Boutique Manettino
Member
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a ppk for a 6 plant limit
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
Snook
Still Learning
Don't do boats but it has worked out surprisingly well. Although after I used it on the humidifier, wanting to mate a 6" elbow to it, tried to take it apart... NG. its on there good. But no off-gassing issues, buddy.
I'm trying to set up a small system grow high CDB strains for two dear friends. Complications include a moderate/heavy travel schedule and < 3 plants to stay in the misdemeanor zone. I've been researching DWC for a small grow but I've had nagging doubts about the multiple points of failure in the system. Heat in the reservoir seems a particular bugaboo.
I own a software company and I constantly harp on designing elegant solutions. The right solution always appears simple in retrospect, although it's often devilishly difficult to initially design.
This PPK system is simply elegant. Reading about it here was an epiphany. It solves all of my problems. Sincere thanks to you D9!
I own a software company and I constantly harp on designing elegant solutions. The right solution always appears simple in retrospect, although it's often devilishly difficult to initially design.
This PPK system is simply elegant. Reading about it here was an epiphany. It solves all of my problems. Sincere thanks to you D9!
^ hey Mug welcome aboard! I've lost both pumps and also lights on different occasions when I traveled (of course, while i was away) and the plants were fine when i got back or popped right back in no time. In other systems i would have lost the lot of them.
my biggest issue has been overwatering/feeding but i'm getting a handle on that. Increasing my airgap brought marked improvement, its nice to be able to fine tune the buckets.
This is a great system for growing trees which is what I also want with a small plant count (4).
many of us are using 7gal tubs with turface which supports a big root mass and when properly done you'll crank out trees.
my biggest issue has been overwatering/feeding but i'm getting a handle on that. Increasing my airgap brought marked improvement, its nice to be able to fine tune the buckets.
This is a great system for growing trees which is what I also want with a small plant count (4).
many of us are using 7gal tubs with turface which supports a big root mass and when properly done you'll crank out trees.
Thanks for the welcome, McKush. I'm getting a handle on the nomenclature, always one of the difficult tasks when entering a new culture. If by trees you mean large, productive plants that's my goal. Fewer grows means less risk.
I finally grok the system I think. So you use 7gal top tubs. Do you have a brand to recommend? What about your bottom tub? The tailpiece is so well documented early in the thread I have that part down. Turface use in cannabis grows was a shock, I've spread it by the ton I think on our little league fields.
I'm going with one plant, scrogged I think, in a 3'x3' space. I have water and drains nearby and can keep the elevated reservoir and control tub/pump outside the space. Light will be an 8 COB home brew unit with CREE CXB3590 at 700mA for veg and 1400mA for flower. The light is finished and is stupid bright.
I'm hoping for success in my first grow but don't expect it. My friends would like the meds, and everything we can buy locally has been found to be contaminated with insecticide/miticide.
Nothing is carved in stone so fire away if you judge I'm headed down the wrong path.
Again, thanks for the welcome. Oh, as a PS: any recommendations on high CBD strains and growing strategies? I've read that harvesting late is a way to go to increase CBD, but there's so much legend and questionable info that I'm not sure.
I finally grok the system I think. So you use 7gal top tubs. Do you have a brand to recommend? What about your bottom tub? The tailpiece is so well documented early in the thread I have that part down. Turface use in cannabis grows was a shock, I've spread it by the ton I think on our little league fields.
I'm going with one plant, scrogged I think, in a 3'x3' space. I have water and drains nearby and can keep the elevated reservoir and control tub/pump outside the space. Light will be an 8 COB home brew unit with CREE CXB3590 at 700mA for veg and 1400mA for flower. The light is finished and is stupid bright.
I'm hoping for success in my first grow but don't expect it. My friends would like the meds, and everything we can buy locally has been found to be contaminated with insecticide/miticide.
Nothing is carved in stone so fire away if you judge I'm headed down the wrong path.
Again, thanks for the welcome. Oh, as a PS: any recommendations on high CBD strains and growing strategies? I've read that harvesting late is a way to go to increase CBD, but there's so much legend and questionable info that I'm not sure.
