captainrelief
Member
should i ever get to that point and have a such sight to gaze at...i surely would be a happy camper. cheers.
A Taste of Africa from Malawi
- Thread starter Zanddar
- Start date
should i ever get to that point and have a such sight to gaze at...i surely would be a happy camper. cheers.
Seems like you have all you need just feed gently increase slowly you will see the plant responding with good lush growth.the 50liters fresh medium is this one:
https://www.hydroponics-centre.com/bio-grow-mix
Product description
We welcome a signature medium strength coco-soil mix from Atami. It has boosted nitrogen to help boost strength and growth during grow phase of your plants. With the addition of worm humus and coco fibre which allows for more oxygen to the roots.
so in a way, some coco atleast, depending where you look, descrptions state 1.2-1.5 ec value for it.
nutes:
https://tuincentrumholland.com/en/atami-starter-kits/3595-atami-ata-nrg-bio-bloombastic-box.html
View Image
ATA Organics Growth C Composition:
NPK 2-3-5 (w / w)
2.42% Nitrogen.
3.02% Phosphorus oxide.
5.65% Potassium oxide.
0.39% Sodium oxide.
0.28% Calcium oxide.
2.02% Magnesium oxide.
0,74% Sulfur oxide.
0.035% Iron.
0.030% Manganese.
0.057% Zinc.
0.016% Boron.
0.002% Copper.
0.002% Molybdenum.
Composition of Alga C by Ata Organics:
(NPK 0-0-9) (w / v)
Active ingredients from plants (11%) including:
-Amino acids.
-Betaine.
-Alginic acid.
-Carbohydrates
Composition of Flower C by ATA:
Phyto-active ingredients:
-Amino acids.
-Betaines.
-Alginic acid.
-Carbohydrates. cant find npk for this one, looks pretty same to me as algea thingflowering stimulant yees. goddamn bottles them selfs are shy on having labels with language that i can actually understand. most of them dont speak english.
bio bloombastic:
Product detailed description
Bio-Bloombastic is a powerful and nutritious flower stimulator from Atami. Compared to the classic Bloombastic, it is 100% biological. Nutrient Content in Stimulator: NPK 0-9-12. Can be used together with basic fertilizers.
i do have growtechnologys IONIC Cal-Mag Pro. should i need it, if i recall correctly it was npk 3-0-0 + ca + mg +iron +amino acid + humic acids coctail.
thats pretty much the mess i am in. underlining situation.
like stated before, im a dwc guy, forced out of the comfort zone due the tap beeing shit in this new location.
have almost zero experience on soil in general. zero with big containers. and zero with "organics"
enjoy the ride, entertainment is for free
Once it starts to flower increase slowly again with flower boosters you should have no problems these plants show the results fast just go slowly and your going to get fantastic results I'm sure.
Thanks!captainrelief
Member
Tangwena, yeah, ok. ill introduce them to the mix and use em from now on...
carefully and slowly. thursday night it will be a week since i last poured ~7liters pure ro in, will wait till i see some signs that its time water again. dunno how long it will take really, but i need to establish this pattern to know i aint keeping the bottom wet 24/7,right?
thats the hard part for dwc noob. to be patient enough. im used to dance with ph/ec meters daily and do the top off routine... what i am doing now feels like cheating in a way
while im at it ill prune the low parts. little at a time, daily. thanks for the tips.
carefully and slowly. thursday night it will be a week since i last poured ~7liters pure ro in, will wait till i see some signs that its time water again. dunno how long it will take really, but i need to establish this pattern to know i aint keeping the bottom wet 24/7,right?
thats the hard part for dwc noob. to be patient enough. im used to dance with ph/ec meters daily and do the top off routine... what i am doing now feels like cheating in a way
while im at it ill prune the low parts. little at a time, daily. thanks for the tips.
captainrelief
Member
ermhmmmmm....confusion via current state of things
ermhmmmmm....confusion via current state of things
so.. color of the new growth has taken quick turn to better...almost as quickly as they came by at the first place.
nor have i gotten to collect all yellow brown old fans from the below. that too seem to have halted. all this just as the time has gone by. nothing else has been done. just waiting...to water again
2days after last watering with ro VS 6days after watering(now).
so what happened? how should i bend my mind around this..?
-did i water too quickly last time, which resulted somekind of temporary nut lock out? oxygen deprivation?
(hasnt been drooping either before, or after the watering since its been in the big pot)
-roots have gotten bigger and are now providing more juice to highlight intensity needs?
-combination of the two? or something totally different mechanism behind it?
