are these the hoses being used.....
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Goodyear...CH=RV-_-rv_search_plp_rr-_-NA-_-100676339-_-N
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Goodyear...CH=RV-_-rv_search_plp_rr-_-NA-_-100676339-_-N
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
a ppk for a 6 plant limit
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
yep
that's the shit!
right on, picked up 4 rolls today, but are you not using larger diameter for drain vs feed?
Same size for both.
as the lids of the totes sagged from the weight i found these farberware brand cutting boards at wally's that just fit the lids. also i cut the holes in both the lids and the cutting board at 1.5".
parameters were 80-82f, 65-70rh with no domes. 250 ppm jack's and calcinit mixed at 666.
flood is 30 seconds every 3 hours which filled the containers about 2/3 the way up.
lighting is a t-5 fixture that was started at less than half light.
adding that these are 3 different strains and will be moved, in these containers, to another set up with hid lighting and 600 ppm jack's.
this should be done before the plants grow into each other and make contact.
editing again to say that no rooting hormones were used. just scarified the bottom 1.5" and stuck 'em in.
editing one more time to say that this is the first one of these ever built and these are the first cuttings to go in it.
parameters were 80-82f, 65-70rh with no domes. 250 ppm jack's and calcinit mixed at 666.
flood is 30 seconds every 3 hours which filled the containers about 2/3 the way up.
lighting is a t-5 fixture that was started at less than half light.
adding that these are 3 different strains and will be moved, in these containers, to another set up with hid lighting and 600 ppm jack's.
this should be done before the plants grow into each other and make contact.
editing again to say that no rooting hormones were used. just scarified the bottom 1.5" and stuck 'em in.
editing one more time to say that this is the first one of these ever built and these are the first cuttings to go in it.
Pardon me if you've answered these previously.
So this batting wick material.. Are you cutting it into strips on one end and spreading it evenly in the upper container?
Does it reach up into the media or just lay flat on the bottom surface of the upper container?
When going to the next phase what do you do with this existing wick? Cut it off? Pull it out?
Do you think all of this is necessary or beneficial? My current grow I just used some 5.5" KORD pots filled with floor dry. I fed them with 1/4" line for 15min every 4 hours as I would with hydroton, but I didn't have any wicks or PPK components. Just top fed recirculating through NAPA.
So this batting wick material.. Are you cutting it into strips on one end and spreading it evenly in the upper container?
Does it reach up into the media or just lay flat on the bottom surface of the upper container?
When going to the next phase what do you do with this existing wick? Cut it off? Pull it out?
Do you think all of this is necessary or beneficial? My current grow I just used some 5.5" KORD pots filled with floor dry. I fed them with 1/4" line for 15min every 4 hours as I would with hydroton, but I didn't have any wicks or PPK components. Just top fed recirculating through NAPA.
MrAwder
Member
I've only had my clone/veg ppk system setup for about a week, but for me it makes sense for the same reasons as a regular PPK... continued feeding in case of pump failure, movement of salts & air through the medium by allowing water to travel in both directions. I also like the idea that I can decide to stop top feeding my moms if I want to slow them down in growth. Same for veg if I am running behind schedule.
My wick is a 3" wide strip and I spread it out along the bottom of the container and put the napa/turface on top. It covers about 1/4 of the bottom surface of the container.
My wick is a 3" wide strip and I spread it out along the bottom of the container and put the napa/turface on top. It covers about 1/4 of the bottom surface of the container.
i just roll up a 3"x7" piece of fabric into a tube and pull it about 2" into the container. then hold it flat against the bottom while loading the turface.
when these are moved to the next step they will keep the wicks until they are transplanted into the final containers.
as far as "necessary" i don't know. but what i'm trying to accomplish is plants that have never been stalled or slowed in any way. that have developed a strong root system and are hardened off before transplant.
and a "production line" type set up that is extremely reliable.
your technique obviously isn't hurting your plants, though!
another thing is the fact that during this rooting period these plants required no human interaction. we all could have left for a few weeks and gotten the same results.
Anybody have a solid jacks/calnit recipe for coco? i have a few small plants on the side to feed and id rather not buy more H&G to keep them going if Jacks will work.
Instead of the 1/.67 ratio, Mr. D suggested I try 2g per Gallon of each. I've been doing this in a barrel of RO and so far everything looks great. See my Lemon thread if you'd like.
I've been doing 110g in a 55 for a 1.4 EC.
I sometimes reduce to 100g in the same 55 barrel for a 1.2 EC.
My buddy is running the 3-2-1 which is slightly out of order of how you should mix it.
We actually run 3g Jacks + 1g Epsom + 1.8g Cal Nit (all per Gallon). My buddy is then diluting this to 1.2 EC. So far so good there as well. I'm not sure the epsom is necessary and will likely switch to 2g of each of my garden performs nicely.
I've been doing 110g in a 55 for a 1.4 EC.
I sometimes reduce to 100g in the same 55 barrel for a 1.2 EC.
My buddy is running the 3-2-1 which is slightly out of order of how you should mix it.
We actually run 3g Jacks + 1g Epsom + 1.8g Cal Nit (all per Gallon). My buddy is then diluting this to 1.2 EC. So far so good there as well. I'm not sure the epsom is necessary and will likely switch to 2g of each of my garden performs nicely.
FF,
THANK YOU! exactly what im looking for as im trying to have a quicker turn over while my PPK's are growing, sick thread, subscribed!!!!
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
napa 8822 is the floor dry that most napa auto part stores carry. that is the second preferred option.
Snook
Still Learning
and they/some napa stores carry something other than 8822..
it says, easily read, NAPA 8822 right on the bag. I bought a bag of the other stuff once, way more dusty fines..
Forgive me if I missed it, but is anyone using the CarQuest 8033 with success? I've used the Napa Floor Dry and cleaning it is the pain in the ass. I've tried running it without cleaning it and it's not a good idea at all (mud collects at the bottom of each bucket and potentially in the tail piece). Curious how the 8033 works....
So that image could eliminate about 30 pages of thread...
Hey d9 have you ever grown autos? My current situation is such that I don't have much room for veg space but have one 10 x 10 room in general and would like to maximize it. Plant count is 30 in a collective garden w/ my buddy here in WA. I've been able to get about 12 oz plants tops (typically 6 - 8) by growing autos and the results come in about 80 days. Only running 2400 watts at the moment as I don't have power in the room for more but that may change soon once I get in touch with a leccy. Just wondering if you had any thoughts on maximizing yield per unit time w/ PPK given the space, as autos have been the best solution for me so far (strain: thc bomb).
twist1uc
Member
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...endingMachine=
Also, check out this page regarding Napa Floor Dry (#8822) vs CarQuest Premium Automotive Oil Absorbant (#8033):
http://www.grow.lot-o-nothin.com/con...absorbant-8033
Also, check out this page regarding Napa Floor Dry (#8822) vs CarQuest Premium Automotive Oil Absorbant (#8033):
http://www.grow.lot-o-nothin.com/con...absorbant-8033
