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a ppk for a 6 plant limit

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Thanks for the quick reply, you know your shit MM.

Another question, for the feed lines, would a 2 way hose splitter on the output of a water pump connected to two 4 way hose splitters, with 8 equal lengths of hose attached, be the way best to flood 8 sites at roughly the same amount of water (with minor adjustments to the valves). Or would it be better to use PVC to connect the hoses to?

I build a manifold like pico's in the linkorama. It creates equal pressure, and if u use equal length lines to bring up to the pots to feed, then u should have really equal waterings. Now Ive seen d9 use a bigger piece of pvc as a manifold, then run his hoses to feed off of it. That would seem to give more pressure to each line vs just using the same size hose as a manifold and the feed lines.

So the manifold on a level plane with equal length hoses to feed with is the most stable watering system I know. the way ur thinking of will work but I bet u will have some good variance of water pressure and will have to use valves on each feed site to equalize the waterings.

I just used a hose off the pump going to a circle manifold of the same hose. then installed t's where I wanted to bring a line up to feed a plant site. the circle manifold worked well for me since I grew in a donut shape. If ur growing in a linear shape, a bigger piece of pvc with the hose coming out of it should make a nice manifold. Maybe a good spot to use some of that 2 1/2" pvc u already have.
 

av8or

Member
MM - After reading your last post, I'm re-thinking my distribution. I've been using a brass garden hose manifold with ball valves and it can be pretty finicky trying to sync all the sites. You have any pics of your water line setup?
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
MM - After reading your last post, I'm re-thinking my distribution. I've been using a brass garden hose manifold with ball valves and it can be pretty finicky trying to sync all the sites. You have any pics of your water line setup?

I did have pics up, but had a security scare and took everything down to be safe.

The manifold is easy to build. If u go with a circle manifold out of hose, then it will take some barbed fittings and hose clamps. Or u could go with d9's pvc length of tubing, with the hoses coming out of it For straight runs.

Any way u want to do it the big thing to remember is equalized pressure before the water comes up each equal length of arm.

If u have any questions just pm me or I will answer in ur thread. I don't want to clog up d9's thread with my manifold ideas.
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
When you use those step bits it is best to mark the size you want the hole to be with black marker. That way when it is spinning you know only to go to the black mark and you don't make the hole to big.

Also when you finish you can take the bit out of the drill and put it in from the back side by hand in the hole and spin it to clean any burrs off.

Makes a nice clean hole that is the correct size.

Or you can tape on the bit side which i think would be a safer bet once bit starts chomping on the pail that marker line is going to disappear something i learned building chassis rather use tape on bit
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
Maybe I will try that if I ever use it for a different size. Then again the acetone is about the same price a the bit was.

Wanna talk about spending money on a bit i needed special hole drilled for steering component, 140 bucks and i got this paper weight hell i might try using it for some buckets lol and only used once
 

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MrAwder

Member
D9, sorry if this was answered but I was wondering how large you think you could get clones in the 6 site setup you showed. You said at some point they would be moved to a 2 site setup to grow to their final size, but how big could I get away with vegging in a six site? I'm low on space between veg and moms so trying to minimize my footprint.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
D9, sorry if this was answered but I was wondering how large you think you could get clones in the 6 site setup you showed. You said at some point they would be moved to a 2 site setup to grow to their final size, but how big could I get away with vegging in a six site? I'm low on space between veg and moms so trying to minimize my footprint.

in the 6 site cloner pictured about a foot high max but really as soon as you can see roots anywhere, sides or bottom, it means they are rooting well and should be moved to an area with stronger nutes and light.
 

