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Alternative To Fox Farm Soil

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
The main ingredient in Fox Farms is composted forest humus which has a pH of around neutral 7. The added amendments drop the pH lower when pure water is added to the growing media. If you overwater, you can burn the plants from a too low of a pH or if you add their fertilizer too early. As time goes by,(4 to 6 weeks) the organic amendments will be depleted and the pH will start to rise back to 7. That's when you add fertilizer to Fox Farms and that will drop the pH back to a suitable range. Fox Farms is a super mix unless given bad water management. 😎

I think this is what is happening to me. When I buy the Happy Frog it is so wet it's like a brick. I transplanted some autos from #1 nursery pots to #7 pots and the Happy frog was so wet, I couldn't water them for almost 2 weeks. After 5 or 6 days, the plants started showing signs of pH issues. Rotting leaves. Spots of crust. Standard pH stuff. Still, the soil was too wet to water.

I moved them from #1 to #7 in week 4. They are in week 11 and not showing many signs of maturing. Growth has slowed way way down after the transplant. Plants are tiny and stunted. In that entire 6 weeks after transplanting they only got 4 cups of water (each). Less than a cup per week and no nutes.

I finally got frustrated and started trying to dry them out with fans and such but it just too late. Autos are so non forgiving.

In a separate issue I started some seeds in some Frog in another room and after about a week of good healthy growth, some leaves are now showing crusty signs. I have started seeds in Frog a zillion times and never had this issue.

I always pH check my water and/or nutes before using. My water is about 7.8 from the tap and I use a little pH down to take it to 7.0. When I do nutes, the nutes usually take the pH down to about 6.3 to 6.5. At 6.3 or lower I use a little base to bring it back up to about 6.5.

I may switch to Promix. I have been using Happy Frog for over 10 years and always loved it but since I moved to SoCal I have had all kinds of issues. Maybe it's the new water and the way it reacts with the Frog or maybe Fox Farms changed their formula but whatever it is, it has to stop. I have had 6 or 7 shitty grows in a row because of this issue.

I poured out the last 2 bags of Frog and I have it drying on the floor in my garage. It has been drying for over a week and is still very damp. And, let's remember that I live in the desert with 20% humidity. You would think it would dry faster than this.

I am getting ready to put more plants from #1 to #7 and I am really hesitant to use the Frog again.. I understand the ProMix has no nutes and is just blank medium. If that is true, I might go that route and use more nutes to compensate.

I am like you @Creeperpark about using only water for the first 4 weeks or so. The Frog always carried the plants that far. Then, I start using the Fox Farms nute trio at about half the recommended strength.

Just lately, I bought some Fish Emulsion and some seaweed (Neptune's Harvest). And, my supplier gave me a sample of some bloom booster from Humboldt County Nutes. I am back to growing photoperiod plants and I am great in the veg stage but after a few weeks in flowering, I get a lot of yellowing and leaf drop so I am going to try boosting and amending during the flowering period to see if I can help the yellowing issue.

I am dealing with a lot of new issues since I moved like different temps and humidity levels but this pH issue is the one that's killing me. I may try the Frog one more time since I have 4 or 5 bags in the garage but I am going to dry it super dry before using it and then I can bring the moisture level up the way I want to instead of trying to dry everything out after planting.

Thanks for the tip, Creeper. I try drying the dirt next time and see how it goes.

If the dirt gets too dry will the beneficial bacteria in the soil die?
 

Redrum92

Well-known member
I think this is what is happening to me. When I buy the Happy Frog it is so wet it's like a brick. I transplanted some autos from #1 nursery pots to #7 pots and the Happy frog was so wet, I couldn't water them for almost 2 weeks. After 5 or 6 days, the plants started showing signs of pH issues. Rotting leaves. Spots of crust. Standard pH stuff. Still, the soil was too wet to water.

I moved them from #1 to #7 in week 4. They are in week 11 and not showing many signs of maturing. Growth has slowed way way down after the transplant. Plants are tiny and stunted. In that entire 6 weeks after transplanting they only got 4 cups of water (each). Less than a cup per week and no nutes.

