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Alternative To Fox Farm Soil

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
The main ingredient in Fox Farms is composted forest humus which has a pH of around neutral 7. The added amendments drop the pH lower when pure water is added to the growing media. If you overwater, you can burn the plants from a too low of a pH or if you add their fertilizer too early. As time goes by,(4 to 6 weeks) the organic amendments will be depleted and the pH will start to rise back to 7. That's when you add fertilizer to Fox Farms and that will drop the pH back to a suitable range. Fox Farms is a super mix unless given bad water management. 😎

I think this is what is happening to me. When I buy the Happy Frog it is so wet it's like a brick. I transplanted some autos from #1 nursery pots to #7 pots and the Happy frog was so wet, I couldn't water them for almost 2 weeks. After 5 or 6 days, the plants started showing signs of pH issues. Rotting leaves. Spots of crust. Standard pH stuff. Still, the soil was too wet to water.

I moved them from #1 to #7 in week 4. They are in week 11 and not showing many signs of maturing. Growth has slowed way way down after the transplant. Plants are tiny and stunted. In that entire 6 weeks after transplanting they only got 4 cups of water (each). Less than a cup per week and no nutes.

I finally got frustrated and started trying to dry them out with fans and such but it just too late. Autos are so non forgiving.

In a separate issue I started some seeds in some Frog in another room and after about a week of good healthy growth, some leaves are now showing crusty signs. I have started seeds in Frog a zillion times and never had this issue.

I always pH check my water and/or nutes before using. My water is about 7.8 from the tap and I use a little pH down to take it to 7.0. When I do nutes, the nutes usually take the pH down to about 6.3 to 6.5. At 6.3 or lower I use a little base to bring it back up to about 6.5.

I may switch to Promix. I have been using Happy Frog for over 10 years and always loved it but since I moved to SoCal I have had all kinds of issues. Maybe it's the new water and the way it reacts with the Frog or maybe Fox Farms changed their formula but whatever it is, it has to stop. I have had 6 or 7 shitty grows in a row because of this issue.

I poured out the last 2 bags of Frog and I have it drying on the floor in my garage. It has been drying for over a week and is still very damp. And, let's remember that I live in the desert with 20% humidity. You would think it would dry faster than this.

I am getting ready to put more plants from #1 to #7 and I am really hesitant to use the Frog again.. I understand the ProMix has no nutes and is just blank medium. If that is true, I might go that route and use more nutes to compensate.

I am like you @Creeperpark about using only water for the first 4 weeks or so. The Frog always carried the plants that far. Then, I start using the Fox Farms nute trio at about half the recommended strength.

Just lately, I bought some Fish Emulsion and some seaweed (Neptune's Harvest). And, my supplier gave me a sample of some bloom booster from Humboldt County Nutes. I am back to growing photoperiod plants and I am great in the veg stage but after a few weeks in flowering, I get a lot of yellowing and leaf drop so I am going to try boosting and amending during the flowering period to see if I can help the yellowing issue.

I am dealing with a lot of new issues since I moved like different temps and humidity levels but this pH issue is the one that's killing me. I may try the Frog one more time since I have 4 or 5 bags in the garage but I am going to dry it super dry before using it and then I can bring the moisture level up the way I want to instead of trying to dry everything out after planting.

Thanks for the tip, Creeper. I try drying the dirt next time and see how it goes.

If the dirt gets too dry will the beneficial bacteria in the soil die?
 

Redrum92

Well-known member
I think this is what is happening to me. When I buy the Happy Frog it is so wet it's like a brick. I transplanted some autos from #1 nursery pots to #7 pots and the Happy frog was so wet, I couldn't water them for almost 2 weeks. After 5 or 6 days, the plants started showing signs of pH issues. Rotting leaves. Spots of crust. Standard pH stuff. Still, the soil was too wet to water.

I moved them from #1 to #7 in week 4. They are in week 11 and not showing many signs of maturing. Growth has slowed way way down after the transplant. Plants are tiny and stunted. In that entire 6 weeks after transplanting they only got 4 cups of water (each). Less than a cup per week and no nutes.

I finally got frustrated and started trying to dry them out with fans and such but it just too late. Autos are so non forgiving.

In a separate issue I started some seeds in some Frog in another room and after about a week of good healthy growth, some leaves are now showing crusty signs. I have started seeds in Frog a zillion times and never had this issue.

