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Anything outdoors 2020

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Are (black) ants a problem for outdoor plants in the ground?
Depends on the type of ant. Some ants are predatory, as long as they aren't chewing your roots and plants they're beneficial. However a lot of ants farm aphids, those are the ones you have to watch out for. They'll start as soon as the weather heats up. Check the underside of your leaves, you'll see aphids all over. If you see the ants crawling all over your plants that's usually what they're up to.

I've got odorous house ants, invaded my house, they're a nightmare. Nearly impossible to get rid of. They winter inside then move outside in the summer. Get into the sugar, the cat food, anything fatty or sweet. They're grease ants as opposed to sugar ants that only eat sweets. I've had to throw out honey, brown sugar, cookies, they even get in baked potatoes if you leave them on the counter for a few hours. Insidious things.

They also farm aphids, they go for the flowering plants outside. They'll make a weak attempt at infesting ganja near their food sources but they're more interested in nectar producing flowers.

Found a volunteer in the yard. It'd been ravaged by slugs. The leaves on one side and the new growing shoots were gone. I wrapped copper foil around the base of the seedling. A week later no new slug damage and there's new leaves blowing out from the nodes. It's going to be a bushy one.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
Ants are little theifs. Every year they will completely infest a few plants. They are stealing water and little pieces of amendments. It's amazing how many of them there are. Especially after i top dress. It always worries me because i know ants farm aphids, but i have never seen it.

I have one of those crank Dustinmizers that blows clouds of powder. I hit the soil with a thin layer of diotomacious earth and they disappear.
 

Big Eggy

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for all the replies regarding the ants.. I've been up there today and they don't seem to be that bad.. I've used borax on red ants in my old garden but as they had multiple queen's it was more of a case of keeping the numbers down.

I'll keep an eye on them and play nasty if I need to.. Its to early to worry about aphids here. I've noticed yellow ants in my cornish style stone wall near by where the autos will go will try the soft approach first cinnamon etc that might stop my and other local cats from digging too.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
How cold is it? If it's not close to freezing, they will do way better in a janky little hoop. Id say as long as its not under 40f.
A few pieces of pvc and some plastic. Hour project.

Whenever you grow a plant too long inside, they never do as well and they are all weird and indoorsy structured
 

big315smooth

mama tried
Veteran
might touch freezing next few night. probably throw up small g house tomorrow it will make some room on other and veggies are sprouting so that will be good
 
I got some aphids on my plants last year right around the beginning of October.

They're one thing I dreaded getting on my plants, with the nasty mess they make. So when I spotted that first shiny sheen of their excretions on a leaf then flipped a leaf over and saw those bastards I was like oh no! lol

I didn't want to spray anything on the plants that close to harvest, what I've used before on my melons is either just water from the house or a mixture of water/oil/soap and they spray off and die easily.

What I ended up doing was every morning I'd go turn over the leaves and use a painbrush to swipe them off the leaves. It was tedious, my plants weren't huge and they weren't totally infested with aphids so it didn't take too long to go over each plant. After a few days of that their numbers were down a lot.

I ended up harvesting 2 plants early because of that though...After drying/curing I was bummed that I didn't let those plants go another 10 to 14 days, because the other plants of the same strain that I let go for another 10 more days turned out soooo much more resinous. I learned something though, I always wondered how big of and what sort of difference there is between a bud harvested a little early and one closer to full ripeness (last year was only my 2nd time growing the plant). And I learned there can big a huge difference in the amount of resin/terps/potency lol.


I've spotted some ants in my fabric pots a few weeks ago, I still don't have any plants in them. I'll just have to see what comes of it.



.
 

mr.brunch

Well-known member
Veteran
Damn ants and their aphid farming... destroyed my cherry harvest and had a good go at the runner beans a few years ago.
Ever since I’ve been like a crazed prowler armed with ant powder (and slug pellets)
 

repuk

Altruistic Hazeist
Veteran
:tiphat: Organilush, that's love for THE plant!

I have had aphids before, and depending on level of infestation and time at which happened, resin production goes down the drain, and there goes potency, yield, and taste.

Fixing them depending on the stage can be difficult, I managed to by using a sugar, h2o, potash soap and some neem and got ok production, (thanks to Neiko for it!), but is always better to prevent them.

Feed/foliar your girls with neem oil / potash soap / trea tree oil (drops per L) and h2o (can look the specific recipes) preventively when they're young. Do that several times. Do it in early flower, they'll love it each time and you'll be "shielding" them against the bugs that sooner or later gonna hit them.

Neem will ensure that if something hit your plants, it won't prosper as it won't be able to reproduce.

Regarding ants, diatomaceous earth works wonders, and it's not poisonous. I use to splatter it in a circle around my pots, and sometimes over the media, zero ants.

And everything is not poisonous.
 

repuk

Altruistic Hazeist
Veteran
I know I posted an ant trap made with with rice and a plastic bottle, but cannot locate it now (thanks Golden Tiger x Panama! :biggrin:).
 

'Boogieman'

Well-known member
I'm trying to find the best way to prevent leafhoppers this year. I'm 100% positive leafhoppers spread Phytoplasma disease on a couple of my plants last year, I killed the infected plants fearing the disease would spread. I have a pump to blast my plants with diatomaceous earth but I also want to try an organic pesticide, neem oil doesn't seem to stop them so I need something else that is effective.
 

OG_NoMan

Not Veteran
I'm trying to find the best way to prevent leafhoppers this year. I'm 100% positive leafhoppers spread Phytoplasma disease on a couple of my plants last year, I killed the infected plants fearing the disease would spread. I have a pump to blast my plants with diatomaceous earth but I also want to try an organic pesticide, neem oil doesn't seem to stop them so I need something else that is effective.