MrAwder

Member
Thanks D9. Another question for you... I just built my first trial unit last night. Is there anything special I need to do for the batting wicks? I got Thermolam batting and cut 3" x 7" strips. 2" in the container, and with the air gap it ends up with about 2" in the water. However, is doesn't seem to be drawing water up to the top container. I left the module overnight with all the wicks in and they are still dry. Does the capillary action only work if there is media in the container?
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Thanks D9. Another question for you... I just built my first trial unit last night. Is there anything special I need to do for the batting wicks? I got Thermolam batting and cut 3" x 7" strips. 2" in the container, and with the air gap it ends up with about 2" in the water. However, is doesn't seem to be drawing water up to the top container. I left the module overnight with all the wicks in and they are still dry. Does the capillary action only work if there is media in the container?

are these being top watered too? once there is media and it is being top watered it will stay wet with a 2" air gap.

but if it is being bottom watered only you will find an air gap of about 1/2"-3/4" will work to keep the medium wet. you will probably also need a dome over the cuts.

the 18 plant system that you see above has had cuts in it for 8-9 days now and they are all still up and looking good. no domes but 70% approx rh @ 80-82f.
 

MrAwder

Member
top watering is not plumbed yet. just built 4 modules and linked them last night and am leak testing. 2x6 sites and 2x3 sites all on 14gal rubbermaids. i put the containers & wicks on the system when i got it filled just too see how the wicking would work. not sure where I got the 4" starting figure but that's definitely the problem. I'll try at 1" next. Do you think it would be possible to have some top-fed and some not with the same air gap? I was thinking about slowing down mother growth by bottom feeding them only, but not if I need to setup a separate control bucket.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
top watering is not plumbed yet. just built 4 modules and linked them last night and am leak testing. 2x6 sites and 2x3 sites all on 14gal rubbermaids. i put the containers & wicks on the system when i got it filled just too see how the wicking would work. not sure where I got the 4" starting figure but that's definitely the problem. I'll try at 1" next. Do you think it would be possible to have some top-fed and some not with the same air gap? I was thinking about slowing down mother growth by bottom feeding them only, but not if I need to setup a separate control bucket.

yes, once the plants have roots the medium can be much drier than for new cuttings.

also, if you keep the moms in restrictive pots and feed them the same 250-300 ppm clone solution under weak lights they will grow slowly until you need to move them to a more intense environment.
 

ayekay

New member
D9 or other experts, In a 8 site setup with 3.5 bottom buckets and the tsc 7 gallons with turface as medium, would one 27 gallon control res be enough to flood each site and not starve the pump? (1800gph) the returns and feeds will all be plumbed with Goodyear garden hose. What is the calculations needed to figure out what size control result is needed? I tried to read your post about it in the big plant ppk thread but I get confused..
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
D9,

Whats the best route to starting seedlings in your new cloner system?

i start them in a glass of water just until they all sink or no more than 10-12 hrs. then onto a plate with two layers of wet but not dripping paper towels on the bottom and two more layers on top. put a piece of saran wrap over it to keep it from drying out and put it into the cupboard in the dark.

i check at about 24 hrs and usually most have popped. any that havn't popped at 48 hrs get shitcanned. i let them get about half an inch and plant them, root down, about 1/2" deep.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
D9 or other experts, In a 8 site setup with 3.5 bottom buckets and the tsc 7 gallons with turface as medium, would one 27 gallon control res be enough to flood each site and not starve the pump? (1800gph) the returns and feeds will all be plumbed with Goodyear garden hose. What is the calculations needed to figure out what size control result is needed? I tried to read your post about it in the big plant ppk thread but I get confused..

just from experience i can tell you that you need three totes for 8 plants in those containers. approx 2 gals of water each = 16 gals minimum.

with 3" tailpieces you will have trouble achieving a full flood with the 1800 gph pump unless you use the restrictor plates.

but you can start with a wave type pulse until roots fill the containers.
 

Mrrite008

Member
i start them in a glass of water just until they all sink or no more than 10-12 hrs. then onto a plate with two layers of wet but not dripping paper towels on the bottom and two more layers on top. put a piece of saran wrap over it to keep it from drying out and put it into the cupboard in the dark.

i check at about 24 hrs and usually most have popped. any that havn't popped at 48 hrs get shitcanned. i let them get about half an inch and plant them, root down, about 1/2" deep.


Once planted, do you recommend on treating the freshly sprouted seedling the same as a fresh cutting? Flooding the clone container every 3-4 hours at a 250-300 ppm strength solution?
 

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