After 6 years, it begins.. Nirvana White Rhino, Widow & Mazar - 400W CMH
K
KMK0420
dont you need like a whole other setup to clone? i have no idea how to clone. i thought you gotta chop her to get the buds? i never really learned about cloning.
K
KMK0420
will def leave cloning for other grows... but here's a more serious question.
i'm assuming lots of people LST / top their plants. i'm thinking of LST'ing, but i'm wondering if it's necessary to top/fim, etc. i want a GOOD harvest, best i can get, but i'm willing to make a sacrifice if it means risking the plant all together. and don't you have to sex before you LST,top, etc.?
i'm assuming lots of people LST / top their plants. i'm thinking of LST'ing, but i'm wondering if it's necessary to top/fim, etc. i want a GOOD harvest, best i can get, but i'm willing to make a sacrifice if it means risking the plant all together. and don't you have to sex before you LST,top, etc.?
No it is not necessary to top/FIM the plant for LST but if you ask me it is better if you do it. Then you have more branches to train and the result is bushy plant. Perfect method for SCROG.
You might find this one useful: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=115377
Stay safe
In the summer you can clone in a window. I've been using a north side window shaded by trees. Clones don't need that much light to root. Other than a window all you need now are some rapid rooter plugs and a humidity dome.
I'll share my experiences on this. Every plant I've grown out (flowered) has been LSTed and none of them have been topped. The moms I have do get cut back (topped) regularly though so that I can keep them in small containers.
What I've noticed is that topping plant sets plants back (stunts their growth) quit a bit, but that LST doesn't. If you just want to get the biggest bushiest plant possible in the least amount of time, str8 LST is the way to go. There might be times when you want to hold a plant back and at the same time enhance its structure (shape) along certain dimensions, for example when you want to clear space your flower area. In these cases topping would be good. LSTed plants tend to have sort of a triangle shape when viewed from the top, tapering in from what was the bottom toward the main growth shoot-top. If you top your plants then train them you can get more of a diamond shape as you will have two main stems.
The most common reason to LST is to even out your canopy and keep plants more compact so that you have multiple tops receiving more or less equal amounts of light. If you are vegging under an HID the benefits of tying the plant down early are not great as you have plenty of light penetration with erect plants. This said, they do take a little bit of time to change their growth pattern in response to being bent. For this reason, you want to give them at least 1 week of being bent over before you flower. When I just had the HID I would do the 2nd transplant and bend them over. Sometimes I would flower them after a week and sometimes I would transplant again. Now that I have the T5 which has really good spectrum light, but not as much power, I bend them over a few days after the second transplant.
I've never tried FIMing, but it seems like a cool technique and is reported to set plants back a lot less than topping them.
This is a picture of the two female Island Sweet Skunk Plants I transplanted into 4" squares on the 12th (at about a month old) and bent over on the 13th. The picture is from the 13th. If you look at the the leafs are turned down and there are branch buds, but no branches. The next day the leafs turned up and now multiple branches are growing up, the longest of which are about 1.5". The main tips continue to grow, but not at the pace they would if the plant wasn't tied down as more of the growth is concentrated into the branches.
K
KMK0420
update:
considering feeding some of the few that are drooping, as its been close to a week after transplanting...theyve been watered...let to dry out..still drooping. the mazar's i have seem to love nutes...i feed the one in the styrofoam cup the floranova grow and it loves it..
Day 21 (end of week 3 from seed)
considering feeding some of the few that are drooping, as its been close to a week after transplanting...theyve been watered...let to dry out..still drooping. the mazar's i have seem to love nutes...i feed the one in the styrofoam cup the floranova grow and it loves it..
Day 21 (end of week 3 from seed)
K
KMK0420
Seedling stage over - check
Bring on the veg stage - roger
Are those the pots your flowering in? How big are those? I went with 3 gal pots... can only fit 9 in the tent at once
Haha damn right! Took long enough..lol. By what i saw, i should be able to sex by the end of this week or next. This week i may start feeding some nutes too, depending. Don't know if the FFOF has enough or how long it's nutes last..
They are in 6x6x9 inch pots i believe. whatever that calculates out to be...
In about 2-4 more weeks, i'll move to the final pots..
final pots (which on the site i ordered from) are described as 8.5x8.5x10, 10 liters, or 2.6 gallons. upon measuring, they are 10x10x10in pots, so closer to 3 Gal's.
I haven't fed them anything at this point, been relying mostly on the soil for that....Pine, if you have any input on this (Feeding), lmk.
I plan on only having ~6 females at most (6 pots), less the better cause that will give me more room to LST, etc... but i hope i didn't luck out and get myself like 9 females...chances of that are slim to none, i think it will all work out.
The rhino's are at the forefront, widows second row, mazar in the back. i may try switching them to see if maybe the reason they are growing faster is due to positioning of the pots (or maybe just because rhino grows faster then them all)
K
KMK0420
i just said eff it, and will save the coco for a future grow.. so its like.. 90% ffof, 10% coco at the moment
They should be good if you don't feed them for 2-weeks following your transplant. If you end up keeping them in the 6" squares longer you may have to feed them lightly with a grow formula, but probably not. The ones that I have now that popped up in mid May are in smaller pots and haven't been fed yet. They are still looking very green and healthy.