Boutique Manettino
Member
Follow Delta9nxs' PPK guidelines fairly closely. You might want to disregard most other advice unless it's from Delta9nxs, Snook, HL and increasingly Av8or (but do take the time to monitor your pH at the start for a bit).
Some other guys have high post counts but are noobs who should be more focused on bringing in a successful crop rather than giving advice.
Everything you need to know has been carefully laid out by D9 in this thread and previous ones. You won't find better guidance or someone with deeper experience.
Many noobs with very little to no experience have set-up a PPK or two with some lights, followed guidelines closely, and have pulled in successful crops right from the start even though they may not understand what is happening with the plant.
This is beauty of the PPK and exactly what Delta9nxs intended.
Most people who try a PPK in their garden are intelligent and motivated. In the very few cases where guys have ongoing issues, it's usually their own arrogance (rather than incompetence) that misleads them.
The PPK is a big, self-watering pot. Nothing more. Finding that you cannot successfully finish and harvest plants using PPKs is the same as saying you have not yet figured out how to grow a plant in a hand-watered pot full of media under artificial light.
The only simpler way to obtain indoor-grown, medical hydroponic cannabis is to go to a dispensary or call a buddy.
The few guys who do have problems typically over-complicate things by going off on tangents and doing irrelevant experiments. It is a far better idea to stick to the basics and lay down a solid foundation of experience using best practices until you get the hang of it.
Just keep it really simple and you will go a long way towards guaranteeing you are part of the majority of newer growers who find success in the shortest amount of time.
A couple of things to consider....
(7) gallon feed pans like this:
are way too big for most users. You need extremely high levels of light and large plants (longer veg times) in order to properly drive that much media.
It is likely you will find your plants have issues if you use the 7 gallon feed pan because the roots will stay too wet. This is especially true if you have more than (1) plant per light.
To give you an example, I'm driving 4' tall by 3.5' wide trees, at flip, in 3.5 gallons of media. I have more than (1) 1,000 W HPS bulb per plant and most of my bulbs are bare and hang vertically in between the trees.
You have LED light so will have better spectrum than I do (even tho I have a few 400W metal halides burning), but your fixture is up above the garden and will not "drive" your plants the same.
This top container will be your best bet:
Boutique Manettino
Member
I did some experimenting with SCROG and PPK a few years ago:
The screen is just over 4' 3" by 4' 3" square. The grid is 4" by 4". I finished the plants with a 600 W Hortilux HPS. Worked very well.
I had (1) plant-per-light, and more viable, flowering canopy due to the SCROG than any other horizontally-lit PPK I've seen yet (especially where guys have multiple plants per light) but I still don't consider a 4' x 4' canopy of solid bud to be a "tree".
The 3.5 gal top container was not full to the top of media and it was almost too much media for this size of plant.
Look at Delta9nxs's pictures and you'll see large plants with at least (1) large bare HPS bulbs hanging vertically beside the plant with the arc tube aimed directly at the center of the plant mass and much closer to the plant.
That is a tree.
Guys have a single light fixture hung way up above multiple plants that have a fraction of the nodes (branches/budsites) that you see in D9's pics (and actually fewer nodes than resulted in the above SCROG) but use the same amount of media. Then they keep it soaked and wonder why they have problems.
While there aren't very many of those threads (thankfully), I feel they kind of cast the PPK in a negative light which is disrespectful to the time and effort D9 put in bringing this thing along. Their problems are not due to any fault in the way the PPK works; they'd have just as many issues if they removed the PPK part of their grow and just hand-watered a few plants in pots full of coco.
It's also a huge disservice to other new growers who would really benefit from using the PPK but get discouraged after seeing smart, accomplished people who put in a lot of hard work just not get there.
Fortunately that is a very small minority.... and you are pressing ahead and have not been discouraged
If you do go with SCROG, this type of screen worked pretty good for me:
I hung it on chains so I could move it up and down for training and re-arranging the plant until the it was in full stretch post-flip.... and then it was very easy to move it up a bit as the stretch finished. You will have to experiment a bit in your own garden but something like this gives you options and flexibility.
The string was very tight and available for cheap at Home Depot. At harvest time I just made one cut and was able to remove the entire grid.
I pre-drilled each screw hole to prevent the wood from splitting.
