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a wicked pulse

M

mcfly420

Active member
my
2cents.gif
Im using Calcined Clay Top Dressing from Diamond Pro
http://www.diamondpro.com/find-a-distributor/
and Pro´s Choice is another brand
:Bolt:
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
this first group was taken 3 days ago (8/5/12) just prior to a moderate defoliation. i removed most of the large, forward facing, fully expanded, fan leaves. it filled 2 five gal buckets compressed. i had started the frame for the screen.

more worms.

all the tape measure shots are after defoliation.

the first four shots are 13 days from transplant. see 7/23/12 for comparison.
 
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D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
defoliation shots are from the next morning. i took off just enough leaf to be able to see what i was doing when tying.
 
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D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
i tore off any roots that had made it to the reservoir. this is my last opportunity.

assorted shots of the screen in place and untied plants. i used 2"x4" mesh for more tying points.

pic 4 shows some of the 36 cuttings i took monday.
 
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delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
lights came back on (18/6) before i could take the last shots of six plants pulled back to the screen and main laterals roughly tied.

i do the rest today.

i'll try to get some more detail then.
 
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village green

village green

Member
Would there be any advantage of using larger containers for plants that receive an eight to ten week veg time?

I'll be starting with cuttings of 12" length that are rooted on mother plants and will be taken as the mothers are transferred to the flowering room. I want to start them under 400 watt horizontal to start a good stretch and then move them to a vert 600 watt , two plants per bulb.

I want to do a vert scrog side by side with two strains, probably Sour 13 and C-99. I have 22' by 13' with 8' headroom. One third of the space will be for veg with remaining flowering. Here's the tricky part--I plan on building modular scrog units that can be moved from veg to flowering rooms. The rooms will be seperated by panda that can be pulled up for this. Can I elevate the PPK off the floor 2 to 4" and still maintain levels adequately with a float valve?

One vert scrog will be 6' feet high with a 1000 watt bulb on a vertical light mover while the other scrog will be 3' feet high and stationary. Each bulb will have two plants. Each scrog will be started in veg around the 600. I want the screens to be 180 degrees with two screens on a PVC frame and 1' space between the screens. Each PVC frame will hold one plant in one PPK. Would 40" diameter between the inside screens be about right with bare bulbs? In other words between the inner screen on one modular to the inside screen on the other modular.

I know I will need to give this a couple of runs to get a good read on which layout is best for big plants.I wonder if the Sour could stretch enough for this if untopped. Do you think constant movement on the one bulb is less efficient than a cycle timer with two hour or six hour intervals?

I also thought of playing with the veg lighting setup so that one modular got stationary light at 400 watts while the other got 600 on a mover. In this scenario there would be no horizontal lighting and training would start immediately.

It would seem with one plant per screen, your espalier tech( I love that word, it sounds like somebody's being tortured in a spaghetti western LOL ) with overlapping branches would not work unless you sacrificed the ability to adjust to the bulbs, so weaving the branch leads to fill empty spaces, such as close to the main stem, might be an option.

Sorry for a bunch of questions. I should learn bullet points.
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
all pretty much self explanatory but notice in all photos that the plants have been severely pulled back to the screen. in the first photo you can see black wire ties that were used on the lower main stem to tie it back to the crosspiece. i tried to pull all shoots forward toward the lights and have tied some of the larger laterals in place. some don't need tying as they are pressed into the screen.

the leaf regrowth has occurred since monday. 4 days. they are ending their first intense photoperiod since tying and i'm going to do another fairly heavy round of defoliation today during the off period.

this should allow me to see what i'm doing tying and crossing stems.

i tried to intersperse the plants alternating larger and smaller ones and the four smallest ones are on the very end positions as they are the ones with the least amount of screen to work with.
 
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D

DHF

Them kinda worms need to proliferate till end of stretch for max juice useage till end of cycle , so help the worms grow.....

Waitin for all the bondage and domination my buddy...Can`t wait for swellage.....

Peace....Freds.....:ying:.....
 
B

bad gas

Member
D9: You, sir, may take it as a compliment when I say that your plants look nothing like mine.

I wish I had worms.

My Sweet Tooth seedlings are getting better conditions. And, as you said earlier, top early and defoliate the top to allow the bottom to catch up.

Can anyone say: Grow of the Month?

stay safe. bg
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Quotes by Village green

“Would there be any advantage of using larger containers for plants that receive an eight to ten week veg time?”


there is no single answer to this question as the variables are too many but in general a 3.5 is good for a 5-6 week veg if you are using intense lighting. I'll try to put up a pic here for multiple reasons but it will show what can be done in a 3.5.