I finally got frustrated and started trying to dry them out with fans and such but it just too late. Autos are so non forgiving.

In a separate issue I started some seeds in some Frog in another room and after about a week of good healthy growth, some leaves are now showing crusty signs. I have started seeds in Frog a zillion times and never had this issue.

I always pH check my water and/or nutes before using. My water is about 7.8 from the tap and I use a little pH down to take it to 7.0. When I do nutes, the nutes usually take the pH down to about 6.3 to 6.5. At 6.3 or lower I use a little base to bring it back up to about 6.5.

I may switch to Promix. I have been using Happy Frog for over 10 years and always loved it but since I moved to SoCal I have had all kinds of issues. Maybe it's the new water and the way it reacts with the Frog or maybe Fox Farms changed their formula but whatever it is, it has to stop. I have had 6 or 7 shitty grows in a row because of this issue.

I poured out the last 2 bags of Frog and I have it drying on the floor in my garage. It has been drying for over a week and is still very damp. And, let's remember that I live in the desert with 20% humidity. You would think it would dry faster than this.

I am getting ready to put more plants from #1 to #7 and I am really hesitant to use the Frog again.. I understand the ProMix has no nutes and is just blank medium. If that is true, I might go that route and use more nutes to compensate.

I am like you @Creeperpark about using only water for the first 4 weeks or so. The Frog always carried the plants that far. Then, I start using the Fox Farms nute trio at about half the recommended strength.

Just lately, I bought some Fish Emulsion and some seaweed (Neptune's Harvest). And, my supplier gave me a sample of some bloom booster from Humboldt County Nutes. I am back to growing photoperiod plants and I am great in the veg stage but after a few weeks in flowering, I get a lot of yellowing and leaf drop so I am going to try boosting and amending during the flowering period to see if I can help the yellowing issue.

I am dealing with a lot of new issues since I moved like different temps and humidity levels but this pH issue is the one that's killing me. I may try the Frog one more time since I have 4 or 5 bags in the garage but I am going to dry it super dry before using it and then I can bring the moisture level up the way I want to instead of trying to dry everything out after planting.

Thanks for the tip, Creeper. I try drying the dirt next time and see how it goes.

If the dirt gets too dry will the beneficial bacteria in the soil die?
Man, that sucks. No fun struggling with improperly stored soil. Is it possible to find another source/vendor for the Happy Frog? I've found different sources make a big difference despite it being the "same" product/brand, as the storage method/timeline/environment makes a big difference.

I would imagine that yes, letting it get bone dry would kill the (beneficial or not) bacteria and fungus, but many are good at reviving themselves once they are given water again. Also, if soil is too wet for too long, it can throw the balance of these, and let bacteria/fungus grow in a way that was not intended, possibly being colonized by something detrimental to plant health. I've gotten the occasional bags of both Happy Frog and Ocean Forest that reek of mildew here and there.
 

53grayeyes

Active member
Since you mentioned So. Cal I thought I may let you know that our water is very very hard. I used to keep fish from Lake Tanganyika. The ph there is between 8.5 and 9. Our water here, and I tested it continually usually hits 8.2 so to grow with it you have to soften it. I use a tablespoon to a tablespoon and a half of white store bought vinegar per gallon which lowers it into the 6 range.

With FFOF I have used this since I started. It was fine when I was growing hybrids. I have never thrown away any of the soil. Now I add to it, wood ash, charcoal, at times epsom salts in the water, worm castings or gunk out of the worm bed with worms. Before with the hybrids they need some extra nitrogen but growing landraces they hate that stuff. I have about 36 gallons of soil that I put on a garbage bag and mix with whatever I think it needs. No burning ever from the soil. Days over 100 degrees are a different story.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
My tap water is close to 8 pH and I use General Hydroponics pH down which is phosphoric acid, I think to bring it down to about 7.0

I use a standard RV water filter on my tap and I fill 1 gallon jugs which sit for a couple days before use to dis some of the chlorine.

I just used my BlueLab pH/combo meter to measure the water and it was at 120 ppm. So that is not too terrible bad but still on the highest end of moderately hard.