... i know i just got told to not overthink it(K.I.S.S and all that)... but the mind wants to know BOTH...WHY? and the following HOW?
leads me to think of how to carry on when the next watering time comes...shy amount of nuts or not.
specially since i already once tried to give em in "advance" when i went away a month ago...and all hell broke loose instantly
a staggering 0.3ec of growth-c + alga-c and suddenly 4day interval didnt hold anymore and "somewhat perfect textures were lost"
bottom old fans lost, yellowing on leaf tips on top..etc...
1 liter per 4days had worked like a clock till the first try with nutes.
thats the sight friend saw when he came to check it for the first time. after the same 4days.
should it seem happy texture wise at next watering round, im starting to lean back to idea of not forcing nutes in.
anyone willing to educate me on how and whys when when looking at the sidebyside pictures?
and oh IF i am stepping to the greyzone of unwrittenrules of how to behave in this forum...plz do me a favor and let me know.
and i shall stop pouring my thoughts out in this manner...there is a good chance they will keep coming on upcoming months.
ps. im happy with what i see at the moment.. just wondering and eager to understand. forgive me.
ermhmmmmm....confusion via current state of things
so.. color of the new growth has taken quick turn to better...almost as quickly as they came by at the first place.
nor have i gotten to collect all yellow brown old fans from the below. that too seem to have halted. all this just as the time has gone by. nothing else has been done. just waiting...to water again
2days after last watering with ro VS 6days after watering(now).
so what happened? how should i bend my mind around this..?
-did i water too quickly last time, which resulted somekind of temporary nut lock out? oxygen deprivation?
(hasnt been drooping either before, or after the watering since its been in the big pot)
-roots have gotten bigger and are now providing more juice to highlight intensity needs?
-combination of the two? or something totally different mechanism behind it?
... i know i just got told to not overthink it(K.I.S.S and all that)... but the mind wants to know BOTH...WHY? and the following HOW?
leads me to think of how to carry on when the next watering time comes...shy amount of nuts or not.
specially since i already once tried to give em in "advance" when i went away a month ago...and all hell broke loose instantly
a staggering 0.3ec of growth-c + alga-c and suddenly 4day interval didnt hold anymore and "somewhat perfect textures were lost"
bottom old fans lost, yellowing on leaf tips on top..etc...
1 liter per 4days had worked like a clock till the first try with nutes.
thats the sight friend saw when he came to check it for the first time. after the same 4days.
should it seem happy texture wise at next watering round, im starting to lean back to idea of not forcing nutes in.
anyone willing to educate me on how and whys when when looking at the sidebyside pictures?
and oh IF i am stepping to the greyzone of unwrittenrules of how to behave in this forum...plz do me a favor and let me know.
and i shall stop pouring my thoughts out in this manner...there is a good chance they will keep coming on upcoming months.
ps. im happy with what i see at the moment.. just wondering and eager to understand. forgive me.
Attachments
Sure, check the link in my sig...
I know by now this is a moot point, but... I learnt to either use coco, or quality based peat soil; but mixing them has been always a no-go for me, makes impossible to follow proper tenders for either coco or soil.
She looks lushy and dark green, I doubt is a nutrient deficiency, I'd just water her leaving solid dry/wet cycles and watch her progress.
What I would do in your situation, after she bounces back, is feed her with low nutes, raising them only when the first wave of flowering/stretch has passed and the plant is in bulking up mode.
Malawi is a beast, let her do her thing and soon she'll be in monster yielding mode.
I think you mentioned using RO... I had tons of issues in the past until I switched to use 100% RO with my salts. I never use calmag, as my salts and using nitric acid as PH- rule it out.
Additionally, if using RO, I found you need to "deduct" some from the EC; if your RO is e.g. EC =0.003 and you feed with EC=1.8 you'll get salt buildup/ nute lockout for sure.
In coco, indoors, 100% RO, I rarely pass EC=1, no matter the stage. This reduced my pests and issues by 90%.