I always pH check my water and/or nutes before using. My water is about 7.8 from the tap and I use a little pH down to take it to 7.0. When I do nutes, the nutes usually take the pH down to about 6.3 to 6.5. At 6.3 or lower I use a little base to bring it back up to about 6.5.

I may switch to Promix. I have been using Happy Frog for over 10 years and always loved it but since I moved to SoCal I have had all kinds of issues. Maybe it's the new water and the way it reacts with the Frog or maybe Fox Farms changed their formula but whatever it is, it has to stop. I have had 6 or 7 shitty grows in a row because of this issue.

I poured out the last 2 bags of Frog and I have it drying on the floor in my garage. It has been drying for over a week and is still very damp. And, let's remember that I live in the desert with 20% humidity. You would think it would dry faster than this.

I am getting ready to put more plants from #1 to #7 and I am really hesitant to use the Frog again.. I understand the ProMix has no nutes and is just blank medium. If that is true, I might go that route and use more nutes to compensate.

I am like you @Creeperpark about using only water for the first 4 weeks or so. The Frog always carried the plants that far. Then, I start using the Fox Farms nute trio at about half the recommended strength.

Just lately, I bought some Fish Emulsion and some seaweed (Neptune's Harvest). And, my supplier gave me a sample of some bloom booster from Humboldt County Nutes. I am back to growing photoperiod plants and I am great in the veg stage but after a few weeks in flowering, I get a lot of yellowing and leaf drop so I am going to try boosting and amending during the flowering period to see if I can help the yellowing issue.

I am dealing with a lot of new issues since I moved like different temps and humidity levels but this pH issue is the one that's killing me. I may try the Frog one more time since I have 4 or 5 bags in the garage but I am going to dry it super dry before using it and then I can bring the moisture level up the way I want to instead of trying to dry everything out after planting.

Thanks for the tip, Creeper. I try drying the dirt next time and see how it goes.

If the dirt gets too dry will the beneficial bacteria in the soil die?
Man, that sucks. No fun struggling with improperly stored soil. Is it possible to find another source/vendor for the Happy Frog? I've found different sources make a big difference despite it being the "same" product/brand, as the storage method/timeline/environment makes a big difference.

I would imagine that yes, letting it get bone dry would kill the (beneficial or not) bacteria and fungus, but many are good at reviving themselves once they are given water again. Also, if soil is too wet for too long, it can throw the balance of these, and let bacteria/fungus grow in a way that was not intended, possibly being colonized by something detrimental to plant health. I've gotten the occasional bags of both Happy Frog and Ocean Forest that reek of mildew here and there.
 

53grayeyes

Active member
Since you mentioned So. Cal I thought I may let you know that our water is very very hard. I used to keep fish from Lake Tanganyika. The ph there is between 8.5 and 9. Our water here, and I tested it continually usually hits 8.2 so to grow with it you have to soften it. I use a tablespoon to a tablespoon and a half of white store bought vinegar per gallon which lowers it into the 6 range.

With FFOF I have used this since I started. It was fine when I was growing hybrids. I have never thrown away any of the soil. Now I add to it, wood ash, charcoal, at times epsom salts in the water, worm castings or gunk out of the worm bed with worms. Before with the hybrids they need some extra nitrogen but growing landraces they hate that stuff. I have about 36 gallons of soil that I put on a garbage bag and mix with whatever I think it needs. No burning ever from the soil. Days over 100 degrees are a different story.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
My tap water is close to 8 pH and I use General Hydroponics pH down which is phosphoric acid, I think to bring it down to about 7.0

I use a standard RV water filter on my tap and I fill 1 gallon jugs which sit for a couple days before use to dis some of the chlorine.

I just used my BlueLab pH/combo meter to measure the water and it was at 120 ppm. So that is not too terrible bad but still on the highest end of moderately hard.

I don't recall what it was back in why oh why Ohio before I moved. I am near Palm Springs, now.

After lowering the pH, it still measures 120 ppm. Is that normal?

Ever since I have been here in SoCal and having these issues, I have always held the water as the prime suspect. I looked at RO systems but I read some bad about RO water so until I know more, I'll keep going with this water.

Creeper is spot on with the issue being more prominent with overwatering. I am just keeping thing dryer for now to see what happens.

I am just bummed about another crop failure. I probably wont get 8 ounces out of these 7 plants and that isn't even worth the time.

Live and learn.

