs deep and tolerates drought... if the cover stays green and thriving your herb probably will too. I like Brome grass. It's a dry farming Alfalfa that's gone feral most places cattle have been. It sends roots 8feet deep and hosts mycorrhizal fungi beneficial to cannabis. Yes it grows a lot. Cut it down and you have mulch
My two cents. Others may have more... hell they might even tell me how wrong I am!
Edit: I clicked on a link to all of silverbacks grow info the other day.
Link was in TychMonoliths sig so if you look him up check his sig and look through the links you might find a BUNCH of useful info. I was impressed in about 2 minutes of reading but never got much further yet... thinking it might be useful to you as a guerrilla grower..
YukonKronic, you put it out way better than i did, kudos to you man
And while all you said is correct, if orgweed doesn't feel like doing all that work he coulds also simply topdress with beet vinasse at the onset of flowering, right after stretch end.
I recommend beet vinasse because it's cheap, efficient and organic. You can get 10 kilos of the stuff for like 30 bucks, and it goes a long way because you don't have to use more than 20 gr/square meter/one kilo of dry buds.
If ever you overuse it, it shouldn't mess that much with taste but you'll probably have a headache included with your high until the product is cured...
here is a link to a tobacco paper you might find interesting:https://www.ipipotash.org/udocs/ipi_bulletin_11_fertilizing_for_high_yield_and_quality_tobacco.pdf , there is some clues about K level in tobacco leaves and combustibility ( among other things)
And while all you said is correct, if orgweed doesn't feel like doing all that work he coulds also simply topdress with beet vinasse at the onset of flowering, right after stretch end.
I recommend beet vinasse because it's cheap, efficient and organic. You can get 10 kilos of the stuff for like 30 bucks, and it goes a long way because you don't have to use more than 20 gr/square meter/one kilo of dry buds.
If ever you overuse it, it shouldn't mess that much with taste but you'll probably have a headache included with your high until the product is cured...
here is a link to a tobacco paper you might find interesting:https://www.ipipotash.org/udocs/ipi_bulletin_11_fertilizing_for_high_yield_and_quality_tobacco.pdf , there is some clues about K level in tobacco leaves and combustibility ( among other things)
YukonKronic
Active member
YukonKronic, you put it out way better than i did, kudos to you man
And while all you said is correct, if orgweed doesn't feel like doing all that work he coulds also simply topdress with beet vinasse at the onset of flowering, right after stretch end.
I recommend beet vinasse because it's cheap, efficient and organic. You can get 10 kilos of the stuff for like 30 bucks, and it goes a long way because you don't have to use more than 20 gr/square meter/one kilo of dry buds.
If ever you overuse it, it shouldn't mess that much with taste but you'll probably have a headache included with your high until the product is cured...
here is a link to a tobacco paper you might find interesting:https://www.ipipotash.org/udocs/ipi_bulletin_11_fertilizing_for_high_yield_and_quality_tobacco.pdf , there is some clues about K level in tobacco leaves and combustibility ( among other things)
Lol I think u should listen to this guy
I'm mostly indoors so my methodology reflects it... I think Pepe prolly has better handle on it from the guerrilla perspective. Or at least more knowledge of what's available in your area! Beet vinassse? In the Yukon? What's vinasse? Lol you see where I'm coming from...
Hahaha, yukon man, i'm sorry, i got it wrong. It's not beet vinasse but beet extract; it's sold under the name "organic potash",available on amazon in my country, it comes in powder form and it's the main ingredient of the organic nutes bottles like plagron bloom and probably a few others. It contains a lot of S too which i guess is good for micro-organisms living in soil.
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Hey guys,
thanks a lot for all this information and the answer to this problem
I would not have thought that a K-deficiency has such an influence on the end product without having a big influence on flower developement.
This season I will change my water regime for shure. I mainly use comfrey and elaeagnus as mulch plants. But in a young garden it takes a while to produce enough biomass. There are also lots of different fruits, berries and vegetables...
Looking to the tobacco industry makes sense. Good link. I really like this kind of information.
thanks a lot for all this information and the answer to this problem
I would not have thought that a K-deficiency has such an influence on the end product without having a big influence on flower developement.
This season I will change my water regime for shure. I mainly use comfrey and elaeagnus as mulch plants. But in a young garden it takes a while to produce enough biomass. There are also lots of different fruits, berries and vegetables...
Looking to the tobacco industry makes sense. Good link. I really like this kind of information.