Do you measure PH?
captainrelief
Member
thanks for the thoughtful reply repuk.
wouldnt know anything about the coco+soil mix conflict thing, nor is there anything we can do about it now. but notes taken.
and no i havent measured the ph of PURE RO, assuming it to be around 7. since it worked good enough from the beginning, havent bothered.
yesterday morning i found the plant clearly drooping after 8 light cycles since last watering and decided to act. got myself 8liters of ro and added shy 3ml of alge-c + 4ml flawer-c. 0.04ec/6.4ph.
so kinda took the middle road that you and tangwena suggested.
havent seen her perking up like this before. should anybody be interested, 24c on thefloor, 26c on top frame of the tent. RH 31%.
should i not the fill up one hum unit daily, i would be looking at 15%-20% numbers. when nature wakes up and starts to breath, it will ease things alot during the nights.
also, while i was making the water, i had a small air pump and stone in there while i was it, and noticed a sudden change on the sound the air bubbles made as i inserted the alga-c to the mix. became much more rapid.
cant help but to think: did it break down the water surface tension?
is that the reason the 1liter per 4days interval didnt hold anymore, evaporates more quickly or something?
almost two weeks since the flip, so the info given here on how long the clones need to start flowering...holds rock solid. its time to start counting the weeks.
wouldnt know anything about the coco+soil mix conflict thing, nor is there anything we can do about it now. but notes taken.
and no i havent measured the ph of PURE RO, assuming it to be around 7. since it worked good enough from the beginning, havent bothered.
yesterday morning i found the plant clearly drooping after 8 light cycles since last watering and decided to act. got myself 8liters of ro and added shy 3ml of alge-c + 4ml flawer-c. 0.04ec/6.4ph.
so kinda took the middle road that you and tangwena suggested.
havent seen her perking up like this before. should anybody be interested, 24c on thefloor, 26c on top frame of the tent. RH 31%.
should i not the fill up one hum unit daily, i would be looking at 15%-20% numbers. when nature wakes up and starts to breath, it will ease things alot during the nights.
also, while i was making the water, i had a small air pump and stone in there while i was it, and noticed a sudden change on the sound the air bubbles made as i inserted the alga-c to the mix. became much more rapid.
cant help but to think: did it break down the water surface tension?
is that the reason the 1liter per 4days interval didnt hold anymore, evaporates more quickly or something?
almost two weeks since the flip, so the info given here on how long the clones need to start flowering...holds rock solid. its time to start counting the weeks.
Attachments
I meant if you PH'ed the final nutes, see that yes...
Careful with airstones, some drift the PH...
I see she bulked up nicely! the more mass the higher the water consumption, that's to be expectable.
Malawi in direct mode drinks like 3-4 times more from what e.g. OTH, or Zam does.
I've found also, specially in soil, that watering every week with a low dose (2ml/L) of EM-1 with a tad of molasses or Rhizotonic (EC=0.2-3) helps a lot in keeping a healthy, self-healing pot media.
Careful with airstones, some drift the PH...
I see she bulked up nicely! the more mass the higher the water consumption, that's to be expectable.
Malawi in direct mode drinks like 3-4 times more from what e.g. OTH, or Zam does.
I've found also, specially in soil, that watering every week with a low dose (2ml/L) of EM-1 with a tad of molasses or Rhizotonic (EC=0.2-3) helps a lot in keeping a healthy, self-healing pot media.
SolarLogos
Well-known member
Greetings Captain. Very nice, compact Malawi! You're doing a great job indeed.so.. color of the new growth has taken quick turn to better...almost as quickly as they came by at the first place.
nor have i gotten to collect all yellow brown old fans from the below. that too seem to have halted. all this just as the time has gone by. nothing else has been done. just waiting...to water again
View Image
2days after last watering with ro VS 6days after watering(now).
so what happened? how should i bend my mind around this..?
-did i water too quickly last time, which resulted somekind of temporary nut lock out? oxygen deprivation?
(hasnt been drooping either before, or after the watering since its been in the big pot)
-roots have gotten bigger and are now providing more juice to highlight intensity needs?
-combination of the two? or something totally different mechanism behind it?
... i know i just got told to not overthink it(K.I.S.S and all that)... but the mind wants to know BOTH...WHY? and the following HOW?
leads me to think of how to carry on when the next watering time comes...shy amount of nuts or not.
specially since i already once tried to give em in "advance" when i went away a month ago...and all hell broke loose instantly
a staggering 0.3ec of growth-c + alga-c and suddenly 4day interval didnt hold anymore and "somewhat perfect textures were lost"
bottom old fans lost, yellowing on leaf tips on top..etc...
View Image
1 liter per 4days had worked like a clock till the first try with nutes.
thats the sight friend saw when he came to check it for the first time. after the same 4days.
should it seem happy texture wise at next watering round, im starting to lean back to idea of not forcing nutes in.
anyone willing to educate me on how and whys when when looking at the sidebyside pictures?
and oh IF i am stepping to the greyzone of unwrittenrules of how to behave in this forum...plz do me a favor and let me know.
and i shall stop pouring my thoughts out in this manner...there is a good chance they will keep coming on upcoming months.
ps. im happy with what i see at the moment.. just wondering and eager to understand. forgive me.
