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Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys

L

lookmomnohands

soysoz said:
If you're worried about yield but are still open blasting with a thermos, I think you're overthinking it, yes.
Click to expand...

thanks man. i have yet to try the absolute but im sure i was overthinking it. i understand why and how absolute yields less than "traditional" butane extractions. i just didn't want to potentially risk making it smaller with the thermos, heh.

here's something i do not think im overthinking though. it appears that the cap which i originally thought was ss, is actually all plastic. the exterior looks like steel, the inside is black, but the entire cap will give/bend slightly if i squeeze it. don't trust that at all.

i do have this little ss dish though. fits pretty snug on top, just doesn't screw on. i cant bend or squeeze this at all without causing discomfort. i think it'll be suitable, no?



if i recall correctly from a few pages back, graywolf mentioned how his thermos cap doesn't screw on to his thermos, that it rests on top of it after taking out the plastic bit. this makes me feel like the dish will be suitable.
 
J

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Lookmomnohands,

Set the settings for your album, so that others can see your photos.

User Menu> My Albums > Album Title > Edit Album: Album Type: Public

lookmomnohands said:
the cap
Click to expand...

DIY
picture.php


soysoz said:
If you're worried about yield but are still open blasting with a thermos, I think you're overthinking it, yes.
Click to expand...

Soysoz,

Most often, complaints about low productivity sound when soaking did not last long enough.

For the first half hour chilled butane extracts only half the amount.

:)
 
L

lookmomnohands

Jump thanks for the response! Album has been fixed.

Jump what did you make that diy cap from? it looks like the cap to a mayonnaise jar.

here's the cap to my thermos:

in other news, i decided to winterize .66 of underpurged oil. i froze it for 36ish hours instead of 48, mainly due to wanting to taker advantage of free time in order to avoid (future/potential) time constraints, and i also thought that the full 48 hrs may not be so necessary for such a small amount.

i got back .41, more than i thought i would. looks very very dark when collected together, but is amber and clear if spread thin. the leftover crap is quite gross to see in the filter. reminds me of coagulated fat or olive oil.

consistency wise, its not shatter. however, it wasn't shatter before the winterization either. its at that consistency where it becomes all gooey and soft once your finger touches it.

i haven't quite dived in yet, but i did a micro dab comparison between the winterized and some non-winterized shatter. not sure of the dab size, but probably like .02-.03ish. really tiny. still, i notice a difference! winterized was smooth, mainly tasteless (had a subtle hashy taste rather than flowery). the non-winterized batch tasted more pleasant, but found it far more irritating than the winterized.

quite fascinated by this method. i dont mind sacrificing taste for purity.
 
L

lookmomnohands

my first aa, pretty happy with the results. 5.1 in, .85 back. did two soaks, 1 hr + 1 hr. it is a sap, not shatter.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=54739&pictureid=1288683

just disappointed shatter was not achieved. previous two runs were with the tube extraction, followed by winterization; shatter was achieved both times. not sure where i went wrong with the final purge of eth, probably kept it on too long but the temperature was kept the same for all 3 extractions, around 160 f. i've never once achieved yellow amber oil, so the color is not such a big deal.
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

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lookmomnohands said:
my first aa, pretty happy with the results. 5.1 in, .85 back. did two soaks, 1 hr + 1 hr. it is a sap, not shatter.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=54739&pictureid=1288683

just disappointed shatter was not achieved. previous two runs were with the tube extraction, followed by winterization; shatter was achieved both times. not sure where i went wrong with the final purge of eth, probably kept it on too long but the temperature was kept the same for all 3 extractions, around 160 f. i've never once achieved yellow amber oil, so the color is not such a big deal.
Click to expand...

Since the fish trap exists only because of the fish, my first question would be how are the effects, taste, and smell as a sap?

You can get a sap starting with material that is partially decarboxylated, and 160F is high for the end product to reliably end up in shatter form. I get more reliable results under -29.5" Hg vacuum and around 115F.

Retained solvent will leave oil sappy.

Another thing that will produce sap instead of shatter, is higher monoterpene levels, because they are alcohols, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, esters, and other stuff that is a solvent to the twice as large Diterpene cannabinoids.
 
L

lookmomnohands

Gray Wolf said:
Since the fish trap exists only because of the fish, my first question would be how are the effects, taste, and smell as a sap?
Click to expand...

I thank you for the informative post (as all of your posts are)!