I don't recall what it was back in why oh why Ohio before I moved. I am near Palm Springs, now.

After lowering the pH, it still measures 120 ppm. Is that normal?

Ever since I have been here in SoCal and having these issues, I have always held the water as the prime suspect. I looked at RO systems but I read some bad about RO water so until I know more, I'll keep going with this water.

Creeper is spot on with the issue being more prominent with overwatering. I am just keeping thing dryer for now to see what happens.

I am just bummed about another crop failure. I probably wont get 8 ounces out of these 7 plants and that isn't even worth the time.

Live and learn.

Thanks
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
If your FFOF or FFHF is a little hot just flush it a tiny bit. When you fill a pot with new soil, water it until the runoff isn't so dark brown. I'm not saying totally flush it, it just takes abit to get the water from dark brown to lighter. That's what I've done when using FFOF.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
Friend you have to watch out when watering Happy Frog. Every time you water you release some of the salts. If you water too often you will burn the hell out of your plants. I let my soil dry a little extra between waterings. When I germinate seeds in Happy Frog or Ocean Forest, I plant them in Dixie cups and weigh the cups before watering to keep from burning my sprouts. If I can grow sprouts you can grow plants in the same mix.

Happy Frog is an amended mix; coco is soilless and two completely different types of substrate. Happy Frog is a water-only mix and coco has to be fertilized. Instead of mixing the two, I would work on water management fertigation with just one.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If your FFOF or FFHF is a little hot just flush it a tiny bit. When you fill a pot with new soil, water it until the runoff isn't so dark brown. I'm not saying totally flush it, it just takes abit to get the water from dark brown to lighter. That's what I've done when using FFOF.
IF you flush out the good stuff the mix won't be able to feed the plants for very long. Don't overwater Fox Farms potting mixes, and let the soil dry between waterings a little extra and it will not burn your plants.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
First we must think peat is considered "soil less" media (What are we trying to accomplish with the system?)
Seed starting is best done in a seedling mix (earth worm castings dont burn)

Any thing with added nutrients we must make sure its completed the nitrification cycle this prevents "burn"
Many times we experience a seedling fungal infection and its not burn its called dampening off

Walmart seed starting jiffy mix is excellent
Pro Mix BX only has enough nutrient to start a seedling (requires feeding or amendments blood/bone etc)
Promix is IMO inferior to jiffy mix for starting cannabis seed
Amended substrates must be wet and aged atleast 30 days

Changing that mix also changes the "soil" properties
Promix is a good base mix use with 20-50% compost for juvenile thru adult plants

Now are we gonna feed or super soil for the adult run ?
BIG question there is it organic, hydro or a hybrid system ?
  • #1 < countless hours spent on this same topic, hope it saves you some time
🍿 🪑
 
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eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
I feel like you have to mix your own soil if you want to ensure consistency. Fox Farm has really gotten bad over the years. Roots is the same.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
IF you flush out the good stuff the mix won't be able to feed the plants for very long. Don't overwater Fox Farms potting mixes, and let the soil dry between waterings a little extra and it will not burn your plants.
I know you don't want to flush it all out. But if your FFOF is extra hot it works fine. You just need to feed sooner.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
It's kind of funny how I did things the same way for so long back in why oh why Ohio and now that my grow environment has changed, I am encountering all kinds of new issues. Kind of fun in a pain-in-the-ass kind of way. LOL I think the Midwest and the SoCal desert are about as opposite as it gets. LOL

I guess it's time for some side by side tests.

I have 8 nice skunk plants ready for transplant from #1 to #7 nursery pots. I will do 4 of them like I have always done.... pure Happy Frog. I'll do the other 4 in a 50/50 mix of Frog and coco. I'll keep 2 separate logs as I always do since I usually have 3 or 4 separate grows going on at once. I always keep logs of when and how much I water and how much of what mix of nutes they get. They will be in the #7 pots for 3 weeks and then they go into the flower room. I am curious how much different their watering and nutrient needs will be.

I also have 6 of the same skunk that are going outside Jan 1st so I may experiment a little with those plants as well.