TBH, she just looks like she needed water. You mentioned she looked this way twice when it was time for water and you have her on a schedule for watering every 4 days. Growing in soil, you cannot go by a strict schedule of watering, but rather go by the plant's needs which change as the plant gets bigger, temperatures change, humidity change, etc. In other words, try not to water "just" because it's day 4 (or whatever schedule you're on). The best way to tell is get into the habit of picking up the pot each day and feel the weight. You will quickly be able to tell when a plant needs water. When it's ready to water, the pot will feel very light, compared to when she has enough water in the soil. You'll get used to it and see what I mean. Also, I like to see a little run-off. I'm not sure what size container you have, but from the picture, it looks like you would need at least 2 liters of water.
PH is everything. If building my own soil, I pH the soil, otherwise I use potting soil that has been pH'ed already and use very little, if any amendments. Amendments will throw your pH way off.
Water and nutes MUST get pH'ed, unless you're lucky enough that the pH is great after adding nutes. Organic nutes usually drop my pH by around 3, which is way too low. If you use chemical nutes, flush every 3 weeks or so in order to flush out the salts so you won't get nutrient lockout.
Repuk makes a valid point about mixing soil and coco. I prefer a pH of 6.8 for soil, but growing in straight coco or amended coco, I prefer around 6.3 (everyone has their sweetspot and preference for pH in coco). As you know from doing DWC, the wrong pH will cause nutrient deficiencies. If you are accustomed to DWC, you might prefer growing in coco next round, as it's harder to over-water. Also, with coco most problems related to nutrient uptake, such as deficiencies or excess can be cured by a pH flush (3x the volume of your pot/medium and then feed with 1/2 strength nutrients in the proper pH range).
In my experience, KISS applies more to the medium and nutes, excellurators, etc. I'm not familiar with what you are using, but there are a ton of stuff on the market directed towards us canna growers and most are unnecessary and combining lots of different stuff can cause more problems. Start with one brand of nutrients. A good bloom formula generally will have everything you need, except enough calmag if you are using ro water. If you want to add anything, a tsp of molasses as Repuk recommended. If you want to experiment with other additives, try them one at a time and observe the results. I personally don't like using RO anymore, but prefer tap water that has been sitting out 24 hours to dechlorinate. RO strips all the mineral and trace minerals out of the water. RO water is fine and I used it for years, but just have to add cal/mag, then pH which is a must. I also added trace minerals, while good, I'm not exactly sure they are necessary either.
Scope for bugs occasionally and you should be good to go.
Best of luck my friend
Peace, God bless
Quick question for everyone, is it possible to keep a Malawi mother in veg on a 14/10 light cycle? I realize she’s a pure Sativa, but she’s not an extreme tropical type though and looks like she triggers to flowering with a 12/12 light cycle so I’m not sure if it would work??
Malawi fem chop day. The buds are stinky & tight. The colas were overloading the stalks - that's the beefy main untopped cola leaning on the side of the tent. The trichs were nice & cloudy. And that other greedy foxtailing beast in the tent needed all of the lights (it's nosing into the photo from the right). Day 104 from seed. End of week 10 of 12/12. Coco with CannaCoco nutes - fed daily - on the light side. 7 gallon cloth pot. Filtered town water. pH 5.9 more or less. Not a great photo but you get the idea . . . it will be a good yield.
And . . . it was an easy grow.
I am glad I have more seeds in stock.
And . . . it was an easy grow.
I am glad I have more seeds in stock.
captainrelief
Member
repuk: ye last ph check is given just before the watering. have to do some reading on those products you suggested, Rhizotonic is the only one i have seen in the stores, product of canna line? thought it to be a product of rooting phase, but as i never had picked up the bottle and read the info, i take it to much more, judging by how you offer it.
and ye, the perking up didnt last long, 2 light cycles, not pointing up any more.
SolarLogos: Hello! thanks for the depth lecture!
the 1 liter 4 days thing i was talking about, is water under the bridge, incident that happen a over month ago, while it still was in small 8liter soil container.
over 3 weeks its been sitting in a 60l bucket. and the water rhythm has been around 1 week, give or take. 5-7liters each time so far, before i see it running out of the bottom.
and i do it really slowly, longest it have took me to get drainage out of the bottom has been somewhere near 1½h.
i give little, cover the surface area, wait it to sink, go do something else, come back give more etc... little at the time. in hope to get every layer of the bucket evenly moist. and trying to avoid allowing the water just tunnel its way thru unevenly.
still learning... dunno if this is the optimal way, trying to get solid wet and dry cycles as repuk suggested. atleast it sits well in my mind to avoid overwatering danger.
do i get halted grow then before i give more water, as i really aint pro on reading the plant, for "when to water optimally again"
lifting the big container, is a challenge.
tobedetermined: nice!
and ye, the perking up didnt last long, 2 light cycles, not pointing up any more.