This said you probably aren't going to mess them up if you do feed lightly once, but I don't think it will improve health, vigor, or growth rate.
One of the main reasons to use FFOF is so that you don't have to worry about feeding vegging plants.
Pine
I was reading about droopy plants above and had a thought. You need to make sure that you are doing a good job watering by really saturating the medium. Typically if you water a dry established plant in soil mixture you will get run off right away as the water just drains down gaps on the sides of the pots caused by the dry medium contracting. To combat this problem you should water in stages. First watering, just lightly wets the medium causing it to expand. 5 minutes later you can water again. This further expands the medium. Then after a few more minutes finish watering. I let them sit in the run off for a few minutes to absorb bottom up, but you may not want to do this once you start using chem fertilizers.
The other thing that you can do with small plants is water by submersion by dunking the plants into a container of water. This is my favorite way to water once plants are well established in 16oz cups and 4" squares.
Pine
The other thing that you can do with small plants is water by submersion by dunking the plants into a container of water. This is my favorite way to water once plants are well established in 16oz cups and 4" squares.
Pine
K
KMK0420
appreciate the advice...
right now ive been checking daily for preflowers...
so far, no mazar's or widows have really showed anything, but out of all 4 Rhinos i have, 1 confirmed female, two borderline, and 1 definite male. a lot of the preflowers are JUST literally starting to form, so they may have not had pistils come out yet.
i'm getting nervous. the mazar's are going extremely slow compared to the widows/rhinos, a strain i really wouldnt grow again. but hey, they were free.
ive kept temperatures within range 95% of the time, with 5% being when one night it dipped to like 68deg...which is not TOO bad...
as far as night cycle, the plants arent PITCH black. i heard its not too big of a deal in vegging mode, but in flowering it is. i even made the room its in blacked out so even now when the lights are off its pretty damn dark. i keep the flaps open to keep ventilation going...
i'm hoping for at LEAST 3 females. 3/11 isn't bad to ask for; but i may scrap the mazar's if they dont start growing faster. the widows and rhinos are 1-2 nodes ahead of the mazar's..
worst case, say i only have ONE female. whats the best use? get a 5+ gal and flower it / lst it like crazy? 3-6 females would be perfect, but i'm getting nervous...im guessing by the end of the week most of the plants will be sexed and ready for the transplant in 1-2 weeks
right now ive been checking daily for preflowers...
so far, no mazar's or widows have really showed anything, but out of all 4 Rhinos i have, 1 confirmed female, two borderline, and 1 definite male. a lot of the preflowers are JUST literally starting to form, so they may have not had pistils come out yet.
i'm getting nervous. the mazar's are going extremely slow compared to the widows/rhinos, a strain i really wouldnt grow again. but hey, they were free.
ive kept temperatures within range 95% of the time, with 5% being when one night it dipped to like 68deg...which is not TOO bad...
as far as night cycle, the plants arent PITCH black. i heard its not too big of a deal in vegging mode, but in flowering it is. i even made the room its in blacked out so even now when the lights are off its pretty damn dark. i keep the flaps open to keep ventilation going...
i'm hoping for at LEAST 3 females. 3/11 isn't bad to ask for; but i may scrap the mazar's if they dont start growing faster. the widows and rhinos are 1-2 nodes ahead of the mazar's..
worst case, say i only have ONE female. whats the best use? get a 5+ gal and flower it / lst it like crazy? 3-6 females would be perfect, but i'm getting nervous...im guessing by the end of the week most of the plants will be sexed and ready for the transplant in 1-2 weeks
It usually doesn't take them long once you have visible preflowers.
The plants that tend to grow the fastest in veg are f1 hybrids. In-bred lines tend to grow the slowest. Also, it is kind of hard to tell now what plants will look like once they flower out as some will grow dramatically over the first 3 weeks of flowering and others will not.
You will have more than 1 female. Statistically, one female out of 11 seed plants is a pretty rare event. If this did happen you could veg it out for another month and then flower it. You could also start more seeds.
Pine
K
KMK0420
we will see...no i didnt cut the flaps off, but see i'm sleeping when the light shuts off, and i'm at work when the light turns on - so it's tough for me to make the surrounding environment pitch black at the moment. but when i switch to 12/12, i will be able to plan it so when the lights go off, it IS pitch black and when they come on there is good ventilation to keep heat in check.
my shift at work is screwing me up, which is my fault.
if that's the case, if preflowers show pistils immediately, i maybe have ~3 males and 1 female now.
my shift at work is screwing me up, which is my fault.
if that's the case, if preflowers show pistils immediately, i maybe have ~3 males and 1 female now.
Cyber9
Member
Dude thats what the tents for, take your plants out.. stand inside and zip it up... Like you can see light with the flaps down from the outside.. but when you stand inside you cant see any light from the room... at least thats how it is with my tent... I can stand inside and cant see my hand in front of my face with the lights on in the room...
Meh i don't think any of mine are showing sex yet... Chemdog DD takes like 45 days or something to show sex
Meh i don't think any of mine are showing sex yet... Chemdog DD takes like 45 days or something to show sex
K
KMK0420
I should have more of an idea even when I get home tonight. could the fact that the plants weren't in pitch black cause more of the plants to lean towards being a male?
Dont know about that. But I do know, that if you have some light leaks during the flowering period it can cause a hermie.
