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Ace Malawi and Cycloptics Greenbeams: caught in the Under Current!

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
Quick pic update. I used the real camera this time.

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srich250

Member
Hi Timmur,I've read every word of your thread and I have 1000's of plants that I've made mistakes with and learned from as well.

I really think you need to do 2 things asap. Otherwise they will NOT mature fully. They might grow huge. It if they don't mature fully you will lose terpene content and 25-50% of their thc potential.

First, I would listen to all of us that have form RDWC and most other forms of growing and get your EC up tomorrow. With that mug leaf matter and root size you are going to be between 1.8-2.4 for the first 4 weeks of flower. Them tapering off down to 1.5-2.0.

Secondly,defoliate those few thick monsters by removing at least 25-35% of the oldest and biggest fan leaves and extra nodes. They could dbl or triple in height and width and trust me, you DONT WANt that. They are too weak to handle it.

Just do what works. Air stones like everyone has used forever. Or measure with your other aeration device but don't let it get over 20% higher than what 2 large stones allow for in DO.
What is your DO with the basic stones now? Also, show a pic of your stone and what compressor you are using.

I would go to EC 2.0 and watch the tips and look for tips curling over the next few days and write down your EC daily twice.

If they show no bad signs , then go to 2.5 (1250ppm HANNA), for a week. Repeat. For another week of looking good.

Then keep increasing so that you max out at 3.0 (1500ppm),in the 3-4th week flowering.

Then back down in similar increments. Finishing the last week at EC1.5(750ppm).

The great thing about RDWC is for you, you can decrease all nutes within minutes without harming roots.

I've burned roots that I couldn't recover once they went above 4500 ppm for a week straight in soil. You won't have that problem.

If you don't get them the proper nutes that they need they will NOT start off flowering properly and you will regret it.

Trust what everyone is telling you about 1.8-2.5EC. :)!!!

I wish you the best and can't wait to see the Changes you make. That tiny plant in the back might get burned at max nutes but you are. It feeding for that single plant. You are feeding for the rest of your girls:)
 

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
Oh and I also love green cycloptics. How high above your canopy have they been and are you adjusting them weekly?

Hey srich. My ceiling is 8' and the Greenbeams are mounted directly on it. I don't adjust the light at all. it's designed to provide progressively more light as the plants get taller.
 

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi Timmur,I've read every word of your thread and I have 1000's of plants that I've made mistakes with and learned from as well.

I really think you need to do 2 things asap. Otherwise they will NOT mature fully. They might grow huge. It if they don't mature fully you will lose terpene content and 25-50% of their thc potential.

First, I would listen to all of us that have form RDWC and most other forms of growing and get your EC up tomorrow. With that mug leaf matter and root size you are going to be between 1.8-2.4 for the first 4 weeks of flower. Them tapering off down to 1.5-2.0.

Secondly,defoliate those few thick monsters by removing at least 25-35% of the oldest and biggest fan leaves and extra nodes. They could dbl or triple in height and width and trust me, you DONT WANt that. They are too weak to handle it.

Just do what works. Air stones like everyone has used forever. Or measure with your other aeration device but don't let it get over 20% higher than what 2 large stones allow for in DO.
What is your DO with the basic stones now? Also, show a pic of your stone and what compressor you are using.

I would go to EC 2.0 and watch the tips and look for tips curling over the next few days and write down your EC daily twice.

If they show no bad signs , then go to 2.5 (1250ppm HANNA), for a week. Repeat. For another week of looking good.

Then keep increasing so that you max out at 3.0 (1500ppm),in the 3-4th week flowering.

Then back down in similar increments. Finishing the last week at EC1.5(750ppm).

The great thing about RDWC is for you, you can decrease all nutes within minutes without harming roots.

I've burned roots that I couldn't recover once they went above 4500 ppm for a week straight in soil. You won't have that problem.

If you don't get them the proper nutes that they need they will NOT start off flowering properly and you will regret it.

Trust what everyone is telling you about 1.8-2.5EC. :)!!!

I wish you the best and can't wait to see the Changes you make. That tiny plant in the back might get burned at max nutes but you are. It feeding for that single plant. You are feeding for the rest of your girls:)

Read the whole thing, huh? Wow you're dedicated! :biggrin:

The airpump and air diffusers are stock Under Current. Not sure what the size is without looking it up, but I know that it delivers nearly saturation at 67 degress (where I keep my system).
 

HHULKK

Member
looking much better, good job man! what you went through is very valuable growing experience. can't wait to see updates. keep it up!
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
looking great timmur, keep it up!

looks like a good amount of phenotype variation among all those different plants, as of right now which one looks like your fav, or which ones?
 

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
looking great timmur, keep it up!

looks like a good amount of phenotype variation among all those different plants, as of right now which one looks like your fav, or which ones?

I'm liking that one on the front left. Nice internode spacing and vigorous growth. That one in the middle front is going to go into the lights! A little too stretchy. We'll see as the they go which one is the real keeper. :biggrin:
 

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
I am not going to tell you what you are short and what you are not. But I will offer some info that may help you if what was posted above is what you need.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38856&pictureid=833238&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

In the picture above is two types of cal/mag additives. Both are vastly different in what they supply though.

The bottle on the left is made with calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. If you can handle the extra nitrogen this bottle is OK to use. But if you want to limit the amount of nitrogen then the bottle on the right is better. It is made with calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. It has no nitrogen.