-----
As far as CBD etc… it's not as simple as looking at a seed catalogue and then picking one that is "high CBD” nor are higher levels of CBD in your buds achieved by simply letting them go longer on the plant before you harvest.
In terms of medical applications of cannabis, this is a controversial topic.
The concept of a "high CBD strain" works great for the marketing efforts of breeders and the sake of simplicity when new medical users and growers are shopping web sites... but when it gets down to actual medical use it is far more complicated.
At the moment, even the word "strain" is not accurate. "Cultivar" and "variety" are correct and "Narrow-leaf drug cultivar" and "Broad-leaf drug cultivar" is the proper terminology for what are general referred to as "Sativa" and "Indica".
This is just FYI as pretty much everything you see/read will still use Ind/Sat and if you’re sourcing seeds or cuttings, you have to start somewhere.
The premise of a "high CBD strain" is pain/symptom relief with reduced "high" effects. I suspect that is accomplished most easily through the use of extracts and that's a bit outside of the scope of this conversation.
The premise of testing for CBD and THC levels again has more to do with having a way to compare different flowers (and their derivatives, BHO/Rosin etc) for the purposes of having some easily relatable information about a specific seed, cutting or flower.....
.....than of providing specific information of how using/smoking/dabbing/ingesting will actually affect and/or benefit you.
There are countless competitions and "cannabis cups".... and the commercial side of the industry is presently exploding (marketing, websites, dispensaries).
The terminology and testing are more a function of the need for a common language than of efforts to get to accuracy.
Keep this in mind as you select seeds or cuttings to try. And that's the key... narrow down your choices by reading, researching and talking to people who've tried things if that is an option for you but you're going to have to try a few different things and see what it feels like... and expect that your patients will experience it differently.
Something that tests high for THC should give you a good kick... but it's more than the THC. Same with "high CBD".... there are other compounds that are produced by the plant that affect your experience…. and you will experience one variety differently than someone else.
Lots of examples where a flower that tests under 20% THC gets a user much higher than a flower testing north of 20% THC…. and other patients are finding flowers testing 2% to 4% CBD to be the most effective for pain and symptom relief.
Word-of-mouth and then your own testing and comparison will be your best guide. Expect it to take time and in fact it can be a never-ending process. Try and work with cuttings if that is viable for you as you’ll be able to cover way more ground in less time than with seeds.
If you have limited options and are stuck for a starting point, you could try and get some Barbara Bud seeds from House of the Great Gardner as I know that plant was selected by consensus in a large medical-user community and is considered to be “CBD-ish”.
As for harvest times or window… best to just experiment over a few grows. Harvest plants at different times, keep track of what was taken when and then see what the effects are.
Often letting a plant go well past the harvest window in an effort to obtain more "CBD" effect generally results in degraded resin, compounds that were once active that just continue to break down. Smoking something and then just going to sleep is kind of pain relief I guess.... but you can definitely get more pain relief and still remain awake.
Take the time to learn how to properly dry (and even cure) your flowers.
There’s no really easy, quick way to achieve your goal…. but that’s the fun of it!
The screen is just over 4' 3" by 4' 3" square. The grid is 4" by 4". I finished the plants with a 600 W Hortilux HPS. Worked very well.
I had (1) plant-per-light, and more viable, flowering canopy due to the SCROG than any other horizontally-lit PPK I've seen yet (especially where guys have multiple plants per light) but I still don't consider a 4' x 4' canopy of solid bud to be a "tree".
The 3.5 gal top container was not full to the top of media and it was almost too much media for this size of plant.
Look at Delta9nxs's pictures and you'll see large plants with at least (1) large bare HPS bulbs hanging vertically beside the plant with the arc tube aimed directly at the center of the plant mass and much closer to the plant.
That is a tree.
Guys have a single light fixture hung way up above multiple plants that have a fraction of the nodes (branches/budsites) that you see in D9's pics (and actually fewer nodes than resulted in the above SCROG) but use the same amount of media. Then they keep it soaked and wonder why they have problems.
While there aren't very many of those threads (thankfully), I feel they kind of cast the PPK in a negative light which is disrespectful to the time and effort D9 put in bringing this thing along. Their problems are not due to any fault in the way the PPK works; they'd have just as many issues if they removed the PPK part of their grow and just hand-watered a few plants in pots full of coco.