I think that this design “fools” the plant into behaving as if the container is much larger. As you can see from the photos roots do make it into the reservoir and there is a continuous hydraulic hook up throughout the device at all times. I don't think the plant senses root limitations the same way in this device because of this “hook up”.


“I'll be starting with cuttings of 12" length that are rooted on mother plants and will be taken as the mothers are transferred to the flowering room. I want to start them under 400 watt horizontal to start a good stretch and then move them to a vert 600 watt , two plants per bulb.”


I don't see any problems here.


“I want to do a vert scrog side by side with two strains, probably Sour 13 and C-99. I have 22' by 13' with 8' headroom. One third of the space will be for veg with remaining flowering. Here's the tricky part--I plan on building modular scrog units that can be moved from veg to flowering rooms. The rooms will be seperated by panda that can be pulled up for this. Can I elevate the PPK off the floor 2 to 4" and still maintain levels adequately with a float valve?”


my main reservoir and plant reservoirs are 7” off the floor but the reservoir could be lower if you run a higher water level in it to compensate. You need to do the basic math on your proposed container to see if it will handle the volume required with each pulse.


“One vert scrog will be 6' feet high with a 1000 watt bulb on a vertical light mover while the other scrog will be 3' feet high and stationary. Each bulb will have two plants. Each scrog will be started in veg around the 600. I want the screens to be 180 degrees with two screens on a PVC frame and 1' space between the screens. Each PVC frame will hold one plant in one PPK. Would 40" diameter between the inside screens be about right with bare bulbs? In other words between the inner screen on one modular to the inside screen on the other modular.

I know I will need to give this a couple of runs to get a good read on which layout is best for big plants.I wonder if the Sour could stretch enough for this if untopped. Do you think constant movement on the one bulb is less efficient than a cycle timer with two hour or six hour intervals?

I also thought of playing with the veg lighting setup so that one modular got stationary light at 400 watts while the other got 600 on a mover. In this scenario there would be no horizontal lighting and training would start immediately.

It would seem with one plant per screen, your espalier tech( I love that word, it sounds like somebody's being tortured in a spaghetti western LOL ) with overlapping branches would not work unless you sacrificed the ability to adjust to the bulbs, so weaving the branch leads to fill empty spaces, such as close to the main stem, might be an option.

Sorry for a bunch of questions. I should learn bullet points.”


I need to see a drawing or something to answer any of this.

d9
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
forgot the plant pics. all those that have seen these before please forgive the redundancy but i want to illustrate a point or two about container size.

this plant produced 22.43 oz's of dry bud. it is a sweet tooth #4 grown in a 3.5 gal ppk container of coco (atami loose fill).

it was from a cutting.

it was vegged 5 weeks but those 5 weeks were in front of a 1k hortilux at 15".

it was fed jack's/calcinit at 600 ppm for life with no ph adjusters, no additives, no bud boosters

it shared a 950 magdrive with 8 other plants and now i have a 2400 on 24 plants so i'm finding that a pump with approximately 100 gph capacity per plant site to be adequate for pulse delivery unless you want to go to the "saturation pulse" that i think we will be hearing more about soon.

it used stock tire valves with no extra drilling and regular 1/4" od drip tubing cut to equal length to get equal delivery. no valves. all the larger diameter higher flow plumbing is an attempt to get more volume into the medium before draining occurs. thereby displacing more gas.

the point is, you don't need all the heavy duty, expensive stuff to grow a nice big plant.
 
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R

real ting

Member
BillRose said:
Sterilite has an interesting tote that is 10 gallons and looks a bit more rugged than the Rubbermaid. I could run two plants with two wicksets or drainpieces. I would still save a couple of inches and have 5 gallons of media for each plant Hmmmm see what scheming will cause. Or 1 plant and ten gallons of media Hmmmm.
Click to expand...

Haha, I've just seen this post. I was at the store a few days ago and saw these, and thought of the exact same two plant/1 tub setup. Could be interesting.
 
R

real ting

Member
Hey d9, I saw when you were describing the high flow pump/manifold setup earlier you mentioned a 4" airgap, but the tutorial for handwatered solo ppks you talk about a shorter 2.5 or 3" air gap. Is the 4" airgap just for the pulse fed high flow variant, since it needs less help from the media wick?

Also, what pump timer are you guys using that allows changing the timing by seconds and hourly/half hourly etc feedings?
 
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