On a side note, the supplier where I buy my Frog said that he had 2 or 3 other customers that stopped buying Frog because they were having issues. He told me he didn't really listen to specifics but he definitely said they were bitching about it.

Thanks again for the input. I appreciate it.
 
Im looking for a good alternative bag soil that is available online ready to use. Ive been using FFOF since I started growing but the quality has suffered. Im getting fed up with my seedlings getting burned and weird insect invasions. If anyone knows of a better source for soil then please share. I dont mind paying a little more

I've had the same problem with Fox farm soils, bugs. So far only fungus gnats but almost all soil sold in my area has pests. BTI easily gets rid of fungus gnats, but I'm paranoid that something worse is lurking in the soil..

Beyond using BTI for fungus gnats, I also boil the soil before using. Basically add boiling water, bake and drain once it hits 180 degrees. This will kill all fungus gnats, etc....

A lot of people have problems with seedlings and FFOF. In fact many mix it with light warrior or happy frog to help with seedling burn... Starting seedlings in FFOF can work, but many have problems...
 
You are over-watering the Fox Farms potting mix. The problem with Fox Farms is if you overwater the Fox Farms you will burn the roots from the nutrients being released from the water. I've used Fox Farms many times with water only and had super results. Weigh your cups before and after you water to keep from overwatering. Here are some photos of Ocean Forest plants given water only. View attachment 18712356
Roots Organic is an alternative to Fox Farms and a good mix for organic grow. However, if you overwater Roots Organic you will burn the plant too. 😎

View attachment 18712353 View attachment 18712354 View attachment 18712355

This is useful information ! I'm wondering if watering to 20% runoff is a bad idea with this soil, maybe its too much water at one time... Next grow, I'll try watering less to see if there is improvement. My only reason for watering heavily is to reduce salt buildup---I'm still unsure if this is the way to go, I'd like to use less water.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
Well, my 'side-by-side' tests are giving proven results...... unfortunately.

Fucking Frog.

First pic was the day they were transplanted. The 4 on the right are 100% Happy Frog. The 4 on the left are 50/50 Frog and my coco blend.

2024-12-13 19.05.44.jpg


Second pic is 8 days later. All is still pretty good. Pay no attention to those 3 plants in the front. They are temporary. :) The 8 plants being tested re all inside the tent.

2024-12-21 08.57.08.jpg


The remaining 6 pics were just taken. Only 5 days later they are showing the same signs of burn. It fucking happened almost overnight. Started 3 or 4 days ago.

The plants are now only 14 days from transplanting. In that 14 days they got watered only 3 times. First in the day of transplant, each pot got only 1 cup (8 oz) of plain water (pH 7.0).

5 days later, they were starting to show wilt so I gave them a nice 3 to 4 cups of plain water. Yesterday (7 days later) they started to wilt again so I gave them 3 or 4 cups plain again.

That schedule is NOT over watering by anyone's book. LOL

The 4 plants with a 50/50 mix are doing just fine. It has to be my local water in combination with the Frog. I have been using it for 10 years and never had this issue until I moved to SoCal.

Not sure what I am going to do to resolve this but the plants go into the flowering room in about a week so they better get their mind right before then. LOL

Thanks again for all the help and input you have all provided. I will keep the thread updated in the weeks to come.


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mudballs

Well-known member
Veteran
This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times
keep soil from after a grow and use that for seedlings, it has just enough residual to get a seedling going without burning until transplant
@Ringodoggie
Do you  buffer the coco before mixing at 50/50? Even if it says 'pre-buffered' it really isn't enough...i fear the coco cation exchange is acting negatively on the soil part of the 50/50
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times
keep soil from after a grow and use that for seedlings, it has just enough residual to get a seedling going without burning until transplant
@Ringodoggie
Do you  buffer the coco before mixing at 50/50? Even if it says 'pre-buffered' it really isn't enough...i fear the coco cation exchange is acting negatively on the soil part of the 50/50

The plants that are 50/50 are doing awesome with no problems. Only the 100% Frog is burning.

Perhaps I misunderstood what you were trying to say.
 
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