SolarLogos: Hello! thanks for the depth lecture!
the 1 liter 4 days thing i was talking about, is water under the bridge, incident that happen a over month ago, while it still was in small 8liter soil container.
over 3 weeks its been sitting in a 60l bucket. and the water rhythm has been around 1 week, give or take. 5-7liters each time so far, before i see it running out of the bottom.
and i do it really slowly, longest it have took me to get drainage out of the bottom has been somewhere near 1½h.
i give little, cover the surface area, wait it to sink, go do something else, come back give more etc... little at the time. in hope to get every layer of the bucket evenly moist. and trying to avoid allowing the water just tunnel its way thru unevenly.
still learning... dunno if this is the optimal way, trying to get solid wet and dry cycles as repuk suggested. atleast it sits well in my mind to avoid overwatering danger.
do i get halted grow then before i give more water, as i really aint pro on reading the plant, for "when to water optimally again"
lifting the big container, is a challenge.
tobedetermined: nice!
Hi tobedetermined
Looks great (well done!) and ripe enough.
As i always like to suggest regarding best harvest time for Malawi and its dominant hybrids: for stronger and longer lasting heavy effects and best resin production it is recommended to let overripe the plants until they start to fade. If you prefer not so heavy effects then harvest earlier, depends on your taste.
And as I wood, correctly pointed, if you have doubts when growing a new strain: harvest some parts at different stages, let them cure properly and then judge what works best for you.
Looks great (well done!) and ripe enough.
As i always like to suggest regarding best harvest time for Malawi and its dominant hybrids: for stronger and longer lasting heavy effects and best resin production it is recommended to let overripe the plants until they start to fade. If you prefer not so heavy effects then harvest earlier, depends on your taste.
And as I wood, correctly pointed, if you have doubts when growing a new strain: harvest some parts at different stages, let them cure properly and then judge what works best for you.
Hi OZZ,
At my latitude (37ºN) Malawi usually starts to flower in late August when photoperiod is close to 14/10 so i won't recommend you to use 14/10 photoperiod if you want to keep them growing. Probably 15/9 would be enough, but to play safe provide to our Malawi at least a 16/8 light cycle to avoid they start to flower.
At my latitude (37ºN) Malawi usually starts to flower in late August when photoperiod is close to 14/10 so i won't recommend you to use 14/10 photoperiod if you want to keep them growing. Probably 15/9 would be enough, but to play safe provide to our Malawi at least a 16/8 light cycle to avoid they start to flower.
Hi captainrelief,
Glad your Malawi has recovered its health after the transplant.
As our friends correctly suggested (thanks everyone for your kindness and help
) in order to get the best potential of your plants and to avoid doubts and failures, it's very important to learn how to measure the ph and ec of your waterings and feedings for your growing media, source of water and specific fertilizers. Otherwise you are acting blindly and new problems will arise sooner or later.
When growing plants (all kind, not only cannabis), it's important to don't force the plants with your own rhythms and desires, but act when they request it. Most of the times less is more in cultivation. Water your plants abundantly when the soil is dry yet the plants are still firm (if you wait until they start to fade, plants start to use their own reserves of water and nutrients, causing yellowing and stopping their development), respect also the soil cycles and don't overwater when the soil is still wet, no matter what your feeding schedule says. An EC of approx 1-1.2 is appropriate for Malawi in late growth/early flowering, later you can increase up to 1.4-1.8 when the plants are producing most of their new flowers.
As Lao Tze said: wu wei, learn the art of waiting and don't overreact, act only when is fully required. Best wishes.
Glad your Malawi has recovered its health after the transplant.