I don't know the best way but this should help. It says it controls leaf hoppers and it's organic :tiphat:

https://www.montereylawngarden.com/product/monterey-garden-insect-spray-rtu/
 

radioman

Active member
I'm sorta getting a late start this year but not really. I just started a half flat (36 cells). I just took them out of the humidity dome & heat mat. I put them under CFL's in my growing chamber next to a 400 watt Hydrofarm MH (Hydrofarm bulb too). Yes, I still have my small winter grow going - they have been 12/12 for 13 weeks now. I have 1 very Sativa-ish pheno plant that doesn't seem to want to finish - the other ones - are pretty much done & should be picked very soon (Blue Kush is the Strain)...
Back to outside growing - I am going to stagger start this year rather than start too many at once & be overwhelmed with young plants. The last 2 years I have been sexing them before putting them out. This year I plan on doing the same but I would also like to put out some unsexed plants too if I can. Actually what has held Me back from an early start is the Ticks. The Tick infestation here in Vermont is terrible. The month of May seems to be the worst time for them. So I'm going to hold off & get my plants in a little later this year. Besides - the weather this year has also been Cold. Today was 46 degrees F with Frost predicted for tonight & snow predicted for Friday night. Anyway at least now I got some seedlings up. Stay Safe & Healthy Everyone...
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
I'm trying to find the best way to prevent leafhoppers this year. I'm 100% positive leafhoppers spread Phytoplasma disease on a couple of my plants last year, I killed the infected plants fearing the disease would spread. I have a pump to blast my plants with diatomaceous earth but I also want to try an organic pesticide, neem oil doesn't seem to stop them so I need something else that is effective.

What about covering It in floating row cover like agribon ag-15. Its a breathable fabric that is so light it can just sit on the plant. They call It a "floating" row cover. Farmers use It to keep bugs off fruit and vegies. Even spider mites can't get through It. Its cheap.
People here mostly use It on hoops to obscure view. You can't see what's inside unless a leaf is touching It.
 

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
I'm trying to find the best way to prevent leafhoppers this year. I'm 100% positive leafhoppers spread Phytoplasma disease on a couple of my plants last year, I killed the infected plants fearing the disease would spread. I have a pump to blast my plants with diatomaceous earth but I also want to try an organic pesticide, neem oil doesn't seem to stop them so I need something else that is effective.

Maybe green lacewings? A predatory bug
 

'Boogieman'

Well-known member
What about covering It in floating row cover like agribon ag-15. Its a breathable fabric that is so light it can just sit on the plant. They call It a "floating" row cover. Farmers use It to keep bugs off fruit and vegies. Even spider mites can't get through It. Its cheap.
People here mostly use It on hoops to obscure view. You can't see what's inside unless a leaf is touching It.

I'm guerilla growing and afraid it would stand out, looks like a great idea for someone doing a backyard grow.
 

Sunshineinabag

Active member
How cold is it? If it's not close to freezing, they will do way better in a janky little hoop. Id say as long as its not under 40f.
A few pieces of pvc and some plastic. Hour project.

Whenever you grow a plant too long inside, they never do as well and they are all weird and indoorsy structured

those damn indoorsy structures.....make me wanna plant twice as much




had a dream i had created a cannabis cultivar that had "pitcher plants" on the lower brachts.....eating their pests...turning them into food....:peacock:
 

repuk

Altruistic Hazeist
Veteran
Ok I found it, copying the post here:


Diatomaceous Earth is super effective with ants, I sprinkle it generously around the ant trails, colony entries, etc.

If you have a big colony, there's another non-toxic thing that works wonders to really force them to move away: rice.

You need the cheapest kind of rice you could find, the most crudest, starchy, humidity hungry the better, and a small plastic water bottle.

Depending on the ants and rice grain size, you can leave grains as they are or grind them with a kitchen mortar or a couple stones, the idea is making easy for the ants to haul the most of the rice inside their colony the faster the better.

Important: use gloves all the time. If you handle it with your hands ants will "smell" you and will unlikely fetch the rice.

Fill the empty water bottle with rice.

Put a clothes peg on the water bottle mouth.

attachment.php


Prop the bottle upside down on the ground, so that as ants haul rice, it will "auto feed" rice to them by gravity. Make sure it won't fell, use stones to prop it (wear gloves all the time)

attachment.php


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How it works:

Most ants feed from a fungus culture they have inside their colonies, and need proper RH to keep them, and to keep their food reserves edible.

The moment they bring rice inside, the starch in rice grains will fetch all moisture available, making their cultures to die, and then forcing them to leave elsewhere, or controlling drastically their population.

This is specially effective with leafcutter ants, which exclusively feed from fungus culture over leaf matter, but same goes for aphid farming ants, they bring aphid excretions (molasses) to their colonies to feed the fungus.

Also effective even with ants not relying so much in fungus, as whatever food they bring will be ruined by the lack of humidity, or even worse, if rice ferments inside the colony will become toxic for the ants.

Original video, from a popular Spanish Youtuber is of course in Spanish https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwXR3Tu3BNU but really worth a watch, really nice macro shooting, and great for "how to stage" the bottle.

Tips:

Is it important to place the bottle on a covered spot if there are rains, is it important for the rice to be dry. They also prefer shaded spots, ants won't work with intense heat and will favour a food source in the shade.

Around 8:00 he shows how to strategically sprinkle DE around colony entries.
 

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