It's also a huge disservice to other new growers who would really benefit from using the PPK but get discouraged after seeing smart, accomplished people who put in a lot of hard work just not get there.
Fortunately that is a very small minority.... and you are pressing ahead and have not been discouraged
If you do go with SCROG, this type of screen worked pretty good for me:
I hung it on chains so I could move it up and down for training and re-arranging the plant until the it was in full stretch post-flip.... and then it was very easy to move it up a bit as the stretch finished. You will have to experiment a bit in your own garden but something like this gives you options and flexibility.
The string was very tight and available for cheap at Home Depot. At harvest time I just made one cut and was able to remove the entire grid.
I pre-drilled each screw hole to prevent the wood from splitting.
-----
As far as CBD etc… it's not as simple as looking at a seed catalogue and then picking one that is "high CBD” nor are higher levels of CBD in your buds achieved by simply letting them go longer on the plant before you harvest.
In terms of medical applications of cannabis, this is a controversial topic.
The concept of a "high CBD strain" works great for the marketing efforts of breeders and the sake of simplicity when new medical users and growers are shopping web sites... but when it gets down to actual medical use it is far more complicated.
At the moment, even the word "strain" is not accurate. "Cultivar" and "variety" are correct and "Narrow-leaf drug cultivar" and "Broad-leaf drug cultivar" is the proper terminology for what are general referred to as "Sativa" and "Indica".
This is just FYI as pretty much everything you see/read will still use Ind/Sat and if you’re sourcing seeds or cuttings, you have to start somewhere.
The premise of a "high CBD strain" is pain/symptom relief with reduced "high" effects. I suspect that is accomplished most easily through the use of extracts and that's a bit outside of the scope of this conversation.
The premise of testing for CBD and THC levels again has more to do with having a way to compare different flowers (and their derivatives, BHO/Rosin etc) for the purposes of having some easily relatable information about a specific seed, cutting or flower.....
.....than of providing specific information of how using/smoking/dabbing/ingesting will actually affect and/or benefit you.
There are countless competitions and "cannabis cups".... and the commercial side of the industry is presently exploding (marketing, websites, dispensaries).
The terminology and testing are more a function of the need for a common language than of efforts to get to accuracy.
Keep this in mind as you select seeds or cuttings to try. And that's the key... narrow down your choices by reading, researching and talking to people who've tried things if that is an option for you but you're going to have to try a few different things and see what it feels like... and expect that your patients will experience it differently.
Something that tests high for THC should give you a good kick... but it's more than the THC. Same with "high CBD".... there are other compounds that are produced by the plant that affect your experience…. and you will experience one variety differently than someone else.
Lots of examples where a flower that tests under 20% THC gets a user much higher than a flower testing north of 20% THC…. and other patients are finding flowers testing 2% to 4% CBD to be the most effective for pain and symptom relief.
Word-of-mouth and then your own testing and comparison will be your best guide. Expect it to take time and in fact it can be a never-ending process. Try and work with cuttings if that is viable for you as you’ll be able to cover way more ground in less time than with seeds.
If you have limited options and are stuck for a starting point, you could try and get some Barbara Bud seeds from House of the Great Gardner as I know that plant was selected by consensus in a large medical-user community and is considered to be “CBD-ish”.
As for harvest times or window… best to just experiment over a few grows. Harvest plants at different times, keep track of what was taken when and then see what the effects are.
Often letting a plant go well past the harvest window in an effort to obtain more "CBD" effect generally results in degraded resin, compounds that were once active that just continue to break down. Smoking something and then just going to sleep is kind of pain relief I guess.... but you can definitely get more pain relief and still remain awake.
Take the time to learn how to properly dry (and even cure) your flowers.
There’s no really easy, quick way to achieve your goal…. but that’s the fun of it!
My gosh...sincere thanks to you Manettino for the generous gift of your time that you invested in those two posts. I will do as you've counseled regarding components and techniques and I'll take your comments regarding CBD strains and harvesting timeframes to heart.