As our friends correctly suggested (thanks everyone for your kindness and help
) in order to get the best potential of your plants and to avoid doubts and failures, it's very important to learn how to measure the ph and ec of your waterings and feedings for your growing media, source of water and specific fertilizers. Otherwise you are acting blindly and new problems will arise sooner or later.When growing plants (all kind, not only cannabis), it's important to don't force the plants with your own rhythms and desires, but act when they request it. Most of the times less is more in cultivation. Water your plants abundantly when the soil is dry yet the plants are still firm (if you wait until they start to fade, plants start to use their own reserves of water and nutrients, causing yellowing and stopping their development), respect also the soil cycles and don't overwater when the soil is still wet, no matter what your feeding schedule says. An EC of approx 1-1.2 is appropriate for Malawi in late growth/early flowering, later you can increase up to 1.4-1.8 when the plants are producing most of their new flowers.
As Lao Tze said: wu wei, learn the art of waiting and don't overreact, act only when is fully required. Best wishes.
Well I just took 3 slips (cuttings) of a Malawi. I have them in glasses of H2O, on the heating mat under 24 hours of light. There were beautiful slips available before I put her in 12/12 this weekend.
One I transplanted about 10 days ago is jumping in the stretch. I am going to crimp her either today or tomorrow. I have Zamaldelicas that are crimped and putting out unbelievable amounts of branches and buds. I am now at 22 weeks of 12/12 on the Zamies and cutting some lower branches that are all brown. Son of a guns take time but so well worth it. The main colas continue to produce flowers. I am letting them go as long as necessary. Good thing I have plenty of smoke available.
One I transplanted about 10 days ago is jumping in the stretch. I am going to crimp her either today or tomorrow. I have Zamaldelicas that are crimped and putting out unbelievable amounts of branches and buds. I am now at 22 weeks of 12/12 on the Zamies and cutting some lower branches that are all brown. Son of a guns take time but so well worth it. The main colas continue to produce flowers. I am letting them go as long as necessary. Good thing I have plenty of smoke available.
That was my suspicion. In that case Ill probably just run her at 18/6. I was thinking of trying to keep a mother in the house, outside of a tent or cab ..... but running a light source that is not contained for 16-18 hrs a day wont quite work in our current apartment. No worries at all I was just pondering my options, reading and learning. Ill probably hold off for now then and see this current KA5H through.
captainrelief
Member
thank you dubi for taking time to advert my doubts. wisdom shines there.
the guidelines stated here by you,solarlogos,tangwena&repuk shall not go unnoticed. ill build my experience with the project on those principles..
what comes to knowing you soil nutes etc...well the way i see it at the moment...i have around 60l "fresh" soil, put to use give or take a month a go, and since i dont see any alarming defiencys as it is now, ill ease out with the nute kit atami gave me, last watering still was with "boosters/addons" on their minimal scale by the chart (1ml/1l) and the base hardstuff bottle(growth-c) on under-minimal scale, 4ml/8l ro. = 0.40ec/6.6ph.
should i go feed the soil with harder hand, i guess then the part of the nutes im putting in and the plant doesnt use, could in theory become "leftovers" and alter the PH of the soil? generating problems on the long run?
"so the less is more" goes far in here? as long plant it self looks happy? when the soil doesnt provide anymore, i need to adjust my ways...? commonfolksense?
this should carry me and the plant for now, you guys talk about the initial scretch/flowering period(if i remember/gathered correctly), did i note right that it should last around 5weeks? then ill introduce the PK heavy bio-bloombastic flowerbooster to the mix? not sure was the 5weeks counted from the flip it self, or from when the plant starts to produce earlyflowers.
be that as it may, thats pretty much on what i have build my fragile peace of mind at the moment.
should everything go well, i hope youll hear from me next time, when its time to start thinking how the end run gonne be, how to run it down nicely and finish rightly.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=66603
that is pretty much my bible so for on the matter in hand. from previous experience.
thats what i studied 5years ago when running 80sat/20ind y-griega by spain medical seeds in DWC.
"NUTRIENT SECRETS AND FLUSHING. A FORGOTTEN KEY PART TO SATIVA FLOWER TIMES
This is something I don't hear very often and is pretty important. The amount of nutes you feed your sativa is also going to effect how long it flowers to a pretty dramatic amount in some cases. This is another place people try to grow sativas like indicas. With a hybrid plant as we all know those last 3 weeks or so is when all the real weight is put on. And you don't wanna skimp on ferts at this time. If the plant runs out of N its not going to produce as big of buds as it could've. So people usually feed up until about a week or a lil longer then they quit feeding. Which is what you should do for most plants.
But sativas aren't most plants. The reason those hybrid buds get so big and resinous those last few weeks is they think winter is coming. They are secreting resin trying to catch pollen, and desperately trying to produce enough energy in the buds to take care of seeds before a frost ends their life over night. Since there are no seeds they produce bigger buds.