Thanks
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
If your FFOF or FFHF is a little hot just flush it a tiny bit. When you fill a pot with new soil, water it until the runoff isn't so dark brown. I'm not saying totally flush it, it just takes abit to get the water from dark brown to lighter. That's what I've done when using FFOF.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
@Creeperpark , sorry to bother you bud but you seem to be the resident expert on Happy Frog. :)

I am going to do a 50/50 mix of Happy Frog and coco. The coco is called Royal Gold Turpur. Here is what it says it is...

Royal Gold Tupur, pronounced (two-per), was designed with the idea feeding your plant as much and often as possible. Though not your typical 70/30 coco perlite blend, it is a blank slate to create your own high performance feeding regimen. As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires feeding with high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential. With an astounding balance of oxygen and water holding capacities, Tupur can be watered up to 1-6 times a day! This makes it an ideal choice for automated watering systems, especially drip (drain to waste or recirculating), Ebb and Flow. Even deep water culture, and aquaponics thrive in this unique and versatile blend. Yet it still excels in hand watered container gardens, with natural OR conventional feeding programs. This versatility has been key in Tupur quickly becoming a household name for cultivation experts and enthusiasts from coast to coast. Still traditionally packaged in 2 cubic foot bags, yet priced to compete with 1.5 cubic foot bagged products, Tupur can give you that extra bang for your buck, in more ways than one! Are you getting Tupur?

INGREDIENTS: coco fiber, aged forest materials, perlite, basalt


I simply HAVE to do something. This Happy Frog right out of the bag is burning everything I have. I have started seeds in Happy frog a zillion times. Now, the sprouts are all burnt. So are some autos I have going and even my skunk clones are showing some signs. I have followed your advice with very light water and no nutes and it's still killing me.

On another note, I have 8 skunk currently in week 6 of flower and they are doing awesome. All 8 are in solid Frog and have been since cloning. WTF?

Anyway, I plan to do a 50/50 of this and the Frog.

Do you see anything screaming wrong with mixing coco and Frog?

Thanks bud. I owe ya a beer. :)
Friend you have to watch out when watering Happy Frog. Every time you water you release some of the salts. If you water too often you will burn the hell out of your plants. I let my soil dry a little extra between waterings. When I germinate seeds in Happy Frog or Ocean Forest, I plant them in Dixie cups and weigh the cups before watering to keep from burning my sprouts. If I can grow sprouts you can grow plants in the same mix.

Happy Frog is an amended mix; coco is soilless and two completely different types of substrate. Happy Frog is a water-only mix and coco has to be fertilized. Instead of mixing the two, I would work on water management fertigation with just one.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If your FFOF or FFHF is a little hot just flush it a tiny bit. When you fill a pot with new soil, water it until the runoff isn't so dark brown. I'm not saying totally flush it, it just takes abit to get the water from dark brown to lighter. That's what I've done when using FFOF.
IF you flush out the good stuff the mix won't be able to feed the plants for very long. Don't overwater Fox Farms potting mixes, and let the soil dry between waterings a little extra and it will not burn your plants.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
First we must think peat is considered "soil less" media (What are we trying to accomplish with the system?)
Seed starting is best done in a seedling mix (earth worm castings dont burn)

Any thing with added nutrients we must make sure its completed the nitrification cycle this prevents "burn"
Many times we experience a seedling fungal infection and its not burn its called dampening off

Walmart seed starting jiffy mix is excellent
Pro Mix BX only has enough nutrient to start a seedling (requires feeding or amendments blood/bone etc)
Promix is IMO inferior to jiffy mix for starting cannabis seed
Amended substrates must be wet and aged atleast 30 days

Changing that mix also changes the "soil" properties
Promix is a good base mix use with 20-50% compost for juvenile thru adult plants

Now are we gonna feed or super soil for the adult run ?
BIG question there is it organic, hydro or a hybrid system ?
  • #1 < countless hours spent on this same topic, hope it saves you some time
🍿 🪑
 
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eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
I feel like you have to mix your own soil if you want to ensure consistency. Fox Farm has really gotten bad over the years. Roots is the same.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
IF you flush out the good stuff the mix won't be able to feed the plants for very long. Don't overwater Fox Farms potting mixes, and let the soil dry between waterings a little extra and it will not burn your plants.
I know you don't want to flush it all out. But if your FFOF is extra hot it works fine. You just need to feed sooner.
 
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