Effects are pretty strong actually. a small amount does a pretty good job, with the onset of effects really kicking in after 2-3 minutes post exhalation.

i enjoy the taste quite a bit. it would probably be slightly more prominent had i not decarb'd slightly.

i have trouble describing the smell of winterized oil. i would say, it smells like the flowers it came from, but different, perhaps more subdued? i've only winterized 3 diff. strains so far, but they all smelled pretty much the same after winterization. this leads me to:

Retained solvent will leave oil sappy.
Click to expand...

how does one actually know if solvent has been retained?

would one be able to tell just by smell or taste alone? ethanol has a pretty distinctive aroma; pretty much like vodka. i cannot detect any smell, or taste of it in the oil, whether its sitting in the dish, or being vaporized.

retained solvent will leave oil sappy, but not all sappy oil has retained solvent in it. am i correct in thinking this?

You can get a sap starting with material that is partially decarboxylated, and 160F is high for the end product to reliably end up in shatter form. I get more reliable results under -29.5" Hg vacuum and around 115F.
Click to expand...

i think next time i will try thinner films (ie, pouring enough into the pyrex so that it covers the entire bottom, but does not go up the sides) and try a much much cooler temp. i am entirely vacless, and plan to keep it as such. would you say 130-140F is good for a double boiler setup?
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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lookmomnohands said:
I thank you for the informative post (as all of your posts are)!

Effects are pretty strong actually. a small amount does a pretty good job, with the onset of effects really kicking in after 2-3 minutes post exhalation.

i enjoy the taste quite a bit. it would probably be slightly more prominent had i not decarb'd slightly.

i have trouble describing the smell of winterized oil. i would say, it smells like the flowers it came from, but different, perhaps more subdued? i've only winterized 3 diff. strains so far, but they all smelled pretty much the same after winterization. this leads me to:



how does one actually know if solvent has been retained?

would one be able to tell just by smell or taste alone? ethanol has a pretty distinctive aroma; pretty much like vodka. i cannot detect any smell, or taste of it in the oil, whether its sitting in the dish, or being vaporized.

retained solvent will leave oil sappy, but not all sappy oil has retained solvent in it. am i correct in thinking this?



i think next time i will try thinner films (ie, pouring enough into the pyrex so that it covers the entire bottom, but does not go up the sides) and try a much much cooler temp. i am entirely vacless, and plan to keep it as such. would you say 130-140F is good for a double boiler setup?
Click to expand...

Not all sappy oil has retained solvent. It could be partially decarboxylated or monoterpene enriched.

If you can't smell or taste it, there shouldn't be enough alcohol present to turn shatter into a sap.

Alcohol is also discernible by taste and smell below Threshold Limit Values and levels of concern by the regulatory folks at the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Food and Drug Administration Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER)

http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Drugs/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/Guidances/ucm073395.pdf

I would suggest 140F max, but would start lower at 130F.

Hit or miss without a vacuum, but the fine lines can sometimes be over rated.

Except for self satisfaction, the lines between the difference in the effects between a fine shatter, and a fine taffy are so blurred, that it is usually hard to tell the difference.

As an interesting side note, an old "hippy" once told me that the art was lost and they just don't make oil as good as the sweet as candy honey oil from the hoary days of yore.

As luck would have it, I had some thick tincture in my carry around 420 cartridge ammo can, that I used to paint the inside of rolling papers. I rolled him a super doobie and his eyes immediately lit up, as he gasped, "That's it!!".

The residual ethanol does leave behind a sweet taste, which has not always been recognized for what it is.
 

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J

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Melted the edge of amber, and took a drop of the melt with a dabber.
Here's what happened.

picture.php


Hung for about five minutes, then broke off and fell.

picture.php

picture.php


Here's another two-horned dab, like a snail.
picture.php
 
gaiusmarius

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
whats up jump, awesome pics mate,
thats a strange dabbing setup, can you explain it a bit or show a pic of the whole thing,
is it electric?
 
J

jump /injack

Member
Veteran
Doing it with alcohol and CO2??

Doing it with alcohol and CO2??

Jump,

Here is a site url [ http://freemygreenpdx.com/blog/blog-10/cat-143-qwet ] that I would like to have you look at, its a way of using CO2 and alcohol in a creaming whip. Is there really any reason to use CO2 like is being done here. He says he gets 97% of material to be extracted but your simpler method gets about the same. What would be the benefit if any to use this method? Thank you for any opinion, Gray Wolf your welcome to chime in also. CO2 in a creaming whip???
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

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jump /injack said:
Jump,

Here is a site url [ http://freemygreenpdx.com/blog/blog-10/cat-143-qwet ] that I would like to have you look at, its a way of using CO2 and alcohol in a creaming whip. Is there really any reason to use CO2 like is being done here. He says he gets 97% of material to be extracted but your simpler method gets about the same. What would be the benefit if any to use this method? Thank you for any opinion, Gray Wolf your welcome to chime in also. CO2 in a creaming whip???
Click to expand...

I just ordered a quart Isi unit and a box of chargers, so I'll give a whirl and report back.
 
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