But alot of sativas are from places there is no real winter to speak of. Most have no genetic background to be prepared for the concept of finishing for a frost. What determines finishing time for tropical sativas is nutrients. When they are in the wild there is no frost that forces them to try to make seeds. But if they run out of nutes they will die and so will their seeds. So when they start feeling nutrients running out in the ecosystem full of other nutrient thieves they know they need to put all energy into bud production for seeds and not growing more stem and leaves.
By keeping feeding your sativa N as fan leaves die during flower you are accidentally telling your plant that their ecosystem is thriving and they should compete to outgrow other canopy. Stem and leaves in other words which also extends the plants flower time dramatically. New growers often accidentally flower plants for nine months and stuff confused why new growth keeps coming out. Wondering when its going to end. This not only effects flower time but also the high. All those clear trichs aren't ready and produce anxious headache type stone mixed into your euphoric sativa.
As the plant yellows during the last month... good let it. Its natural. As long as it has P and K it will produce nice buds that are ready to finish in unison. Without all that new growth popping out of old growth."
how literally i should take that, i dont know.
the further i get with the soil+minimal feeding, should enable me in the end for better flushing practices,and the more "dead the soil is, and dependant on my input of nutes, easier shall it be to go the final weeks with only RO(a good flush)" ?
i have never cut down an all green plant, autumn colors is to my likeing.
the general principle that shines between the lines of my thinking here underlines the "safe way to go" mantra. should i release my omnypotent yearn for more-faster-bigger-self, i prolly will end up like icarus...to fly...too close to the......
with this picture we mark the end of 1st flowering week.
the guidelines stated here by you,solarlogos,tangwena&repuk shall not go unnoticed. ill build my experience with the project on those principles..
what comes to knowing you soil nutes etc...well the way i see it at the moment...i have around 60l "fresh" soil, put to use give or take a month a go, and since i dont see any alarming defiencys as it is now, ill ease out with the nute kit atami gave me, last watering still was with "boosters/addons" on their minimal scale by the chart (1ml/1l) and the base hardstuff bottle(growth-c) on under-minimal scale, 4ml/8l ro. = 0.40ec/6.6ph.
should i go feed the soil with harder hand, i guess then the part of the nutes im putting in and the plant doesnt use, could in theory become "leftovers" and alter the PH of the soil? generating problems on the long run?
"so the less is more" goes far in here? as long plant it self looks happy? when the soil doesnt provide anymore, i need to adjust my ways...? commonfolksense?
this should carry me and the plant for now, you guys talk about the initial scretch/flowering period(if i remember/gathered correctly), did i note right that it should last around 5weeks? then ill introduce the PK heavy bio-bloombastic flowerbooster to the mix? not sure was the 5weeks counted from the flip it self, or from when the plant starts to produce earlyflowers.
be that as it may, thats pretty much on what i have build my fragile peace of mind at the moment.
should everything go well, i hope youll hear from me next time, when its time to start thinking how the end run gonne be, how to run it down nicely and finish rightly.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=66603
that is pretty much my bible so for on the matter in hand. from previous experience.
thats what i studied 5years ago when running 80sat/20ind y-griega by spain medical seeds in DWC.
"NUTRIENT SECRETS AND FLUSHING. A FORGOTTEN KEY PART TO SATIVA FLOWER TIMES
This is something I don't hear very often and is pretty important. The amount of nutes you feed your sativa is also going to effect how long it flowers to a pretty dramatic amount in some cases. This is another place people try to grow sativas like indicas. With a hybrid plant as we all know those last 3 weeks or so is when all the real weight is put on. And you don't wanna skimp on ferts at this time. If the plant runs out of N its not going to produce as big of buds as it could've. So people usually feed up until about a week or a lil longer then they quit feeding. Which is what you should do for most plants.
But sativas aren't most plants. The reason those hybrid buds get so big and resinous those last few weeks is they think winter is coming. They are secreting resin trying to catch pollen, and desperately trying to produce enough energy in the buds to take care of seeds before a frost ends their life over night. Since there are no seeds they produce bigger buds.
But alot of sativas are from places there is no real winter to speak of. Most have no genetic background to be prepared for the concept of finishing for a frost. What determines finishing time for tropical sativas is nutrients. When they are in the wild there is no frost that forces them to try to make seeds. But if they run out of nutes they will die and so will their seeds. So when they start feeling nutrients running out in the ecosystem full of other nutrient thieves they know they need to put all energy into bud production for seeds and not growing more stem and leaves.