It's obvious I'll need to invest a lot more of my time in strain research. The growing techniques and procedures are more straightforward, more within my frame of reference, and easier for me to assess. Cultivars/phenotypes, not so much. I'll get the bros to hit the web as well so they understand the challenge and get some skin in the game. I know they won't mind. As you have inferred, my old buddies' goal is not to be comatose/asleep but active and productive.
I'm afraid seed is going to be our only option as we live in a a state with harsh laws and we're totally outside the growing community. But we'll manage. I'll take to heart your advice of getting patient advice, while tempering our expectations for similar results.
We'll jump to it...time is the fire in which we burn. Eventually we all understand that, I'm afraid.
This is obviously a cool place if it has helpful members like you. Again, my sincere thanks!
It's obvious I'll need to invest a lot more of my time in strain research. The growing techniques and procedures are more straightforward, more within my frame of reference, and easier for me to assess. Cultivars/phenotypes, not so much. I'll get the bros to hit the web as well so they understand the challenge and get some skin in the game. I know they won't mind. As you have inferred, my old buddies' goal is not to be comatose/asleep but active and productive.
I'm afraid seed is going to be our only option as we live in a a state with harsh laws and we're totally outside the growing community. But we'll manage. I'll take to heart your advice of getting patient advice, while tempering our expectations for similar results.
We'll jump to it...time is the fire in which we burn. Eventually we all understand that, I'm afraid.
This is obviously a cool place if it has helpful members like you. Again, my sincere thanks!
Read your posts a couple more times.
Your posts already saved me from a "more cowbell" error in using a large upper tub. More tub and more media must mean more medicine, right? I had fantasies about doing this once and obtaining sufficient to meds so I could retire from my nascent life of crime. Obviously this is going to be a process...
I'll approach this in the straightforward and conservative manner you advise, while I also explore obtaining extracts. Although that entails different challenges.
Worrying about John Law at my age seems so ridiculous.
Your posts already saved me from a "more cowbell" error in using a large upper tub. More tub and more media must mean more medicine, right? I had fantasies about doing this once and obtaining sufficient to meds so I could retire from my nascent life of crime. Obviously this is going to be a process...
I'll approach this in the straightforward and conservative manner you advise, while I also explore obtaining extracts. Although that entails different challenges.
Worrying about John Law at my age seems so ridiculous.
i have only 6 ppk runs under my belt.they were all run with 3 gallon rough neck totes for the top and bottom.i run vertical and to maximize my height i did it that way.the down side is that i can not adjust my air gap.it is 3 to 3 1/2 inches.i can not run as wet as d9 describes or i have over watering.i run drier and everything is great.Read your posts a couple more times.
Your posts already saved me from a "more cowbell" error in using a large upper tub. More tub and more media must mean more medicine, right? I had fantasies about doing this once and obtaining sufficient to meds so I could retire from my nascent life of crime. Obviously this is going to be a process...
I'll approach this in the straightforward and conservative manner you advise, while I also explore obtaining extracts. Although that entails different challenges.
Worrying about John Law at my age seems so ridiculous.
my plants have been averaging a little over 8 zips each in the three gallon totes.the root ball was just about the size of the container.i have 2 600 hps bulbs stacked in a 4 by 4 x6 foot tall cabinet .
the picture of the cabinet above that i posted was just reconfigured from vertical to horizontal to try my new led lights.i redid the ppk to 2 3 gallon totes on top of 1 17 gallon tote for the bottom x2.now i can adjust my air gap.i will continue running on the drier side so i can get a good comparision of how the leds do to the hps.i do not want to change any of the variables till after this test run.it has been a very easy system.
Uh oh. And here I thought I understood the system.
Two pumps? I have this picture in my head of a system containing one pump. Two pumps? Save me from cognitive dissonance.
i only run 1 pump.
I'm encouraged. I actually understood that, and why you needed a larger bottom tub to allow adjustment of the air gap. I'm also encouraged that you didn't relate "...and I lost the first grow to high reservoir temps/root rot and the second to nute lockout due to poor pH control and the third..."
That's what I'm hearing with DWC, which is the only other method that gives me a shot, considering my travel schedule.
If I have to listen to my wife and lawyer tell me--repeatedly--that I'm an idiot for considering this course of action I'd like to think I have a reasonable shot at a positive outcome.