So the bottle additives on the left dissolves in water easily with nothing being added. The bottle additives on the right will not dissolve in water that has a normal PH. To get it to disolve they add phosphoric acid to bring the PH down to around 4. Been awhile so it could be lower or a little higher. But the PH is real low.

So if what was mentioned above is correct and you need more phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium the bottle on the right is what you should use. It hits all three things with out the nitrogen. But be ready to add a PH up should you use it.

Like I said I am not saying you need anything just offering a option should you need it.

Hey Ichy, I picked up the low nitrogen cal/mag. It has calcium carbonate and magnesium nitrate. Got half of it right! They didn't have any with magnesium nitrate: shitty selection at the local shop! Did notice some pH swing with it. :tiphat:
 

Terpene

I love the smell of cannabis in the morning
Veteran
I'm liking that one on the front left. Nice internode spacing and vigorous growth. That one in the middle front is going to go into the lights! A little too stretchy. We'll see as the they go which one is the real keeper. :biggrin:

Looking great Timmur. Glad to see you got the nutes on track. :tiphat: What overall EC/PPM did you end up at?

You may want to top/pinch/bend/abuse that taller, branchy plant in the middle a bit before you get too far into flower. Should help to keep the canopy more even.

How much vertical space are you left to work with? Whats your general minimum distance off the lights?
 

timmur

Well-known member
Veteran
Looking great Timmur. Glad to see you got the nutes on track. :tiphat: What overall EC/PPM did you end up at?

You may want to top/pinch/bend/abuse that taller, branchy plant in the middle a bit before you get too far into flower. Should help to keep the canopy more even.

How much vertical space are you left to work with? Whats your general minimum distance off the lights?

Hey Terpene, so glad you stopped by! :tiphat:

I'm at about 350 PPM on the 500 scale, but I'm gonna bump it up to about 380-400 over the next 4-5 days. I'm finally dialed in well enough to use my top-off res. It's 100 gallons and I've got it about 10% stronger than the current solution. As the plants consume solution, the top-off res will slowly drive the PPM up over the week.

I'm thinking that the plants need to stay at least 10" off of the lights. If so, they have about 2' more of vertical space. This is really pushing it as I planned on 18" of space between lights and canopy. I think you're right about that stretchy one; she's gonna need some sort of training to keep her out of the lights.
 

srich250

Member
Hey timmur:)- rock and roll man! Yes I read every word so far!!! And yes it's a lot lol.
I'm so glad they are looking better for your sake.

Yeah they are for sure stretching. I keep 600's and the cmh315's 20-30" max from plant. BUT, the first 3 weeks of flower I try for 16-24". They can handle so much light the first 3 weeks while they are still growing. As long as they don't show heat stress then they are not too close. Plus with your co2 near 1000-1200ppm it is the perfect combo. Plus with that much metabolism going on they can feed at EC1.0-2.4 once they are worked up to those levels before backing down weeks 4-8.



If you are in week 1 of flower and you only have 24" of space left you need to act now while they won't hermaphrodite if you defoliate and train them hardcore now.

Otherwise they are going to blowup unless you starve them below 700ppm. That will help they stay smaller but it will hurt their potential for sure.

I would do what that guy above said. Bend!!! Train sideways and everything you can to create even canopy and not too thick. I would remove 50% of all the fan leaves from the top down 12". Then clear out 20% of them in the middle while bending down the stems of everyone that's above the average canopy height.

Whata the measurement front top of your average big plants from top down to where the bottom foliage starts?

What day of flower are you on now ?

Keep learning man!! You're rockin. I can't wait to setup my RDWC under current system again. I miss it:-(!!!!!
 

srich250

Member
Hey srich250. Would you also recommend that high a ec in coco?


Hey stoned40yrs, well I've killed two total grows before over feeding coco runs:-(!!!!! More depressing than you can imagine. Well actually I have a feeling you have been around the block based on your badass name :)!!!!!! So you might have done the same before also.

So since I've over fed so many times I now am pretty anal about testing my soil and building my girls up to their max nutes by week 3/4 in flower and then tapering off from there.

Right now my autos in coco are in week 4 and at EC 2.4 for the last 5 days. Previous 7 days were EC1.7.

This run is on canna coco full lineup plus they got fasilitor all through. Veg and now osa28 in flower for another week too.

I do about 5-10% runoff.

Those two grows I killed every single damn plant was not because I fed at EC1.7-2.4, I learned its because I let them dry out testing a new watering method 4 times in week 5 and all of a sudden they looked weird. I tested the soil 2 diff ways and it was at like 6,700 and some were over 6000ppm even after flushing 3galloms of RO thru them.

Long story but I flushed over 5gal thru each cloth pot over a 5hr horrendous adventure and still couldn't save them. I burned and killed too many roots and tissue I'm assuming.

So after doing it many times since the. I changed to NEVER VER EVER EVER let coco dry out. Which to me means every inch has to have near 100% humidity. To the eye it might look dry but there is a diff I have learned.

So now I just inspect the tips and shapes of the tips of all the leave especially down the center vein looking for Nutrient issues and burning.

So far in week 4 these bomb
Autos have no tip burning and they have never been fed under EC1.7 even since veg the last 4-5 weeks.

It's crazy, my brain is always so fried with how much I mess up and also learn every week and especially every grow!!!!!!!!!

Do you do coco as well:)?????

What kind of theories or practices do you use on your stuff???

Take it easy ,
 

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