By keeping feeding your sativa N as fan leaves die during flower you are accidentally telling your plant that their ecosystem is thriving and they should compete to outgrow other canopy. Stem and leaves in other words which also extends the plants flower time dramatically. New growers often accidentally flower plants for nine months and stuff confused why new growth keeps coming out. Wondering when its going to end. This not only effects flower time but also the high. All those clear trichs aren't ready and produce anxious headache type stone mixed into your euphoric sativa.
As the plant yellows during the last month... good let it. Its natural. As long as it has P and K it will produce nice buds that are ready to finish in unison. Without all that new growth popping out of old growth."
how literally i should take that, i dont know.
the further i get with the soil+minimal feeding, should enable me in the end for better flushing practices,and the more "dead the soil is, and dependant on my input of nutes, easier shall it be to go the final weeks with only RO(a good flush)" ?
i have never cut down an all green plant, autumn colors is to my likeing.
the general principle that shines between the lines of my thinking here underlines the "safe way to go" mantra. should i release my omnypotent yearn for more-faster-bigger-self, i prolly will end up like icarus...to fly...too close to the......
with this picture we mark the end of 1st flowering week.
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Hi captainrelief,
Your indoor Malawi looks great and perfectly healthy in your last post, well done!
Not all sativa strains are the same neither all need the same treatment, each strain and each plant is different. It's true that excessive N feeding in late flowering can produce undesired reflowerings and extend the flowering time in the more tropical untamed landrace sativas, especially indoors with more stable 12/12 photoperiods, but our Malawi is a very tamed sativa line and accepts very well higher levels of NPK nutrients during flowering and works great indoors with classic 12/12 flowering photoperiod.
Most probably you can increase the EC levels at this point, but to play safe and in case of doubt kindly post a recent picture of her .... i have the feeling you are dealing with her without troubles
Your indoor Malawi looks great and perfectly healthy in your last post, well done!
Not all sativa strains are the same neither all need the same treatment, each strain and each plant is different. It's true that excessive N feeding in late flowering can produce undesired reflowerings and extend the flowering time in the more tropical untamed landrace sativas, especially indoors with more stable 12/12 photoperiods, but our Malawi is a very tamed sativa line and accepts very well higher levels of NPK nutrients during flowering and works great indoors with classic 12/12 flowering photoperiod.
Most probably you can increase the EC levels at this point, but to play safe and in case of doubt kindly post a recent picture of her .... i have the feeling you are dealing with her without troubles
captainrelief
Member
unfortunately the hardship continues, mail man dropped the bomb a while back. apartment radiator repairs coming our way.coming and going for 1 week time. their timing couldnt be worse.
i wont be able to go further than to end of week6 with the hobby. on sunday will have to pack everything up and hide out of sight. sacrifice will be made. no way around it. cant risk it.
next thing to go was the leasing contract, i have had it. fuck this place and its shit tap which taste horrible and leaves your hair after a shower all rough. back to where i belong, i go. where i atleast knew how dwc worked. will surely have a go with these when i get there. but summer, i try to not even think about any of this.
the plant is just amazing. how fu***** frosty is it already, loosely memory based compering to previous works, converting their timeline to where it is now...this is a winner for sure.
even in this despair, with effort, i can only come up with one upside...the way emergency full flush with ro is taking effect, which it has been given last week, and will receive till sunday...i think atleast i dont have to cut down all green plant this time either
dubi, you can be sure of that my circles will hear of you, what you do and how you do it. priceless. have a great summer everyone.
this section of the forum is a goldmine, and the forum in general. thanks for the fish.
last "legit" picture at little over 4 and half weeks.
i wont be able to go further than to end of week6 with the hobby. on sunday will have to pack everything up and hide out of sight. sacrifice will be made. no way around it. cant risk it.
next thing to go was the leasing contract, i have had it. fuck this place and its shit tap which taste horrible and leaves your hair after a shower all rough. back to where i belong, i go. where i atleast knew how dwc worked. will surely have a go with these when i get there. but summer, i try to not even think about any of this.
the plant is just amazing. how fu***** frosty is it already, loosely memory based compering to previous works, converting their timeline to where it is now...this is a winner for sure.
even in this despair, with effort, i can only come up with one upside...the way emergency full flush with ro is taking effect, which it has been given last week, and will receive till sunday...i think atleast i dont have to cut down all green plant this time either
dubi, you can be sure of that my circles will hear of you, what you do and how you do it. priceless. have a great summer everyone.
this section of the forum is a goldmine, and the forum in general. thanks for the fish.
last "legit" picture at little over 4 and half weeks.
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