Urban dictionary is useful to me for translation. Zips. Back in the '70s they were lids, or "oh-zees".
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
My space is 3'x3', but my light looks identical. I was only planning one plant in the space.
av8or
Member
Mugwump, welcome aboard! You'll be glad you've landed in ppk world as a first time grower. I know I was. First thing to do is grasp the theory of operation for the ppk. Which buckets you use and even which media you pick are completely up to you. No matter where you live, you should have resources available locally to piece one of these systems together. I have used a few different top tubs but I've landed on a 3.5 gal bottom with a 7 gal top. I also use one small 185 gph pump in every single ppk site. D9 and I experimented with more manifolds but found them to be a huge pain to build, even with "mountain gorilla finger strength.". I enjoy the constant flow rate each ppk site gets with its own pump. No more ball valves regulating flow to match the other sites. Again, it doesn't matter if you run a feed loop with all sites fed with one pump (I ran a 12 plant perpetual on one res and one sump pump last year) or with as many as there are plants. Point is, feed your plants a little water, a lot of times. I feed one quart every 15 minutes. I'm also using Perlite. I say again....I AM USING PERLITE.....so you turface users don't go using this feed schedule cause you'll drown your plants. Turface dries slower.
While I'm thinking about it....one thing that really jacked me up initially was not leveling my ppk sites. If you run off one float bucket and res (therefore with one pump or two if they're feeding against each other in a loop) you will have to have a level floor or shim each bucket to the same height. This was your air gap/water level will be equal in all ppk sites. If you run a float and pump for each ppk site, don't worry about it. Just set your floats all the same respectively.
Biggest advice is this: build a perfect grow room. Don't accept anything less than correct. Don't cut corners. If you really want to excel at this, nail your temps and humidity. I only operate sealed rooms with co2 also, so if you're going that route, seal it up proper. It'll pay enormous dividends lately. There's a lot to be said about confidence in your equipment, especially if you're going to be travelling for work a bit. This system will allow it but you have to set it up that way. Sealed rooms are helpful for smell reduction but you'll need local access to a place to refill the tanks. Here in Oregon everyone and their mother grows (damn near anyway) so we have access to every possible item to purchase overtly with no hassle. It's really nice. I've never had to worry about the welding supply store turning me into the cops for refilling co2 tanks all the time. Anyhow, I digress.
CBD strains....it's already been explained well enough but I will add one thing. Look into CBG. It's the precursor to THC and CBD anyway.
Mug, I went through all this stuff a year and a half ago. Fortunately, I logged it in real time in my "Av8or's ppk - first grow" thread. Check it out if you'd like. I tried to chronicle what it was like for an actual noob who hadn't grown before to start with a ppk. Well, six months later I grew my first one pounder, then a two....now I'll never look back! I can't stress enough the importance of research. Devour the forums and ask tons of questions. That's what we are all here for! Also, try not to take anyone's advice as gospel. Look for recurring successful trends and run with those. I may say something worked for me but doesn't work for someone else. There's a disconnect but on whose end? Maybe I got lucky. Maybe it's a different variable altogether making it work or not. So again, look for trends, not necessarily specifics. I see a lot of people get hung up on "the exact same bucket" or the like. Learn the theory of operation then use whatever locally sourced items you can to satisfy the requirements of ppk operation. Simple enough, right? Haha
Again, welcome buddy. Let us know what you need so we can help!
While I'm thinking about it....one thing that really jacked me up initially was not leveling my ppk sites. If you run off one float bucket and res (therefore with one pump or two if they're feeding against each other in a loop) you will have to have a level floor or shim each bucket to the same height. This was your air gap/water level will be equal in all ppk sites. If you run a float and pump for each ppk site, don't worry about it. Just set your floats all the same respectively.
Biggest advice is this: build a perfect grow room. Don't accept anything less than correct. Don't cut corners. If you really want to excel at this, nail your temps and humidity. I only operate sealed rooms with co2 also, so if you're going that route, seal it up proper. It'll pay enormous dividends lately. There's a lot to be said about confidence in your equipment, especially if you're going to be travelling for work a bit. This system will allow it but you have to set it up that way. Sealed rooms are helpful for smell reduction but you'll need local access to a place to refill the tanks. Here in Oregon everyone and their mother grows (damn near anyway) so we have access to every possible item to purchase overtly with no hassle. It's really nice. I've never had to worry about the welding supply store turning me into the cops for refilling co2 tanks all the time. Anyhow, I digress.
CBD strains....it's already been explained well enough but I will add one thing. Look into CBG. It's the precursor to THC and CBD anyway.
Mug, I went through all this stuff a year and a half ago. Fortunately, I logged it in real time in my "Av8or's ppk - first grow" thread. Check it out if you'd like. I tried to chronicle what it was like for an actual noob who hadn't grown before to start with a ppk. Well, six months later I grew my first one pounder, then a two....now I'll never look back! I can't stress enough the importance of research. Devour the forums and ask tons of questions. That's what we are all here for! Also, try not to take anyone's advice as gospel. Look for recurring successful trends and run with those. I may say something worked for me but doesn't work for someone else. There's a disconnect but on whose end? Maybe I got lucky. Maybe it's a different variable altogether making it work or not. So again, look for trends, not necessarily specifics. I see a lot of people get hung up on "the exact same bucket" or the like. Learn the theory of operation then use whatever locally sourced items you can to satisfy the requirements of ppk operation. Simple enough, right? Haha
Again, welcome buddy. Let us know what you need so we can help!
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av8or
Member
Here's a 144 seed pheno hunt. We selected one plant at the end that became a mother. I'm flowering the second place plant elsewhere (as I mentioned in the previous post) and she's enormous.
For those using turface, we build a screening machine with a 55 gallon drum, large zip ties, screen and a small cement mixer. It works very well.
Also pictured is a 20 plant flower room that's 27x32'. Check out the flipping lights and the ceiling grid. I developed the grid myself! When the plants go in the room, they're all collapsed in on 4' centers. As they grow, the entire lighting grid expands outward to a max of 6' centers. I can keep light on them really intensely like this.
I put reflectix on all the sites since then and have switched to perlite. I've been moving a lot of plants around so it gets tiresome on the back with turface.
For those using turface, we build a screening machine with a 55 gallon drum, large zip ties, screen and a small cement mixer. It works very well.
Also pictured is a 20 plant flower room that's 27x32'. Check out the flipping lights and the ceiling grid. I developed the grid myself! When the plants go in the room, they're all collapsed in on 4' centers. As they grow, the entire lighting grid expands outward to a max of 6' centers. I can keep light on them really intensely like this.
I put reflectix on all the sites since then and have switched to perlite. I've been moving a lot of plants around so it gets tiresome on the back with turface.
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av8or
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Here is a 72 site veg facility. Rooted cuttings get placed in their final.containers under 120 watt replacement led bulbs. 17 watts I think. Once they've taken hold in their big pots, they move up to the vertical 600 watt MHs. Then, around two foot, they move up to a bigger room with more verticals, this time adding hps. The lights flip every other on six hour increments. This is where we bring them to 4', top them and move them to a flower room.
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av8or
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Here's the easiest cloner ever. Ten gallon Rubbermaid filled half way up with 250-300 ppm jacks/calnit. Thermaloam wicks through the bottoms. Cut holes in the lid to recess the solo cups down to the water level. No air gap. Ten to fourteen days later, roots will pop. The root luc below was taken on day 12. Not too bad. Here's the trick...the room is 80℉ and 75-80% RH. This is a must. I'll not even bother with another cloning method. This is way too easy.
Oh, here's the mother of the pheno hunt that we did choose. She's a seed grown plant and has been hacked up a bunch but I'm going to flower her out, too. Probably get another three off her.
Lastly....I dealt with the algae in the last post. They all have reflectix covers now. I got busy doing something else and let the algae go longer than I like. Apologies if this offends anyone's sense of perfection, to borrow a phrase from a certain ppk inventor.
Oh, here's the mother of the pheno hunt that we did choose. She's a seed grown plant and has been hacked up a bunch but I'm going to flower her out, too. Probably get another three off her.
Lastly....I dealt with the algae in the last post. They all have reflectix covers now. I got busy doing something else and let the algae go longer than I like. Apologies if this offends anyone's sense of perfection, to borrow a phrase from a certain ppk inventor.
